Fragrances

A*Men Ultra Zest by Thierry Mugler

by

In this review, I am going to take a closer look at another Thierry Mugler men’s fragrance, this one from the Angel Men lineup: A*Men Ultra Zest. How does this cologne smell? What are its notes? WHen should it be worn? Is it even worth giving a try?

What does A* Men Ultra Zest Smell Like?

Notes include: tangerine, red orange, cinnamon, tonka bean, patchouli, vanilla, coffee, ginger, mint, black pepper

Click here to try: Thierry Mugler A Men Ultra Zest Eau de Toilette Spray, 3.4 Ounce

My Full Ultra Zest Review

Ultra Zest opens up with a great juicy citrus blend of the orange and tangerine notes. I can also detect a very light patchouli note and coffee in the background.

When I first read the notes and saw that it contained both citrus and coffee, I figured that it might be close to Polo Red Extreme, but that’s not the case as the coffee isn’t heavy enough and the citrus is much more intense here.

After a few minutes, the orange is still very strong but I start to detect the emergence of vanilla, mint, and tonka bean. It is a cool and creamy sensation, which I think works very well with the orange and tangerine.

Honestly, if you can’t stand those two notes, you’re more than likely not going to enjoy Ultra Zest but I am totally digging a pure men’s scent with those two juicy notes.

Further along in the wear, Ultra Zest becomes a warmer fragrance. It does still have a bit of a minty cool air about it, but the patchouli, cinnamon, and coffee really start to properly surround the orange and tangerine. It’s a smooth and light spice, not overbearing at all.

What it dries down to is citrus, patchouli, coffee, and the tonka bean/vanilla combination. There is still a very light spice, but again, it’s nothing too powerful. It all blends together extremely well and is definitely a balanced fragrance.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, I’d say that Zest has moderate sillage. It will be noticeable throughout the wear and can project itself well for the first few hours, before pulling back closer to the skin. I wish it stayed powerful throughout, because I really enjoy this scent.

The longevity is pretty good though, I can get 7 hours out of the wear. Not the best of the best, but it’s decent enough for most purposes.

Seasonally, it’s another one that is good for year round. Unlike many of the other Mugler colognes, this one can venture into summertime and thrive there.

Meanwhile, it is also good in the cold. The citrus, mint, and ginger let it go into summer while the rest of the notes beef it up a bit for winter wear.

It is a versatile fragrance, not too powerful to not be able to wear it at work or school, but also attractive enough to wear it during the nightlife. It’s sweet and creamy disposition seems enjoyable for women, and it is for sure something that I loved to smell on me during the day.

Overall Impressions of Ultra Zest

Overall, do I like A*Men Ultra Zest? Yes, I like this a lot. I know that it has been discontinued, but that’s a shame, because it is a very good cologne. Yes, I wish it had slightly better performance, because that would take it into greatness territory.

You can of course, still find bottles online, and if you love orange but want to take them into another direction from most men’s fragrances, Ultra Zest is what you should be looking for.

Update: You can get a fragrance from the Dua Brand, that is inspired by this, called simply, Zest. I had a hybrid version of this blended with their version of Pure Havane.

The tangerine and orange notes here are awesome. They have the right juiciness and refreshing quality that the name calls for. Beyond that the supporting notes like: vanilla, tonka bean, coffee, and patchouli help to give this one even more substance and depth that is really pleasant.

Ultra Zest flew a little too under the radar the be continued beyond its limited run. It really is a nice cologne and checks all of the marks of an fantastic citrus-based scent.

Mambo for Men by Liz Claiborne

by

I have already completed my list of the best Liz Claiborne fragrances for guys and on that list was the scent, Mambo. As such, I thought that it’d only be appropriate to do a review on this cologne and post it along side of the list.

This is the last review of the most recent batch of samples that I received, so I will have to get another order in and keep on posting more fragrance ratings. Mambo has been one of the more popular inexpensive options from Liz Claiborne, but is it actually worth a try?

What does Mambo by Liz Claiborne Smell Like?

FullSizeRender (36)

Notes include: lime, bergamot, thyme, cedar, cinnamon leaf, sandalwood, sage, lavender, patchouli

Click here to try: Mambo by Liz Claiborne for Men, Cologne Spray, 3.4-Ounce

My Full Wear Review

Mambo is another inexpensive selection from Liz Claiborne and it is among the best from that brand’s line of scents. I like Mambo better than Bora Bora, but in my opinion it isn’t as good as the staple, Curve.

Mambo has a certain exotic energy to it that makes it a pleasant wear, especially at such a cheap price point. It is sweet and has a soapy quality that gives it a clean and expressive scent.

The opening of Mambo, is where you are going to find most of the citrus expressing itself. However, it never really takes on a juicy fruity smell. It is mixed with some light spice, but especially lavender in the beginning.

I tend to notice the smooth sweetness of the sandalwood and lavender as it blends with the lime and bergamot notes, which give it a non-sour citrus kick.

It’s kind of a floral cologne that is supported by citrus notes and made more masculine by the woodsy notes such as cedar. Mambo is a very warm type of scent, that has a noticeable Latin influence, with its exotic spice.

The exotic-smelling spice, is really just a mix of cinnamon, sage, musk, and patchouli. It is really difficult to distinguish between all of those notes, but the cinnamon and musk, are most noticeable. It’s fresh and not an overpoweringly heavy spiciness. Definitely tempered, by the citrus and floral notes.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Longevity wise, Mambo does a really good job at making it through the day. Usually, I have gotten over 6 hours of wear without any problem and often 8-9. So, it really brings the value, in that regard.

Also, it is a well-projecting cologne and not overwhelming at all. I’d say that it is slightly above average for most of the wear. A good ‘pop’ at the start and then slowly declining. The performance is a highlight with Mambo and probably a big factor in its long-term sales success.

It can be worn in casual settings, but also during a night out. That’s mainly what I would use it, if I were to keep it around. As a daily wear? Sure, it’s not too intrusive or anything, Mambo isn’t particularly formal though.

I’m not sure that it has a particular season of wear, I don’t think it feels right in the winter but I don’t know that it would hold up during a really hot summer day either. Maybe, best on a more moderate day.

Overall Impressions of Mambo

Overall, I would say Mambo is worth a try for guys on a budget. It’s not an earth-shattering scent but it performs well and is an attractive cologne.

For the price, one could try it out and use it as a daily wear or on certain occasions when you didn’t want to use your more expensive stuff.

Mambo is by no means one of my favorites, but I think that it has its place in some guys’ rotation. And for that, it is a solid inexpensive wear for men. I had a mini for a long time and never felt much like wearing it. I don’t hate it, but it didn’t have too much appeal to me.

It’s pretty middle of the road, across the board. That’s really what makes it a value play, Mambo just doesn’t do anything great.

The citrus can be nice early on. Sandalwood, lavender, and cinnamon provide a clean and fresh base for the other notes to operate off of. There are times here, where the scent is fairly enjoyable, but most of the time I’m indifferent to it.

Invictus Victory Elixir by Paco Rabanne

by

Invictus Victory Elixir is a 2023 release, coming off of the heels of the popular Invictus Victory. I received a small sample of this along with my order of 1 Million Royal. I was curious to try this one out, as I did enjoy Victory. How does Elixir smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Invictus Victory Elixir Smell Like?

Notes include: cardamom, black pepper, bergamot oil, lavender, incense, patchouli, vanilla, amber, and tonka bean

My Full Review

Here’s how Paco Rabanne describes it: Discover Invictus Victory Elixir, the pinnacle of intensity from Invictus, the new powerful fragrance for men by Paco Rabanne. A potent elixir made to push victory beyond limits. the time has come to embrace your moment of immortality. A rich, powerful, long-lasting nectar blending spicy woods and biting freshness, for the epic achiever. It’s the ultimate expression of victory. never stop winning.

So, right away this strikes me as being a much more concentrated version of Invictus Victory. That scent had a lot in common with the Pure XS colognes from Paco Rabanne, but Elixir sort of strips that away to a more focused point.

Victory had the pink pepper and lemon notes up top. Elixir kicks off with a warm, resinous, and vanilla blend. Black pepper is exchanged for the pink variety, but it only lasted a few minutes tops.

The amber accord provides some spice along with the resinous qualities, but it doesn’t hit you in the face with it. There is a light cardamom, but not too much of it.

The incense note, is also in Victory. However, I will say that I can’t detect much of it at all in Elixir. It was very present on my skin with Victory.

Very smooth with how warm it is and the creaminess of the vanilla note. I’m glad the vanilla is heavier in the weighting versus the tonka bean, as I think that it has a more enjoyable scent this way.

A few minutes in, this one starts to feel much sweeter. The way everything combines, it has almost a coconut finish to it. Nothing crazy or overwhelming, but it is there. More like dry coconut flakes than a watery fruit juice.

The dry down lightens up on that sweet/coconut aroma. I get more tonka bean, an increase in the amber, and a lavender note becoming fairly distinct. It was always in the mix, I think, but really wasn’t clear on its own until the middle of the wear. It sort of sits underneath everything else, until fading in the tail end.

That tail end? Pretty much a vanilla, tonka bean, amber, and general freshness. Warm, sort of sweet, but not a complete sweet and creamy mess. It’s nice, pretty basic, at this point.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here is nice and powerful. Definitely one to leave a scent trail in your wake. The projection off of the skin is great and could be nuclear with a full bottle. I did only have that tiny sample sprayer, but even with that, I can tell this one is going to be a beast.

The longevity also just keeps going. 9 hours at least. Maybe up to 11 or so, on my skin. I did eventually shower, but it was still very noticeably immediately prior to that. I’d have to test Elixir again to see exactly how long it lasts.

Nonetheless, expect a strong and long lasting performance out of this Invictus flanker.

Seasonally, this would be best in autumn and winter. Not strictly cold weather, but it’s probably best to avoid the heat. Kind of too thick and loud, to not be cloying in the middle of summer. Go with something else, then.

This is more of a casual or nightlife wear for younger guys. Not just teenagers, but it does have a youthful vibe, while still being one of the more well put together Invictus colognes.

Elixir is probably going to be pretty popular and has that very mass appealing sort of style. I can see this one being worn at bars and nightclubs around the world, in the next few years. Not super sexy, but it has its appeal.

Overall Impressions of Invictus Victory Elixir

Overall, do I like Victory Elixir? I do. Based on this one try, I’m not sure that I prefer it to the original Victory, however. Currently, I rate the smell as being equally enjoyable. I’ll see as I update this, if that changes or not.

Victory Elixir is for sure the better performer between them.

Like some of the other Paco Rabanne scents, this can have a bit of an annoying synthetic quality to it. Not too much of a problem here, but at times I can get tired of a fragrance like this. 1 Million Lucky and the original Invictus a bigger culprits, in this regard.

The aroma is pretty similar to Le Beau Le Parfum from JPG. However, this is better. It has the illusion of coconut, the amber, and tonka bean as the overlap between them. Elixir is a more pleasant and well done experience, in my opinion.

All in all, if you’re a fan of this series, you’ll almost certainly like this one. It’s among the best of them to me, even after this one try. It’s definitely worth trying out, at the very least.

Original Santal by Creed

by

Creed is a world renown luxury fragrance brand which has served the royalty and other assorted elites of the world for hundreds of years now. It is a design house known for it use of quality ingredients and rich and fragrant scents for both men and women which have stood the test of time.

While we have already taken a look at the top Creed fragrances and reviewed such popular scents as Aventus and Millesime Imperial, we are going to take a look at a lesser known commodity in this post, Original Santal. Santal is one that flies under the radar, but is it because it hasn’t been hyped up, or is it simply not that good?

Original Santal Overview

FullSizeRender (37)

Notes include: sandalwood, juniper berry, cinnamon, vanilla, coriander, rosemary, lavender, tonka bean 

Click here to try: Original Santal by Creed

My Review of Original Santal

Here’s how Creed describes it: Looking to Asia for inspiration, Olivier and Erwin combine Mysore sandalwood, fiery cinnamon, warm vanilla and tonka bean. A robust scent fit for both formal and casual occasions, Original Santal is destined to captivate a room. Prepare for compliments

Santal seems to be formulated as sort of a unisex perfume (I’m not sure if this is actually the case or not but I have seen it for sale as unisex). That being said, don’t expect something that is overly masculine, because that’s not what you’ll get.

What you will find is warmth, smoothness, with a spicy kick. The most noticeable notes for me are the sandalwood and the cinnamon, though, I also get a vanilla note that seems to balance out the composition.

Immediately, I was struck by how much this reminded me of Joop!, though, perhaps it is much more ‘natural’ and less synthetic than Joop in it’s smell. Also, Joop! is much heavier, less clean, and geared toward men and wouldn’t be presented as a unisex scent.

Since I am sort a fan of Joop!, as an inexpensive option for guys, I liked Santal right off the bat. The dry down doesn’t give off the same powdery feel that Joop! does but I feel that Santal is a  smoother fragrance as well.

It opens up with the cinnamon spice and the creamy smooth sandalwood note. It is fresh, while being warm, and there is a slight fruit aroma provided by the juniper berry.

Original Santal also has a resemblance to Mont Blanc Individuel, but this one is much better, and feels more substantial. Santal has a spicier profile at the opening with the cinnamon, but also the coriander note, which gives it a more dynamic warmth.

Santal starts off projecting rather well off of my skin and after 20-30 minutes the vanilla note seems to start kicking in more. There then comes a third wave of notes which I can distinctly detect the tonka bean and lavender, which presents a warmer and woodsy sensation to this cologne.

I have to say, Santal is very pleasant to wear.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

However, for me, Santal’s projection is bordering on average. The sillage falls in the lighter moderate part of the spectrum. It’s not going to really ever overwhelm, which I wouldn’t want it to, but some kind of power would be nice.

I don’t seem to get much longevity from it…maybe 4-5 hours. Perhaps, it will have better longevity on other guys’ skin but it really doesn’t last that long on mine. That is a disappointment because this is a nice scent.

It is a safe and versatile fragrance. It is more limited in terms of climate, as it’s at its best in the cooler weather. However, as far as on what occasion it can be worn, it is the type of cologne that can fit in almost anywhere.

Again, it’s not a sillage beast, so Santal isn’t going to go hard in a night club environment. Original Santal is an attractive scent and I have gotten complements from women, while wearing it. Is it super sexy? Not really, but it is one that draws people closer.

Also, on the negative side, it’s not a particularly unique or special fragrance either. Is a cleaner and probably better option than Joop? I’d say so but would I pay for a full bottle of Santal, at Creed prices versus Joop? I wouldn’t.

Not that I really want either, all that bad. Mont Blanc Individuel can also be had for a lot cheaper, if you want something quite similar.

I’d personally take the Joop! and buy another bottle of Guerlain and probably something else as well. I do like Santal a lot, just not at that pricing point and versus my many other options.

Overall Impressions of Original Santal

Is Santal worth a buy? On smell alone? I’d say, yes. At this price? Probably not, unless you don’t particularly mind the cost. It is a very nice fragrance, that really grew on me, the more I wore it.

I love a good cinnamon note and the early stages of Original Santal has it in spades. Obviously, the main attraction is the sandalwood note, which is lovely. But, I especially love the notes that are used in support of it.

Update: Coming back to this one, a few years later, I totally dig the way this one smells on me. It’s got such a smooth vibe. Still no luck, in the performance department. That 4-5 hour limit is really holding Santal back from being an absolute must from the Creed collection.

I really wish that it had better performance, because that would push into the definitely buy category. The sandalwood, cinnamon, vanilla, and tonka bean together are great.

Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy

by

Xeryus Rouge is a fragrance that I’ve encountered, owned, and enjoyed over the decades. My experience this one definitely precedes this website or even my real interest in perfume. Givenchy released this back in 1995 and it’s one that is still being sold, despite completely flying under the radar of most people.

I bought a bottle of this within the last year to try Xeryus Rouge out again and see if I still liked it. How does it smell? Does the performance still hold up? Is this 1990s classic, still a worthwhile scent today?

What does Xeryus Rouge Smell Like?

Notes include: red pepper, cactus, kumquat, cedar, geranium, musk, tarragon, sandalwood

Click here to try: Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy

My Full Review

Here’s how Givenchy describes it: Warm and intense, Xeryus Rouge is a classic, Woody-Oriental designed for a man who embraces his freedom and is a risk-taker at heart. His fiery, intuitive sensuality is irresistibly captivating with an underlying mystery that cannot be resisted. Succulent kumquat and green cactus are dusted with red pepper and crushed cedar wood for a seductive scent that lingers.

The word is that this one has been reformulated. Personally, I can’t really tell since I’m going off of memories from a bottle that I owned long ago. Memories I don’t entirely trust, so, I can’t really compared an older version versus what is offered today.

Still, my new bottle smells pretty much as I recall the old one.

I did notice that kumquat has been added to where it used to be mandarin orange. The kumquat reminds me of that one found in Gucci Guilty Love, just way tempered by the other notes in the mix.

The opening is bright, juicy, greenish, and herbal. Cactus is definitely in play, not letting the kumquat get too sharp or dominant in the blend.

While you do have this juicy/watery quality from the fruits up top, Rouge will always have this warm spiciness and freshness to it, even at these early stages. Red pepper and geranium start to show up big on my skin, 10-15 minutes after application.

Those notes are there from the initial spray, but some of the kumquat and cactus needs to back off before each really comes into their own.

The red pepper has the edge early, but that shifts quite a bit, and geranium starts to pop. It’s an interesting effect with the cactus note still hanging around. Much greener, fresher, and has more of a herbal undertone.

Rouge becomes drier, more of a classic aromatic and woody fragrance. The citrus really falls off, as does the red pepper. You will still have a slight spice, but this leans towards the fresh woods end of the spectrum.

Cedar, geranium, musk, cactus, and some light sandalwood. That’s basically the order of the notes by strength in the dry down. A sweet woodsy aroma, masculine, almost barbershop (minus the usual lavender).

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Rouge is pretty moderate with how it hangs in the air and the scent trail that’ll leave behind. This isn’t a heavy sort of fragrance. Lighter and fresher. Projects from the skin 5-7 feet at its max. Then, will slowly reel itself in, until it’s in skin scent territory.

I will say, it can be deceptive. You might not smell it on yourself and then someone will complement you.

On my skin, this one lasts in the 6.5-7.5 hour range. Those last few hours definitely aren’t powerful, but the fragrance is still there. I think I used to get a couple of hours more with my older bottle, so it wasn’t completely gutted. Just a step back.

Seasonally, I really like this one anytime other than the height of summer. That warmer opening, lends itself to the autumn and winter months. However, it becomes greener and fresher, which works in the springtime too.

I’ve worn it outside on warm days in the spring and Xeryus Rouge held up well.

xeryus rouge review

Rouge has a classic masculine style while still having its modern edge. This one can be a daily wear and venture out into the evening if necessary. It’s not a nightlife cologne per se, but it wouldn’t be totally out of place either.

It’s a likeable scent that I do get complements with. Not completely ‘sexy’, but it has its charm and appeal. The fresh aromatic smell that comes through past the opening act, is one that people do enjoy. It didn’t last for nearly 30 years, without reason.

Overall Impressions of Xeryus Rouge

Overall, do I like this one? Yes, it’s no one that I wear all of the time, but it has been a fragrance that I’ve come back to multiple times over many years. Though, it might not be everyone’s cup of tea.

That being said, it has been around since 1995, so it has plenty of fans. There’s nothing that smells exactly like Xeryus Rouge. That red pepper, light kumquat, aromatic freshness, the cedar, and the unique cactus note…what else has that?

Sure, Hot Water by Davidoff has overlap with its style, but even that just strikes me as being quite distinct from Rouge.

The dry down is more typical of other colognes out there. Though, this Givenchy just always seems to have its own unique aspects which come through.

The performance is pretty good. It was never a monster in terms of power or a crazy long-lasting scent either. It’s fine, I didn’t have to pay a lot, and the performance is good enough.

Xeryus Rouge is one that is worth checking out. I did notice that it is now no longer for sale on Givenchy’s website (maybe it’ll return). I pulled that description of it from the site many months ago before publishing, but there are plenty of bottles available online for a good price.

Try it out and experience this mid-1990s gem.