Tom Ford

Comparing Santal 33 vs. Oud Wood

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Santal 33 from Le Labo and Oud Wood from Tom Ford are two very popular releases that people seem to have a tough time deciding between. I have never been a mega fan of either of these fragrances, but have tested each out repeatedly over the years.

So, today I am going to try and provide my own personal in depth takes while comparing these two perfumes, to see if I can help you get some clarity in this head to head matchup.

Tale of the Tape: Santal 33 vs. Oud Wood

Santal 33

Notes include: sandalwood, violet, iris, amber, cardamom, leather, papyrus, cedar

Click here to try: Santal 33 on Amazon

Read my original review: Santal 33

Oud Wood

Notes include: rosewood, sandalwood, oud, vanilla, tonka bean, amber, cardamom, and vetiver

Click here to try: Oud Wood on Amazon

Read my original review: Oud Wood

Opening

Oud Wood starts off with a strong blast of the oud note and cardamom. Underneath that, is a peppery sort of spice. It’s warm and dry, with sandalwood and rosewood, already being prominent at the base. It’s a very spicy and woody, sort of aroma up top.

Santal also has the cardamom and dry woods. Just without the oud. It’s not remotely as spicy as Oud Wood is either. This notes are joined by leather and violet. Papyrus is a oud which distinguishes itself from the oud used in the Tom Ford scent.

Which is better? The opening act of Oud Wood is a great array of the various wood notes and spices. It’s not completely amazing, but it captures my attention.

I like the leather facets, the use of the papyrus in Santal. Though, even with that I feel the opening act is the weakest of the perfume.

Not a huge win, but I’ll give this category to Oud.

Edge: Oud Wood

Projection

Both of these are perfumes with a moderate sillage which then turn into lighter fragrances. I don’t think either is weak and both of them are detectable for most of their wear.

That being said, the Tom Ford perfume feels heavier and like it has a further reach at its peak. Yes, Santal 33 is more sustained on my skin, but I think Oud Wood is technically the stronger of the two.

Edge: Oud Wood

Longevity

Oud Wood has always been a strange one for me. Anytime that I’ve tried this fragrance out, I’ve gotten 4-5 hours of wear from it. The Intense version, lasted over 10 hours for me, however.

The Le Labo perfume will hit the 7-8 hour range, on my skin.

Neither of these is an absolute beast with their performance, but Santal 33 takes this category fairly easily in my experience.

Edge: Santal 33

Versatility

Seasonally, Oud Wood always struck me as being built more for the autumn and winter months. Santal can do that too, but it also extends well into springtime. Honestly, outside of the height of summer, I think the Le Labo works.

Both of these are unisex, of course. But, I think Santal has a wider range of use cases as a signature scent or a daily wear. Neither is a nightlife beast, but Santal also just has a wider appeal than you’re going to get with the oud based scent.

Edge: Santal 33

Overall Scent

Overall, which of these perfumes do I like more? I’d go with Santal versus Oud Wood. Which, I think that Oud Wood Intense was the better of the two anyway. Of course, it’s the one that got discontinued.

Oud Wood starts out nice, but never really interests me much beyond that. Sure, it has similar vibes at times to Santal, but I just think that the Le Labo smells better.

Santal has a weaker start. It’s never been bad to me, just kind of meh, who cares? Though, it really gets going as it transitions into the heart of the wear.

Along with the scent itself, Santal has better performance and will fit the style of a wider range of people. Plus, a more extensive use case. Santal checks more boxes and gets the win here.

Winner: Santal 33

Noir Extreme by Tom Ford

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Still working my way through a box of samples, that I received 5-6 months ago, and only 40-something more fragrances to do write-ups on! For this entry, we have a very popular men’s fragrance by Tom Ford, Noir Extreme. This scent was released in 2015.

This is of course, the flanker fragrance to the original Noir, and one which has plenty of fans. I will cover what the notes are, how it smells, how it performs, and whether or not Noir Extreme is worth a purchase.

Note: I have updated this post several times since the initial review of the sample that I bought years ago.

What does Noir Extreme Smell Like?

Notes include: Cardamom, vanilla, saffron, amber, sandalwood, nutmeg, neroli, orange blossom, kulfi, rose

Click here to try: Tom Ford Noir Extreme Men Eau De Parfum Spray, 3.4 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Noir Extreme is to my nose, a floral spice. The nutmeg and cardamom notes add the warm spice, and I also pick up that familiar saffron smell, along with neroli and orange blossom. It’s warm, with a potent initial spice, and an underlying citrus sweetness.

Yes, the spice is fairly strong at first, but it quickly moves into something that is much sweeter. Vanilla is the main culprit for that, along with what I guess is kulfi (some sort of Indian dessert), but I have no frame of reference for what that should smell like.

However, there is a pistachio note as a part of this accord, and it really comes through with the vanilla about 10-15 minutes into the wear.

At this point in the wear, I really enjoy the vibe that I am getting from Noir Extreme. It is a great gourmand aroma, with ambery warmth, and a nice balance of floral notes. At this stage, a bit of rose and jasmine come out, but neither is all that distinct within the composition.

Though, it does smell more floral than it had been previously, more of a light bouquet effect versus any one standout.

Further along, a woody base emerges, with creamy sandalwood and maybe cedar? I’m not sure what the other wood note is, maybe a blend of some kind. Either way, it solidifies the fragrance, and adds some depth.

What I ultimately get from Noir Extreme is: a creamy/milky vanilla dessert aroma, with amber, saffron, cardamom, and a mix of floral notes. It is deliciously sweet, warm, and very appealing.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

noir extreme review

Projection wise, the sillage starts off strong for me. That power will last for a few hours, before it settles down, closer to the skin.

From there, it is light to moderate. I do enjoy the boldness of the start of Noir Extreme, the later whiffs that you get are nice too, but doesn’t have that same impact.

However, the longevity is still good, even after it loses some sillage strength and 8 hours of wear is not out of the question with this Tom Ford perfume.

Usually it will fall in the 6-8 hour range. It’s not a super beast with how long it lasts, but it is good enough for most purposes. Update: With my full bottle, I can sometimes get an extra hour from Extreme.

Seasonally, I would reserve this for autumn and winter, mostly. It is beautiful in the cooler temperatures and would be fine in more temperate ones. However, it isn’t really built for heat and humidity, so I’d skip on wearing it in summer.

For me, I’d say I really only have a 4-5 month window to wear Noir Extreme where I live. You may get a few more months out of it.

It is a men’s fragrance, but strikes me more as a unisex wear. It’s gourmand sweetness would work just fine for a lady. It also feels more natural to wear it dressed up. To the office, a formal or at least, semi-formal occasion.

It is an attractive fragrance, that people really seem to enjoy, catching a whiff of. The vanilla note sits perfectly on my skin and it’s really nice to wear.

Update: After a few years with Extreme, I can say that it is great for the nightlife. I’ve worn it on dates or at bars and lounges. With it, I have gotten overwhelmingly positive responses, commenting on how ‘sexy’ a fragrance it is.

Overall Impressions of Noir Extreme

Overall, do I like Noir Extreme? Absolutely. This is becoming one of my personal favorite Tom Ford scents, that I’ve worn thus far (and that’s most of them). The vanilla blend, the cardamom, amber, and spice notes at the top are all great.

I wish the sillage held its power for longer, but the overall performance is still very solid. It is an expensive fragrance, but is probably one that would be worth owning. Noir Extreme isn’t super ‘extreme’ but it is a very beautiful fragrance. Somewhat limited to cooler temperatures.

Coming back to this one a few more times, has really made me appreciate the intricate layers of this fragrance. I’m not one of the Tom Ford super fans, but when this label gets it right, the results are spectacular. This is one of those instances.

Noir Extreme and Noir de Noir are Ford scents that I can come back to time and time again. If it could get a few more hours of wear, it would be near perfect for certain times of the year. As it is, it’s still one of the best fragrances around.

Update: I’m probably half way through my full bottle of Noir Extreme. It’s absolutely one of my favorites for wintertime. Tom Ford also released a Parfum version of Noir Extreme, which some people prefer.

Personally, I like the original a bit more still. Though, I own and wear both (sometimes together). Try both and see how each works for you.

noir extreme parfum

Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford

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Continuing on with my Tom Ford fragrance reviews, today we have a citrusy-floral perfume from the designer. This is a 2011 release entitled, Neroli Portofino. It is actually one of the more popular scents from the lineup, but what makes that so? How does it smell? What’s inside? Is Neroli Portofino even worth it?

What does Neroli Portofino Smell Like?

Notes include: neroli, orange flower, amber, mandarin, bergamot, jasmine, lavender, lemon

Click here to try: Tom Ford Neroli Portofino 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Neroli Portofino presents my nose with a citrus burst, mainly comprised of lemon, and a mix of floral notes particularly orange blossom at first and then the neroli.

The neroli will come into its own, later in the wear. But, initially I get a lot more orange blossom than the namesake of the perfume.

It’s juicy citrus with floral undertones and a noticeable soapy quality. It actually feels quite similar to other scents that I have tried, so this isn’t one that I can say is wholly unique.

Is there a spiciness here? Sure, neroli and the rosemary briefly give Neroli Portofino some kick, but it’s not to the same extent as some of the other Tom Ford releases, that share this same sort of style.

There is a nice amber note within the composition which adds a different aspect to this fragrance besides really clean citrus-flower. It creates a warm heart and adds to the inviting soapy vibe, though it isn’t very powerful.

As it dries down, I begin to get more of the neroli, less of the lemon and orange notes and the jasmine peaks through also. Neroli Portofino is admittedly pretty darn linear in its presentation.

Sure, the citrus subsides more, but it never really goes away to become just a floral fragrance. The only further development to my nose from here, is some lavender, entering the picture.

Neroli, jasmine, lavender, and some amber for the rest of the wear. Citrusy white floral, when boiled down.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, the sillage of Neroli Portofino is pretty light to moderate. It’s by no means a bomb, but you’ll notice it for the first couple of hours with a decent amount of application. After that, this Tom Ford perfume, sits quite close to the skin.

If you want any sort of real projection with it, you’re going to have to spray heavy.

The longevity isn’t great, but I get about 5-6 hours of wear from it. It doesn’t seem like it lasts very long, because it isn’t one that projects itself very well, but it is still there.

Even still, 5 or 6 hours of wear at this price, is pretty bad. The performance takes Neroli Portofino down a few notches, in my book.

Seasonally, this is one for the spring and summer months. I’d lean more toward wearing it in the summertime, due to the great citrus elements. That’s actually my favorite aspect of this scent, the lemon and orange zesty element that hangs around during the wear.

Neroli Portofino is listed as a unisex perfume and it is. I’d say that it leans more toward the female side of things, since it is pretty flowery, but it isn’t overly so and not feminine enough to take away the unisex aspect.

Overall Impressions of Neroli Portofino

Overall, do I like it? I do enjoy the scent of Neroli Portofino, but I wouldn’t buy it for myself. It smells very nice, but the longevity and sillage isn’t great enough for me to justify paying Tom Ford prices for it.

Plus, there are many other scents that have a similar or almost exactly the same aroma for a better price. Good fragrance? Absolutely. Worth it? Ehhh, not for me at least.

I like the citrus notes and the opening act. The floral dry down is nice, but it gets a little too soapy. I prefer the fruits to the floral notes. Forte goes too hard with the citrus notes and is nicer, when it dries down.

The citrus and orange blossom, I usually prefer over neroli anyway. That being said, the neroli note in this is spectacular in its quality. Very fine stuff, if it’s a scent that you personally enjoy. Though, it’s not really a fragrance that everyone needs in their collection.

Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford

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In this edition of the never-ending fragrance reviews on this site, we have yet another entry from Tom Ford. This one is entitled, Tobacco Oud, which should be a giveaway as to what type of scent you can expect. It was released in 2013. In this post, I will cover my experiences with Tobacco Oud, and determine whether or not it is worth a try.

What does Tobacco Oud Smell Like?

Notes include: tobacco, oud, amber, whiskey, vanilla, cinnamon, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, coriander, cedar, incense

Click here to try: Tom Ford Private Blend Tobacco Oud Eau De Parfum Spray 100ml/3.4oz

My Full Review

Tobacco Oud opens up with very prominent oud that is soaked in whiskey and quite resinous. The tobacco strikes my nose as being pipe tobacco, already cured with some spicy coriander and cinnamon peaking through.

The opening isn’t the best part of this Tom Ford, as it is more about the whiskey and oud over the tobacco notes. It’s smoky and a bit dirty with patchouli. I do like a good whiskey note, and this gets better, but I’m really not all that enthralled with this opening act.

As it dries down, the incense and warm resinous qualities (including benzoin) begin to be more prominent, and the oud less so. Also, the tobacco rises to the top of the heap, this is when I start to enjoy Tobacco Oud much more.

It’s a spicy oriental flavor surrounding the tobacco and the still present boozy quality of the whiskey note. Benzoin is one of my favorite resinous or balsamic notes, with the added incense smoke, you do get a whiskey cigar sort of aroma here.

Finally, the fragrance finally dries down into something that is ultimately woody and with more sweetness. The smoky quality subsides a lot and the tobacco fades, but it smells sweet and warm on the skin.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, I would say that Tobacco Oud projects itself very well for the first hour or so of wear. After that, I find that the sillage is toward the moderate end of things, not too intense but certainly not weak.

With the longevity, Tobacco Oud is a great performer, and will go over 10 hours without issue. It’s essentially like other Tom Ford fragrances of this ilk. It’s going to stick around and give you a completely developed run on your skin.

Seasonally, Tobacco Oud is an autumn/winter wear. The warmth, spices, etc. aren’t going to be too great in the heat, but do perform quite well in the cold. It’s not a casual sort of fragrance at all.

While, this is technically a unisex scent, it is actually heavily masculine to my nose. I wouldn’t want to smell this on a girlfriend ever. It’s more refined and niche, but I wouldn’t call it a sexy fragrance, somewhat attractive but that’s it.

Yet, it’s one that you can wear dressed up on a night out and with the crisp and colder air of the winter, it can absolutely stand out.

 

 

Overall Impressions of Tobacco Oud

Overall, do I like Tobacco Oud? I like aspects of it. The opening is my least favorite part, but I like the dry down more. Still, it’s never been a fragrance that is a personal favorite of mine. Whiskey, tobacco, and benzoin are highlights but not enough to truly sell me on Tobacco Oud.

Personally, I like Tobacco Oud Intense more. Even if, neither are really my style. 

This scent has strong Middle Eastern/Oriental aroma to it, I think that every high-end designer has their version of this vibe. Other people seem to like this more than I do, at least that seems to be the take online.

The performance is also very good, so, you at least get bang for your buck. It just is a niche sort of scent, it will appeal to a certain type of fragrance lover, but probably not something that the masses will adopt.

You’re going to have to be a fan of resinous, incense smoke, tobacco, oud, and herbal spices. If that’s your thing, than this is your fragrance. For me, it’s above average, but I’ve never clamored to want to wear this particular Tom Ford.

Ombre Leather by Tom Ford

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I received in the mail a sample card from Tom Ford with a pull down tab of the new unisex scent, Ombre Leather, inside. I sniffed the card and really enjoyed the fragrance that I was smelling.

So, I headed to the mall to get me some actual sprays onto my skin for a review. Then, tried it once more a few days later. (note: I’ve updated this page since the initial post)

With that in mind, I have gathered my thoughts on this 2018 release, and type them up in this post. As usual, I will cover: what’s inside, what it smells like, when it should be worn, and whether or not I think it is worth a purchase.

What does Ombre Leather Smell Like?

Notes include: leather, moss, jasmine, amber, patchouli and cardamom

Click here to try: Ombré Leather Eau de Parfum Spray, 1.7-oz.

Okay, so, before I dive into my own review of Ombre Leather let’s see how Tom Ford describes it:

Vast. Untethered. Driven. Freedom comes from within, the desert heart of the west wrapped in leather. It moves forward, Untethered, through the still air of wide-open space. Dust on wind, skin on skin, Ombre Leathers reveals itself like a landscape in layers, where stretches of rock transform into sunrise blonde low on the horizon. 

My Full Review

Upon first smell, Ombre Leather naturally brought to mind Tom Ford’s, Tuscan Leather (without raspberry, but there does seem to be a bit of sweetness there). However, I actually feel like this 2018 Ombre Leather, smells more like Godolphin by Parfums de Marly at the start.

It took me a while to remember which Parfums de Marly, was reminding me of the Tom Ford, and had to look up the notes when I got home. Yep, they share the amber, leather, moss, and jasmine notes.

While I like Godolphin, I think that the leather note in this one is utterly fantastic.

It is a very dark sort of fragrance but not some overwhelming monstrosity with heavy spices. Ombre Leather is definitely unisex, dry, and warm; like how they describe the desert in the paragraph above.

The leather aroma smells like a high end jacket fresh off the rack, intense, and you can almost feel its presence in the room. It’s all super supple and smooth.

It does have spice early on. Cardamom and saffron really come through. The cardamom is there after that initial spray, but is the quickest of the notes to begin to fade.

The amber here is honestly not that intense, it kind of lurks in the background, but never really jumped out at me during the wear. Not that it isn’t totally present throughout. It does provide nice support, however.

What I do get during the dry down, is that familiar jasmine aroma, which lightens and adds a floral sweetness to the composition and allows Ombre Leather to become more unisex.

Geeeeezz, the leather and jasmine combo is really great. It’s pretty much what makes this scent for me.

This one is very well blended and can be somewhat difficult to distinguish the notes beyond just the leather at some points. There is a very nice dried outdoorsy spice in this one. Quite earthy moss, vetiver, and patchouli, which isn’t very heavy but does add some depth of character to Ombre Leather.

It does seem to be more vetiver at times, but I’ve seen both it and moss listed as notes…so who knows, how much is there of each. It’s difficult to discern.

Overall, it’s a clean and warm sort of scent, but it does have that rough/dirty side to it. The Western theme of the marketing campaign, actually does seem to fit, unlike so many other ridiculous fragrance adverts over the years.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, this one starts out strong. You won’t need more than a few sprays, because it veers into beast mode, at the beginning. It does dry down into something that is much more moderate, but by no means light. Just know, that it can be intense.

The longevity is actually very good, but there are two stages to it. The first is when it is noticeable, which is 6-8 hours of wear.

The second, as a skin scent, which will go on for about 3 more hours. Honestly, in most situations the longevity will be a-ok, for most anybody. It’s just not a 12+ hour ride of crazy loudness.

On clothes, Ombre Leather will go for days on end. Not massive projection that far into it, but you can pick up on it when you’re wearing the item of clothing.

Seasonally, autumn and winter. I don’t think it’d be truly awful in warmer weather, but it is simply great in the cold.

Does it have sex appeal? I think it does, but not everyone likes the smell of rich leather, so it’s not going to be universally beloved like a lot of the most popular fragrances.

Ombre Leather seems to perfectly straddle the line with the elements of masculinity but can still be oh so good on a woman. Wear this one with a leather jacket, or semi-formally, or with formal wear at night.

Overall Impressions of Ombre Leather

Overall, do I like Ombre Leather? Yep. Tom Ford did good with this one. I wasn’t too enthused with Noir Anthracite last year, but man, am I starting to love Ombre.

The leather is some of the best I have ever smelled in a fragrance and I enjoy the overlap it has with a scent like Goldolphin.

If you don’t like leather, then this is obviously not for you. Though, I think that this fragrance should be give a try, if you dig the leather note at all…because the one here, rocks. It takes a different tact than many other leather scents, but still remains familiar and has a nice amount of depth.

Update: Coming back to this in 2022, this might be my favorite leather scent. It’s really great and long lasting. I’ve also compared it to Ombre Leather Parfum, but I still prefer this.

The initial warmth and spice, the jasmine note, that earthy rugged desert vibe lurking underneath. The amber note…Ombre Leather is great. One of Tom Ford’s best.