By Designer

Guilty Elixir de Parfum Pour Homme by Gucci

by

Guilty Elixir Pour Homme was released by the brand in 2023. I picked up samples of it late last year to test it out and see if it lived up to its early hype. It sort of took the line in a new direction versus what you get with others in the series.

How does Elixir smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Guilty Elixir Pour Homme Smell Like?

Notes include: vanilla, orange blossom, nutmeg, ambrofix, pimento seeds, orris butter, benzoin, patchouli, osmanthus

Click here to try: Guilty Elixir

My Full Review

The opening of this Guilty fragrance is spicy, warm, balsamic, with the iris and vanilla notes already making themselves known. Interestingly, on my skin at least, the benzoin note really comes up from the base at this stage.

I’m actually reminded a bit of Body Kouros by YSL in the undertones of Elixir, at this early stage.

The spices here are nutmeg, and for me, the more prominent pimento. Same sort of spice found in K by D&G and Xeryus Rouge.

After this initial burst, it does become more floral. I was expecting to get more of the orange blossom note before the iris came fully into play.

Actually, the osmanthus comes through more for me. It’s much less of the fruity smelling type, actually it gives a suede/leather scent to Guilty Elixir.

The spice tones down, this Gucci cologne is fully in its floral, powdery, vanilla phase. Less warm, smooth, fresh, with a touch of fuzziness. Here’s where I do pick up some more of the orange blossom, since the nutmeg and pimento have toned down.

Guilty Elixir isn’t fully a ‘baby powder’ type of fragrance. Orris butter, vanilla, and orange blossom do lend a creaminess here and this cologne does have more of a sweetness to it for a good portion of the wear.

The dry down is pretty simple. Orris, vanilla, the ‘Ambrofix’ amber note, some leftover benzoin and patchouli. Mainly, it’s the vanilla and ambrofix.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This isn’t a heavy fragrance, it’s substantial, while having a definite light feeling to it. Guilty Elixir, does however, project quite far and creates a great scent bubble around you.

Not a massive reach, but well above average with just how far it will jump off of the skin. With a normal amount of spraying, I don’t think this Gucci disappoints.

Elixir performs well in terms of its longevity. I get somewhere in the 8-9.5 hour range, each time that I’ve sprayed in on.

It might be capable of more than that for some people, but it’s not elite status. Still better than others in the series, though.

Seasonally, I’d say this one can go autumn to pretty deep into springtime (depending on where you live). It’s not a scent for the hot weather, but Elixir can hold up on a reasonably warm day. Though, I’d mostly wear it when it’s chilly to moderate outside.

It’s very versatile outside of that. Not really a nightclub beast or necessarily one for romantic wear and not completely formal. But, as a daily wear and just about any other situation Guilty Elixir Pour Homme can fit in.

Overall Impressions of Guilty Elixir

Overall, do I like it? Sure, it’s different from the rest of the Guilty Pour Homme series, but it also doesn’t strike me as incredible. Likeable, for me. Other people might love this, especially if you are a fan of scents like Reflection.

I came back to this one after having the sample for a few months and forgetting about it. I’m a bit more positive on it than the first time, but I still don’t think it’s incredible. The opening act is my favorite part and the rest of it isn’t too exciting to my nose.

There’s no inherent weaknesses with Elixir. Performance is good across the board, its pleasant, and one that you can get plenty of use out of.

Since this is a higher price point than others in the Guilty series, I would try to test it out, to see if this one actually appeals to you.

The softer floral, powdery, vanilla scent isn’t going to be for everyone. This one is actually pretty unisex and if you want something more masculine, look elsewhere.

10 Best Smelling Hermes Colognes for Men

by

Hermes is a luxury brand that is steeped in fashion history. While it does have fragrances for men, that doesn’t seem to be the company’s main concern, but when they do put out a scent…they generally do it extremely well.

Many of the scents that are released, tend to be unisex, and can even be focused more on one note versus a mass market fragrance. I have chosen what I feel are the ten best perfumes from Hermès for men, currently. 

Quick Takes of the Top Hermes Colognes

I go into greater depth on all of these fragrances and more below. But, here are some highlights for those in a hurry.

What are the Best Hermès Perfumes for Him?

Great Citrus and Vetiver

Terre d’Hermes Eau Intense Vetiver– To me, this is so much better than the original. I disliked the bitter orange opening in that one, for a long time. Now, it doesn’t bother me as much, this just surpasses it.

Meanwhile, Eau Intense kicks off with a lighter and brighter mix of lemon and grapefruit. 

Obviously, it is similar to Terre d’Hermes, just with a different and fresher blend overall. Yes, it is an Intense version, but it actually isn’t loud or even as heavy as the original. Maybe the intensity is referring to the vetiver note alone, which is indeed stronger and more prevalent. 

The vetiver comes on strong, after the opening and is joined by a moderate Sichuan pepper note. Mature and refined scent, probably better for 30+ years old, in most cases. Eau Intense Vetiver Review

Citron Cool

Terre d’Hermes Eau Givree– Another of the series that I really like. Eau Givree brings in a realistic zesty somewhat bitter citron note with juniper and a woody base. There might still be some of the original orange in there as well. 

This one is super fresh and clean. Not super powerful, but a versatile fragrance that can be a joy to wear. I really liked trying this one out, after being less than wowed with some other flankers of Terre d’Hermes.

There is a mineral note here, but the one time that I tried Eau Givree out, it didn’t seem to strong. Weaker than the one that was in AdG Profumo. I don’t know, maybe I need more time with it to notice.

The whole thing comes across as being quite cold, somewhat spiced, with a touch of bitter. I get lots of juniper coming through after the initial wave of citron.

Most Popular Hermès

Hermès Men’s Terre d’Hermès Eau de Toilette Spray, 3.3 fl. oz.– So, I’m putting this on the list based solely on the number of people who swear by this fragrance.

I am personally, in the minority opinion with Terre d’Hermes, as I don’t particularly care for it. Though, I’m more neutral on it nowadays.

Citrus, woody, and earthy. I like the concept, I just don’t like that orange note, especially with the underlying dirtiness of the patchouli and woodsy ingredients. 

I do like the vetiver here, which is why Eau Intense Vetiver really struck a chord with me.

Again, though, a lot of folks think this is one of the best scents of the last 25 years…I’m just not one of them. Read my full review.

Top Newer Release

H24 by Hermes– H24 seems to get mixed reviews, but in sales terms it’s actually become quite popular since its release in 2021. Personally, I liked wearing it and thought that it brought something different to the table, when compared to the usual lineup of men’s colognes.

H24 opens up with a lot of sage. The overall composition of this cologne is simple, but it still manages to be fresh and intriguing. 

The sage is joined by a metallic note, which provides some of that uniqueness. It’s less of the usual mineral oil-like smell and actually a genuine metallic aroma. It’s warm, with some sweetish narcissus flower, and a rosewood base rounding things out.

They have released an EDP version of this. Slightly different weightings of the notes, but they added moss as an ingredient. Between the two, I still prefer the original EDT.

Performance is nice. H24 is versatile and pretty easy to like. I’m not sure why some people didn’t seem to like this. It’s not the most amazing, but it’s all around worthwhile. H24 Review

Fresh and Soapy

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li– Not the best performer, but still decent. However, Le Jardin de Monsieur Li is a fantastic smelling fragrance for men or women. 

This series of fragrances is mostly unisex, but many of them are basically women’s perfumes. This is a true unisex scent.

This Hermes perfume kicks off with a bright citrusy kumquat blend, that is refreshing and watery. The mint note comes in lightly to give it that bit of crispness, with underlying grassy notes, that does bring about memories of being in a small garden next to a pond.

The jasmine becomes the main note, during the dry down. It gives this one a soapy quality, as it blends with the other ingredients.

However, it maintains enough of a grassy, watery, and herbal edge to prevent it from being a ‘girly’ sort of fragrance. My Full Review

Warm, Sweet/Spicy, Boozy

Ambre Narguile– Another unisex option, but one that flies under the radar, and is actually quite phenomenal. This one is dark, sweet, spicy, and boozy. Really quite perfect for the colder days of the year.

Amber and honey are two of the main notes, clearly, giving Ambre Narguile the thick warmth and richness. Then, it brings in dry fruits, tobacco, rum, spices, and a bit of smokiness.

Very close to Oajan by Parfums de Marly. Though, this is a sweeter scent than that one, but still has its spicy kicks.

This is a release from the Hermessence collection and has great performance and is an exquisite gourmand for anyone to enjoy.

Green, Fresh, Summer Scent

Un Jardin en Mediterranee– The other best entry from the Un Jardin lineup. This one is herbal, fresh, green, with a nice zesty top. 

Mediterranee kicks off with the usual citrus top notes, with some blend of floral ingredients. Then, the real magic begins with the introduction of fig, juniper, and cypress.

The juniper gives it that gin drink-like fizziness, with a wonderful fig coming through, and the green woodiness of the cypress tree. 

This one is actually unisex and can be worn by most men. Sur le Nil, is another potential option, but has more of a feminine aroma.

The longevity is ok, but the smell is fantastic. I really do like the addition of a fig note, in this composition, it takes over during the middle and dry down and sits perfectly. 

Classic Masculine Scent

Equipage By Hermes For Men. Eau De Toilette Spray 3.3 Oz.– A throwback scent from the 1970s. Equipage is a very interesting and charming fragrance that isn’t really like anything else released nowadays.

It is masculine, but not overpowering, and features smooth woody notes such as: rosewood, oak moss, and pine needles.

Has that great woody, smoky, and autumn outdoorsy scent. Equipage is refined and well put together, with a nice spice from nutmeg, and a pretty distinct carnation note up top.

Woody, Herbal, Outdoorsy

Hermes Rocabar Eau de Toilette Spray for Men, 3.3 Ounce– Rocabar has a benzoin note that I really enjoy and reminds me of Body Kouros by YSL, though, the Hermes fragrance takes it in a entirely different direction.  

Rocabar is a very fresh blend of mostly wood and spices but it does have floral and sweet elements provide by vanilla and carnation.

Not as heavily masculine as Equipage or as resinous as Bel Ami. This is a good middle ground, though, still very outdoorsy.

Pine and cypress are very noticeable in the base of the scent, but the entire thing remains clean and classy.

Leathery, Spiced Woods 

Bel Ami FOR MEN by Hermes – 3.4 oz EDT Spray– Masculine and a definite 80s scent. If you love leather and woody fragrances, Bel Ami is probably among the best to ever do it.  Incredibly smooth and sexy and grabs attention in a good way.

It opens up with citrus and spices. The leather comes through, but it really only adds a sense of richness, at this point. Later, it will come out more and bring the entire fragrance together, as a whole. 

The citrus notes fade after the initial blast and their role seems overtaken by floral ingredients. Those add just a light touch to the resinous woods and herbal spices sitting underneath the leather.

Good power and a pretty unique sort of smell, nowadays. I cannot comment on how the original bottles smelled from a long time ago, but the newer bottles are very good.

Dior Homme Intense (2011) by Christian Dior

by

Seeing as I just reviewed Dior Homme, I of course had to do one for its flanker fragrance, Dior Homme Intense. Don’t worry, I’ll do a comparison post of these two in the near future. Until then, I want to focus singularly on Intense as a stand alone scent.

How does it smell? How does it perform? When should it be worn? Is it worth a buy? Update: I am revising and updating this post, as I’ve gotten more experience with it, and the original Dior Homme.

What does Dior Homme Intense Smell Like?

Notes include: pear, iris, vetiver, ambrette, lavender, cedar

Click here to try: Christian Dior Dior Men Intense Eau de Parfum Spray, 3.4 Ounce

My Full Review

The opening of Dior Homme Intense hits with a blast of lavender, cedar, and vetiver. It’s a smooth woody affair that pairs with the ambrette to create a warm woods feeling. The iris emerges for me, after about a minute of wear and gives off that familiar powdery floral aroma.

The lavender is in many ways the leader, but what I guess is the ambrette, gives this fragrance its warmth and adds to the cacao sort of aroma. Cedar and vetiver solidify the base. The latter two notes, will have a greater impact later on, but I can detect them from the start.

Honestly, I think that my favorite part is the opening 10-15 minutes with this fragrance. It’s just so layered and wonderful. To me, the opening beats out Dior Homme. That’s saying something, considering Dior Homme has become a staple in my rotation.

I’ve noted in subsequent comparisons between the two, that I enjoy Dior Homme more, overall. That being said, I will combine this two, and it’s essentially a 1A vs 1B scenario.

One of the main differences with Intense, is the lack of the leather note, when compared to the original. This is woodier, with a sweeter warmth.

The iris is still dominant, later on, but tempered when compared with Dior Homme. The lavender here, plays a pretty big role in how the iris gets to develop.

As it settles down, it draws more toward the powdery end of things, and there is definitely the cacao note that is found in the original Dior Homme lurking in this mixture.

It actually dries down into a rich, chocolate (somewhat vanilla) powder, gourmand and that’s how Intense separates itself from Dior Homme.

I get a fresh and semi-sweet fragrance, once it’s fully developed. This is all sitting on a dry base of cedar and vetiver. Powdery, clean, classy, and surprisingly seductive.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The projection on Dior Homme Intense is quite good. It’s not nearly as loud as something like 1 Million but it definitely earns the intense moniker.

The longevity is excellent. Dior Homme Intense is an all day wear and then some. That’s one thing, that I really appreciate about this cologne.

On my skin, I can hit that 9-11 hour range of solid wear. Yes, towards the end of that set, it is much more of a skin scent. However, the performance is very good overall.

For wear, it’s a late fall and winter wear in my book. It has a really warm, sweet gourmand fragrance and just sits perfectly in the colder air.

I stay away from the two Dior Homme’s in summertime. Maybe, if I’m going to be indoors, during the evening. But, it has to be air conditioned, and low humidity.

In terms of versatility, it is another classy and dressed up kind of scent. Hell, I’ll wear it with t-shirt and jeans, but it exudes sophistication and is best represented when dressed to the nines.

I like Dior Homme Intense best for evening wear and romantic wear. It does a great job at filling that role.

It is a masculine fragrance, but not in a rough, or overbearing sort of way. This is a man who is well put together, not weak, but not boorish either.

I have gotten plenty of complements, wearing Dior Homme Intense. Several drivers, when I’ve headed out to the bars, have commented on how much they like it. Also, women, once I arrive in whatever nightlife venue respond really positively toward this scent.

Now, I do wear Dior Homme, over this usually. But, I do often combine the two, for greater effect. Maybe two sprays of Dior Homme for one spray of Intense. It brings out enough strength, blends well, while giving you some highlights of each of the colognes.

Overall Impression of Dior Homme Intense

Overall, would I recommend Dior Homme Intense? Yes, indeed I would. I enjoy wearing it and like it’s different take on the original Dior Homme.

You can totally have both of them, as they are different enough, to create their own experiences and have a slightly different personality, so to speak.

I absolutely love the opening act of this fragrance. It’s about as perfect, as I can imagine a scent to be, or that I have come across in all the hundreds of tests that I’ve done. It’s fantastic.

The performance overall is outstanding and there’s no overwhelming negative, that I can tell from, all of my time spent with this cologne. Dior Intense has achieved classic status, in my book.

Update: Intense is now the remaining Dior Homme with this formulation (outside of the scarce Dior Homme Parfum). The brand revamped the Dior Homme lineup, producing: Dior Homme 2020 review and the Sport variant. As such, DHI would be my number one pick from this line.

Creed Aventus vs Virgin Island Water Comparison

by

In this edition of the cologne comparisons, I’m going to take a closer look at two Creed scents, that I’ve already reviewed on the site: Aventus and Virgin Island Water. How does VIW stand up against the ever popular, Creed Aventus? Which of these scents smells better? Gives better performance? Please continue below for my full take.

Tale of the Tape: Aventus vs. VIW

Virgin Island Water

Notes include: bergamot, lime, rum, sugar cane, coconut, ylang-ylang, and ginger

Click here to try: Creed Virgin Island Water by Creed for Unisex – 4 oz Millesime Spray

Read my Original VIW Review

Creed Aventus

Notes of Creed Aventus: 

Top: Blackcurrant,Italian bergamot, French apples and pineapple

Middle: Rose, dry birch, Moroccan jasmine, and patchouli

Base Notes: musk, oak moss, ambergris, and vanilla.

Click here to try Aventus: Aventus For Men 4.0 oz EDP Spray By Creed

Click here to read my original Aventus Review

Opening

Virgin Island Water strikes an early victory in how these two scents open. The initial blast of VIW is a blend of lime, bergamot, and the coconut note. I honestly think that this is a fantastic tropical aroma that really draws you in.

It is juicier and boozier than how it actually end ups. The rum and lime is a great combination that I love and brings on the summer feeling.

Aventus on the other hand, opens with a really harsh aroma, that I’ve always compared to Lemon Pine Sol (yes, the floor cleaner)…thankfully, it gets much better after that. In fact, after the initial bit, the bergamot note shared by the two scents is near identical and really great.

However, just comparing the opening act of each fragrance, I’ve got to go with VIW.

Edge: VIW

Projection

Virgin Island Water isn’t a strong scent, it’s pretty moderate all around. Don’t expect a monster.

It’s really not designed to have an overwhelming sillage, which would kind of be unbearable during the warmest days.

Aventus is strong and rather bold but isn’t insanely overpowering. It is, however, much stronger than Virgin Island Water and gets the edge here. It can be over-sprayed, but not an elite powerhouse, in my opinion.

Edge: Aventus

Longevity

VIW is completely borderline on having poor longevity and just okay. It depends on the day, but I’ve always gotten 4-6 of wear out of it.

Not great and one would expect more at the price point. I don’t mind the sillage being moderate, but I do have a problem with the mediocre performance.

Aventus, will get 7 hours as a minimum and usually in the 8-9 hour range. Solid performer. Occasionally, I can hit double digits with Aventus. That’s usually when in an air conditioned environment all day.

Some people can get Aventus to last longer on their skin than I do. Either way, Aventus outdoes Virgin Island Water pretty easily.

Edge: Aventus

Versatility

Aventus is more of a year round kind of scent, though, it isn’t great in the high heat, in my experience. It can be worn casually, on a date, at work, or for a night on the town.

Aventus is a very well-balanced cologne in this regard. It’s a signature fragrance for a lot of guys out there and will give you near endless opportunities to use it.

VIW has it’s versatility in the fact that it is a unisex scent. Aventus is much more of a masculine fragrance in comparison.

However, it’s almost strictly casual and actually shines in the summer heat. Sure, you could include spring, but unless you live in the tropics…it’s stuck in one season for wear.

Edge: Aventus

Overall Scent

I really like the opening of VIW, it’s nice, and reminds me of being at the beach. As it moves along, it becomes much more coconut dominant and takes on the suntan lotion aroma, which is still good but not as much as the opening.

It’s performance is also not amazing and it has a limited use. It’s more of a niche fragrance or one you’d use only at specific times of the year.

Aventus, I’ve never liked the opening BUT it does get much better. It gives good performance and the citrus-laden blend really starts to take off after that.

There’s a reason why it’s so highly regarded. I still enjoy Aventus, even if, I’m rather fatigued of smelling it. There’s just been such an influx of Aventus alternatives, that it becomes exhausting.

Between the two, the choice is Aventus, unless you’re looking for that specific summertime scent.

Winner: Aventus

Polo Black vs Polo Blue Cologne Comparison

by

In this post, I’d like to do another cologne comparison between two scents from the Ralph Lauren line, Polo Black and Polo Blue. These are two of the more popular scents from Polo and seem to be common foes in terms of choice, even though they are quite different fragrances.

Anyways, I’m going to break down how each one smells, performs, when they should be worn, and which of these is a better buy in my opinion.

Polo Black vs. Blue

Polo Black Tale of the Tape

Notes include:  mango, sandalwood, tonka bean, tangerine, sage, lemon, patchouli

Click here to try: Polo Black by Ralph Lauren for Men – 4.2 Ounce EDT Spray

My review: Polo Black Review

Polo Blue Tale of the Tape

Notes include: amber, melon, patchouli, geranium, cucumber, tangerine, moss, musk

Click here to try: Polo Blue by Ralph Lauren for Men, Eau De Toilette Natural Spray, 4.2 Ounce

Read my original review: Polo Blue Review

Opening

Polo Black is noticeably fruity from the start. Now, this isn’t a very sweet type of fruity smell (think dried fruit pieces), the mango note is prominent from the get go but it does have a spicier profile at the start. It also feels much ‘brighter’ as a fragrance than does Polo Blue.

Black kicks things off with that mango note in the lead. A juicy tangerine note is also present, helping along the tropical sweetness. Although, that’s not the entire story as sage and woodsy notes also come in to give it more depth.

Blue is a fresh and crisp use of cucumber and suede notes with a distinct aquatic profile. Blue is a much colder scent than is Black.

The cucumber is also joined by melon and citrus. The cold crispness of the cucumber and mainly melon notes, give Blue its ‘aquatic’ character. I like it, the freshness of the melon and cucumber is nice and the tangerine is bit of a change from the usual citrus notes.

Polo Black doesn’t really conform to its name with it use of citrus notes and has a much more interesting aroma, in my opinion. Between the two, I’ll go with the way that Black opens versus what I get from Blue.

Edge: Polo Black

Projection

Both are fairly moderate scents and I really don’t notice a difference between the two in this regard. On my skin, at least, they are equals.

Edge: Push

Longevity

Black is decent and actually slightly better than its flanker fragrance, Double Black. Black can get you 6+ hours of wear but not all that much beyond that.

Blue, on the other hand, is good for 7-8 hours and has the edge in this category.

Neither of these is an amazing performer, as with most of the Polo lineup. However, even as an edt, Blue has always been pretty good for what it is. I haven’t noticed a downward trend in its performance, but I haven’t tested out the latest batch.

In any case, Blue beats Polo Black here.

Edge: Blue

Versatility

Both of these colognes are great for casual wear in both school and the office. Neither is really a date night or club type of fragrance, though, they wouldn’t be totally out of place either.

However, Polo Blue is mostly just a warm weather scent while Black can function well in pretty much any climate (probably except extreme heat and humidity) and can fit in even during summertime.

It’s not too much of a distance between these two colognes. After all, each is designed to be a mass appealing and versatile wear.

Edge: Black

Overall Scent

I like Polo Black better. Blue EDT has always felt really generic to me. Though, I do like the way it smells. If you want more of an aquatic scent, go with Blue (actually, I’d personally go with Blue EDP or Deep Blue).

Blue is enjoyable and I don’t have really anything too negative to say about the fragrance.

Black is a very nice scent and even if the longevity isn’t quite as good as Blue, I still think that it is a superior fragrance in terms of smell.

It has the right balance of unique fruitiness, spice, and a woodsy heart. Honestly, it’s one of the best releases the Polo has ever done.

It isn’t an overwhelming and definitive win for Black, but I do think that it has more advantages versus the better selling Blue EDT.

Winner: Polo Black