Cologne Reviews

Ultra Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

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In today’s post, I am going to be taking a closer look at a cologne by Jean Paul Gaultier called, Ultra Male. This is a flanker fragrance to the now classic, Le Male. Ultra Male was released in 2015 and occupies a similar bottle to the original JPG scent. What does it smell like? How does it perform? When should it be worn? Is it better than Le Male? Please continue reading below for my impressions after a few wears.

Notes include: vanilla, pear, amber, woods, cinnamon, cumin, sage, lavender, mint

Click here to try: Jean Paul Gaultier Ultra Male for Men Intense Spray, Eau de Toilette, 4.2 Ounce

What does Ultra Male by JPG Smell Like?

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Ultra Male is a meeting of the pear, vanilla, cinnamon, mint, and citrus notes that produces a candy-like sweetness that is akin to bubble gum. Now, this may not sound appealing for some folks but it quickly settles on my skin into something that is warm and smooth, and a scent that I find very appealing.

The pear note is the main attraction early on. Mint and cinnamon surround it and provide the composition with a definite spiciness. Ultra Male is intense straight out of the bottle, with a very captivating aroma.

Next up, the lavender and vanilla begin to move in. Lavender and pear share the spotlight, with an increasingly strong vanilla coming in more later.

The most noticeable difference between this and the famous, Le Male, is the complete lack of that powdery aroma that was so prevalent in that JPG cologne.

While there is a lot of overlap between these two scents, the strength of each note is different, and the inclusion of the pear makes Ultra Male a standalone scent from its progenitor.

I’m just going to say it right now, I am enjoying Ultra Male more than Le Male, which I also liked a lot.

During the dry down, it turns into a vanilla, lavender, and amber laden fragrance on my skin. It at times, reminds me of a more youthful and sweeter Luna Rossa Sport.

Not saying its the same, but the lavender and vanilla combo, are obviously going to deliver at least somewhat similar results.

Ultra Male is a super fresh and sweet kind of scent that is going to be a nice addition to any night life fragrance collection.

There is a slight spiciness provided by the cinnamon note which prevents the cologne from become a complete mess and that is further bolstered by the mint note, which seems to be more in the background than it was in Le Male.

Ultra Male sort of falls into the same category as a fragrance like, 1 Million, does. Smooth, candy-like sweetness, with enough staying power to be a night club favorite.

Sillage, Longevity, Versatility

Projection wise, I would rate it as a very strong starter that fades into something much more moderate. While it is in the same ‘family’, so to speak as 1 Million, it doesn’t have the same loud and bold projection.

It certainly isn’t weak and with enough sprays it is capable of overpowering, but with my 1-3 spray tests, Ultra Male was perfectly tolerable.

Update: with further wear, once I got a full bottle, this does project itself a lot more than you can tell. People will notice, so, go light when inside enclosed areas. It’s actually kind of massive with how it projects. I do have a bottle of the initial release, so, I don’t know if Ultra got weakened over the years.

It does have great longevity on my skin, 9-ish hours, maybe a little longer on some wears (depending on the weather or other environmental circumstances). It’s pretty excellent in that regard.

Update: I do get double digit hours of wear, fairly regularly with Ultra Male. It does depend greatly on the climate, see below.

Cold weather scent. Like Le Male, Ultra Male would turn to crap in the heat, so if your climate is warm year round, this probably isn’t the best bet.

On the other hand, if you plan on wearing it at night, I have done so effectively when the temperature was in the mid-70s Fahrenheit but it thrives in the cold.

Really, I would not wear this at all when it is hot out. It becomes a pretty big mess, so if you’re going to have this, also have a spring/summer scent to wear. In the cold, it is at its peak and can be a great wear.

You could wear this as a daytime scent, as it isn’t too loud (with light sprays), but I love it for nights out and party-type atmospheres. It’s an attractive, almost unisex kind of fragrance, with a sweet sexiness that women seem to enjoy.

I’ve mostly been wearing this on winter evenings out, just casually from time to time, and around the house. I’m not sure that I’d try to make this a daily wear. Especially for guys, who work in a professional setting. That’s not what this cologne does.

Ultra Male can come across as very sweet and has a youthful party vibe. I am older than the target demo of this cologne and like it a lot. Yet, I find myself not always wanting to indulge in it, with its candy-like aroma.

Overall Impressions of Ultra Male

Overall, would I recommend Ultra Male as a buy? Yes, provided you like this kind of scent. Some guys don’t like the sweets and if that’s you, pass on this cologne.

Otherwise, I find this to be a fun wear, and prefer it to the original Le Male…it just strikes me as better on the whole.  This is another great entry from Jean Paul Gaultier.

The performance is great and the smell is really nice. It can come across as unisex, at times, but for the nightlife it’s a great pick up. The uses for this can be limited, outside of that. So, one will need to assess exactly what you’re wanting it for.

Update: The longer that I’ve had this, the less I wear it. The pear note doesn’t really do it for me anymore and it’s super sweet/spicy mix, isn’t something that I always want to wear. It’s still something for younger guys to wear and not a fragrance that’s going to be a daily wear for most people.

I definitely don’t dislike it, but it’s more something that I wear on occasion. Ultra Male is still one of the better releases in the series, which has produced a lot of just ‘okay’ colognes over the years.

The One Luminous Night by D&G

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The One is a series of fragrances that has spun of a bunch of flankers, including the ‘Night’ special editions. Luminous Night released in 2021, is one that has gotten a lot of attention out of those three, to the point where finding a bottle is an expensive proposition. Is it actually worth it? How does it smell? Does it last long?

What does The One Luminous Night Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, basil, black pepper, dates, amber, incense, sage, geranium, sandalwood

luminous night review

My Full Review

Here’s how D&G describes it: Inspired by the captivating contrast between the deep blue night sky and the blazing gold stars set within it, The One Luminous Night conjures the magic and splendour of a star-studded Arabian night.

When I first saw the notes, bottle, and concept of The One Luminous Night I was excited to try it. The blue bottle looks great.

However, since it was a limited edition and not sold in the US, I kind of forgot about it for a while.

Forgot to the point that bottles became scarce, and I had to secure a decant of it for testing. Knowing that, I would probably plop down the near $200 for a bottle off of eBay if I loved the fragrance.

Upon spraying, I do get the contrast between cool and the warm notes. The early part of this scent is fresh with the sweetness of the dates lurking underneath.

Sage and basil are the stronger of the spicy notes to be. I don’t get all that much black pepper and only a faint peak of the geranium note. The pepper is mostly around for the first 15 minutes, then is pretty much gone.

It is interesting, the style here reminds me of one of the L’Homme Ideal flankers, even while they don’t smell the same. Smokiness, warmth, spice, with a nice fruit providing a sweet heart.

The initial freshness will subside. Sage sticks around, but it will fall down the chain of importance.

Dates, amber, incense, and wood. Expect that to be the main event for basically the rest of the wear. The dates are nice, more of a dried fruit aroma, than anything hyper-sweet or juicy.

Slightly smoky dates sitting in a pool of amber is how I would describe this one. In the middle act, the geranium while still not heavy, does pick up somewhat. Once that pepper is out of the way, I can get more of it.

Update: Now that I have a full sized bottle of Luminous Night, I’ve noticed that it does present somewhat differently, on any given wear. Sometimes, the sage is massive. Other times, this is much more of the warm and sweet aroma led by the date note. When the sage is super heavy, I enjoy this less.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this isn’t a powerhouse. Actually pretty moderate, at its height and then more intimate, without being a complete skin scent. The opening can indeed pack a punch, however. For me, that is a pretty short-lived experience.

The projection runs about 2-4 feet off of the skin for much of the wear. I do notice it on me throughout, just not a complete monster.

It lasts somewhere in the 7-8 hour range. Again, it’s not a strong fragrance, but it does stick around. It’s one of the better The One fragrances, in terms of performance. Which, isn’t one of the series’ strong suits.

Seasonally, this is best in autumn and winter. But, as a nighttime fragrance, if it isn’t too hot and sticky out…you can wear it whenever. Definitely avoid wearing Luminous Night, during the day in spring and summer, especially. Can be a pretty cloying cologne, in that situation.

It’s very attractive and well put together. Semi formal or even formal social situations would be fine. It can absolutely be worn dressed up, while still having its sexy side as a date night go to.

But, that being said, I do prefer this as more of a casual or ‘going out’ nighttime fragrance. The sweetness and warmth feels more in line with that versus being a pure formal play.

Overall Impressions of Luminous Night

Overall, do I like Luminous Night? I do enjoy it. I think that is smells very good, but it isn’t a total love for me. I don’t know if I’m going to get a full bottle for myself (I might still), since that would run me $200 or so.

Update: I did get a bottle, once I found one for around $100. Still sort of feel like I overpaid, but wasn’t too terrible of a deal.

That being the case, it is one of the best The One releases. Better performing than the EDT, even if I enjoy the smell of that a bit more. Plus, I do have a full EDP bottle too.

I actually really like that opening act, with its burst of freshness to contrast against the warmth of the rest of the wear. Basil, pepper, sage, and geranium with a bright bergamot is great. The date note is also very attractive.

I really like everything about this release. I’m just not floored by it. When I compare it to another expensive release I purchased a full bottle of, Noir Extreme, it just doesn’t hit me on the same level.

Update: That sage note, can be somewhat annoying depending on how it shows up on any given day. Sometimes, it just smells overwhelming versus the date and even other spicier ingredients.

I recommend it. If this were a more available scent, I’d probably tell everyone that it’s one to pick up. At $200? Maybe not for everyone. But, it also is a safe blind buy based on the smell and performance alone.

Scarcity made this one go from a sure thing, to something you may want to track down decants of before committing to the entire thing.

Mandorlo Di Sicilia by Acqua Di Parma

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I’m still working my way through writing a ton of reviews and other posts. I think that I have about 100+ more in the queue, so stayed tuned on that front. Today’s entry is another one from Acqua di Parma, Mandorlo di Sicilia, and perfume for both men and women which came out in 1999. What does this fragrance smell like? How does it perform? Continue reading below for my full review.

What does Mandorlo di Sicilia Smell Like?

Notes include: almond, white musk, vanilla, orange, bergamot, anise

Click here to try: Acqua Di Parma Blue Mediterraneo Mandorlo Di Sicilia Eau de Toilette Spray, 2.5 Ounce

My Full Review

The opening of Mandorlo di Sicilia reminds me a lot of root beer. Not the drink really, but the little candies that they make of that flavor, in the shape of glass bottles. It’s sweet, smooth, and has the sensation of fizziness. Is it kind of odd for a fragrance? I guess, but the smell is actually really good.

It’s really a mixture of almond, vanilla, and orange. That’s the main trinity that I pick up from the opening few minutes of the scent. It is later joined by the star anise note. Mandorlo di Sicilia is very well blended and each note is super fresh.

Peach is there too. However, the note doesn’t stand out too often on my skin. Most of the time, it’ll just be a part of the overall feeling of sweetness with the fragrance.

The fragrance takes on a powdery quality but I don’t think that it goes as far as some others. I guess, as a unisex scent, Acqua di Parma wanted to not let it go too far into the feminine category. I definitely feel that they accomplished that task, as this perfume does have a universal appeal to it.

As it dries down, I get mostly the vanilla note with a powdered sugary sweetness, enveloping the points which I sprayed. The almond note is still present and pleasant.

This is quite a light and airy fragrance, that I just catch whiffs of throughout the wear. At times, I forget that I even have it on, and then I notice the wonderful scent of Mandorlo di Sicilia.

It’s a nice and refreshing wear to have on during the day. Yes, sometimes the sweetness can be annoying, but overall I think it’s a fantastic wear. It goes through periods of being fizzy, creamy, and powdery which is an interesting bit of development.

Sillage, How Long does it Last, Versatility

Projection wise, again, it’s a light fragrance. Though, it isn’t weak in my mind. It starts off moderate, but hangs around during the day. Again, it’s a perfume that will hit you, even after you thought it had disappeared or weakened.

The actual reach of Mandorlo is pretty good, it’s just not going to weigh down on the wearer with a thick cloud.

Longevity is better than some of the other Acqua di Parma fragrances I’ve worn. It’s not a beast by any means, however, I get 6-7 hours out of this one. Not a monster, but for what this scent is, it feels like plenty long for almost any scenario.

This is a truly unisex type of fragrance and feels more casual. That being said, it would have no problem being worn at the office or even for romantic wear. It’s not a sexy scent but it is kind of beautiful.

It can fit in pretty much anywhere during the daytime. You might want another option for evenings, but this could probably work decently in the nightlife.

Seasonally, it has enough of the citrus aroma and is light enough for summer. However, it can definitely fit in year round, and not be out of place. To me, it is best in moderate temperatures, but it isn’t severely limited outside of that.

This is one of the Acqua di Parma fragrances that can cover a lot of ground and be a signature scent outside of just winter or summer, like many of the other offerings.

Overall Impressions of Mandorlo di Sicilia

Overall, would I recommend Mandorlo di Sicilia? Yes, I enjoy it quite a bit. I think that it is one of the best fragrances from Acqua di Parma. BUT, it is not for everyone.

If you’re someone who doesn’t like that root beer kind of smell or vanilla or powdery scents, you aren’t likely to appreciate this. If that description fits you, then, definitely check it out.

This one is a bit different from the usual use of citrus. I really like its unique smell and versatility. That opening fizziness and the later powdery sweetness, is a great little combination.

The performance is fairly middle of the road, but kind of sneaky with the way it hangs around. You’ll think that it’s gone, and then, catch the aroma just off of the skin. Mandorla di Sicilia does capture that near perfect unisex balance, so that anyone can truly enjoy the perfume.

212 Men Aqua by Carolina Herrera

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I recently came across a small box of sample fragrances, that I purchased at this time last year, and simply forgot about. One of the scents in that box, was 212 Men Aqua, which apparently was a 2017 limited edition version of the 212 Men scent. Now, I’m going to do my review of this one, but I cannot really compare it to the original because its been a solid 4-5 years since I’ve actually worn it. How does 212 Aqua perform? Is it worth finding a bottle of?

What does 212 Men Aqua Smell Like?

Notes include: grapefruit, ginger, bergamot, sea water, ambroxan, sandalwood, patchouli, cardamom, rosewood

Click here to try: CAROLINA HERRERA 212 Men Aqua Limited Edition, 3.4 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

212 Aqua kicks off with a very fresh blend of citrus and ginger. The citrus is sharp and clean, with underlying light woody notes sitting at the base of the aroma. That’s mostly what I get for the first 5-10 minutes of the wear.

Next, the aquatic notes start to come into play. The sea water vibe, really gets a lot of its power from the ambroxan note. At this point, it does smell a bit like Light Blue Eau Intense, but without a heavy calone ingredient.

Grapefruit, sea water, woods, and an amber note are the overlap between these colognes. So, you could also say it has a resemblance to Light Blue Homme, as well. Rosewood, citrus, and spice.

As it dries down further, I do get more of an aquatic smell. It’s not a heavy salty sea water or seaweed ingredient, but more of that ubiquitous ‘aqua’ smell that gets put into so many fragrances. It’s still a citrus fragrance, but gardenia and woody notes come into their own.

The sandalwood and rosewood here, make for a dry fresh aroma, that sits underneath the main aquatic citrus accord. 212 Men Aqua is refreshing and has a sporty kind of personality. Not at all a heavy feeling fragrance, rather, one which hangs in the air.

Ultimately, it stays this course for the rest of the way. Aquatic/woody/citrus with a not too powerful ambroxan note. There isn’t all that much depth or development with this Carolina Herrera.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

212 Men Aqua actually starts off feeling pretty powerful. It think its that sharp freshness, which projects itself, and gives the impression of having a huge sillage. However, it will settle down with a few minutes, to something that is much more middle of the road.

The longevity was actually pretty darn good, on my skin. It could hit up to 8 hours, but I also only got 6, a few times. Not an amazingly long-lasting scent, just one that does a solid job of keeping on, during a standard workday.

I’d expect it to fall somewhere in the 6-7 hour range, on most occasions. Depending on the climate that day, you might get an extra hour or so out of Aqua.

Speaking of which, this isn’t one I’d wear to the office. This is more of a casual or outdoorsy wear, to spray on when it’s hot outside. But, outside of super formal events, it shouldn’t be too bad.

This would be a solid pickup for the spring and summer months, when you need something to smell good, and be able to stand up to the high humidity. Very dry and clean, in the latter stages, giving Aqua a tad more maturity.

Overall Impression of 212 Men Aqua

Do I like this scent? Yes, it does smell good. Is it great? Not really. It’s another entry into the citrus and woods aquatic cologne, which has been done thousands of times. However, this is a nice example of the genre.

I actually enjoy the dry down, when I get to experience the wood notes, entirely. That, along with the grapefruit, and light aquatic vibe are a very nice smell. Plus, you do get the performance to go with it.

The ambroxan note isn’t too annoying here either. Actually, it fits in quite well, never getting too heavy in the mix. Since it does favor the Light Blue fragrances from D&G, this could be a solid alternative. The ambroxan and calone in Intense, can be too much for some guys, and this is lighter on both counts.

Is this a buy? Not at full price. This was a limited edition run, so, there doesn’t seem to be any discounts as of writing. Maybe there won’t be any extra overstock. But, if I could grab this at $30 a bottle, it’d be something I use for summer.

Update: This one appears to be basically gone from the market in most places in 2023. I guess most bottles got bought up.

It seems other people liked this one a lot more than me. To me, it’s solid and kind of being borderline of something that I’d personally want to own.

Eau De Cartier Vetiver Bleu by Cartier

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Here is the second and final of my two recent Cartier fragrance sample review. Today’s entry is: Eau de Cartier Vetiver Bleu. Yes, it is a flanker perfume of the original unisex scent, Eau de Cartier. This one has the famous vetiver note along with mint and was released in 2015. Does it smell good? Perform well? Should one try it out?

What does Cartier Vetiver Bleu Smell Like?

Notes include: mint, vetiver, and liquorice

Click here to try: Cartier Vetiver Bleu Eau de Toilette Spray for Men, 3.3 Ounce

My Full Review

The opening of Vetiver Bleu is of course a blast of vetiver. However, it is a cold and crisp aroma that is joined by a mint note. I like it at this point, as the fragrance feels earthy/woody yet completely refreshing.

It is an icy mint sensation like you would find in Ice Men, with a much less intense spearmint coming at you.

As it dries down, Vetiver Bleu becomes sweeter with the emergence of the licorice note, and takes on a smokier woody undertone. The licorice and mint feel like the merge during the dry down and you get this sharp sweetness in the perfume.

At this point, it is much warmer than the opening, and still retains a bright and upbeat vibe. I like the mint and vetiver combination, it’s found in many colognes, but just works amazingly well.

The licorice, isn’t too bothersome, and actually adds a nice element to Vetiver Bleu. It can be a tough note to deal with for me. There are plenty of perfumes which have utilized it, that start to get annoying after an hour or so. Vetiver Bleu seems to avoid that fate.

That’s about what you’re going to get from Eau de Cartier Vetiver Bleu in terms of the smell. It’s a simple and pretty linear fragrance. Although, the change that I mentioned is pretty noticeable and interesting.

Sillage, How Long it Lasts, and Versatility

Projection is moderate. It’s kind of a light fragrance, as it won’t be in your face all day, but it’s strong enough that you’ll catch whiffs during your wear.

The longevity is just ok. Not great, but I can squeeze 5-6 hours from it, which keeps it useful. After trying Vetiver Bleu a few times, I’ve come to the conclusion that this time frame, is about its limit. It’s not terrible, but fairly disappointing.

It’s a fragrance for casual times in the spring/summer or it can be worn at the office. Vetiver Bleu is safe enough to wear without catching any negative attention in the process.

This is a unisex fragrance, even if that focus note is much more widely used in men’s fragrances and this one does lean masculine. But, with the licorice and mint, it really doesn’t stray all that far into that direction.

I wouldn’t call it a sexy scent or one that will really gather too many complements, but it is solid and fresh.  Really just a pick for those who enjoy vetiver and want a slightly different take, on the note.

Overall Impressions of Vetiver Bleu

Do I like Eau de Cartier Vetiver Bleu? I do. I think it’s nice but I’m not in love with it. I do like the opening of vetiver and mint the best. Licorice, is not my favorite note, and as seen with Lolita Lempicka tends to give me a headache.

I think that it is an interesting take on vetiver scents, but it doesn’t strike me as one of the best of the lot. If you like vetiver and licorice, this is definitely a solid buy.

The only real weak spot is the performance. It’s completely average, in that regard. Not going to be an all day wear and isn’t going to absolutely leap off of the skin. Which can be a problem, when you’re paying Cartier prices.

I’m not sold on it, but like it well enough. If you enjoy this type of cologne and can get a good deal, it may be worth a try. For most guys, it’ll be a pass.

Update: Here in 2023, Vetiver Bleu is not widely available, even among the discount sites. I’m not sure when it was discontinued, but it has been. I’m only seeing bottles for basically above $100, at most places. Not a fragrance that one needs to track down at that price.