Cologne Reviews

Noir Extreme Parfum by Tom Ford

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Noir Extreme is one of my personal favorite fragrances to wear. So, when I saw that the Parfum version was being released in 2022, I had to order a bottle for myself upon release. I was excited for a bolder and spicier remix of the original. Does it deliver? How long does it last? Is it actually worth a buy?

What does Noir Extreme Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: Shimoga ginger, cardamom, amber, tonka bean, guaiac wood, leather

Click here to try: Noir Extreme Parfum at Sephora

noir extreme parfum review

My Full Review

Here’s how Tom Ford describes it: A bold intensification of the original scent, Noir Extreme Parfum merges amber, spices, and woods, evoking the private, daring aspects of the Noir man.

Note: As of now, these are my initial thoughts of Extreme Parfum. Since it’s brand new, I’m going to be updating the page over the next week(s), as I get more time spent wearing it.

The opening of Noir Extreme Parfum has a lot going on. You get the same light citrus and neroli notes, as the original. What I do notice, is that the floral accord in this one does not have the same strength.

Those white floral notes do not play a major role in Parfum. Not that they’re massive in the original, but they are always present in that one. However, the citrus notes do have more of a role, adding a sparkling quality to the spice, and are playing off that initial ginger.

One of the main changes here, comes with the spices. The ginger note replaces the nutmeg of the original Extreme and is paired with that same cardamom note. The opening sprays are spicier, warmer, less sweet, and smoky.

The guaiac wood is also a new addition, hello smokiness. This a very rough, dry, and somewhat animalic version of the note, not a sweeter one. It’s funny that this base note, is so noticeable in the opening, but really tones down as it dries down.

So, the kulfi note is still present with the vanilla note. The vanilla is weaker in Parfum, splitting its strength with a tonka bean. This actually gives that kulfi accord a bit of a boost within the composition. A very similar effect overall, just slightly different.

The kulfi is sweet, creamy, with a pistachio finish.

Once the spices and guaiac wood has settled down, the leather note really comes out fully. That’s the biggest change with Parfum. Smooth, yes, but the smokiness and warmth doesn’t allow it to pop in the same way it does in something like Ombre Leather.

The final dry down is a leathery and spicier/warmer version of the original. It’s really a split between the remaining kulfi/tonka/vanilla notes and the leather. The amber note is noticeably weaker in the Parfum version’s dry down.

As a single note, the leather has the greatest weighting at this point.

noir extreme parfum

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The performance on the whole, is roughly the same as Extreme EDP. However, I don’t think that Parfum has the same sillage and projection as that one.

Not a huge difference, but it is a slight step back. You get that initial power from the ginger and cardamom, then, it settles into that same kind of moderate projection. Not a huge deal, but I thought that this would be a beast mode with the higher concentration.

Coming back to it again and again. It really doesn’t seem to be stronger than the original for me. I’ve tested on shirts to see how far away I can detect it and there’s almost no difference, other than EDP feels a bit more powerful.

With the EDP, I get 6-8 hours of wear from it usually. Though, with the way that I spray (heavy), it hits that 8 hour mark more often.

Parfum seems to be able to go up to 9 hours, during this initial testing. It’s a slight step back in terms of its strength, but its staying power is also slightly better on me. Again, about the same overall, but this is what I’ve gathered about it thus far.

Seasonally, Parfum is still a colder weather fragrance. It’s summer now, so, I’ve had to test it out in the air conditioning. Not ideal, but it’s fine in the temperate climate. In the heat, it gets messy like the original.

I can’t wait to give it a go in autumn and winter. That leather addition should be great.

Noir Extreme often felt like more of a unisex wear than being strictly something men would want to wear, since it’s based off the original Noir. This one, falls more so in the masculine camp, still wearable by anyone just heading toward one side of the spectrum.

Overall Impressions of Noir Extreme Parfum

Overall, do I like Noir Extreme Parfum? Yes, I do. Is it better than Noir Extreme? First impressions…not really.

These Tom Ford fragrances are really similar to each other, just with the differences that I mentioned above. I am a massive fan of the original, it’s one of my favorites ever, and it’s going to be tough to top.

I like the changes here, but there’s nothing about it that truly surpasses Extreme EDP.

Now, that’s my first impression. In a week or two, it might have flipped completely. As of this moment, Extreme Parfum is a few points below its predecessor.

Update: Parfum has grown on me more. It’s almost a tie at this point between these two fragrances for me. I will often spray both of them on at the same time. Like, two sprays of EDP for every spray of Parfum. Still, I think I still enjoy EDP more, personally.

That being said, you may prefer the added spice, smoke, and dirtiness that Parfum brings to the table. Though, if you also already have a bottle of Extreme EDP, the differences may not be enough to justify a bottle of this.

I’ve seen some people say already that these smell exactly the same. They don’t. There are distinct differences, but this also isn’t a complete re-imagining of the formula. Just expect less of that amber and white floral notes, also.

Is it worth a buy? Yes, it’s a great fragrance. If you already own one, you don’t ‘need’ the other. If you’re undecided, I might wait to be able to test this one and see if you dig the new changes versus the EDP version.

Encens Satin by Giorgio Armani

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Armani Prive is the upscale line of the Giorgio Armani brand. I’ve tried some of them out before, but not the entire range. I really wasn’t checking for Encens Satin, but when I had the change to buy a sample as a part of a lot, I went ahead and added it on. How does this one smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth the high price?

What does Encens Satin Smell Like?

Notes include: incense, amber, woods, spices

encens satin review

My Full Review

Here’s how Armani describes it: Celebrating a new vision of legendary, sensual, incense. Blue satin, as fluid as the Mediterranean. A midnight blue, refined and modern, one of Giorgio Armani’s most emblematic colors. Satin that caresses as it envelopes the body, always in motion. It is this opulence and radiance that inspired Giorgio Armani to create Encens Satin, a fragrance where each note is wrapped in a deep, luminous embrace.

This is an absolutely smooth, warm, and rich incense fragrance. many other perfumes which use that note, have a harsher and smokier incense. This one is hot and almost like it hasn’t been burned in a while, and yes, somehow feels like it’s wrapped in satin. Weird.

With that, there are some generic spice notes up top. Not very distinct in how they come across, almost like they are sprinkled within the amber itself. It feels like they used labdanum here too, along with the amber note. It’s sweeter, spicier, and deeper than I’d expect otherwise.

The wood here is quite light. I get brief hits of it throughout, but this really turns into the incense and amber show. Sure, some hints of spice remain, just not to the same extent as the beginning.

Again, since the smokiness isn’t heavy, Encens Satin actually comes across as clean and very dry. I get the same deep darkness impression that I get with another Armani scent, AdG Profumo, just on the opposite end of the spectrum.

Water based incense versus this dry aroma. Oh, the frankincense is way higher quality here, though.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Encens Satin isn’t a super heavy fragrance. It has depth, but it very wearable. I don’t find it to be blow out a room powerful. It projects itself well above average, in the first few hours, and will leave a nice scent trail.

But, never made me feel as if it were dominating absolutely everything.

The longevity is great. I got well above 10 hours on my skin. Probably in the 12-ish hour range, at least as a faint amber note. There is no disappointments with how this scent performs.

Seasonally, this is going to be autumn and winter. Maybe the early part of spring, at night. But, I really wouldn’t go too warm with when I ventured to wear Encens. It works in the cold and crisp weather, but can fall apart completely in the heat.

This Armani is indeed a true unisex. Doesn’t lean too far in either direction. Perhaps, a slight bit more traditionally male. Not enough to make a fuss over.

This isn’t a daily wear for most people. Sure, cold weather and out a night, it’s great. Maybe not a daytime fragrance to go with in many office environments. Some folks, might have jobs where it’d be fine.

Again, not too intrusive and not obnoxious. Just kind of depends on your own circumstances.

Overall Impressions of Encens Satin

Overall, do I like this fragrance? I do. I’m not a major fan of the incense based fragrances of this sort, but this Armani is fantastic for what it is.

The amber and the incense lead the way, with only hints of spices and wood throughout. However, it simply works. Not too complex, but you get a full array of sweetness, spiciness, smokiness and just a great perfume all around.

It projects strongly, but isn’t so overpowering as to make it off-putting. But, it also lasts a long time, helping to make the cost of entry with Encens Satin more palatable.

I am pretty sure that Encens Satin has been discontinued, as it’s out of stock everywhere that I’m looking, at the moment. As such, you’ll probably have to track down a bottle in order to experience it…or grab a sample first on eBay, if available.

That being said, if your an incense fan or just think that this one sounds interesting, Encens is definitely worth a try.

Dior Homme EDT (2020) by Dior

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Dior Homme is a series which has been well-loved in its multiple iterations during the past two decades. Well, Dior once again reformulated the fragrance in 2020, moving away from the iris based scent. The 2011 version was my daily wear for a long stretch of time and I’ve been really slow at giving this newer edition a try. How does it smell? Is it actually worth a shot?

What does Dior Homme (2020) Smell Like? 

Notes include: bergamot, elemi, pink pepper, Haitian vetiver, Atlas cedar, musk, patchouli, cashmere, Iso E Super

Click here to try: Dior Homme at Macy’s

dior homme edt review

My Full Review

Here’s how Dior describes it: The virility of Atlas Cedar embraces the enveloping warmth of Haitian vetiver with a caress of spices. An intensely woody yet luminous signature that leaves a sensual trail.

Dior Homme does open up with the same slight citrus quality as its predecessors. Now, completely different fragrances, but that bergamot is still here. It just doesn’t punch you in the face like other citrus openings.

Actually, what this one actually reminds me of is the old Guerlain Homme, that I used to wear 6 or 7 years ago. That one was boozy/sweet with its mojito accord, but the underneath that, it is very similar to the start of this new Dior.

They share the bergamot, vetiver, and cedar notes. Plus, an overall freshness with some spice. Here it’s pink pepper and patchouli, rather than mint and geranium.

Aside from that light citrus top, pink pepper and vetiver are pretty strong for me early on. I get much more of that Haitian vetiver than I do the cedar in this early stage, but that will change as we move forward. 

The spice isn’t overwhelming at all here. It’s more of just a touch, along with a bit of resinous warmth from that elemi note. Another scent that seems to be a distant cousin to this is Allure Homme Sport Cologne…which is almost a dead ringer for Dior Homme Cologne.

That cologne version of the popular Chanel has a cedar finish and that same elemi resinous warmth.

As this rolls along, it’s less of that fresh spice and the woods have a sweeter quality. Cedar and the Iso E Super influence really start to show. A light general musk and some smooth cashmere wood also join the fray. 

This Iso E Super seems to add a general woody/earthy quality that leans more towards the patchouli side of the spectrum. It’s very clean when it’s all brought together. I like the cedar note a lot in this blend. 

The final dry down of this fairly simple fragrance, is more of a sweet musky aroma with touches of the remaining woods. Really easy to wear and is quite clean.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here isn’t amazing, but it is a fragrance that leaves a trail and has a nice ability to project itself from the skin. Just not a beast at all, however.

Dior Homme is pretty moderate. You’ll probably stop noticing it, before others around you do. Since it isn’t a heavy scent with one note that really sticks out, you can sometimes think that it is gone, and then it’ll re-emerge. 

The longevity here seems to be in the 6.5-8 hour range, on skin. Not great, but very serviceable for most purposes. There’s a decent chance that you’ll make it a full work day, but you may need to reapply, if you’re getting drinks afterward. 

The strength of this scent, lies in its versatility. I mean, it wouldn’t be my winter fragrance, but it could probably still work decently there. In the height of summer, I’d also probably go with something else. Though, it did do an okay job in the heat during testing.

It’s mass appealing, safe for work, and has a masculine aroma without being overbearing. It can be worn almost anywhere and be fine. Unless you want a nightclub beast, Dior Homme should have you pretty much covered.

As a daily wear office cologne, Dior Homme is definitely one to reach for.

The age range should be everyone. It’s modern and fresh. Dynamic enough for younger guys, while not being childish or tacky. Plus, a classy confidence for the professional type. 

 

 

Overall Impressions of Dior Homme EDT (2020)

Overall, do I like the 2020 version of Dior Homme? I really do. It’s not as good as Intense or the 2011 version, in my mind, but has a very great and simplistic aroma that I find attractive.

The old Dior Homme with the iris, leather, and cacao notes had a uniqueness and depth that this one doesn’t. But, this will probably have more mass appeal, without that famous iris note.

I am getting a complete Guerlain vibe from this cologne, though. It’s a better scent than Guerlain Homme, which was kind of quirky with its mojito influence. But, this has that same vetiver and cedar almost to a tee. 

This isn’t super powerful, but the longevity is good enough for most purposes. Beyond that, Dior Homme EDT, is extremely versatile, safe to wear for all ages, and exudes the usual Dior class. 

This is for sure worthy of a buy. Just understand that this is a fragrance that is more low key and understated. Dior Homme doesn’t beg for attention, but it will still attract it.

Bvlgari Man Terrae Essence

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Bvlgari has released an Essence series of fragrances over the past number of years, each representing some part of the natural elements. I have been testing these out, after receiving samples of these colognes, a few months back. Today’s entry is the ‘earth’ portion of the line, Terrae Essence. How does it smell? How long does it last? Is it worth a try?

What does Man Terrae Essence Smell Like?

Notes include: vetiver, citron, orris, styrax, terrae accord

Click here to try: Bvlgari Man Terrae Essence

terrae essence review

My Full Review

Here’s how Bvlgari describes it: Continuing to harness the natural elements, Bvlgari Man Terrae Essence pays tribute to the power of the Earth, its authentic richness and diverse fertility. A scent impeccably translated through a contemporary and original vetiver interpretation, combined with an exclusive smoky Terrae accord.

Terrae opens up with a light citron note sitting on top of vetiver. Vetiver, to me is the second most prominent note throughout the entire duration of this fragrance.

The interesting part of this cologne, is going to be the terrae accord. I think, that it is what will make or break most people’s enjoyment with this scent.

The terrae accord is earthy, smoky, leathery, and woody. The styrax from the base also gives this one a warm and somewhat spicy balsamic presence.

Orris doesn’t come come across as being very strong or powdery. It’s more of an earthy root variety, but softens up that dirty aroma of the start.

At first, the fragrance has a spicy dryness and dirtiness about it. But, that really shifts to my nose, to become warmer and fresher as things move forward.

In the end, this is a prominent vetiver with a rich and dry earth, resin, citrus, and woods. Pretty different from most of the mainstream.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This one does come out with a pretty strong level of performance during the first hour or so. That will settle into something moderate, but above average in terms of leaving a scent trail and just general projection.

It’s not going to completely blow out a room, but 4-6 feet of projection from the skin or clothing, seems about what Terrae Essence is capable of.

The longevity isn’t bad. Again, it’s above average, but not great. It stayed around for about seven hours, on my skin, with pretty decent projection for the vast majority of that duration.

Terrae Essence doesn’t just quit early. So, if this is a scent you like, it’s a decent enough deal.

Seasonally, this works just about anytime, in terms of climate. The extremes of heat and cold, I’d probably stay away from. However, a nice spring day or the early part of autumn is when I’d say this is at its best.

This isn’t a formal cologne. Not a nightlife or sexy romantic wear (for most folks at least). It does have that rougher dirty quality to it, that might not always be crowd pleasing.

Terrae Essence also isn’t frivolous or childish. So, as a daily wear, casual, or even semi-formal fragrance this could totally work…if it’s your style. It’s ability to work in a variety of climates, gives one some leeway in terms of what occasion you’d want to wear it.

Overall Impressions of Terrae Essence

Overall, do I like Terrae Essence? I like it more than I thought that I might, it’s just not a strong like for me.

I appreciate that Bvlgari went in a different direction with this fragrance, as creating an earthy based cologne, isn’t going to win over most people out there. That being said, Terrae is very wearable.

I like the freshness here. The terrae accord itself, does have that nice touch of smokiness and leather that pairs well with the dirtier aspects of it. The dry down itself is more of a traditional vetiver fragrance. Dry with citrus, but the resinous notes give this one some more personality.

Performance is good enough. Not spectacular, just will give you most of what you need on a daily basis.

Terrae Essence can be a solid pick for the right guy. Blind buying just might not be the way to figure that out, as there is a real risk of an individual not liking this at all. Terrae is probably one you’d want to test out, if you don’t want to risk spending money on.

At full retail, I think this is overpriced. At a discount, it certainly has its merits.

H24 by Hermes

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Hermes is a brand that doesn’t seem to follow the trends, with its fragrance offerings for men. H24 is another example, released in 2021, which received mixed reviews from folks. I got my sample and have tested this Hermes cologne out, to see how it really performed. How does it smell? Is it worth a try?

What does H24 by Hermes Smell Like?

Notes includes: sage, narcissus, rosewood, sclarene

Click here to try: H24 by Hermes

h24 review

My Full Review

How does Hermes (best colognes) describe it: H24 is the first perfume expressing the contemporary man as seen by Hermès. A lively, sensual and bright perfume, stemming from the daring blend between nature and technology.

H24 isn’t all that complicated of a fragrance. However, I do think that it is an interesting one and takes things in a much different direction, than most other designer men’s colognes out today.

Upon first spraying, you get a sage bomb. The sage will be the strongest note in the mix here, which is pretty unusual for an ingredient which usually serves as a background player.

Also, noticeable with be the warmth of the metallic-like sclarene note. If I had to explain it, I’d say that it is sort of resinous, but not too thick. Warm. Almost like the carbon note found in Luna Rossa Carbon.

Underneath those two notes, sits the narcissus. Lending a nice floral aroma to the H24 blend. There does seem to be a light sweetness here also, from something fruity. Checking the chemical ingredients, I think it’s a bit of lemon blending with the flower.

Although, there’s something else there too. I just can’t quite pick it out.

After a while, the narcissus seems to back away. Rosewood occupies the base, along with some dry woodsiness. Again, an unlisted oakmoss note. Not too strong, but it even says it’s there on my sample card’s chemical breakdown.

So, fresh sage. Metallic warmth. Woods. Simple, right? Yes, but it really works for me.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage is moderate, but not at all weak on my skin. In fact, it provides a pretty substantial scent bubble early on, and sticks around fairly well.

The projection isn’t huge. However, 5-7 feet is about what I’ve experienced, and where I pick it up after spraying H24 on some clothing. Not a massive fragrance, but solid.

The fragrance stays on my skin for 6-7.5 hours. I had heard people say that this scent doesn’t last long. I don’t find that to be true. It worked well enough for me. Not an all day, marathon performance, just something I have no real complaints about.

Seasonally, this is beautiful in the warmth of the summer. Spring would also obviously be a good candidate for wearing H24. I wore this outside and then went inside to air conditioned stores, H24 adapted well and smelled great in the temperature changes.

This is a daytime wear. It’s attractive and pleasant. Not a nightlife banger or one for romantic evening occasions.

H24 is office and school safe. Not too casual or buttoned up and formal. It has a fairly wide use case during this spring and summer season.

Overall Impressions of H24

Overall, do I like H24? I do.

At first, I wasn’t too sure about it. Then, I tried this Hermes fragrance again and liked smelling it throughout the day. It’s not a complete love for me, just a pretty strong like.

I do like sage, so, that helps. But, this simple scent also gives you a unique blend of floral, metallic, sweetish, and woodsy underneath the herbal freshness. It’s modern and sleek. Very clean and inoffensive.

The performance is good, though not great. With around 7 hours of wear, H24 is good enough for most occasions.

This is worth a try. I wouldn’t mind having a bottle of it, but I’m not rushing out to purchase H24 either. If it’s on discount, it’s one that could get a lot of use in one’s collection.