Cologne Reviews

Allure Homme by Chanel

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Allure Homme is the original from the series, released back in 1999. I’ve already reviewed the flankers to this, on the site, and have put off writing this for months.

Mainly, I wanted to experience it without comparing it entirely to what followed (even though I do, in this post), but really appreciate this Chanel fragrance on its own. What does it smell like? When should it be worn? Does it perform well?

What does Allure Homme Smell Like?

Notes include: mandarin, coriander, cistus, cedar, tonka bean, black pepper, peach, rosewood, and more

Click here to try: Chanel Allure Homme Eau De Toilette Spray 150ml / 5 Oz

My Full Review

Let’s see how Chanel describes it: Difficult to define, impossible to resist. Crisp and clean, warm and sexy, ALLURE HOMME is the expression of a man’s charisma and inner strength. A fresh, spicy and woody composition that reveals the presence of the man who wears it.

The opening of Allure Homme is a bright clean citrus affair, led by the mandarin orange. That note is flanked by peach and some lemon. If you’re familiar with Edition Blanche, you can definitely pick up the DNA with the lemon note.

The fruit notes are joined at the top with some light and fresh spices. Mainly, coriander. Along with some black pepper and a touch of ginger, I think. With some added lavender…which is very light on me.

Allure does a fantastic job at being warm, while not being heavy, and retaining quite a fresh profile overall. There’s even a bit of coconut, that adds to the complexity, if you can catch it. Sometimes, I pick it up well, others not so much.

Well, as it dries down, some of the spices fade. The fruity notes become almost just the orange and lemon, by themselves. In the place of the declining notes, you will get wood, vanilla, amber and some aromatic floral notes.

The citrus is going to be the star, but this one does become drier as it moves forward. The sandalwood and rosewood are pretty prominent on my skin.

Along with, the vanilla note. This stage really gives me the Edition Blanche vibes, but with more complexity.

The final dry down gives me citrus, sandalwood, and cistus. Benzoin, also appears to be in the mix. That cistus (amber) aroma is very reminiscent of the one in Bleu de Chanel EDP.

The remaining notes the mix like vanilla can give this a creamy finish. Towards the tail end, it can often come across as somewhat powdery to me.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this is pretty moderate. With a decent amount of sprays, you’ll project in that 4-6 foot range, for part of the wear.

The rest of it? A few feet from the skin. Not exactly a powerhouse, but this Chanel can provide a nice intimate experience. The real tail end is pretty weak, the last few hours will be a skin scent.

The longevity usually hits the 6-7 hour range on my skin. Again, not something to write home about, but its fairly serviceable. Maybe the original batches went for longer, but with this latest crop, that’s what I got out of them.

Seasonally, I really never have a problem wearing this one. I don’t think I want to wear it on the coldest or hottest days of the year, but outside of that Allure Homme really brings it.

This is the most mature fragrance from the Allure series. Not ‘old-mannish’, but definitely not what you’d associate with much younger guys. Mid-20s and up is probably who is going for this. Stylish, not craving attention.

It can be worn during the day. To the office, semi-formal occasions, formally. It’s attractive enough for dates and nightlife, if you want to be pretty low key.

Overall Impressions of Allure Homme

Overall, do I like Allure Homme? Yes, I do. I think that it’s still full bottle worthy, even if I want better performance. This and Allure Sport Eau Extreme, still give you enough to justify a full purchase.

This scent is very versatile, mature without being stuffy, attractive, and one that I don’t have too many complaints about. The performance nowadays isn’t great. Probably my biggest beef with this perfume.

Maybe, I’d like an EDP version in lieu of the EDT. I do enjoy the lightness of Allure Homme versus the thicker Eau Extreme. It’s a nice change of pace.

The citrus here is great. Along with the light spicy beginning and fantastic woody/vanilla/amber dry down, this is an easy one to wear.

As a whole, this was a fantastic release from Chanel and one well worth checking out. It’s laid back, but well put together, and still smells great after all these years.

allure sport review

Guilty Pour Homme Parfum by Gucci

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It’s a new year and that means that Gucci is going to come out with a new fragrance to add to the Guilty line. For 2022, we have, Guilty Pour Homme Parfum. I ordered a bottle of this new scent to try out and see if the brand is going to add anything new or if its just more of the same. How does Guilty Parfum smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

What does Guilty Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: juniper, orange flower, cistus, lavender, nutmeg, lemon, patchouli, musk

Click here to try: Guilty Pour Homme Parfum by Gucci (Macy’s)

My Full Review

Immediately upon spraying, I can already tell that the closest comparison to Guilty Parfum is the now discontinued, Guilty Intense.

They aren’t the same fragrance, but I do get a lot of the same DNA. Lemon, lavender, patchouli, orange flower, cistus (instead of amber), and nutmeg (instead of coriander).

But, the structure is different and this new release is much smoother and natural than the old Intense. It is a much better blend.

Guilty Parfum is fresh and aromatic early on. The lemon note isn’t a full juicy fruit, more of the peel itself. Very light, actually. Nutmeg and juniper are big players in the opening act. It has a colder and woodsier feeling coming from the base.

I love the nutmeg and juniper combo playing of the usual Guilty notes. The opening is probably my favorite aspect of this fragrance so far.

Yes, you get plenty of the signature lavender and orange flower note, but more of that later on. And really, not to the same extent as others in the Guilty series. One note that will really come into its own is the Spanish cistus.

Basically, a labdanum note, that gives Guilty Parfum its ambery qualities. Not as heavy as the amber note in Intense and just of a higher quality.

The dry down still has some of that cold freshness, but much of the nutmeg and juniper have burned off completely. The latter stages are about musk, patchouli, cistus, and the floral notes.

Lavender and musk with the amber/patchouli and some remaining aromatic notes. Still does have a bit of a spicy finish, but feels more musky/woody than anything. I like it. Not super amazing to me, but it’s a very easy to wear scent.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here is on the upper edge of moderate, at its peak. Not going to leave a huge trail, but very noticeable in the first hour or so. After that, it’s pretty middle of the road and devolving into something that sits pretty close to the skin.

I would’ve liked more of a powerhouse, but this Gucci ain’t it. Not bad, just not a monster.

With these initial tests, Guilty Parfum lasts somewhere in the 7-8 hour range, on my skin. Again, not insane, but still well worthwhile. I’ll keep trying it out, to see if it can do more. But, that’s about what it’s looking like.

Seasonally, I do think that this one gives you plenty of opportunity to wear it. I would avoid the hottest days, but in the cold or more moderate temperatures, you’ll be good to go. Autumn through spring for most folks.

This one is very versatile and can be worn pretty much anywhere without offending anybody or feeling out of place. It’s got a more mature and refined aroma than something like Guilty EDT and older guys may want to go with this Guilty, if any.

Daytime or nightlife. It’s not a club beast, but one that I could easily wear (and will) to a bar or lounge to have a few drinks. Dressed up or even casual. Guilty Parfum is a good cologne to have in the rotation.

Overall Impressions of Guilty Parfum

Overall, do I like Guilty Parfum? I do. I think it is one of the better releases of the series. Especially, from the editions that actually stick to the main DNA.

Intense was one of my favorites, which I have a mini bottle of, and this one I might like a tad more…though, I’ll have to keep trying it out.

Update: The longer that I had this one the more indifferent I became toward wearing Parfum. It’s fine, still a good release in the Guilty line, but I don’t consider it to be a great fragrance. I eventually gave my bottle away, half used. If you can get a discount on it, it’s worth a try, I wouldn’t pay full retail for it.

It’s not a complete lavender bomb or strongly citrus. You do get a somewhat new direction with this version of Guilty and the juniper and nutmeg are awesome. Not too much in the floral notes, but a solid use of musk and wood in the dry down.

Very balanced scent, as a whole. It’s not a complete love for me, but one that I like a good deal so far. I wish it was a little more powerful, but it is still decent for what it is.

If you’ve liked the Guilty line, it is one to check out. I’m glad that I have a replacement for Guilty Intense and one that is cleaner and well put together.

I was afraid that this might be like Guilty EDP, a strong start, and then pretty disappointing. However, I think that the back end of Parfum actually holds up well.

Zest in Havana by Dua Brands

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I was pouring through all of the many fragrance options on the Dua Brands website and found many candidates, that I wanted to try out. One particular mash up fragrance caught my attention, Zest in Havana, which combines Dua’s two scents that were inspired by two popular Mugler colognes: Ultra Zest and Pure Havane. So, I bought it and have been putting the scent through its paces. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is Zest in Havana worth a try?

What does Zest in Havana Smell Like?

Notes include: orange, tobacco, vanilla, tonka bean, mint, ginger, coffee, styrax, honey, cacao, black pepper, labdanum, amber, and more

Click here to try: Zest in Havana by Dua Brands

My Full Review

Before we get into my review, let’s see how Dua describes this scent: Zest in Havana is the brightest day you can imagine in the city of Havana. It is equivalent to smoking a fine cigar poolside in Havana while enjoying a citrus cocktail and a decadent dessert drenched in honey. 

Zest in Havana opens with the citrus notes of tangerine and blood orange out in full effect. Very juicy and indeed bright as they note. Early on, I notice a mixture of notes flanking the citrus, before the main thrust of the fragrance is revealed.

I pick up more of the mint than ginger, as far as the spices go. Also, some touches of black pepper and cinnamon. Really, I get coffee in a surprising amount from the get go. That will for sure tone down, but the initial blast does have a nice coffee flourish.

Early on it feels lighter and fresher than the eventual warmer and thicker body the Zest in Havana will eventually develop. You’re definitely get the Ultra Zest portion early on, very much like the Mugler cologne, but with a bit of its own twist.

As I get further into the wear, the coffee and spices begin to fall away. The next phase is about vanilla, tobacco, and amber. The combination of vanilla and tonka bean give it a fairly creamy tone, but the citrus notes keep it lively and not straying too far into being another cold weather exclusive.

The final phase is mainly tobacco and amber. The vanilla falls back to the number three spot as far as weighting. The fourth is basically a blend of everything that’s left, including: labdanum, tonka bean, coffee, cacao.

The citrus is essentially gone, in any detectable level. There does feel like there may be some leftover fruity sweetness, but it’s not completely apparent.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, Zest in Havana opens up with a strong punch. That citrus blend really projects itself well early on. Add to that the spicy freshness and it project itself around 8 feet, with a few sprays. Now, it will settle into something on the lower end of what can be considered strong…but it does bring it.

With the longevity, it just keeps going and going. On skin, it has easily lasted 12+ hours on me without issue. I’m not sure just how long it goes, because I will usually shower within that time frame, but this Extrait de Parfum has no problems in the performance department.

Seasonally, this is interesting. The original Mugler colognes that Zest in Havana is based on, are kind of opposites. Pure Havane is an autumn and winter wear. While Ultra Zest, could venture into the summer as a refreshing citrus blend.

For Zest in Havana? I’m not sure it’ll be one to go to in the high heat of summer. Since it is currently winter, I cannot test it out to see if that’s the case. However, I’d say autumn through springtime for sure.

It’s fairly versatile and its mash up aroma is pretty unique versus what you get in other singular fragrances. It’s more of a casual daytime wear, with the ability to go semi-formal on the right occasion.

It is safe for work, at least once it has settled. The vanilla, tobacco, amber, warmer stage is pretty attractive…but you might want to wait for it to dry down after the initial spray.

Overall Impressions of Zest in Havana

Overall, do I like this Dua Brand fragrance? Yes, I like it. However, I didn’t love it, as much as I thought. I probably should have bought their plain Zest bottle instead of this blended combo.

It’s enjoyable in its own right, but I cannot say that I liked it better than either of the Mugler fragrances on their own. The blend works well enough, but it doesn’t strike me as spectacular. It’s worth a try if you like either Pure Havane or Ultra Zest.

I do really dig that opening citrus with the coffee undertones and mint/ginger mix. It’s pretty great. The dry down is a lot of Pure Havane and it’s nice, but I was hoping I’d get a longer lasting bit of Zest.

It’s a nice long-lasting scent, that I will continue to wear over the coming months. I’ll come back and update this page, if it starts to speak to me more. As of now, it’s cool, just not a must wear for me.

Polo Ultra Blue by Ralph Lauren

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So, I’m back again with another review of one of the newer Ralph Lauren releases, this one a flanker from the Polo Blue line of scents: Ultra Blue. This one came out in 2018, but how does it stack up? Is this flanker a worthy release? What does it smell like? How long does it last?

What does Polo Ultra Blue Smell Like?

Notes include: lemon, salt, amber, bergamot, basil, verbena, sage, juniper

Click here to try: Ralph Lauren Polo Ultra Blue 2.5 Fluid ounce Eau De Toilette

My Full Wear Review

Ultra Blue opens up with a mix of citrus and salt. There are two types of lemon in this one and a salty note that reminds one of an ocean breeze. Yes, this one is an aquatic, but not overly marine in nature, but quite fresh.

It’s actually pretty close to Polo Blue EDP, while maintaining its own character. This is lighter, less spicy, and more citrus/salty.

The melon and cucumber of the original EDT are absent here, which is a nice change of pace if you’re coming off of wearing that one a lot. The opening act of the citrus is really nice. Pretty familiar with other non-Polo fragrances, which do the same thing.

However, for what this is, I find it enjoyable enough. The light marine/aquatic elements are a nice tough, without going overboard into the realm of the oceanic.

Ultra Blue is much lighter than either of the other three Polo Blue colognes. It also strikes me as having a pretty simple and linear aroma. There is some change after the opening, but it’s not a big one, in my opinion.

I pick up on some spicy herbal notes like the sage and basil, which tones down the saltiness of the composition. Even then, nothing that is so powerful to be readily noticeable, unless you’re paying attention.

For the dry down, I get lots of citrus, a mix of salt and amber (sort of like a Creed fragrance would, but more on par with Tommy Bahama), and then the herbal undertones. It’s a nice citrusy clean with limited aquatic elements and a nice spice.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, the sillage of Ultra Blue is weak. I mean, it’s decent for about an hour or so, and then it sticks close to the skin…really close. You’ll have to go heavier with the sprays, to get good use out of it.

While I’m not in love with the scent itself, if it had a bit more power, Ultra Blue would be something that I really wouldn’t mind wearing fairly often during the summer months.

However, the longevity actually isn’t bad. Not great, but not as bad as the sillage. I get about 6 or so hours with it on my skin, in that very light state. With double sprays, you might be able to pull off longer.

I thought that it might quit really early, after I tested it out for the first time. But, it did keep chugging along in that airy/skin scent form.

Seasonally, an obvious candidate for spring/summer, with a nod to summertime in particular. The citrus, the salty ‘sea air’ quality at the start, just screams warm weather. Though, it’s so light, that it could be worn at other times without issue.

Ultra Blue is a casual fragrance or a light office scent for the daytime. I don’t think that it is loud enough or really ‘sexy’ enough to be a club cologne.

Overall Impressions of Ultra Blue

Overall, do I like Ultra Blue? I do enjoy the smell, it’s not amazing, but the aroma is good. It is similar to Polo Blue EDP, but has enough differences to set it apart.

What I don’t like, is the very weak sillage, but that can be somewhat overcome with a greater number of sprays. It turns into a skin scent much to quickly. Though, it hangs around for a decent amount of time.

It’s a nice freshy cologne for the summer months and wouldn’t be a bad buy, at the right price. I definitely wouldn’t pay retail for Ultra, if I could help it. But, for under $40 for a full size…it could be worth it, depending on your situation.

A decent effort from Ralph Lauren, but far from perfect. Edit: Now that they’ve released Polo Deep Blue, I’d go with that or EDP. Ultra Blue seems pretty pointless to have, unless its super cheap

Polo Sport EDT by Ralph Lauren

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Polo Sport was an insanely popular release back in the 1990s. I remember so many people wearing this, back then, and occasionally using some myself when I could get ahold of it. Since then, the ubiquity of use has calmed down, while this Ralph Lauren scent has pretty much achieved classic status. I grabbed a small sprayer of this cologne recently and wanted to give a full and proper review to Polo Sport. 

What does Polo Sport Smell Like?

Notes include: mandarin orange, mint, neroli, artemisia, lavender, bergamot, ginger, musk, sandalwood, and more

Click here to try: Polo Sport by Ralph Lauren for Men 4.2 oz Eau de Toilette Spray

My Full Review of Polo Sport

Obviously, I’m going to have to do this review with the current formulation of Polo Sport. Does it smell the same? My memory says no, but it doesn’t feel so radically different, that I couldn’t be wrong.

The opening act is a fresh burst of subdued citrus with fresh and quasi-soapy elements. I pick up plenty of orange, some lemon, as the man fruit notes. Then, there is the mint, lavender, and neroli. Up top, I mostly get mint and neroli, but the lavender will come on stronger later in the wear.

It’s got an absolutely chilled spice, with floral, and light aquatic smells due to the inclusion of seaweed. I appreciate the seaweed, in this Ralph Lauren cologne, versus something like Bvlgari Aqua. In the latter, I feel it becomes too much and distracts from my enjoyment.

The spice is fairly concentrated in the start, but within a few minutes, Polo Sport becomes smoother and more inviting with the citrus. This is when, I really begin to love this scent. The super cleanliness, vague watery pops, mint, and light floral touch. 

Then, there is that aquatic sweetness. It’s a smell that I find difficult to describe in words, but it’s exactly how I’ve always identified Polo Sport, and really haven’t found it in any other scent. There’s just something with the way the citrus blends with the aquatic notes and other ingredients, that has always stood out to my nose.

During the dry down, things are pretty set. However, Sport does add a slight muskiness and woodiness, later on. The fresh spice, doesn’t bite as hard, and it really lingers as a true sporty/aquatic cologne.

Sillage, Longevity, Versatility

Projection wise, Polo Sport has never been super powerful. It’s got decent sillage, in the first few hours, and then hangs closer to the skin. Even with this newer bottle, it doesn’t strike me as ever being weak. 

The longevity, seems to sit at about 5-7 hours on my skin. Not all that great, but still very useful. For me, the performance is better than Polo Blue EDT, which seems to get more attention these days. 

Does is have the same level of power as before? Probably not. Is it terrible now? No. 

 

Seasonally, this is a summer gem. Actually, any moderate to warmer weather situation will do, as Polo Sport is absolutely great. It’s a ‘colder’ sort of fragrance, so, it somewhat feels out of place during the winter. 

Polo Sport is like the ultimate casual cologne, that can still venture into semi-formal occasions. Warm weather daily wear, mostly, but there have been plenty of guys who wear this out on a date. This such an easy reach, as a daily wear fragrance.

Really doesn’t require much thought at all, as it won’t offend and has a great soothing character. It’s such a near all-around fragrance, which is why it has stood the test of time for decades now.

One of the best aspects, is that it can be a fitting choice to wear for teenagers, as well as older men. It simply has that dynamic energy to it, without being childish, or cheap smelling. Again, though, if you need something formal look elsewhere.

Overall Impressions of Polo Sport

This is a nostalgia cologne for me and a lot of other people, who are old enough to remember the 1990s. But, in the fragrance game, things can change a lot. The scents you once loved can be destroyed by reformulations.

Is that the case, with Polo Sport? Not really. It’s different, in some ways, but still retains its soul and what made this perfume work. Is it as good? Again, not really. Though, it’s still very nice to wear, and they haven’t killed it. 

Polo Sport is a classic, that is well worth giving a try to. I’m glad I bought a small travel sprayer, so that I can revisit this one. I’ll probably be wearing it, as the mood strikes me, over the ensuing months. 

Has it lost a step? Almost certainly. Though, when compared with some other options from older eras that are still produced, the decline isn’t as noticeable. It’s still a fun scent with its strengths and it’s not a performance beast…but I still enjoyed coming back to this cologne.

Update: Having finished the travel sprayer, I have to say that I do still enjoy wearing Polo Sport. Definitely not my favorite or anything, but it still has the ability to charm. I mostly wore it casually around town or to the gym, as a quick freshener. I don’t think I’d pay full price for it, but with some discounts in place, I’d give it another round.