Fragrances

Terre d’Hermes EDT by Hermes

by

Alright, I am revisiting this fragrance a handful of years. Also,10 years after my initial review. I know how popular and well loved this Hermes release is since its 2006 release. However, I pretty much hated it the multiple times, I wore it back then.

Now, I have hundreds upon hundreds of other fragrance reference points since then, and my nose has become much more adept at picking up details. I started to wonder, if I would still not like Terre D’Hermes? Wearing it today, would I change my tune and begin to love it? Below is my updated thoughts on this fragrance (over multiple years).

What does Terre d’Hermes Smell Like?

IMG_0260

Notes include: mineral note, Grapefruit, bay rose, pepper, geranium, Atlas cedar, benzoin, patchouli, vetiver, orange.

Click here to try: Terre D’ Hermes By Hermes For Men. Parfum Spray 2.5 Oz / 75 Ml

My Full Review

When I first tried Terre D’Hermes, I had pretty high expectations as to what this fragrance would be, and afterwards, I was really disappointed.

The opening act featured a strong orange note, which is sharp, and joined by an equally sharp and very bitter grapefruit note. On my skin, the opening smells like this old citrus scented cleaner/polisher, that I used to use on my furniture.

That’s exactly what I though of back ten years ago, with the initial review.

Update: Today, I don’t really feel that way, and I can definitely detect some more nuance here.

It’s not as sharp, as I once found it. I’m much more used to these sorts of smells, than I was back in the day. The citrus actually feels balanced here, sweeter with the orange than the bitterness of grapefruit.

Plus, you get a spicy black pepper note, bay leaf, and a mineral aroma. I actually have begun to enjoy that spice. Particularly, the lighter bay leaf note. It gives it a kick without dominating the composition.

I still don’t really enjoy most ‘mineral’ accords. In AdG Profumo, it works. Here, it’s not too distracting, either. When I first tried it, that’s a big part of what I could smell and why I hated this Hermes fragrance. But, this time around it doesn’t play a major role. Great!

There is also a certain level of smokiness here from the vetiver and perhaps the benzoin. I think that’s what it is, because I get a similar feeling from Kouros Body. Sort of fuzzy, smoky, but that YSL scent also had incense too.

I still get a lot of the pepper, but with more patchouli (decent), and a really fresh cedar and vetiver blend (I like this part). On top of all of that, is the orange note, still adding a sweetness.

The scent has less of that vetiver smoke, but I dig the touch. It’s a sweet orange and wood with an earthy quality and the remaining notes dancing in the background.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, the sillage of Terre d’Hermes is strong. Not super powerful projection, but still very good. I’d say that it settles into something noticeable, slightly above average, but not going to blow the doors off. Unless you really go heavy with the sprays.

The performance of this fragrance is great and the longevity hit 8 hours on my skin, during this latest trial run. Update: Here in 2023, still getting 8-ish hours from it. So, if you dig this scent, you do get your money’s worth.

The other strength of this fragrance is its versatility. It’s got an almost unisex quality to it, but it definitely leans more masculine. It’s clean, citrus/woodsy aroma, is safe for work, casual wear, formal situations, etc.

Terre d’Hermes is one that can be worn daily and works well in just about all climates, excepting the high heat of a summer’s day. It’s works in warm weather, but wearing it on a hot day, was an even worse experience for me.

Overall Impression of Terre d’Hermes

Overall, I’m still not a massive fan of Terre d’Hermes. However, it has gone from a complete dislike, to something that I can enjoy from time to time.

I still don’t really want a full bottle or to wear it all of the time, but I appreciate it more.

Eau Intense Vetiver, is another flanker of this that I like. Eau Tres Fraiche is one is still really don’t like.

This time around, I’m getting less of the mineral note, less sharpness/bitterness from the citrus, and highlights of the aspects of Terre d’Hermes that I like.

The orange seems to have more control in this batch, versus the grapefruit.  I prefer the orange, playing off of the other notes. The vetiver is great, as is the bay leaf, and benzoin.

Now that I get a better opening act with this one, the entire lifecycle of the cologne feels much smoother and something likeable. I’m never going to completely be one to love this fragrance, but it’s worth checking out for sure.

Others, have always been into it more than me. These days, Terre d’Hermes is something that has sort of won me over, just not entirely.

Azzaro Wanted by Night vs. Spicebomb Extreme

by

When it comes to wintertime fragrances, the original Spicebomb was legendary. Azzaro Wanted has also developed a ton of popularity in the past few years. Each of those fragrances spawned flankers, Wanted by Night and Spicebomb Extreme. For this post, I want to compare these two, how they smell, how long each lasts, and declare which one is the better buy.

Tale of the Tape: Spicebomb Extreme vs Wanted by Night

Spicebomb Extreme

Notes include: tobacco, cumin, cinnamon, saffron, vanilla, bourbon

Click here to try: Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb Extreme Eau De Parfum Spray 50ml/1.7oz

Read my Full Review: Spicebomb Extreme

spicebomb extreme edp

Wanted by Night

Notes include: cumin, cinnamon, lavender, tobacco, lemon, orange, cedar, cypress, patchouli, fruits

Click here to try: Azzaro Wanted by Night Eau de Parfum for Men – Mens Cologne

Read my full review: Wanted by Night

Opening

To kick things off, Spicebomb Extreme gives you a hefty dose of tobacco, lavender, sweet vanilla, and some spices. It’s not actually a heavy spice, but still quite noticeable cumin and cinnamon. I actually don’t think that this one is nearly as spicy as the original Spicebomb. 

Extreme is more about that tobacco note. It is smooth, warm, with that nice sweet touch. There is a great saffron note, which freshens things up, but plays a bigger role later on.

Meanwhile, Wanted by Night starts off with citrus and fruity notes up top. The spices are the same, cumin and cinnamon, but probably a bit more intense than in Extreme. Also, the tobacco note, which isn’t as good as Extreme’s. 

Which is better? While I really like Wanted by Night, I prefer the Spicebomb scent. It’s smoother, with a nicer blend of spice and sweetness.

Edge: Spicebomb Extreme

Projection

Both of these fragrances start off strong and then settle more into the moderate range. However, Extreme has the better sillage and it stays at that powerful level for longer. Wanted by Night is no slouch, is above average, but doesn’t climb to the same heights.

Edge: Spicebomb Extreme

Longevity

Wanted by Night is a very solid performer, clocking in at around 7-9 hours, on my skin. Nothing to complain about.

However, in comparison, it isn’t even close between these two fragrances. The V&R scent, goes above and beyond what you get with the Azzaro.

Spicebomb Extreme goes over 10 hours for me. It can get into the 12-13 hour range, on the right day. The Viktor & Rolf takes another category.

 

Edge: Spicebomb Extreme

Versatility

Both of these fragrances are built for autumn and winter. I would avoid both during the warmer months. Also, I’d much prefer to wear both in casual or nightlife scenarios, versus the office. 

The only real distinction, is that Spicebomb Extreme is a bit more mature. It has greater depth and has more refinement. For that, I’ll give it a slight edge.

Edge: Spicebomb Extreme (slightly)

Overall Scent

It’s easy to see why these two fragrances, often get compared to one another, what with all the overlap in their notes.

To me, one of them clearly stands above the other, from smell through how each performs.

I was never a huge fan of the original Azzaro Wanted, so, I wasn’t expecting to enjoy Wanted by Night all that much. I was wrong. I actually do like it and have worn it around, more than I was expecting to, after testing.

It’s a nice fragrance. I especially enjoy the opening hour or so. It has it’s charm, but it’s not something I’d want to reach for all of the time during the fall and winter. Update: The Most Wanted and Parfum are even better than Night.

The problem is, it doesn’t hold up when compared to Spicebomb Extreme. It’s just a better fragrance all around. From it’s strength, to its tobacco note, to the saffron touches. I’ll gladly wear either cologne, but I’m going with the Viktor & Rolf here.

Winner: Spicebomb Extreme

Ombre Leather by Tom Ford

by

I received in the mail a sample card from Tom Ford with a pull down tab of the new unisex scent, Ombre Leather, inside. I sniffed the card and really enjoyed the fragrance that I was smelling.

So, I headed to the mall to get me some actual sprays onto my skin for a review. Then, tried it once more a few days later. (note: I’ve updated this page since the initial post)

With that in mind, I have gathered my thoughts on this 2018 release, and type them up in this post. As usual, I will cover: what’s inside, what it smells like, when it should be worn, and whether or not I think it is worth a purchase.

What does Ombre Leather Smell Like?

Notes include: leather, moss, jasmine, amber, patchouli and cardamom

Click here to try: Ombré Leather Eau de Parfum Spray, 1.7-oz.

Okay, so, before I dive into my own review of Ombre Leather let’s see how Tom Ford describes it:

Vast. Untethered. Driven. Freedom comes from within, the desert heart of the west wrapped in leather. It moves forward, Untethered, through the still air of wide-open space. Dust on wind, skin on skin, Ombre Leathers reveals itself like a landscape in layers, where stretches of rock transform into sunrise blonde low on the horizon. 

My Full Review

Upon first smell, Ombre Leather naturally brought to mind Tom Ford’s, Tuscan Leather (without raspberry, but there does seem to be a bit of sweetness there). However, I actually feel like this 2018 Ombre Leather, smells more like Godolphin by Parfums de Marly at the start.

It took me a while to remember which Parfums de Marly, was reminding me of the Tom Ford, and had to look up the notes when I got home. Yep, they share the amber, leather, moss, and jasmine notes.

While I like Godolphin, I think that the leather note in this one is utterly fantastic.

It is a very dark sort of fragrance but not some overwhelming monstrosity with heavy spices. Ombre Leather is definitely unisex, dry, and warm; like how they describe the desert in the paragraph above.

The leather aroma smells like a high end jacket fresh off the rack, intense, and you can almost feel its presence in the room. It’s all super supple and smooth.

It does have spice early on. Cardamom and saffron really come through. The cardamom is there after that initial spray, but is the quickest of the notes to begin to fade.

The amber here is honestly not that intense, it kind of lurks in the background, but never really jumped out at me during the wear. Not that it isn’t totally present throughout. It does provide nice support, however.

What I do get during the dry down, is that familiar jasmine aroma, which lightens and adds a floral sweetness to the composition and allows Ombre Leather to become more unisex.

Geeeeezz, the leather and jasmine combo is really great. It’s pretty much what makes this scent for me.

This one is very well blended and can be somewhat difficult to distinguish the notes beyond just the leather at some points. There is a very nice dried outdoorsy spice in this one. Quite earthy moss, vetiver, and patchouli, which isn’t very heavy but does add some depth of character to Ombre Leather.

It does seem to be more vetiver at times, but I’ve seen both it and moss listed as notes…so who knows, how much is there of each. It’s difficult to discern.

Overall, it’s a clean and warm sort of scent, but it does have that rough/dirty side to it. The Western theme of the marketing campaign, actually does seem to fit, unlike so many other ridiculous fragrance adverts over the years.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, this one starts out strong. You won’t need more than a few sprays, because it veers into beast mode, at the beginning. It does dry down into something that is much more moderate, but by no means light. Just know, that it can be intense.

The longevity is actually very good, but there are two stages to it. The first is when it is noticeable, which is 6-8 hours of wear.

The second, as a skin scent, which will go on for about 3 more hours. Honestly, in most situations the longevity will be a-ok, for most anybody. It’s just not a 12+ hour ride of crazy loudness.

On clothes, Ombre Leather will go for days on end. Not massive projection that far into it, but you can pick up on it when you’re wearing the item of clothing.

Seasonally, autumn and winter. I don’t think it’d be truly awful in warmer weather, but it is simply great in the cold.

Does it have sex appeal? I think it does, but not everyone likes the smell of rich leather, so it’s not going to be universally beloved like a lot of the most popular fragrances.

Ombre Leather seems to perfectly straddle the line with the elements of masculinity but can still be oh so good on a woman. Wear this one with a leather jacket, or semi-formally, or with formal wear at night.

Overall Impressions of Ombre Leather

Overall, do I like Ombre Leather? Yep. Tom Ford did good with this one. I wasn’t too enthused with Noir Anthracite last year, but man, am I starting to love Ombre.

The leather is some of the best I have ever smelled in a fragrance and I enjoy the overlap it has with a scent like Goldolphin.

If you don’t like leather, then this is obviously not for you. Though, I think that this fragrance should be give a try, if you dig the leather note at all…because the one here, rocks. It takes a different tact than many other leather scents, but still remains familiar and has a nice amount of depth.

Update: Coming back to this in 2022, this might be my favorite leather scent. It’s really great and long lasting. I’ve also compared it to Ombre Leather Parfum, but I still prefer this.

The initial warmth and spice, the jasmine note, that earthy rugged desert vibe lurking underneath. The amber note…Ombre Leather is great. One of Tom Ford’s best.

Eternity for Men by Calvin Klein

by

Calvin Klein has a long history in the fragrance market, dating back to the 1980s. The most amazing part of this fact, is that, many of the scents are still best sellers every year, despite the fact they have been around for so long.

One of the colognes, is Eternity for Men, which debuted way back in 1990 and is still going strong. It has been a while since I’d smelled this fragrance, so, I ordered a sample vial to refresh my memory and decided to write a review.

Also see: The Best Calvin Klein Colognes for Men

What does Eternity for Men Smell Like?

eternity

Notes include: lavender, mandarin, basil, jasmine, sage, sandalwood, amber, rosewood, vetiver, geranium

Click here to try: Eternity for Men

My Full Wear Review

What I’ve always appreciated about Eternity is how simple of a scent it is. Not necessarily, in its complexity of notes but more of its consistency and how you know exactly what you’re getting out of it.

There are many colognes out there with severe performance issues or will take on completely different vibes in different environments but this Calvin Klein fragrance always seems consistent.

It’s opening is very clean and crisp. The lavender note is what I detect throughout and helps to give it an almost soapy quality to it, similar to the lavender in a body wash like, Axe Night.

However, those two scent wholly diverge after that, Eternity has a citrus quality to it from the mandarin and lemon notes, which is complemented by an accord of greens.

The notes that are the strongest or most detectable in Eternity for Men are the lavender, sandalwood, and vetiver. It’s a very smooth and calming type of scent which I would describe as masculine without become too dark and heavy.

Again, the citric and floral notes help to lighten this cologne up a bit and make it more appealing.

There is also the herbal spice contingent, lead by sage, which is most noticeable to my nose after the initial wave of the opening few minutes. It of course, gets subsumed somewhat by the soapy aroma, but it is there in varying strengths throughout.

The drydown period is where I think that Eternity really starts to come into its own, as a fragrance. The woody notes, herbal spice, and other earth ingredients play around in the background quite well.

The rosewood and sandalwood combination is great, with the latter being dominant in the composition. It all comes together as green, clean, with the citrus top notes still powering through, this late in the game.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Its projection is good to very good on my skin. I can certainly detect it and so can those around me but not in an overwhelming or offensive way. Is it long-lasting? It’s moderate in that regard.

Not one that I will smell like 10 hours later or anything like that but neither is it a fragrance which will disappear in 2-3 hours. I have gotten 5-7 hours usually out of it depending on the day, environment, what I’m doing, etc.

I’m sure the performance has probably changed over the years, since that is pretty standard with reformulations, and the like. Even if that’s the case, Eternity for Men still holds up well, where so many others have faltered.

Seasonally, it has always struck me as a springtime sort of scent, or during the early days of autumn, before it really gets chilly. Of course, it can go year round if need be, but that’s the impression it gives off in my mind.

It can be worn casually or a daily office wear. It’s clean enough to be at least semi-formal, but doesn’t have that high end quality, really. It is attractive, has a bit of sexiness, but isn’t a scent that will knock anyone’s socks off. Eternity is appreciated well, overall.

It kind of does skew younger in its use case, but doesn’t have a teenager vibe. Older men can wear this, if they are inclined.

Overall Impressions of Eternity for Men

Overall, this is a very attractive scent. Women seem to like it and it is versatile enough to wear on pretty much any occasion. It is not a cologne which is wholly unique and will make you stand out but it is really nice for what it is.

Eternity is a relatively safe and inexpensive choice as a daily wear, with solid performance and attractiveness. I wouldn’t be opposed to having a small bottle around again for myself on those days where I just want something simple.

Eternity for Men holds up well, even after the passing of decades. It’s a modern classic and one that should continue to have fans for the long haul.

It’s not a world changing scent, but one for guys in their late teens to late twenties (and perhaps beyond) to wear when they need a basic and safe cologne. I have begun to really like Eternity Aqua over this one and spray it on during the summer. So, that’s another option.

7 Best Smelling Ermenegildo Zegna Fragrances

by

Ermenegildo Zegna has been a long-time player in the menswear arena and has a whole host of fragrances available in its catalog. It creates both affordable and popular scents for guys but also some specialized niche kind of fragrances as well.

For this post, I’m going to mix it up between the two, and have selected seven colognes that I feel are the best of the bunch. Updating this page, some of these have gotten discontinued, and may be hard to find. I’m keeping them on the list, while adding newer releases too.

What are the Best Zegna Fragrances for Men?

Note: There have been some more releases in the past few years from Zegna. Most of which, weren’t released in the US, and had a limited run in Europe. So, I have yet to try them out.

Most Popular

Zegna Uomo By Ermenegildo Zegna 3.4 Oz/100ml Eau De Toilette Spray– With a very bright and rather sharp citrus opening, Uomo screams to be worn during the warmer months of the year.

However, it simply isn’t just a light aquatic affair, like so many other summer colognes. It does have a watery aspect to it, with the citrus and violet leaf. Though, that is a ‘greener’ kind of scent versus anything oceanic/salty.

Uomo has a masculine woodsy heart that is tempered by the violet note which reveals itself as the hours pass. The dry down period is a fresh woodsy scent, highlighted by the remaining citrus notes.

Can be kind of bold and too fresh for some. But, I think it is worth checking out. Really good performer as well. My full Uomo Review

Summer Citrus

Ermenegildo Zegna Acqua Di Bergamotto By Ermenegildo Zegna Edt Spray 1.7 Oz– Like some of the other scents on the list, Acqua Di Bergamotto, is a citrus based scent.

As per the name, the main player here is bergamot and is assisted by mandarin. The opening act and middle can come across as quite clean and being akin to a high-end bar of lemon soap.

But that’s not all there is to it. There is a nice salty aquatic note that reminds you of a gentle sea breeze, as well as some floral notes that linger slightly.

So, it starts as a fresh and sweeter sort of soap, that will turn into a floral one. The neroli and saltier aspects really combining with that citrus top. My Full Acqua di Bergamotto Review

Warm and Sweet 

Ermenegildo Zegna Intenso Eau De Toilette Spray for Men, 3.4 Ounce– Familiar to Armani Code, yet, different enough to be it’s own thing. To me, the composition is similar, but they come across quite a bit differently.

Especially, with the heightened cardamom in this one. Intenso is smooth with a solid dark feel that is balanced by a citrus sweet undertone.

Not the best longevity (despite the name), but it can be double sprayed, as it isn’t very expensive. Cardamom, tonka bean, and iris come together to give it a warm, sweet, and slightly powdery quality.

Sharp and Clean

Z Zegna By Ermenegildo Zegna For Men. Eau De Toilette Spray 3.4-Ounce Bottle– A very fresh and woodsy scent with herbal spices and bergamot opening. It’s a clean and casual fragrance with decent longevity but a light touch.

Z has a very lovely rosemary note, which gives it a familiar fresh spiciness. The structure of this one is quite similar to others on the market. However, the lightness and watery/semi-aquatic undertones make Z an enjoyable wear.

The opening can feel sharp as it does contain the citrus note, along with rosemary and pepper. However, it balances out nicely while remaining relatively simple.

Awesome Vanilla

Ermenegildo Zegna Essenze Bourbon Vanilla 4.2 Oz Eau De Toilette Spray For Men– A sweet and smooth vanilla with hints of spice provided by a ginger note.

There is a certain herbal quality to Bourbon Vanilla but the tonka bean creaminess and bit of cocoa bean make it a special niche scent. Essenze Bourbon Vanilla, does have somewhat of a lotion-like vibe at times, especially early on.

Though it stays sweet and creamy, the latter stages reveal a nice vetiver and woody base, that gives this fragrance a more substantial feeling. It’s been discontinued, but you can find bottles around still.

Citrus Vetiver

Ermenegildo Zegna – Haitian Vetiver Fragrance – Eau De Toilette – 4.2 FL OZ / 125 ML– One for the vetiver lovers. It’s got that familiar green aroma with a dry slightly smoky wood. It’s low key great, if you can still find a bottle.

Hatian Vetiver has a great earthiness, while also having a very bright citrus top and the persistent undertones of iris coming through. It is an interesting combination, giving this Zegna a bit of a distinction when compared to many other vetiver colognes.

Mandarin Fresh

Essenze Collection Sicilian Mandarin By Ermenegildo Zegna EDT 4.2 Oz Spray.– A really great mandarin note that feels much more like orange peel than the interior of the fruit itself.

Yet, it remains juicy with an addition of bergamot, and an rich woodsy quality provided by the oakmoss. A definite wear for the summertime. Sicilian Mandarin doesn’t have the same level of sharpness versus the other Zegna colognes, which is a nice change of pace.

Also, the mint note here gives it blended freshness and there’s a woodsy sensibility, later on in the wear. This is a different sort of citrus fragrance, not completely abnormal, but it stands apart and is an awesome example of that mandarin orange.