Perfume Reviews

Vanilla | 28 by Kayali

by

Vanilla 28 is one of the more sought after of the Kayali fragrances from Huda Beauty. People love a good vanilla scent, but does this one actually fit the bill? How does 28 smell? How long does it last? Is it worth a try?

What does Vanilla 28 Smell Like?

Notes include: vanilla orchid, tonka bean, brown sugar, amber woods, musk

Click here to try: Vanilla 28 by Kayali

My Full Review

Vanilla 28 starts off fully in its sweetness. The tonka bean and brown sugar really jump out to me during this stage of the wear. Obviously, the vanilla orchid is going to be in play throughout, but this one favors those other two notes, early on.

Yet, this perfume doesn’t ever get too sickening or child-like with its sweetness. The tonka bean will subside some, the vanilla comes on more, and this does develop a bit of muskiness to it.

It’s mostly vanilla and brown sugar for a good portion of its life. The brown sugar will fade, musk joins that vanilla and the remaining tonka bean in the spotlight.

What is interesting is the synthetic amberwood note, that many perfume have nowadays. It helps this, along with that musk, from becoming a heavy or cloying mess. It has a certain cleanliness and freshness, not getting bogged down by the sweet trio.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here, isn’t too massive. You get a good 30 minutes or so of some nice power and the perfume creating a cloud around you. After that, it’s pretty light to middle of the road. Not completely weak, just not something to blow out a room.

On my skin, it’ll go for somewhere in the 5-6 hour range. Again, not all that amazing, but still okay. Performance isn’t this scent’s strength.

Seasonally, this is sugary and warm, and best in the autumn or winter months. If you live in an area with a colder springtime, you’ll get plenty of use. Skip the warmer temperatures and heat, though.

Within that timeframe, this one works in a variety of situations. It is sweet, while still enjoying a wide appeal among different ages.

Now, it’s not a formal type of perfume or anything, but Vanilla 28 works in a variety of situations on its own. And probably many more, when used as a layered fragrance.

Overall Impressions of Vanilla 28

Overall, do I like this perfume? Yes, I think it is one of the best of the Kayali lineup thus far. As a vanilla, I prefer it to what you get with the less focused Utopia from this brand.

Personally, I like the brown sugar note. Yes, it can be too sweet or not sophisticated enough for some, but I think it works well in here. It plays a rather large role, so if that’s not your thing, you might want to pass.

The performance is middle of the road. If you’re using this as a standalone fragrance and not really blending it with others, just be advised. It wasn’t completely terrible, but Vanilla 28 isn’t a long-lasting powerhouse.

While I do like the way this one smells, the price point is a bit of a reach for what you’re getting. You’re paying a bit of a premium versus what you’re getting on its own.

It’s simple and doesn’t have great performance, which can be a deciding factor if you’re in the market for something like a signature daily wear.

But, if you know all of that in advance and still want to give this one a try, I’d say it’s worth it.

Mod Vanilla EDP by Ariana Grande

by

Mod Vanilla is one of the two ‘Mod’ offerings (along with Blush), that was released at the tail end of 2022. I got a hold of each of them in a travel sprayer size in order to test each out and see how they rate versus other perfumes in the catalog. How does Mod Vanilla smell? How long does it last? Is it worth a try?

Mod Vanilla Overview

Notes include: pink freesia, dark plum, vanilla, musk, praline, cocoa butter, orris butter, jasmine

Click here to try: Mod Vanilla

mod vanilla review

My Full Review

Mod Vanilla opens up with a plethora of lighter notes, that will eventually fade to the very back of the line, but aren’t too overpowering even upon first spraying.

The pink freesia is already noticeable along with some fresh musks. Now, the musk will be noticeable throughout, but I don’t find Mod to be too dependent on that note but it is the strongest of the three top notes.

Along with those two, is a very light plum. Adding an additional tart quality, to the already quite sweet aroma.

Also from the very beginning, you are going to already be picking up on some of the main attractions. Vanilla, obviously. There is also praline and cocoa butter. The praline is going to become a big facet of how this one smells.

That initial phase wears off, as the freesia and plum go extremely light in the composition. That praline at this point, reminds me of the one in Angels’ Share, but it is joined by a general sweet creamy and somewhat powdery blend.

The orris will start to become more involved, I don’t personally get any jasmine on my skin. Still a light powdery aspect, even when the orris butter is at its peak.

The sweetness, musk, and whatnot does cause Mod Vanilla to have a similar smell to Cloud. It’s not exactly the same or anything, but the overlap is hard to ignore.

The final dry down has less of the praline and more of the vanilla note. It’s a musky vanilla, with some sugary sweetness, and some warm powdery highlights.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this actually does have a good amount of power in those first two hours of wear. I was kind of surprised with how well this projects and leaves a scent trail in your wake. Not super strong, but well above average.

After those two hours, it sits closer to the skin, but it didn’t turn into a skin scent until 4-5 hours in for me. Mod Vanilla didn’t just disappear after a bold start.

The longevity was actually really good in comparison to other Ariana fragrances. This goes for over 8 hours on my skin. Maybe between 8.5-9, is when it finally becomes undetectable. Better than how Cloud worked for me.

Seasonally, I’d lean towards wearing this in the cold of winter. However, it’d be fine anytime it’s moderate outside. Just stay away from high heat and humidity and this one will have no problem.

It is a sugary sweet perfume, so don’t expect something formal or to wear to the office. It skews younger, but some older women would still enjoy this. It has a delicious gourmand sort of aroma, fun, but not sexy or seductive. Casual and cozy.

Overall Impressions of Mod Vanilla

Overall, do I like Mod Vanilla? It’s a pretty good release, but still not my favorite Ariana Grande perfume or coming close to the top of the list. I wasn’t a big fan of Cloud, as of now, I think Mod Vanilla is a bit better than that…just not far and away superior.

Mod Vanilla is better than Mod Blush, as part of this series, though.

If you already like and have Cloud, you probably won’t need to get this one. Different scents, ultimately, but they cover much of the same ground.

I like how this one starts off and I like when the vanilla gets going in full. It does have a lot of that Cloud like DNA, but that vanilla goes a lot harder in this perfume. It’s not super original versus other scents that Ariana Grande has put out. God is a Woman was better in this regard.

The performance was probably the greatest part of this fragrance for me. It lasts and projects quite well.

If you’re a fan of the other Ariana perfumes, you’ll almost certainly enjoy this one. But, if the others haven’t been your style, it’s pretty safe to skip Mod Vanilla.

No.5 EDP by Chanel

by

No. 5 is probably the most famous fragrance on the planet. The original parfum dates back to 1922, but today I am going to review the eau de parfum which was released in 1986. This is the more affordable of the two and probably the best selling, at this point. How does it smell? How long does it last? Is it actually worth a try?

Chanel No. 5 EDP Overview

Notes include: aldehydes, iris, ylang-ylang, peach, neroli, bergamot, sandalwood, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, vanilla, oakmoss, patchouli

Click here to try: No. 5 EDP from Chanel

My Full Review

The opening of the EDP version blasts you with the cold aldehydes found in Ernest Beaux’s original formulation. That synthetic smell was designed to capture his memories of the frozen sea air of his youth. Cold air/ozone, that’s the only way I can describe it.

With that you get a bright use of a bergamot and peach note, along with a spiced neroli, giving the aroma a general fuzziness early on. Cold, dry, fresh, spicy, and floral. The sandalwood is already coming through.

1986 EDP Ad with Original Bottle

So, the original is infused with a lot of jasmine from Grasse, and I do get plenty of jasmine early on in the wear. But, it doesn’t seem to the same strength. I mean, I am going off memory of what the Parfum smells like, but this doesn’t have the same degree of iris and jasmine as I remember it…could be wrong.

Anyway, the jasmine that is there is joined by the ylang-ylang which presents itself powerfully in this mix. Sort of reminds me of Gabrielle, at times, since they have so much floral overlap. But, the rest of the blend is distinct.

That original blast of the bergamot, neroli, and peach are greatly reduced moving into the next phase. The aldehydic floral really comes out. Soapy, sort of powdery at this point, and dry.

Really, the oakmoss is there, but man there’s a period where this fragrance is a super sandalwood on my skin.

From there, it’s basically a soapy floral I can get some of the rose, jasmine, and remaining ylang-ylang. But, the iris does pick up and adds to the powdery smell. Sandalwood floral with some of the same aldehydes. Overall, it feels like a warmer perfume at this point.

chanel parfum ad

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, EDP is strong early and can leave a nice scent trail for about 2 hours or so. It’s not overwhelming, unless you go crazy with the sprays. For most of the wear, it’ll be above average and detectable while sitting much closer to the skin.

On me, I get about 8 hours of wear with No. 5 Eau de Parfum. Not a crazy long-lasting perfume from Chanel, but it serves most purposes well enough.

1978

Seasonally, this is probably best in autumn or springtime. The mild climate and being away from the extremes on either end of the temperature spectrum, is where No.5 fits in. That being said, I’d rather wear this in winter versus the height of summer, if I had to.

This is more of a mature fragrance. Though, for me it’s less of an age issue versus fitting in with your own style. It is a classic scent, it’s different from much of what is offered nowadays, and that makes it feel anachronistic to some.

It can still be worn by younger women or older. It can be a daily signature or something that you put on for special occasions. It’s attractive, but I’ve personally never particularly found it to be sexy.

It’s nice and comfortable and can fit in while dressed up or even in a more casual situation.

Overall Impressions of Chanel No.5 EDP

Overall, do I like this version? I do. I’ve got to try the Parfum again, but I think that one is just better than this, in totality. Greater concentration and sort of different in the formulation. Though, I’m kind of still more of a fan of Shalimar, myself.

However, I really appreciate the timeless qualities of the essential No. 5 structure. Some people say it smells old or ‘old lady-ish’. I mean, it’s the quintessential modern perfume, and over 100 years old at this point. Like, of course, it’s not going to be cutting edge…but it can still be an absolute killer scent.

Funny enough, it was at the time thought and created to be a very sexy and liberating perfume.

1960

The floral aspects here are great, when paired with the aldehydes. Fresh and more intense up top, with a clean soapiness in the finish. Drier with a cold coziness. Then, warmer into the finish.  Very well put together with layers, that can take time to fully get into.

I really like the sandalwood phase, when the iris and jasmine are in balance. That’s really a quality aroma.

Is this a fragrance for everyone? Probably not. It is one that should be tried out by everyone. Not just once, either. Come back to it, let it develop, and see if it draws you in.

Not Your Baby by Phlur

by

Phlur’s Not Your Baby is another fragrance that I received as a part of the brand’s discovery set of samples. This was one that I was completely unfamiliar with prior to testing it out for the site. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

What does Not Your Baby Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, cardamom, violet, mimosa, vanilla, sandalwood, and tonka bean

Click here to try: Not Your Baby

My Full Review

Here’s how it’s described: Provocative, playful, and anything but innocent, Not Your Baby is an undeniably sexy, intriguing, and addictive spicy floral.

There’s a very light bergamot sparkle sitting on top of a ton of cardamom, here at the start. When I saw that this was a powdery cardamom scent, I thought that this would be the female version of La Nuit.

Nope, that’s a way better scent than this. Though, I kind of like the opening here and the rest isn’t too bad. Cardamom, some of the powdery violet, and sweetness from vanilla/tonka bean. Fresh spice, with some decent sweet powdery facets.

That bergamot gives it a nice spritz of juiciness, as this transitions into its more floral phase.

But, this one gets sweeter. I do have to admit, violet is one of my least favorite floral notes. Thankfully, it’s not dominant and you get more of the mimosa (which is fine enough).

The powder aspect of this will get stronger and the sweeter milky side of things, diminishes, but never really goes away.

Some may actually prefer this part of the wear, depending on how you feel about that warm spice of cardamom. It can be somewhat weird paired with certain sweeter notes.

The final dry down is also a highlight for me. The tonka bean actually overtakes the vanilla milk, with mimosa still the lead floral, and an attractive sandalwood base. It’s a sweetish fresh and powdery floral scent.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here isn’t anything crazy. It’s got some decent projection early on, but that’s short lived and this is going to be a softer scent for the rest of the wear. 1-4 feet for the duration. Just know you’re not getting a sillage bomb.

The longevity is okay. 6-6.5 hours, on my skin. I’d probably want more out of my perfume, at this price point, but it’s not the worst I’ve come across either.

Seasonally, this one works best in the spring and can extend into summer and autumn. I’d pick cooler days in the summer and not be out in the blistering heat with it. Not Your Baby does have freshness, so, it won’t be a complete mess once it’s warm out.

This is more of a daily wear type of perfume. It’s clean, youngish, floral. Nothing too fancy, not sexy, but can be a nice enough powdery type of scent. Casual, school, work, etc. Not a nightlife fragrance.

Overall Impressions of Not Your Baby

Overall, do I like this perfume? It’s actually pretty good at times, just uneven with how it comes across during its development. I’m never completely in love with what I’m smelling, but it isn’t terrible.

I’m glad the violet isn’t overpowering, just adds a fresh quality to the blend. The cardamom start, is intriguing to me. The next phase is meh. But, I like the back half of the middle and final dry down.

The price is what makes me lean towards saying no to this. I mean, you can also buy the sample set to see which you like, but a full bottle? Not unless you’re sure.

The performance isn’t great. It sticks around for a passable length of time, but the sillage is pretty darn light.

It’s all average to slightly above average for the most part. Nothing spectacular, but I don’t hate Not Your Baby, either.

Cherry Smoke by Tom Ford

by

Cherry Smoke is one of the latest offerings from Tom Ford, along with, Electric Cherry. Both of which are piggy backing off of the massive success of Lost Cherry. This one was released in 2022.

Now, this hasn’t nearly gotten the fanfare of their initial cherry perfume foray, but does that make Smoke not as good of an option to wear?

I bought two samples of Smoke only, since I couldn’t yet find Electric, and have been testing this perfume out. How does it smell? When should it be worn? Is it worth a try?

Cherry Smoke Perfume Overview

Notes include: dark cherry, osmanthus, cyproil India, saffron

Click here to try: Cherry Smoke from Sephora

My Full Review

Here’s how Tom Ford describes it: AN EXPERIENCED HEDONIST, CHERRY SMOKE PLAYS WITH FIRE, BURSTING WITH THE SCENT OF DARK CHERRY, IGNITED BY SEDUCTIVE OSMANTHUS AND SMOLDERING, SMOKED WOODS. 

Cherry Smoke kicks off with one of the familiar cherry notes, found in Lost Cherry. The black cherry without the booziness. That cherry is matched with the osmanthus accord and saffron.

The osmanthus, according to the TF website, has facets of: leather, olive, and apricot aromas. The apricot aspect is noticeable upon the initial spray, but will fade along with the cherry note.

Yes, the cherry in Cherry Smoke, is not actually the main attraction. It is up top and sticks around, but it will lurk more in the background.

The saffron and osmanthus accord do give off a combined leathery aroma, with a warmth and slight smokiness from the base. Cyproil India and more of a generic woodiness provide that part for us. It sort of comes across like an oud note, but I don’t think it actually is.

Honestly, this one isn’t a super cherry nor super smoky scent. It has some of each, especially early, but not to the extent you’d expect based on the name.

Once the cherry has stepped back, that olive and cyproil become noticeable, and Cherry Smoke has a somewhat bitter aspect to it. Still a leathery freshness, but woodsy, dark, and a touch bitter. Again, that cherry sweetness is still a part of the show.

The final dry down is less leathery and geared more toward the woody notes. Kind of a suede-like finish, but a full expression of that osmanthus accord and remaining cherry.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This is a perfume that doesn’t really project all that far nor does it seem heavy. It’s warmth and the smokiness that it does have, makes it feel like it has more ‘weight’ to it than it actually does.

Early the sprays are noticeable probably up to 7-ish feet or so. After that, it’s going to come into the 1-3 foot range. That’s kind of how it was for me with Lost Chery too, but this one to a greater extent.

On my skin, this will go 6.5-7 hours. Again, those last few hours are very weak, but still somewhat detectable. It is definitely there, though.

Seasonally, I’ve obviously been testing this out in winter. But, it’s not too cold right now, which has given me a few chances in the chilly to moderate temperatures. That’s probably the right zone for this one.

Autumn through mid-spring, depending on where you live. Summer it’s a hard pass.

I think that Cherry Smoke leans more masculine, but is still very unisex overall. The versatility, is probably its greatest strength. Pretty much anyone can wear it, in most situations, and it can even extend into the nightlife.

Overall Impressions of Cherry Smoke

Overall, do I like this fragrance? I certainly like aspects of it, but during these first tests, I was never completely blown away by Cherry Smoke. It’s still good.

As of now, I’m not really sold on it being better than Lost Cherry. That could change and I’ll update, if that’s the case. I do still give an edge to the original, in totality.

The opening cherry with the saffron and apricot aroma of the osmanthus is very nice. I enjoyed that a lot. That olive aroma and cyproil are also interesting in their own way.

On the whole, it never hits an elite level for me. I was excited to give this a try, but it’s a mild disappointment, that could have been classic.

Update: Yeah, coming back to this one, it’s nothing that great. It’s likeable at times, but really never brings it all together into something that’s a must have scent.

The performance is mediocre for what you’re paying. It doesn’t need to be an absolute bomb, but it also doesn’t really give me enough in terms of power or length of time.

Obviously, the price is a limiting factor for who is going to buy this scent. I don’t think this is worth the reach for most people. Some fraction are going to love this one, but most will probably just like it.

There’s not a lot of value here, at end of the price range that Tom Ford perfumes occupy. It’s worth trying to see, where you fall on this one, before shelling out hundreds of dollars.