Godolphin by Parfums De Marly

Yes, I am indeed still working my way through the samples of all of the Parfums de Marly colognes that I received a month plus ago. If you want to check out the rest, they are along with every other review I’ve ever done, on the fragrance reviews page.

We have now made it to Godolphin from this line and as always I want to explore and break down what makes this scent tick. How it performs, smells, what’s inside, etc. Godolphin was released in 2010.


What does Godolphin Smell Like?

Notes include: saffron, leather, iris, rose, jasmine, amber, musk, cedar, thyme, mate, and vetiver

Click here to try: Parfums de Marly Godolphin Men’s Edp Spray, 4.2 Ounce


My Full Wear Review

Right off the bat, I’m going to tell you that I enjoy this fragrance. In fact, I’ve already placed it on my top five fragrance from Parfums de Marly. Just so there’s no confusion about where my thoughts are going to fall on this particular cologne.

The opening is a leather and musk mix. Like the primal animal spice of the musk is sitting on top of the leather note and it also seems to feature some sort of metallic like aroma, of which I’m not quite sure what it is.

Perhaps, that is just the way the saffron is mixing with the other herbal notes and how it is all pieced together.

In a lot of ways, it is like Tuscan Leather and Ombre Leather by Tom Ford. It’s not an exact replica of either, but if you’re familiar with those, this is along those lines.

After the initial 10-15 minutes or so, the musk dies down quite a bit, and I get some sweeter fruit undertones and the emergence of the floral notes. Rose, in particular.

It has that bit of sweetness but it is combined with a dark and intriguing warmth one would expect from a masculine type of fragrance.

The saffron is the other main player here with the dominant leather. I don’t want to make Godolphin seem like an overly masculine scent because it does have those floral notes which give the cologne a great depth and moderation.

This is what I get for pretty much the rest of the way, a sweet leather blend, with a rich rose note, and a somewhat metallic aroma. I really love the saffron note in here. It’s such an underutilized ingredient outside of these more niche designers, but it’s fantastic. 


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, it is fairly strong for the first couple of hours, but then becomes much more of a moderate scent. The sillage isn’t as powerful versus some of the other options by PdM, but it still has a nice strength to it. 

Godolphin also has very good longevity, easily eclipsing the 8+ hour range, and comfortably hitting double digit hours in most situations. It’s not the elite of the elite, but it does give you at least a full standard workday.

Update: Coming back to this fragrance, it seems to hit the 11 hour mark consistently. Occasionally, I’ll still pick it up after that, but 11 is about what I expect to get each time. 

 

I would say that it is a very versatile scent, at least within its seasonal range. Yes, this is a colder weather fragrance, but I’ve worn it in indoor environments here in the summertime.

It can be worn casually, but I think that it fits best when dressed up. Not necessarily formal wear, but for work or for a night on the town. It has a sense of intrigue and sexiness that will draw complements.


Overall Impressions of Godolphin

Overall, do I like Godolphin? Obviously. I think it is a great leather based scent with a complex and amazingly put together profile. Like other Parfums de Marly colognes, it is pricy, but if you’re in the market for this scent…that shouldn’t be too much of a hurdle.

It smells great, performs well, and has a versatile ability to be worn in many situations. It has its similarities to the Tom Ford leather fragrances, while still maintaining its own unique character and providing you another option. 

The leather and saffron combination is very good. It’s probably never going to be a super mass appealing cologne, but Godolphin is easily one that can become a signature scent for the right man. 

Azzaro Wanted vs. The Most Wanted

Azzaro has been releasing new Wanted flankers since the success of the original release. The latest, is The Most Wanted, which is an inspired new take on the formulation. However, how does it actually compare to the original Wanted? Which smells better? Is the better buy overall?


Tale of the Tape: Azzaro Wanted vs The Most Wanted

Azzaro Wanted

Notes include: tonka bean, lemon, cardamom, vetiver, juniper, ginger, geranium, mint, amber wood

Click here to try: Azzaro Wanted Eau De Toilette Spray, 3.4 Ounce

Read my review: Azzaro Wanted


The Most Wanted

notes include: caramel, cardamom, amberwood

Click here to try: Azzaro The Most Wanted Eau de Parfum Intense | Cologne for Men 1.7 fl oz

My Full Review: The Most Wanted


Opening

Azzaro Wanted kicks things off with lemon, ginger, mint, and woods as its main notes. It is a warm and quite sweet start to things. To me, the fragrance has an enveloping quality thanks to the dose of tonka bean and cardamom, and how they blend with mainly the lemon note.

The Most Wanted starts with the same cardamom note as the original. This note has a slightly lemony aroma already, but The Most Wanted doesn’t actually have the citrus note. It’s fresher, spicier, but less of a sharp sweetness.

Though, the Most Wanted is still sweet with the caramel and Bourbon vanilla note. 

Which is better? For me, The Most Wanted smells better at the beginning without question. Wanted can be a bit sharp with its lemon and mint notes, among the mix as a whole. Meanwhile, Most Wanted is much more streamlined and enjoyable.

Edge: Most Wanted


Projection

In terms of sillage, these are both strong fragrances. Maybe The Most Wanted is a bit more powerful and better at projecting, but it’s really not by much. It’s not enough of a difference to base a purchase off of.

Edge: Most Wanted


Longevity

Wanted will give me a range of wear, in between 7-9 hours in total. It’s a well performing, though not elite scent.

The Most Wanted isn’t elite either, but it consistently delivers 9 hours of wear on my skin. Wanted keeps up sometimes, but it isn’t as consistent.

Edge: The Most Wanted

 

 


Versatility

Both fragrances are served best for younger men. More mature than a pure teenagers cologne, but not super refined and formal. I would wear either for nights out, dates, etc.

There’s not too much of a distinction here, they’re from the same line of colognes after all.

Edge: Push


Overall Scent

The original Azzaro Wanted wasn’t a bad fragrance, but it never appealed all that much to me. It was an okay cologne with nice performance. Most of what turned me off of it was the sharpness and sweetness in the opening act. 

Though, I will say that I enjoy the tonka bean and wood notes in the final dry down. That’s the peak of Wanted and it’s definitely very wearable.

However, I thought that Wanted by Night was better than Wanted when it was released. Now? The Most Wanted is my favorite in the series. It’s rare that flanker releases have completely turned me around on a series, but it’s the case here.

The caramel and vanilla notes in The Most Wanted give you a great sweetness. The cardamom, warmth and spice. Plus, there is a freshness here that prevents the fragrance from becoming too heavy. It’s a simpler cologne, but it smells better and also has quality performance.

The Most Wanted wins pretty easily.

Winner: The Most Wanted

6 Best Smelling Patchouli Perfumes for Women

Patchouli is a staple ingredient in both men’s and women’s fragrances. Often times, it won’t be the main note within the composition, but more of a lighter touch in the base to bring things together. It can be a divisive aroma, with some ladies swearing by it while it repels others in the population. Nonetheless, it is a force to be reckoned with and appreciated. In this post, I want to explore six of the best patchouli perfumes for women, to give as a starting point for those who are interested in finding their signature scent.


What are the Top Smelling Patchouli Fragrances for Her?

Dry, Leathery Patchouli

Tom Ford Patchouli Absolu Eau De Parfum 50 Ml– A higher end and fairly niche designer perfume from Tom Ford. Patchouli Absolu does provide a great option for those who love the ingredient.

It opens up with a dry woody aroma, along with some spices of bay leaf and rosemary. The patchouli, will become the star as the scent progresses, but it plays a supporting role in the beginning. 

The spice will calm a bit, leather and oud emerge, along with the patchouli. It’s got a very woodsy earthy aroma, that leans more towards the masculine end of things. However, some women will definitely enjoy wearing this.

It ends up being mostly about the patchouli and leather combination, with some remaining moss still floating around the periphery. Again, this is a niche sort of pick and an expensive one. But, if it’s your type of thing, you get your money’s worth with the performance. Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford Review


Clean Green Patchouli

Patchouli Imperial by Dior– Patchouli Imperial gives you more of a pure patchouli ride for most of the wear. It does open up with a pretty woody and quite smoky aroma, that will settle, but retains a cool instead of a ‘hot’ presence.

It’s a mix of sweet notes, with patchouli, and more ‘greenish’ woody aromas. You also have a spicy kick with the cinnamon note coming through. The fruity top notes allow Patchouli Imperial to have a cleaner scent, rather than a heavier dirty patchouli note.

It is a unisex fragrance that has great performance, though doesn’t feel overwhelming. You’ll probably have to buy a bottle from Dior themselves and fair warning…it’s really pricey. 


The Mass Appealing Chanel

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Intense Eau De Parfum Spray, 1.7 Oz – Mademoiselle Intense is the pumped up patchouli version of the best selling original and one that is quite awesome in its own right. 

Coco Mademoiselle Intense starts off with a very bold orange citrus mix, along with our target note and amber. The citrus will tone down a great deal, when compared to the original Chanel offering, and the jasmine/rose floral heart plays a larger role. 

The dry down is full of the patchouli, amber, and a creamy tonka bean/vanilla. Not to mention, a long-lasting scent with easily over 10 hours of wear. This can be a bold daily wear, that is quite versatile and gives you a blend, with patchouli as the focus rather than the sole ingredient. Coco Mademoiselle Intense Review


The Higher End Chanel

Coromandel by Chanel– There are different variations of Coromandel that have been released by Chanel. There’s the les Exclusifs, the EDP, and the Parfum. Each is going to give you a slightly different formulation and intensity. 

What you get with each of them is our patchouli note, with a warm mix of amber/balsamic/oriental notes (benzoin, frankincense), and a gourmand finish…usually the white chocolate will come through the most. 

The Exclusifs or EDP (whichever is available) tend to be a sweeter formulation with more of an emphasis on the vanilla and white chocolate touches. Meanwhile, the Parfum version feels woodier and denser than the others. 

You’ll probably have to test out which version you go with before committing to a full purchase, but it can be a fantastic choice for patchouli lovers. Coromandel Review

 


Powerful Gourmand Patchouli

Thierry Mugler Angel Eau De Parfum Spray, 1.7 Ounce– Pretty much everyone knows the best selling perfume from Mugler. It’s been around for decades and has spawned a ton of flankers and can still blow out a room with its sillage.

However, the patchouli note is the lynchpin that holds this one all together and creates the environment in which those gourmand notes can thrive. Beyond just beasty power, Angel also has the longevity to match, which makes it a fair deal. The opening is sweet with coconut, a dark chocolate, and fruit notes (mainly melon).

The patchouli note is always present, but the dry down is where it gets to shine. Lots of that heavy edible gourmand style in the beginning, with a warm patchouli note finish. Notes include: vanilla, sandalwood, and patchouli,  fresh citrus, melons, peaches, and plums. 

angel


The Standard Fruitchouli Perfume

Flowerbomb By Viktor & Rolf For Women – EDP Spray 1 oz– It’s very well known and super popular, but there is plenty of reason to love this patchouli scent. Personally, that opening act is among my favorites in mainstream ladies’ fragrances.

Flowerbomb mixes ingredients of bergamot, rose, jasmine, and tea. It is clean, delicious, and appropriate for women of a wide range of age groups or personal styles.

Flowerbomb opens up with its great tea note, which is one of the highlights of this fragrance. It is paired with a light but somewhat sharp bergamot citrus note. Next, comes the flower part of the ‘bomb’.

Orchid, jasmine, rose, freesia, among others. It’s a beautiful array, with a lively freshness provided by the top notes. It really is just an amazing example of the fruit-chouli sort of perfume and deserves a spot here.

Finally, you get to the patchouli, which is the star of the show and brings it together. Flowerbomb brings the power and performance, with an awesome aroma.


Legend EDP by Mont Blanc

Montblanc’s Legend line of fragrances have been monstrously successful over the past decade-plus and it still keeps cranking out flanker colognes to the original EDT. The latest, is Legend Eau de Parfum, which is going to stick much closer to the original release than something like Night. I received a sample of this with an order a few months back, so, I’ve of course tested it out. How does it smell? When should it be worn? Is it really worth a try?


What does Legend Eau de Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: violet leaf, leather, jasmine, moss, bergamot, woods

Click here to try: MONTBLANC Legend eau de parfum 3.3 fl oz, 3.3 fl. oz.


My Full Review

Violet leaf is the focus of Legend EDP from the get go. It is joined by a nice amount of citrus from the bergamot, which will dissipate pretty quickly, and leather. The leather and violet leaf are going to be the main distinctions from Legend EDT.

It’s got a fresh opening act, with a greenish aroma coming from the base, which is mostly from the ‘oakmoss’ aroma they use nowadays. Clean, but I notice that the leather never really comes through all that heavy in the mix. I mean, it’s there but doesn’t take over on my skin.

After a little while, the bergamot will fade out. I know there is jasmine in this blend, but I don’t pick it out as a separate aroma. What continues is violet leaf, woods, moss, and leather. That’s basically what I get for the rest of the way.

It feels flat and like there’s nothing there to give it much of a personality of its own. A mossy violet leaf with leather, sitting on top of wood. It doesn’t smell bad, by any means, just there isn’t all that much going on here.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, I don’t find the EDP version of Legend to be much better, if at all than the original. It’s not a powerful projecting scent and is actually quite moderate. I don’t think that it really hits a higher peak with its strength versus the EDT, but may be steadier throughout the wear.

The longevity is better. It’s still not a beast, but I’ve gotten 6.5-8 hours of wear from Legend EDP during testing. Amazing? No, but better than the original, in terms of how long it will stick around on my skin.

The strength of the EDP is its versatility. Like the original, it’s a jack of all trades fragrance, which can be worn by all ages without issue.

Beyond that, it can venture into a variety of climates, pretty easily. I’d still stay away from the heat in the summer, but it’s fine in other conditions.

This can be worn casually, to work, to school, out on the town for an evening. Not going to be a nightclub kind of cologne, but it is a very versatile scent.


Overall Impressions of Legend EDP

Overall, do I like Legend eau de parfum? Not particularly. I don’t hate the way it smells or anything, it’s just kind of boring. I still like the original more so than this one, and I’m not even a person who enjoyed that a lot. Montblanc can be pretty hit or miss, in my opinion.

It feels flat and uninspired. I like aspects of it, but Legend EDP doesn’t stand out in anyway. The violet leaf note, doesn’t add anything and it’s probably the worst aspect of the scent…despite it being a focus.

The leather is a nice touch, but it isn’t strong enough to give EDP a new direction. It’s like a violet leaf heavy version of the original, with some more greenish aromas, and it doesn’t manage to surpass it.

Should you buy it? Maybe if you’re a big fan of the original and want a longer lasting option. You might be able to get it for cheap, at some point, but I wouldn’t spend money on a full bottle.

Pure XS Night by Paco Rabanne

Pure XS Night is the flanker fragrance to the original Pure XS, which I don’t think ever achieved all that much popularity, but was a very nice fragrance. I was interested in trying this one out, since I completely missed Night when it was released back in 2019. I bought a sample of this, as part of a large lot of other men’s colognes. How does Pure XS Night Smell? When should it be worn? Is it worth a try?


What does Pure XS Night Smell Like?

Notes include: ginseng, caramel, ginger, cacao, vanilla, cinnamon, myrrh 


My Full Review

Before we get into my review, let’s see how Paco Rabanne describes it: To have it all. In excess. Devastatingly fascinating. Girls fall under his spell. Now’s the time to lighten up, play with fire. Lose control. An untamed Oriental, hot and fresh. Excess in its purest state.

Bam! That ginseng and ginger blend up top really hits hard. It actually reminds me of the ginger ale drink Canada Dry Bold, with that blast of ginger. Along with those two notes, there is also a bit of cinnamon floating around, so expect a warm/spicy opening act.

After 10 minutes of so Pure XS Night will start its turn toward becoming a sweeter cologne. Caramel and vanilla really start to come through, with a bit of raw cacao. I reminded of the caramel note in The Most Wanted, but I think that Azzaro fragrance is better than this.

For a while it will morph from a spicy/sweet blend, into something that is more of a sweet fragrance, as a whole. Freshness sits underneath that sweetness and it has a balsamic finish from the myrrh in the base.

I get mostly caramel and myrrh in the final phase, but the vanilla does blend with its counterpart a lot. 


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here is loud, but not overwhelming. Well, maybe the first few minutes can be a bit much, but once the spice settles Night is a strong fragrance and not monstrous. You definitely gets your money’s worth, though.

The longevity is also very good. Somewhere in the 8-9 hour range, on the skin. Plus, a super long time on fabric, well into the double digit hour range.

The performance is much better than I got with the original Pure XS, which had a great smell, but pretty middling longevity and sillage.

Seasonally, autumn and winter only. This isn’t a warm weather fragrance. Beyond that, you won’t get much use out of this, aside from the nightlife. Maybe on a cold day, you could wear this casually, but it’s not one for business attire.

The sweetness and synthetic kind of vibe, make Pure XS Night one for the younger crowd. Teenagers through twenties should love this stuff. It’s attractive, bold, and a party/night club beast. Not the most versatile cologne, but it has its place.


Overall Impressions of Pure XS Night

Overall, do I like Pure XS Night? I do. As far as deciding between it or the original Pure XS, I think that I still prefer how that one smells versus this newer version. However, this has much better performance and still is very attractive and worthwhile.

The opening ginger, ginseng, and cinnamon is indeed quite bold and may be off-putting for some people, but once it settles; the aroma develops very well.

I like the caramel/vanilla/cacao sweetness and the myrrh is always a nice touch and a bit part of the DNA of Pure XS. The biggest weakness (if you want to call it that), is the rather narrow use case for Night. 

You’re going to have to be in the market for a nightlife fragrance, something along the lines of Ultra Male or 212 VIP. But, within that space this is a cologne that is one to try out.