Cologne Reviews

Apple Brandy on the Rocks by Kilian

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Apple Brandy on the Rocks was a new release by Kilian Paris, that I really wanted to try ever since I first heard about it. Update: This post is from 2021, with some new additions. So, I ordered a sample to have as soon as I got back into town and have been testing this fragrance out. Does the Kilian Liquors perfume live up to the hype? How long does it last? Is it actually worth a buy?

Apple Brandy on the Rocks Overview

Notes include: cardamom, bergamot, ambroxan, apple, pineapple, cedar, rum, vanilla, and moss

Click here to try: Apple Brandy on the Rocks from Sephora

My Full Review

Here’s how Kilian describes this scent: Inspired by the city of New York, KILIAN PARIS introduces its new addition to the Liquors olfactive family: Apple Brandy on the Rocks, an olfactive soundtrack to nightlife’s liberation to come.

The opening to Apple Brandy on the Rocks doesn’t fully work for me. I’ve tested it multiple times on multiple days and still…meh.

There’s an aspect in here that I know I like, the apple and cardamom. However, the pineapple, bergamot, and ambroxan together are heavy and not very appealing.

Those do settle down and this Kilian fragrance will get better. After some more time passes, the apple not fully emerges which gives it a crisp finish, and I start to pick up more on the boozy rum note.

Apple, cardamom, rum are the keys to the second wave. Thankfully, that pineapple note pulls back. The ambroxan? It’s still around too much. It’s warm, slightly sweet, with a fresh coolness peaking through from apple and moss.

The next stage is apple and vanilla with woodsy notes, mostly. Oak, moss, and cedar sitting underneath apple and vanilla. The rum and cardamom, aren’t distinct any longer and provide a general warmth to the fresh woods.

It does simulate the apple brandy smell, well enough overall.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, I thought this one was going to be pretty powerful. The opening does hit strong and projects very well. That is short lived, however. Ultimately, it’s pretty moderate for a few hours. Then, it will sit close to the skin for the rest of the time.

The longevity isn’t great. I get somewhere in the 5-6 hour range, on my skin. That’s pretty bad for a Kilian perfume, as many others I enjoy will hit double digits.

It just doesn’t seem to want to stay around at all. That’s probably my biggest gripe with this one. I know it’s ‘fresher’ aspects can be short-lived, still rather disappointing for the price.

Seasonally, stick to autumn and winter. This is going to be at it’s best in colder temperatures. In the heat, the performance is much worse.

In the chilly air, Apple Brandy on the Rocks has its moments where it catches my attention. That being said, it does have a freshness to it that you might be able to sneak into the springtime, in many places. It’s not as ‘thick’ as Angels’ Share.

It’s a pretty casual fragrance that can be used for nightlife. Unisex for sure, probably leans a bit more towards the traditionally masculine side of the spectrum.

Daily wear too. But, I guess that depends on whether you can get away with smelling like apple brandy in your day to day life. Probably not the most office-friendly perfume for most people out there.

Overall Impressions of Apple Brandy on the Rocks

Overall, do I like this scent? It’s decent. I really like the original Apple Brandy by Kilian and was excited about this one, coming heavier with the fruit notes and freshness. But, ultimately it didn’t live up to expectations.

I was wondering if I was going to have to buy a full bottle of this, right after I did with Angels’ Share from the Liquors collection. Nope.

It’s not terrible and there are aspects that I enjoy. Mainly, the apple and cardamom when they are joined by the rum. The opening pineapple and ambroxan, I don’t like.

The dry down, with vanilla, woods, and moss added to apple and the remaining general warmth from the rum and cardamom is pretty good. It do get the comparisons with Legend, but they aren’t anywhere close to being the same, just have a few similarities.

So, even if the performance was awesome, I wouldn’t be inclined to get a bottle. The mediocre sillage and longevity, just compounds the reasons.

I don’t hate Apple Brandy on the Rocks. At this price range though, I do want something spectacular. To me, this just never hits that level. You may actually like it, but I don’t think it’s one to buy blind.

I did try a fragrance from the Dua Brand called, Blackberry Brandy. I know they have other fruit note brandy perfumes. That one is cheaper and quite good for this style of scent.

Vanille de Tahiti by Perris Monte Carlo

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Vanille de Tahiti was released by Perris Monte Carlo in 2020. I received a sample as a bonus to one of my orders some time ago. I hadn’t heard of this one and actually put off trying it out for a long while. But, eventually I got around to Vanille and wanted to see what it was all about. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

Vanille de Tahiti Overview

Notes include: champaca, ylang-ylang, vanilla, amber, sandalwood, musk

Click here to try: Vanille de Tahiti

My Full Review

Opening minute is pretty dirty with how it comes across. Between the the ylang-ylang influence and champaca  opening, I get why people might get put off by it. That does clear out pretty fast, for me at least.

The ylang-ylang initially has its earthier aroma going for it, but then starts to take on its more banana-like scent. The champaca here, really comes across as an orange flower note, at least a few minutes in. With those two and the vanilla, there plastic/rubbery tinge to this scent.

Much more floral on the skin. Like a tropical flower smell, once that initial dirtiness wears off. The vanilla seems like one part of a triad on the skin, whereas it feels more dominant early on, when sprayed on clothes.

Actually on clothes, this has a classier Le Male vibe to it, that same fuzzy spice (sans mint/cinnamon). Strange.

Eventually, both on skin and clothes it becomes very much the same. Still, an early divergence.

More of a light champaca, ylang-ylang with a definite sweetness, vanilla, and amber especially. The vanilla isn’t pure creamy vanilla either. Leans that way with the sandalwood influence but Vanille de Tahiti does have a musky/powdery undertone throughout.

The dry down for me is a rather simple aroma of a naturalistic vanilla, amber, and sandalwood. It’s creamier at this point, still a lovely sweetness without being sickly, and this Perris perfume has a nice balance.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This is a moderate fragrance with how it projects with a lighter scent trail. It’s not going to necessarily reach across the room. However, in my testing of it, it does create a nice scent bubble and is noticeable for almost the entire wear.

The longevity with this one is around 7-8 hours. It’s not the most powerful scent out there, but it does stick around for a good while. It’s nothing elite, but I really wasn’t disappointed with this Perris fragrance.

Seasonally, this one is a bit too much for the height of summer, but it can fit in nicely during the rest of the year. I think it actually works better on a mild day versus the coldest days of winter.

Yes, this is a unisex scent too. Maybe the floral notes make it lean more traditionally feminine, but if you’re a vanilla fan, this can absolutely work for anyone.

Vanille de Tahiti is more of a daytime fragrance. It can be worn casually, to work, dressed up, etc. I don’t think it’d be out of place in certain nightlife situations, but it’s also not a complete club beast or anything.

If it works for your skin, this will probably get complements. Though, I’m not sure how it’s going to come across to those who have noses the really focus in on the more animalic/dirty aspects of the perfume.

Overall Impressions of Vanille de Tahiti

Overall, do I like this perfume? Yes, I actually kind of love it. I knew nothing of this fragrance when I received it, but it’s won me over.

The opening minutes almost made me doubt, but it is a beautiful scent, once I’m past that. Even still, it’s nothing all that bad.

I guess there are some people who get a dirty or toilet type of smell for a long duration. Not the case for me, it’s more just a dirty floral scent for a brief time.

That’s probably going to stop me from giving this a total buy recommendation. I’d say for sure try, if you can before you commit. It’d be disappointing to find out you’re one of those people, who it smells terrible on, after splurging on a fully bottle.

The sandalwood, vanilla, and amber dry down is awesome. With the remaining floral notes floating around, it’s very enjoyable.

Santal 33 by Le Labo

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Santal 33 has been a massive (I mean, massive) hit for Le Labo since its release back in 2011. There was a time when it was talked about and referenced all of the time. Now, it has calmed down since that earlier era, but still exists as a wildly popular best-seller.

I bought another sample of this unisex perfume in order to revisit and finally put up a full review of Santal 33 for the site. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it still worth a try?

Santal 33 Overview

Notes include: sandalwood, papyrus, leather, violet, cedar, cardamom, iris, amber

Click here to try: Santal 33

My Full Review

To start with, I guess I’ll address the so-called ‘pickle juice’ smell that Santal 33 gets painted with. I can understand why, if certain aspects of this really pop on your skin, but for me I only get a faint bit of it.

Really, this one starts off with a mix of cardamom, violet, some leather, and the ever-present dry woods. Papyrus is the lead wood on me for a while, which will obviously shift to the star of the show, the namesake sandalwood.

The cardamom is the lead. Which, interestingly isn’t the type that gives off the lemony aroma, here it feels fresher with its spice and somewhat camphorous. The cooling sensation is interesting against the papyrus and the violet especially.

Already, I get the powdery qualities of that floral note and the iris. Thankfully, for my own enjoyment, the violet note is kept in check here.

After a while, Santal 33 becomes a clean mix of the floral notes, with the woods which are shifting. Cedar comes on stronger, papyrus fades, and the sandalwood keeps gaining steam.

There is a period here, mostly in the middle act, where I think this Le Labo fragrance really shines. It becomes perfectly balance between the violet, iris, leather, amber, and sandalwood (and other woods). It’s slightly sweet, comforting, smooth, and just great to catch a whiff of.

The dry down is still soft, really dominated by sandalwood and the remnants of everything else. It actually takes on a muskier kind of profile. Dry and still clean, with a light touch of sweetness, and any spice has fallen away.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This one has a lighter feeling with a pretty substantial projection, in the first few hours. Not a complete beast, unless you start spraying heavy, but I can smell it on me without issue. I can also put some on a shirt and smell it from 6-7 feet away.

Still, this one isn’t heavy and doesn’t feel like it’ll bog you down in a heavy cloud of scent.

On my skin, Santal 33 will last for 7-8 hours. Not amazing, but still very solid for what this one is. It could just fall into being a barely noticeable skin scent. Yet, it doesn’t hit that level for me until deep into the wear.

Seasonally, this is almost a year round fragrance. On the hottest and most humid days of summer, I might go with something else other than this. Outside of that, it should work just fine.

Yes, it is a unisex fragrance. Perhaps slightly more feminine, but I don’t think it strays to far that way, and should work for most people.

Santal 33 is very versatile. Daytime, casual, office wear, school, etc. It’s not entirely formal but doesn’t feel too out of place anywhere. It’s not a straight nightlife perfume either, there are obviously sexier scents, but it’s clean enough that it could work a night.

Overall Impressions of Santal 33

Overall, do I like Santal 33? I do. If I’m just making a decision off of the scent alone, I do still find this one to be thoroughly enjoyable.

Sure, it has been hyped to the stratosphere over the past decade-plus and copied countless times. Still, Santal 33 is a good fragrance. I’m not ever blown away by it, but it has its charm.

That entry into the heart of the note pyramid is actually great, though. The opening is probably its weakest part. It’s fine, 33 just gets better after that.

I think in certain areas especially, everyone wore this perfume for years, which can understandably be grating. This is what is currently happening with Baccarat Rouge 540.

The performance is above average and to me there’s no real downside with this one, other than no longer having a unique aroma.

Most people like this one. Some people love it. While still others, loathe it. At the very least, Santal 33 is a perfume that is indeed worth a try. Even if, it’s just to satisfy your curiosity about the hype, if you’re someone who has yet to try it.

Cedre Blanc EDP by Creed

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Cedre Blanc is a Creed fragrance that I had never gotten around to testing out. It was released back in 2014. But, when I saw a sample of it available online, I threw it in one of my batch orders. So, I really had no expectations of this fragrance going in. How does it smell? Does Cedre Blanc last long? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Cedre Blanc Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, bay leaf, galbanum, cardamom, geranium, lily, jasmine, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood

My Full Review

Cedre Blanc opens up with a lot going on. It’s fresh and woody, as the name suggests. But, there is also a bright, juicy, and sour bergamot coming through. Also, some greenish and somewhat bitter galbanum. Plus, a host of spiciness from mostly bay leaf (with some cardamom).

It’s a bunch to take in. However, it works well enough, especially if this is your type of perfume. Which, I will say up front, isn’t going to be most people’s cup of tea.

The next phase is more floral with jasmine and lily. There is still the spiciness of the bay leaf, but much of the bitterness and the citrus has moved on.

Less of an intense spice, more of a fresh and clean woods (hints of a watery accord, probably lily and remaining bergamot). Geranium, vetiver, and our cedar note are already making themselves known.

Finally, Cedre Blanc is a fresh and greenish fragrance with undertones of the floral notes. Cedar, geranium, galbanum, vetiver, florals, and the sandalwood. Very clean with sort of a mossy-like aroma. The complexity of the opening tones way down and this Creed becomes pretty simple.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

That initial spray does have some intensity to it. As I said, there’s a lot going on here at first, and it’s also pretty loud.

Still, it does have a freshness about it, and it’s not a completely heavy fragrance. That initial projection is quite good though. After that, it will quickly become a softer scent.

Honestly, it was kind of surprising how quickly this one calmed down into something which sat so close to the skin. Much of the wear will be about a 1-3 radius from where you sprayed Cedre Blanc.

The longevity is also kind of lacking. For me, I got somewhere around six hours during my testing of it. If this were a $40 perfume, I wouldn’t be too mad. At Creed prices, it’s pretty bad.

This is a spring and summer wear. It’s nicer to smell while outside than indoors. I was walking around on a warmer day with it on and that’s when I was most impressed by what Cedre Blanc brings to the table.

Pretty much a daytime wear, however. Not one that’s going to be a nightlife or date night sort of wear. It’s a unisex perfume, but it leans masculine, even with the floral influence.

Unique, in a lot of ways, but this is a fragrance for those who want something niche. It’s pleasant enough, but wasn’t ever going to enjoy mass appeal.

Overall Impressions of Cedre Blanc

Overall, do I like Cedre Blanc? It’s not for me. I don’t think it’s bad, it’s certainly unique, but it’s really nothing special.

Especially, at the Creed price point. There’s probably a very limited market for this, which is why it appears to be discontinued now. So, if this one was of interest to you, you’d better get a move on finding a sample or biting the bullet and buying a full bottle.

I do enjoy the bay leaf note that’s in here. It’s an ingredient that is more of a ‘once in a while’ type of thing for me, but I did appreciate it. The dry down is also a highlight. Things have settled down and there isn’t the same initial bitterness.

Performance does leave much to be desired. Really not powerful stuff, outside of a sharp opening act. A pretty intimate scent bubble and less than a full work day of wear for sure. Again, Cedre Blanc is absolutely not a value play, you’ve really got to like this scent for it to be worthwhile.

Not something I want. Nor will most people, but there is a small percentage of you, that would really appreciate this blend. How much that’s worth to you, is your call.

Jazz Club by Maison Martin Margiela

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Jazz Club is one of the more popular fragrances released under the Replica banner from Maison Margiela. This one came out back in 2013. I recently bought a new sample of this perfume to test out and do a full review of. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Replica Jazz Club Smell Like?

Notes include: pink pepper, lemon, neroli, rum, tobacco, vetiver, clary sage, vanilla, styrax

Click here to try: Jazz Club Replica

My Full Review

Jazz Club opens up with its spiciness taking center stage. You do get aromatic undertones and sweetness coming through, but that pink pepper and rum are pretty prominent early on.

Mostly, I get those two notes and the tobacco at this beginning stage of the wear. Touches of citrus from lemon and neroli (more neroli), some of the clary sage, but those first three really have a hold here.

The pink pepper is the first note that will begin to falter, with vanilla and vetiver stepping up. It feels sweeter, dryer, and more tobacco heavy than the opening act.

The rum will enter this stage as a co-equal leader with the tobacco, but be much weaker by the end. For me, it really doesn’t fall off completely until the very last gasps of this fragrance’s wear time.

So, a vanilla and tobacco blend with sweetness, some incense-like smokiness, the remaining rum, and a soft ambery kind of base.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

While this can have a bold start and it is somewhat heavy and built for the colder months, I don’t find Jazz Club to be one that projects massively past the first hour.

It’s a bit above average in that regard, just not by much. The back half of the wear is going to be sitting pretty close to the skin. More intimate than a complete skin scent, though.

The longevity here, is pretty good for me. Nothing outstanding, but I can get up to about 7 hours of wear, on a good day. Going to be closer to six hours, other times.

Not a complete workhorse, but decent enough. Especially, if I’m only wearing it for a night out.

Seasonally, this one is all about the autumn and winter months. Jazz Club with its booziness and smokiness, is a cold weather staple. But, those factors also make it more of a nighttime wear, since you probably don’t want to show up to work smelling like rum.

This is a casual, going out fragrance, maybe some romantic wear. It is a scent that people generally like and will complement, it’s just not the most formal fragrance out there. However, that cozy feeling Jazz Club can generate, will be well worth the price of admission for many people.

Overall Impressions of Jazz Club

Overall, do I like Jazz Club? Yes, it’s definitely one of my favorites from Maison Margiela. Personally, By the Fireplace is my favorite and the one that I have a full bottle of.

This is a better bet for those who don’t want something as sweet as By the Fireplace. It’s still got that for sure, but it’s also not as spicy as Fireplace either. Smoky yet smooth with its tobacco note. Not overly complex, but enjoyable.

I do really like that initial burst of the rum note. I’m not too hot on the pink pepper, but it works well enough. Really, the highlight is when you get a more distributed mix of the rum and the tobacco notes working together and the emergence of vanilla.

The performance could be better, but it isn’t so terrible to make this not worth checking out. Again, I do think this is one of the better offerings from this designer, particularly for men. If it sounds interesting to you, don’t hesitate to give it a go.