Cologne Reviews

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

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Kouros is one of the most famous men’s fragrances of all-time. Released in 1981, it has been a topic of discussion, both positively and negatively ever since. It’s one that I’ve had familiarity with in the past, but never did a full review for the site. Recently, I grabbed a decant of one of the more modern batches in order to finally put something to record. How does it smell? Is it still super strong? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Kouros Smell Like?

Notes include: clove, coriander, ambergris, sage, artemisia, leather, cinnamon, jasmine, musk, moss, and more 

Click here to try: Kouros by YSL

My Full Review

Note: I am only reviewing the latest batch here. I don’t have a time machine or 40 year old bottle that’s still good handy, so, that’s what is being rated/described here.

So, Kouros was one of my earlier fragrance encounters, while trying out parts of the old YSL lineup 15+ years ago. This, Opium, and Kouros Body were among those that I tested out. The latter two, were the one’s that I ended up purchasing. I wore both for a long time.

I think to the less experienced me, Kouros came across as being too bold for me to really want to wear. However, I didn’t dislike the scent either, and it’s one that I’ve come across every few years since.

Nowadays, I doesn’t garner the same shocking reaction to it’s strength and uniqueness when compared to modern scents. I’ve gotten used to a lot of the colognes of decades pasts and the ingredients that don’t get much use any longer with the popular scents.

Plus, if it has indeed been modernized and reformulated, maybe it doesn’t pack the same punch as the 1981 version.

The opening spray of Kouros is fresh, dry, with a spicy kick. Aldehydes and musk, really come through to my nose. The aldehydes remind me quite a bit of Chanel No. 5. Same sort of cold brightness (maybe a touch of bergamot?). The musk gives this a rough fuzziness, which is enhanced by the spice notes.

I’m going to go with mostly coriander, sage, and patchouli for what I’m smelling. It’s pretty balanced and I’m not getting too much in the way of cinnamon. At this stage, it’s an earthy/musky aromatic sort of fragrance.

Maybe because they weren’t actually using civet for this newer era of batches, Kouros doesn’t really come across as being all that ‘dirty’.

Some earthiness, yes, but it’s more of the plants/leaves (geranium for a time, comes out) than the earth itself or any sort of animaliac influence. It’s a modern musk with some roughness to it.

A lot of the spice burns off pretty quickly. Whatever molecule they’re using to represent oakmoss nowadays, is what begins to come to the forefront. Kouros starts to smell cleaner, smoother, and with soapy touches.

After that spice has gone, you do get a good dose of artemisia. I smelled Luna Rossa Ocean again, a few days ago, and do pick up on their shared ingredients, including the artemisia.

The dryness remains throughout the wear, Kouros does however become sweeter and a tad more floral. Honey, carnation, and tonka bean. Still fresh with the aldehydes now combining with the moss and an emergent leather.

‘Urinal cakes’ is something that often gets used to describe what this smells like. It doesn’t. I think people have some associations with that due to the interplay of the musk, artemisia, and jasmine.  That clean fuzzy floral, probably triggers the association for some people, but it doesn’t actually ‘smell’ like a clean bathroom.

The final stages of Kouros is a slightly leather musky floral/herbal fragrance. There’s sweetness to it still, but it comes across as being very much a barbershop type of finish. Nothing too outlandish, but attractive and classic.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this still absolutely brings it, but it isn’t insane. I remember it having much more projection and ability to leave a scent trail. Nonetheless, it is still a powerful fragrance, just nothing extreme.

This modern formulation also has really good, just not totally elite staying power. 9-ish hours, on my skin, with an ability to just cross the ten hour mark at times.

Spectacular? Not really, but still better than a lot of stuff currently on the market.

Versatility wise, this one does have limitations. First of all, it can indeed be something folks either love or hate. I think the talk of it being hated, got extreme, and it’s really not going to cause poor reaction from others in most situations…if they even notice Kouros at all.

Seasonally, this YSL is awesome in the cooler weather. It’s above freezing right now in November, but walking outside brings Kouros to life and it hangs very well in the cold air. I would avoid wearing this in high heat and humidity, though.

It’s a solid business scent, casual, semi-formal, and even possibly date nights for some guys. It wouldn’t be out of place, as a romantic fragrance, as there is a certain sexiness with such a masculine fragrance.

Kouros definitely skews older, but isn’t ‘old mannish’. If you’re younger and want to try it, I’d probably not wear it to school or something like that. Just know that it’s going to be quite different from what almost any other guy is going to be wearing. Classic, but not anachronistic.

Overall Impressions of Kouros

Overall, do I like Kouros? Yes, I do still enjoy this one. It’s never been a total love for me and I don’t really understand the repulsion that others can have for it. Personally, I always liked Kouros Body more, as that was such a unique and awesome flanker.

Kouros is without a doubt a classic and an important men’s fragrance historically. Pierre Bourdon deserves plenty of credit for creating this one (his Live Jazz was also another banger, now lost to time).

The opening act is nice enough. The spices and aldehydes do their thing well, but I prefer the dry down, once you get some sweetness and leather involved. Neither ever truly overwhelms the muskiness, but I like what those notes bring to the table.

This is a cologne that still has plenty of life, solid performance, and isn’t just some museum piece that cannot be worn out. It’s not going to be for everyone, but Kouros will still get plenty of new fans, out of those willing to give it a try.

Coach Man Blue EDT

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Coach has come out with some pretty good fragrances releases for men over the past few years. None of them are amazing, but I tend to think that they’re all pretty good at least. As such, my expectations for Coach Blue weren’t too high when I got a hold of a sample sprayer recently. Does this 2020 cologne release exceed expectations? How long does it last? Is it worth a buy?

What does Coach Blue for Men Smell Like?

Notes include: absinthe, lime, cedar, pepper, and amber

Click here to try: Coach For Men Blue 3.3oz EDT Spray

My Full Review

Coach for Men opens up with a blend of lime and the absinthe note. The absinthe actually tones down the sharpness or juiciness of the lime, but I frankly don’t find the note all that interesting here. 

I’m not even much of a fan of 212 VIP Black, but that absinthe note was better used, in that fragrance. Here, it is meh, as the cologne smells like a fresh blue body wash. Not that it’s bad, but it’s pretty standard. 

That’s a common theme with this Coach fragrance.

There’s a bit of peppery spice up top too, but I really start to get a solid dose of amber. Lime, absinthe, and amber in the beginning.

Then, it will shift to being more amber and cedar with some lime leftover and just a trace of absinthe. That’s about the extent of this one’s development. 

I do like the aroma. Simple, not anything that wows, but attractive enough. It’s a fairly standard issue ‘modern blue’ sort of scent. It has aspects that feel unique, but this is well tread ground.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Coach Blue projects itself fairly well. To me, 3-5 feet away from where I sprayed it. I did this both on my skin and on a hoodie I had laying around. It’s moderate and not really going to blow out a room. 

On my skin, it lasted around 7 hours, give or take. Again, not a powerhouse, but quite solid and usable overall. I wasn’t disappointed by Blue’s performance.

Though, it’s about the same as you’re going to get with basically every other Coach fragrance. Nothing that’s ever going to perform extremely well, but it’ll do better than average. 

Seasonally, I’d like this one in spring or summer. Really, anytime you have at least moderate temperatures. It’s your typical blue style fragrance. Fresh, clean, with a citrus note. 

I’d also say that this will be for the younger guys. Think teens through maybe 25 years old. I think there are better options in this style of scent out there, so, it wouldn’t be my first pick. However, if a younger guy got a good deal, it wouldn’t be terrible.

Within that framework, it is a fairly versatile wear. Mainly a daily wear or casual blend, but it could venture into other potential scenarios.

 

 

Overall Impressions of Coach Blue

Do I like this one? Somewhat. It smells like a fairly typical blue, with enough of its own style, to set itself apart. Though, it’s definitely not an amazing release. It’s all very forgettable, but not unpleasant to wear when you have it on.

It’s fresh, blue, and like a more well put together body wash. Definitely getting an Old Spice Swagger vibe here…but definitely better and more of a quality aroma. I had a travel size of that body wash on a trip and the two are pretty similar in smell. 

It’s got good enough performance if you happen to like the aroma. I wouldn’t pay full price, but it’s all in all not a terrible fragrance, just okay. 

I like the lime note, the absinthe is disappointing, and the ambroxan is more of the same that’s already on the market.

Armani Code Eau de Parfum Pour Homme

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Armani Code keeps spinning off more and more flankers. Surprisingly, it took until 2021 for Armani to put out an eau de parfum version. Well, here it is. I was sent a mini bottle of this new fragrance when I bought a bottle of AdG Profumo recently. How does Code EDP smell?  How long does it last? When should it be worn? Is it worth a buy?

What does Armani Code EDP Smell Like?

Notes include: lavender, tonka bean, cedar, lemon, vanilla, suede 

Click here to try: Code EDP

My Full Wear Review

I would describe the opening of Code EDP as follows: take the citrus from the original Code and replace the leather with suede. Then, blend with Luna Rossa Sport by Prada and you have exactly what I smell here.

Most of the DNA at the start is a dead ringer for the Prada cologne. Lavender and tonka bean are dominant at first. Later, things will develop and I get a more vanilla based version of Armani Code.

The opening citrus isn’t that pronounced. It is more of the classic formulation of Code. The newer bottles of the EDT version, seem to have a slightly amped up citrus accord versus what it used to be. That’s good, I like that this one is going the older route.

Even though, lemon and bergamot are notes that can be absolutely enjoyable.

After 20-30 minutes, EDP becomes more distinctly a Code fragrance and less like the Prada.  The suede really starts to come through, joined by fresh cedar, and the tonka/lavender both take a step back.

Again, the final dry down is about that vanilla note. It takes over and gives me a refined and smooth aroma, greatly reminiscent of Code EDT, yet, with a slight distinction.

This is kind of where Code EDP loses me, the vanilla is so heightened, and it gets annoying with the level of suede and tonka bean that is in this formula.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here is pretty moderate. EDP doesn’t have the beast strength of either Absolu or Profumo. But, it does project itself better than the modern EDT and probably the classic, at least by my recollection.

The eau de parfum isn’t weak, you get a nice scent trail for a few hours, but it just doesn’t ever create a giant cloud of fragrances.

It lasts on my skin for 7-8 hours and doesn’t go beyond that. The performance here is above average, but nowhere near hitting elite status. Not really a problem for me, as I tend to get tired of this scent, but it at least goes a standard workday.

Seasonally, Code eau de parfum can venture into much of springtime, unlike the heavier versions of this line. Though, it is still mostly an autumn or winter wear. It just won’t completely melt when things get a little warmer.

However, I absolutely prefer it when it is cold versus the springtime. It just smells at its best when it is colder outside.

Outside of that, it has great versatility. Can be an evening wear or office wear. Also, it has enough modern style for younger men to wear it, while still being well put together for older men.

It’s classy and refined. Code EDP doesn’t scream for attention, but it will probably receive positive attention anyway.

Overall Impressions of Code EDP

Do I like this fragrance? Yes, I do. I would take this as a replacement for the original EDT. I happen to be a fan of Luna Rossa Sport, so, I enjoyed the similarities.

I don’t think that this is as good as Absolu or Profumo, but it is a less intense and more wearable version. Guys who want something that can perform, while still being fairly low key, will be well served to take a look at EDP.

I actually also like the newer Code Parfum more than this one. It’d probably be my pick outside of Absolu.

Just don’t expect anything too unique here. It’s a step up in terms of smell and performance versus what you get with Code EDT. Has a few different touches and is smoother. One negative, is the absence of the spices here, particularly the star anise. However, that’s not too big of a deal.

This one just wears on me, personally. So, it’s ultimately not one that I want to own.

Code Parfum by Giorgio Armani

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Code is the still and long-running series from Giorgio Armani. In 2022, the designer came out with Code Parfum for men to continue on the name. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a shot?

What does Code Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, sage, iris, tonka bean, cedar

Click here to try: Code Parfum by Armani

My Full Review

So, this is going to be a one wear review, at least until I update it in the future, after longer testing. I tried this out with 5 sprays from a tester bottle in a department store.

Here’s how Armani describes it: ARMANI CODE PARFUM rewrites the code of a timeless masculine fragrance – infusing the powerful and seductive signature Tonka Bean with fresh notes of iris, sage, and bergamot, to create a woody aromatic blend that is long-lasting and uniquely distinctive. ARMANI CODE PARFUM speaks to a man who rewrites the codes of masculinity – a new seduction that is charismatic, a confidence that is refined, and a self-expression that is authentic.

From the first spray of Code Parfum, I am reminded a lot of Luna Rossa Ocean. Sage, bergamot, and iris are all major players early on with both of these colognes. It’s as if you took the main idea of Ocean and combined it with elements of the original Code.

Parfum lacks the suede and caramel, but also includes the tonka bean note. So, it’s not as smooth as Ocean, nor does it have that ‘blue’ aroma. But, I think that this one has a great colder freshness.

The bergamot is awesome here. Sparkling, enough juiciness, and it actually lasts throughout the wear, on my skin. The citrus note tends to disappear, as it does in the Prada cologne. But, with this one you get a nice run.

The iris note, is sort of two fold. You get the sunny aldehyde version and then, the rich orris butter. The aldehydes give this one a colder feeling throughout. Sage and aldehydes together. Yes, the iris has a faint powdery smell, but honestly isn’t that heavy with it. This one actually leans more towards a light soapy/cream aroma.

The tonka bean here is much weaker than it is in Code EDP, for example. Which was heavy on that and vanilla, to the point of distraction. Still nice, just wasn’t great. Here, I like the light sweetness and smoothness that it adds to the mix.

The tonka bean does play more of a role in the dry down, as the bergamot fades somewhat. Yet, the end is headed up by the tonka bean and iris. With the bergamot and a bit of cedar playing support.

Clean, simple, and effortless to wear.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Parfum has an above average amount of projection and will probably leave a trail for around 2 hours, with proper sprays. For me, during this test run it felt like it radiated off of my skin well enough.

It’s not a heavy scent or a club beast, so that’s not what I’d expect.

Longevity here was in the 7-8 hour range. Maybe it’s capable of a little more, but I wouldn’t count on it, outside of heavy spraying.

Seasonally, I wouldn’t mind wearing this anytime outside of the summer. The freshness allows it to definitely venture outside of the winter months, also. Ideally, I’d like wearing this best here in autumn or the early spring.

This is a daily wear cologne. Super safe for the office. Attractive and not going to blow out the room. Code Parfum has plenty of versatility. It can be worn more formally, casually, or even on a date if need be.

Overall Impressions of Code Parfum

Overall, do I like Code Parfum? I do. Code Absolu is still my favorite from the series currently. But, I think this is better than the EDP and the modern version of the EDT.

Update: Coming back to this one a few years later, this one is great. It might be more enjoyable to me than Absolu, at least at times. Plus, they don’t make that one anymore, so I’d go with Parfum.

I was a fan of Luna Rossa Ocean’s opening act, so I really enjoy the similarities here. This one, is better over the duration of the wear, and doesn’t turn into a super boring cologne. Simple, yeah, but the aroma is very nice and kept my attention.

You’re still going to get plenty of the vibe of the original EDT, just in a fresher and cleaner form. It’s updated and modern, from an older formula which has been degraded over time.

Performance isn’t amazing, but it seems to be able to hit a standard work day. Versatile enough for multiple seasons, office or even night life.

One issue here, might be the pricing. As a Parfum version, the higher concentration is going to sell for a higher price. So, you might want to test it out before blind buying.

It’s probably not going to offend anyone, just you may want something different for the same price point. I don’t think the price is anything outlandish, however. Perhaps a bit elevated.

I was tempted to grab a full bottle for myself. I enjoyed wearing Code Parfum. As of now, it’s sort of borderline. Not something I definitely want, but may end up with at some point.

The One Gentleman by D&G

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The One line has spawned a ton of different fragrances over the years. I have gone through and reviewed all of them except for today’s entry, The One Gentleman. This is actually an older release which came out back in 2010. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a try?

What does The One Gentleman Smell Like?

Notes include: cardamom, vanilla, pepper, lavender, watercress, patchouli

Click here to try: The One Gentleman

My Full Review

The One Gentlemen starts off with a burst of the same cardamom note found in the rest of the ‘The One’ series of colognes. It’s pronounced flanked by a peppery spice and the underlying familiarity of vanilla.

There’s something a bit different about this opening though. I think it is the inclusion of the watercress note. A bit of a fresh herbal smell, not something I come across routinely, and not exactly sure if I like it or not in this mix.

That watercress aroma will tone down as we move along and basically have no influence thereafter.

After this initial phase passes, the lavender note comes in, to join the cardamom in being the main event. With the lavender, the vanilla note feels a bit powdery less of a creaminess here, and the pepper still commands some attention.

Patchouli sort of takes over for the watercress, giving this a greener/earthy influence. As it wears on, this is less spicy more of a classic creamy vanilla and the lavender note which stays strong throughout.

Gentleman really does turn into a lavender heavy fragrance the deeper you get into its development. It’s all pretty fresh and somewhat sweet, with a unique take on The One name.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatilty

Sillage wise, it’s above average, but its initial punch doesn’t last super long. About an hour plus of decent scent trail creation and projection off of the skin. After that, The One Gentleman is going to be closer to the skin, but with a few feet of projection.

After 4 hours, it’s basically a skin scent.

The longevity is okay. I get somewhere in the 5-6.5 hour range with this Dolce & Gabbana fragrance. It doesn’t go beyond that high end and can also quit a bit before it hits the five hour mark.

Pretty average to somewhat above average, sort of depends on the day for me.

Seasonally, I like this best in the autumn or winter. I’d avoid the high heat of summer, but it isn’t too cloying in a more moderate spring-like setting.

It does have a pretty great amount of versatility. It could be a daily wear, good for younger guys, and even venture into the nightlife. It’s not the most well put together cologne, so, I don’t think it lives up to the ‘Gentleman’ moniker. 

It’s not anything that’s going to jump out as being overbearing or cheap, but I don’t think it has much appeal as a formal sort of fragrance.

 

 

Overall Impressions of The One Gentleman

Overall, do I like this cologne? I don’t hate it, but it really doesn’t appeal much to me either. This is a scent that I thought I’d enjoy more based on the notes, but it doesn’t hit the mark. 

The vanilla and the cardamom are highlights of the experience. When it turns more into a lavender bomb, Gentleman sort of loses me. It’s fine, just nothing really impressive here. Gentleman ranks in the back half of The One colognes, in my opinion.

The performance is fair. Not a powerhouse and not something that’s going to last all day, while not being utterly useless either. 

For a lot of guys, this is going to be a pass, as there isn’t a distinct reason to own it. Some seem to like this one, but for most it’s just decent. If you can find it at a huge discount, then, why not? Otherwise, why?