Kouros Fraicheur by YSL

After receiving my bottle of YSL Haute Concentration, I decided to buy another vintage Saint Laurent fragrance. This time I grabbed a bottle of 1993’s Kouros Fraicheur, a flanker to the original released in 1981. I was intrigued to get the original Kouros experience, blended into a lighter and more wearable version. Is it actually any good, though?


What does Kouros Fraicheur Smell Like?

Notes include: clove, pineapple, bergamot, ginger, orange blossom, patchouli, vetiver, amber, honey, oakmoss, incense, coriander, vanilla, tonka bean


My Full Review

The opening is full of that familiar spiciness and animalic quality found in the classic Kouros. Civet is toned down, but it is definitely there, adding an intense musk to the top of this scent.

Yet, I think they used aldehydes to a greater extent here, like I get with the last batch of Kouros I reviewed. A warm spice blended with that cold fresh airy blast.

But, the main difference with Fraicheur is the inclusion of lighter notes up top like pineapple and bergamot. This brightens up the composition with less of a massive pungent heaviness, that the 80s bottles of Kouros had.

When compared to the modern Kouros, I think this one is actually the more potent of the two, even though this was the ‘lighter’ version of the original 30 years ago.

Like Kouros, I get a good deal of coriander in the spice profile. Maybe some ginger. Most of it is going to be a mix of those spices, musk, patchouli, and what smells like neroli (not just the orange blossom alone).

Once we’re past that initial heavy mix of many different notes, things start to shift to an earthier blend. Some smokiness from incense, lots of vetiver, patchouli, and a bit of amber. This earthy smokiness is pretty well-blended with the floral notes (perhaps honey, too?) and the remaining pineapple/citrus.

I think this phase of the wear is great. The civet/aldehydes have take a back seat to these earthier notes and you start to get an unobstructed smell of the floral notes, also. It’s a mix of the cleaner and dirtier notes, but gradually becoming calmer.

At times, I really pick up on a powdery or creamier scent in this. It’s not distinct enough to be just one note, but the way everything starts combining.

While Kouros ends as a musky/floral/herbal fragrance, Fraicheur dries down woody/floral/sweet. There are hints of vanilla coming through and enough of the top pineapple influence to be noticeable if you press your nose.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this one will leave a trail and fill a room, especially in that first hour of wear. It reaches much further than the Kouros sample I reviewed a few months ago. Fraicheur doesn’t require a ton of sprays to be effective.

That being said, past the first hour, and this cologne calms down a lot. Still very noticeable, but it doesn’t radiate quite like it does when it’s in full civet, aldehydes, pineapple, and spices mode.

The longevity is also great. It seems to stick around for about 9 hours on my skin. Remember, this is a ‘freshie’ EDT, and it’s putting out this kind of power. Most vintage colognes were just built different.

Seasonally, this is actually really nice in (near) springtime and could work in summer too. Fraicheur wouldn’t feel too out of place anytime of year. But, I think it’s best in mild temperatures and above.

Fraicheur still comes across as a vintage scent. Very different from just about anything that’s come out in the past decade-plus. It will probably appeal much more to older guys or those who appreciate the classic stuff.

I think that this is an approachable way to wear the vintage Kouros. It’s not overwhelming and the animalic facets aren’t the main event here. Still, it’s a classic chypre style, that you may have to grow to love.


Overall Impressions of Kouros Fraicheur

Overall, do I like Fraicheur? Yes, I actually prefer it to Kouros itself, especially in its modern incarnation. This 1993 version has a better strength and heavier reach than the newer bottles of Kouros, while having a lighter and more appealing scent.

You can absolutely still tell that this is very much a Kouros derivative. As such, if you don’t like Kouros, I doubt that you’ll enjoy Fraicheur. I like it somewhat more, but it’s still never going to rate as a personal favorite.

That initial spray is jam packed with things going on. I think it’s nice enough at that stage. I like the pineapple and citrus editions, but I think that Kouros Fraicheur really comes into its own once you get to the earthier and floral parts of the cologne.

All in all, I think this is a great release by Yves Saint Laurent. Obviously, it’s discontinued nowadays, and can be pricey to track down. I paid about $95 for a 1.11 ounce (30 mL) bottle, which isn’t too bad. But, this is mostly going to appeal to collectors.

4 Fragrances Similar to Wanted by Night

Wanted by Night is one of the most popular fragrances that has emerged from the Wanted line by Azzaro. I wasn’t a big fan of the original Wanted, but this came along and was something that I did enjoy wearing. Now, there aren’t any fragrances that I’ve found with the same exact smell, but I figured I’d create an ongoing list of colognes with the same sort of style. Similar scents that you can enjoy in lieu of a bottle of Wanted by Night.


What Fragrances Smell Similar to Wanted by Night?

Ultra Male by Gaultier– Since I first tried out Wanted by Night, I noticed the similarities between it and my bottle of Ultra Male. Not a one to one exact match, but they do have a ton of overlapping notes.

Lavender, lemon, vanilla, cedar, patchouli, and cinnamon. Those are the commonalities between these fragrances, noticeably the spiciness of each of them. However, Ultra Male has a strong use of pear and mint, which is distinct and separate from Wanted by Night.

Night is darker and has a tobacco note. Ultra Male goes in a sweeter/spicier direction. The weighting of notes is also different, but the style is similar enough to warrant a spot on the list.


Night Vision EDP– Night Vision EDP is another mass appealing option, with a pretty similar style. The lemon essence up top with spices, takes a page out of the Wanted playbook. But, this one is a colder and fresher use of spiciness.

Red and black pepper up top, with sage, greenish fir, and some resinous undertones (the same benzoin note as Night). A bit of sweetness here and the wood notes are amplified versus what you get with Azzaro.

Again, none of these are going to be the same as Wanted by Night. Night Vision EDP does provide a great spice blend that is clean and inhabits the same area of the map as does our target. Night Vision EDP review


The Most Wanted Parfum– Yes, one should definitely look into the next iterations of the Wanted series, if you enjoy Night. Both The Most Wanted and Most Wanted Parfum are better, in my opinion.

The Most Wanted Parfum might be the better of the two to go with, if you want a similar spicy burst to Night. Here, you get a fantastic and fiery red ginger note instead of the cinnamon. Really, it’s great. The ginger is hot and fresh and smells roasted.

The dry down uses the sweeter toffee note, growing vanilla strength, and some light woods in the background. It does become its own thing, but that start always reminds me of Wanted by Night.

most wanted parfum review

 

 


The Scent Intense– Hugo Boss’ The Scent line has a whole host of options built around the same sort of theme. The Scent Intense is the best option of the group is you want something closer in style to Wanted by Night.

Cardamom and ginger up top give this one a spicy and less fruity entry into the series versus the original. The maninka fruit note is still there, but the sweetness and fruitiness isn’t on the same level.

The next phase is less at all like Wanted by Night and really does its own thing. You get lavender, leather, and vanilla through the middle. The leather, vanilla, and maninka at the end.

I do with the spicier ginger and cardamom opening lasted deeper into the wear. But, if you’re a fan of Wanted by Night, there’s a good chance you’ll like this one as well. The Scent Intense review

Spicebomb Extreme EDP by Viktor & Rolf

Today, I am going to be taking a closer look at and giving my thoughts on Spicebomb Extreme EDP, after wearing it around. This Viktor & Rolf creation is a flanker to the original Spicebomb, which has long been a popular choice. What does Spicebomb Extreme smell like? How does it perform? Is it worth a try?


Spicebomb Extreme Overview

Notes include: tobacco, cumin, cinnamon, saffron, vanilla, bourbon

Click here to try: Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb Extreme Eau De Parfum Spray 50ml/1.7oz


My Full Review of Spicebomb Extreme

It’s been a very long time since I’ve smelled the original Spicebomb, so, I’m not going to make any direct comparisons beyond, I think that Extreme isn’t as spicy. But I’m reporting that from memory, so it might not actually be the case.

Update: I grabbed some newer samples of Spicebomb EDT since originally posting this review. That has a lot of cinnamon, pink pepper, and citrus up top in comparison to this one. Full the full breakdown, here’s my comparison post: Spicebomb vs. Extreme

Anyway, Extreme opens up with lots of tobacco, sweet vanilla, some lavender, and then a bit of spice. Again, it isn’t overly spicy, rather, it is smooth, warm, and sweet. I actually really dig how fresh and comforting it is on my skin and kept putting my nose to my wrist to get another whiff.

Mainly, this fragrance is about the tobacco note, more so than any spices, which seem to just be playing a support role here.

Cinnamon and cumin are the spices in this version, which is why it reminds me of other spiced colognes, while wearing it.

According to Viktor & Rolf’s list of notes, there is also bourbon within the composition (maybe they meant Bourbon vanilla? Totally different.), but Extreme doesn’t put off much (if any) of a boozy vibe to me, especially not a bourbon aroma.

One thing that I do notice, which adds to the freshness, is saffron which I’ve been seeing listed in a lot of colognes recently. This has been especially true of higher end scents. It’s great and not too intrusive in this.

As it dries down, I get a lot of vanilla and tobacco. The vanilla almost comes up to equal strength with the tobacco note and the entire scent feels very warm, if not hot.

Then, there is still the spices flanking the main aroma. It’s actually a fairly straightforward and linear sort of cologne. You get: tobacco and saffron, vanilla, with lingering spice throughout.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, I’d say that the sillage is quite large but not heavy. Meaning, for first the 4-5 hours of the wear or so, it can cover a lot of space around you…but it’s not super heavy. Extreme hangs lightly in the air. The rest of the wear, it is much more light to moderate.

It’s definitely got a long reach, but I don’t ever feel like it’s just a dense cloud of fragrance hanging around me.

Longevity is awesome here, 10+ hours of wear. Seriously, this is one that I can spray on, and have it hang around for seemingly as long as I want it to. Obviously, you’re going to shower at some point during the day, but Spicebomb Extreme should stick around until then.

I can safely say it’s double digit hours, with how long it lasts, but 14-15 isn’t surprising on my own skin with Extreme. Perfect.

I don’t know how this performs with other people, but this and Eros Flame, are two of the longest lasting mainstream designer scents I’ve come in contact with. Both are absolute monsters with the longevity.

Seasonally, this is a cold weather wear, all the way. Not something I’d want to put on when it’s warm or humid outside. It can be appropriate for work, if you go light. If you’re going to wear this, you’re probably not going to live in a tropical area.

Mainly, I’d wear it casually or for a night out on the town. It is pretty unique, not necessarily the style of fragrance, but there won’t be many guys wearing Spicebomb Extreme.

It does have a certain sexiness to it, which only adds to its appeal. I think that this Viktor & Rolf creation is really an attractive option. You’ll get enough use out of it in autumn and winter, could potentially be a signature cologne for that stretch of the year.

I put it in the same class as, Man in Black, except that Extreme has much better performance and no booziness. It terms of smell, I think they’re both great and among the best winter options for guys.


Overall Impressions of Spicebomb Extreme

Overall, do I like Spicebomb Extreme? Yes, this stuff is fantastic, provided it fits your style. Again, a cold weather scent, so if you’re not in the right climate it won’t be great.

Tobacco, vanilla, spices, and saffron/lavender. A sweetish somewhat gourmand quality. Not necessarily an appealing prospect for everyone.

If that doesn’t sound nice, avoid this. However, I think most guys would enjoy wearing this cologne, and the performance is top notch.

To me, it’s not really a spice ‘bomb’, it’s a fragrance that has spice. The original fits the moniker much more than this, but Extreme blows it away in terms of performance.

For me, this is the best of the Viktor & Rolf men’s line currently. Second and third, is a toss-up between Spicebomb EDT and Infrared, depending on how I’m feeling. Followed by the green bottled, Night Vision EDP.

This is a very nice tobacco cologne, with sweet hints and calming elements. Nonetheless, it’s a great wear. Really quite perfect for most situations in the late autumn through the winter months.

Eros Eau de Parfum by Versace

Eros has been an absolute smash hit fragrance for Versace, for nearly a decade now. So, it was kind of surprising that it took them so long to follow up with an eau de parfum version. Yes, they had Flame, but that wasn’t quite the same.

I’ve been spending time wearing this EDP edition of Eros, while anticipating the public release of Parfum, and am finally posting my thoughts on this scent. How does it smell? Is it better than Eros EDT?


What does Eros Eau de Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: candied apple, mint, mandarin, lemon oil, ambermax, cedar, clary sage, geranium flower, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, and vanilla

Click here to try: Eros by Versace, 6.7 oz EDP Spray for Men


My Full Review

Before we get into my thoughts on this scent, let’s see how Versace describes it: Masculine and confident, the new Eros Eau de Parfum is a fragrance for a bold, passionate man. The sensual scent fuses woody, oriental and fresh notes, creating a powerful perfume that evokes Eros – the god of love.

The opening of Eros EDP brings me back to what the original EDT batches used to smell like. The latest bottles of the original, have way more lemon in the mix than I remember, when compared to the bottles that I used to have.

However, they aren’t exactly the same. The citrus notes are way toned down here, which is nice. Instead, you get plenty of the mint, geranium, and sage. These notes are all wrapped up in a sweet mix of vanilla and the candied apple note.

I like the opening a lot, but it doesn’t hit the exact same chord as the initial EDT bottles, which were awesome.

Eros EDP feels colder, sweeter, and smoother than the original does. One thing that I do notice, is how much weaker the vetiver is in this edition. Also, the tonka bean is out of there too. I enjoy tonka bean being paired with vanilla, but I actually prefer the vanilla by itself in this scent.

The cedar notes are pumped up and really start to come through after 30-45 minutes of wear.

The next phase, brings out those woods and the geranium and sage begin to fade. At this point, the citrus is really faint. Seriously, I compared this to Eros EDT on my other arm, and that lemon oil sticks out big time with the original.

The mint and vanilla are the stars, with some apple, and the cedar. The biggest change for the rest of the wear, is just how much the Ambermax starts to come through.

I’m not a fan of that synthetic smelling amber from Versace. The final drydown has a hefty dose of it and it becomes distracting to me. Mint and a general freshness of woods comes through on top of it. The vanilla isn’t as strong and the apple is gone.

That’s about the extent of Eros EDP’s development. Woody, minty, and a heaping of Ambermax. Everything else is relegated to a faint background place.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this is a strong fragrance, but not a monster. It’s slightly stronger than the current EDT bottles, but not the same level as the original batches of that. Plus, EDP doesn’t feel like it has the same power, because it doesn’t have that same sharp lemon note coming through.

The longevity here is also quite good, not elite. This will get me 8-9.5 hour of wear, on my skin. Better than EDT, but not nearly to the same level as Flame. That being said, this is a parfum that will hang around and give you your money’s worth.

 

Seasonally, I don’t think there is much difference from the EDT. Eros EDP is also an autumn and winter scent. It wouldn’t fall apart in moderate temperatures, but don’t expect it to be a summertime wear.

One advantage it has, is that it is more wearable for older guys. The original comes across as brash and youthful, built for the nightlife. EDP is more reserved. Still dynamic, but able to appeal to those outside of their early 20s.

Not saying this is a formal type of fragrance, but it doesn’t completely feel out of place in more dressed up scenarios. 

Like the original, eau de parfum still puts out that romantic vibe and has that sweet attractive appeal. 


Overall Impressions of Eros Eau de Parfum

Overall, do I like Eros EDP? I do. Though, I’m not sure that I enjoy it anymore than the original, even in its current form. I certainly like how it starts out, more so than its predecessor’s newer bottles.

The mint, sage, and geranium really give this a cold and aromatic fresh beginning. I always like the candied apple note and the EDP strikes me as being pretty close to how Legend Night smells (without the warm cardamom). Since I have a full bottle of that, I don’t personally need to get this.

Then, the woods come in to provide a base to the mint, vanilla, and candied apple top.

My biggest complaint here, is the ambermax note in the base. During the dry down, it is much more noticeable, and is the reason that EDP doesn’t completely surpass the original. It’s the same note that ruined Flame (I’m pretty sure it’s the culprit, anyway) for me (which I really like the opening of).

On my skin, the synthetic amber really has a harshness to it, that I simply don’t like. Maybe others won’t have this same problem, but it makes the wear after a few hours somewhat annoying. Not terrible, but not anything I need.

The Parfum version also goes with the Ambermax note, but it is much smoother, and leveled out by the other notes in the composition. I slightly prefer the Parfum to the EDP.

That has an aromatic fresh start, with a vanilla amber finish. Lighter on the woods (cashmeran), but they’re still there. It’s got a tad better performance too. 

Is Eros EDP worth a buy? Provided you liked the original from Versace, you should also like this one. It’s different enough and overall quite good. It’s at least as good as the EDT, with better performance currently.

In their current versions, I have all the Eros’ essentially neck in neck. I think Parfum would be the number one choice. Then, either EDP or the original. 

Ameline by Phlur

Ameline is one of the fragrances featured in the Phlur Discovery set that I purchased a few months ago. I had never heard of this one and didn’t know just what to expect from the perfume going in. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?


What does Phlur’s Ameline Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, rose, pink pepper, sandalwood, patchouli

Click here to try: Ameline at Sephora


My Full Review

Ameline opens up with a very fresh and enjoyable bergamot citrus note, which is flanked by a lighter use of pink pepper. Early on, you can already start picking up the rose note from the base, but that bergamot really stands out to me.

That lasts for about 20 minutes, before we start to dive into the main event, which is the rose and patchouli combination. The bergamot still hangs around, though it no longer has the upper hand in the composition.

The patchouli is cleaner, less earthy here. It almost comes across as being a musk note, but you do get the earthy/woody feel with the sandalwood and rose being so prevalent.

The next phase, basically just eliminates the bergamot and the sandalwood comes in more. Ameline is fresh and drier here. The rose smells pinkish with a hint of fruitiness.

Finally, the end will be a rose and sandalwood smell. The entirety takes on more of a powdery undertone, rather than a creamy sandalwood aroma.

Seasonally, this one can work almost year round. I would probably use something else for extremely cold or hot days, but I like this one in autumn and especially spring.

Within those spacious climate confines, you should have plenty of opportunity to wear it. Not a nightlife fragrance or a super formal one, but it’s pretty enough. As a daily wear, casual, or just out and about town during the day this perfume is up to the job.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The reach of this one is pretty mid-range. It’s got a nice start where the projection from the skin will be noticed fairly far away. That will change within the first hour and it will be slightly above average for the rest of the duration.

I’d say expect it to be in the 3-4 foot range for most of the wear.

How long does it stick around? Ameline lasts on my skin for between 6-7 hours. Not terrible and the performance as a whole stays just above average. I like it. It’s not a massive bomb that goes for days, but you get a solid run with it.


Overall Impression of Ameline

Overall, do I like Phlur’s Ameline? I do. I think it’s one of their better perfumes, that I’ve tested. It’s very wearable and never had me wanting to scrub it off. I actually thought it was quite pleasant.

I like that the bergamot citrus got the upper hand in the opening versus the pink pepper. The rose is a lighter pink type, with a sandalwood and patchouli blend that gives this one a drier and somewhat powdery finish.

Performance is good enough for what this is. Again, don’t expect Ameline to go all day, but for most uses, you’ll be absolutely okay with this one. Plus, it’s strong suit is how versatile it is.

The question becomes is it worth the near $100 current price tag? For some, maybe. I think this skirts the border of being worthwhile or not. I would suggest getting a sample or otherwise trying it out, if that price is a stretch.

I don’t think Ameline will be a complete love for most, but it’s also not going to be completely hateable.