Phantom Parfum by Paco Rabanne

Phantom Parfum is the follow up flanker to the popular, robot-bottled scent, Phantom by Paco Rabanne. This cologne was released by the brand in 2023. I bought a sample of it to test out a while back for the site. How does Phantom Parfum smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a try?


What does Phantom Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, lemon, rhubarb, cardamom, lavender, patchouli, vanilla, geranium, balsam, cedar

Click here to try: Phantom Parfum


My Full Review

To open things up, we get a stronger use of the citrus notes up top. That lemon, bergamot, and semi-tropical aroma is back from the original, longer lasting, and better than before.

With that, you get a rhubarb and cardamom in lieu of the apple note. It’s got a spicy aspect from that cardamom. Once the fruitiness has toned down, this one feels fresher and colder than Phantom.

Slightly greenish undertones, in the early stages. Rhubarb and geranium really add that cold streak to things.

Another part that will be noticed, is the early emergence of the lavender, which will play more of a role later on.

At some point, the fruitiness and much of the sweetness will fade from the top spot. For me, I get a lavender and woodsy mix in the middle act with stronger vanilla as we push further into the wear.

To me, the dry down is a vanilla and woods blend with some latent citrus that is still hanging around. Just like a spritz of lemon juice or something to that effect.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Between this and Phantom EDP, Parfum does indeed have a more powerful reach and heavier sillage. Yet, it’s not that much stronger.

I will say though, Parfum doesn’t lose what power it has quite as quickly and this one will stay in that upper moderate range of projection for longer than the original. Definitely doesn’t decay at the same speed as EDP.

On my skin, I have gotten 8-9 hours of wear out of this Parfum version. It is better than the original, and gives you good, yet not elite levels of staying power. But, it’s still worthy of some praise on the performance front.

Seasonally, this one is still the same as EDP. It’s an autumn and winter wear, that doesn’t hold up all that well in heat and humidity.

Within that context, this still skews younger and feels more like a nightlife wear, even if its fine to have on in the daytime. It’s sweeter side, should have some mass appeal and be able to pull a few complements, even if Phantom Parfum isn’t the best cologne around.


Overall Impressions of Phantom Parfum

Overall, do I like Phantom Parfum? It’s okay. I never was that into the original Phantom EDP, and while this one is the better of the two, it’s not a massively improved fragrance.

The opening is what I liked in the original and Parfum gives me more of that, in a longer and more citrusy style.

The dry down is a big dose of vanilla, some woods, and a now generic sweetness from the top notes. That initial ‘tropical’ sort of smell isn’t there anymore and it has the same vibe as any number of Paco Rabanne scents after that.

If you didn’t care for the first one, this probably won’t do much to sway you to getting on board with the series. If you liked the EDP, I’d say to give this one a try, as it does everything better with some differences along the way.

The performance delivers what you’ll need for almost any situation, so, you do get your money’s worth from that end of things.

If you’ve never come across a Phantom fragrance before. I wouldn’t suggest blind buying this scent unless you get a steep discount. Even Phantom Parfum, seems to be mostly a love/hate release, depending on the person.

6 Perfumes Similar to By the Fireplace

By the Fireplace is one of the most popular fragrance from the Replica line by Maison Margiela. It is a winter staple with a sweet and smoky blend of chestnut, cloves, vanilla, and more.

While it’s a great scent on its own, you might want an alternative to it at some point. Either something that smells similar or is a cheaper ‘inspired by’ option. This is my page on the site dedicated to both for By the Fireplace.


What Fragrances Smell Similar to Replica’s By the Fireplace?


Stoking the Fire

Dua’s Fireplace– Fireplace is the Dua Brand’s take on the By the Fireplace formula. They also have other combination fragrances that mixes this scent with other popular perfumes.

If you’re looking for an inspired by aroma at a cheaper price point, Dua’s Fireplace can definitely hit the mark.

It’s going to have the same notes overlapping with the Maison Margiela fragrance and they usually get the weightings of each of them pretty much correct. As always, it may not be 100% the same, but Fireplace will be close enough that the differences are negligible.

As an extrait de parfum concentration, this also means that the performance should be improved or at least equal.


Cozy Chestnut

Woody Chestnut by Dossier– Here’s another inspired option, this time from Dossier. They usually make some really nice fragrances based on popular designer scent and this one is no different.

Woody Chestnut is made up of the same notes, which they describe as smelling like, ‘a cup of cocoa on a snowy day’. Well, that’s the effect that we’re looking for with a replicant of our Replica target.

The price point is great here, since they currently have one size of this formula (as of writing). Well worth the try.


A Night Out

Campfire Nights by Alexandria– Here’s yet another option that tries to mimic much of what you get with the Maison Margiela scent.

I haven’t tried this one from Alexandria, but I have tried others from them and they do a fantastic job at getting close to the designer originals.

One thing I do like about them, aside from the high quality, is the options as far as sizing goes. You can get a hold of a larger bottle or start smaller for cheaper.


Nutty Velvet

Velvet by Commodity– The one that we’re looking for is the Velvet which comes in the black bottle. It is sometimes listed as Velvet Expressive, don’t buy the white bottle if you want something like By the Fireplace.

Is it one to one the same as our target? No. It does have a lot of overlap, though, and uses some close substitutes in the process. For instance, here it is an almond instead of chestnut.

Velvet is also softer with a greater powdery finish to it. Heliotrope provides that. There is also a light coconut note up top. Still quite a bit of the vanilla, woods, but less of an ambery dry down than Fireplace.

Oh, and a rose note to boot! Again, this one is not the same. However, it hits some of the same beats, but with a rosier and woodier aroma.


Melting into Winter

Melting Embers by Oakcha– I’m adding this Oakcha inspired take on By the Fireplace to the list. I haven’t tried this one out and I do still need to get a hold of some Oakcha perfumes like this to put them through their paces.

However, they have a good reputation of coming close to matching the fragrances that people are after.

The price is within the same range as the Dua and the Dossier options, maybe somewhat cheaper or more expensive depending on any promotions these brands are running when you’re checking.


A Little Different, A Little Oud

Ameer Al Oudh Intense– This one isn’t an exact match of Fireplace. However, it does a really good job at providing a similar experience, while maintaining uniqueness of its own.

Ameer Al Oudh Intense is woodier, has some smokiness but perhaps not the same roasting quality, and still has a good sugar and vanilla mix. One thing it lacks for sure, is the chestnut note of the Replica fragrance.

I figured that it would have more oud and therefore a greater smokiness, but that’s not the case. The oud is there, but is pretty light. Still, this is a warm and comfortingly sweet woody fragrance, with good performance and inexpensive price point.


Kalan by Parfums de Marly

Kalan is a Parfums de Marly release, that I never got around to when it came out back in 2019. I’ve had the sample for a long while now, just sitting in a box, so I figure it’s high time that I gave it a full review. How does this one smell? Does Kalan last long? Is it worth a try?


What does Kalan Smell Like?

Notes include: blood orange, black pepper, spices, orange blossom, lavender, sandalwood, moss, woods, amber, tonka bean

Click here to try: Kalan by PdM

kalan marly review


My Full Review

Here’s how PdM describes it: Intense and subtle at once- Kalan surprises with a sparkling opening, blending black pepper and spices with fresh notes of blood orange. The fragrances is embodied through a heart of orange blossom and lavender, while it evolves as facets of white sandalwood unfold and drape into notes of moss and precious wood.

The opening is a blast of the blood orange note and the spices. The black pepper is going to be the most noticeable under the juicy and sparkling citrus. But, there are some other spices lurking about.

Two other notes that I pick up early are: orange blossom and moss. The mossy aspect of this really comes through in the opening act, on my skin.

The next phase will be a mix of the moss, lavender, and the remaining blood orange influence. For me, most of the spice has dissipated by this point in the wear. It feels like a woodsy floral blend with some sweetness and amber peaking in.

As we move forward in the wear, earthy woods that is softened by lavender, with hints of amber is basically what I get. Lots of sandalwood, moss, and just sort of damp and generic smelling wood notes.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

With Kalan, I do get a pretty bold start. A strong projection and solid scent trail in your wake for an hour or so.

After that, it stays above average with its performance. I can detect it a good 4-6 feet from where I sprayed Kalan on a t-shirt, after a few hours. It of course will diminish into something more intimate, but it takes a while to get there.

On my skin, this will go up to about 9 hours. It may last a little longer or a tad less than that, but eight or nine is what Kalan seems to be capable of. Not too bad with its longevity.

Seasonally, this could be worn basically anytime outside of the height of summer. It’s fine when it’s temperate to warm out, but the hotter days wouldn’t be ideal for Kalan.

It’s spice, citrus, and woodiness to provide a good blend that can work in autumn and winter, while also being fine when things get somewhat warmer.

With that, Kalan can work in daytime and nighttime, but I don’t find it to be a particularly sexy fragrance. Again, it has the boldness to serve as a nightlife option, but there are better fragrances for that.

It’s not so heavy that it can’t work as an office scent. Though, I’d still go light with it, in that situation.


Overall Impressions of Kalan

Overall, do I like Kalan? Honestly, it’s not for me. It’s a pretty unique scent, isn’t going to have mass appeal, and this PdM isn’t one that I enjoyed wearing. It wasn’t terrible, but I never got into it.

Even as something with a unique style, there’s nothing about Kalan that I liked all that much. The lavender, amber, moss, and woods in the dry down is probably the best part to my nose and even that isn’t too exciting.

The opening feels messy and off-putting. Peppery moss with blood orange, isn’t all that appealing.

The performance does well enough for something at this price point. It’s not amazing, but if you do happen to enjoy the smell, it doesn’t just completely disappear in an hour or whatever.

This is a fragrance that I suggest testing before you buy, to see if you’re one of the people who will actually love wearing this. Most of you can skip it and not miss anything, though. At the high Parfums de Marly price, it’s not really one to blind buy for the majority of people.

Sauvage Elixir vs. Bleu de Chanel

Sauvage Elixir has quickly become a very popular flanker from the top selling Sauvage line by Dior. Bleu de Chanel has been a long time favorite from Dior’s French competitor and these two can often be the final choices of men looking to buy, even if the formulas are quite differenct.

In this post, I want to compare the two colognes. I’m going to use the Eau de Parfum version of Bleu, as I think that’s probably the best of them overall. How does it compare to Sauvage Elixir? Which lasts longer? Which is the better buy?


Tale of the Tape: Bleu de Chanel vs. Sauvage Elixir

Sauvage Elixir

Notes include: grapefruit, wood, lavender, nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon, patchouli, vetiver

Click here to try: Sauvage Elixir at Macy’s

Read my review: Sauvage Elixir


Bleu de Chanel EDP

Notes include: grapefruit, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, tonka bean, ginger, mint, and more

Click here to try: Bleu De Chaneⅼ Eau De Parfum Pour Homme Spray 1.7 Fl. OZ. / 50ML.

Read my Review: Bleu de Chanel EDP


Opening

Bleu de Chanel EDP kicks things off with citrus, including lemon, but the grapefruit note is actually the stronger of the two.

Bleu will also start to show off its mint note. However, the ginger and pink pepper, have a stronger spiced influence. A little later, you get a smoky incense, and warm amber.

With Sauvage Elixir, you get a ton of spice. In the Dior fragrance it’s: cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg. At the top, there is a lighter grapefruit versus the EDT version’s heavier use of citrus.

And especially less citrus than Bleu de Chanel.

The next phase will have more of the lavender and some sweetness from licorice and amber. Sauvage Elixir is spicy, woody, with enough sweetness to change it up. Lots going on in the mix.

Which is better? The opening of Elixir is rather unique and super bold. However, I do prefer the more balanced use of citrus and spice with the Chanel cologne.

Edge: Bleu


Projection

Bleu EDP, is strong, but doesn’t have a crazy powerful projecting ability. In fact, as it wears on, it’s pretty moderate. You’ll get a nice scent bubble, a few hours of creating a scent trail. Bleu de Chanel just isn’t going to overpower a room.

Elixir just might, however. Elixir starts off very powerfully, with a large projection radius, and it maintains a high level for hours on end. Yes, it does settle after that first punch, but it’ll stay stronger than the Chanel for the duration.

Edge: Elixir


Longevity

This category is a clear win for Elixir. It’s one of the best performing mainstream designer fragrances out there. When I’ve worn it, I’ve easily gotten to 12 hours of wear.

It goes further than that, but I take a shower before I find out exactly where it tails off. Elixir is well into the double digit hour mark without issue.

Bleu de Chanel EDP definitely isn’t a bad performer, it just gets overwhelmed by the heavier monster from Dior. With Bleu EDP, I get about 8 hours, each time I’ve worn it.

Honestly, good enough for almost any purpose, just not to the same level.

Edge: Elixir


Versatility

Bleu EDP can go year round, with when you can use it, but is just okay when it’s really hot. Nonetheless, Bleu is better in a variety of climates than is, Sauvage Elixir.

Elixir is built for the autumn and winter months. It’s not like the original Sauvage with its ability to to pair well with warmer weather.

Bleu is also much better as an office scent or a formal-type of fragrance. It isn’t just limited to that, though, as it also fits while wearing a t-shirt and jeans.

Sauvage Elixir works in casual or nightlife scenarios, versus the office. Bleu is more of a daytime fragrance, but wouldn’t be out of place at night, since it is an attractive scent.

Between the two, Bleu has the greater versatility.

Edge: Bleu


Overall Scent

Overall, which is better? I actually like each of these a lot. However, I do think that Bleu de Chanel EDP will be a better buy for most people versus Sauvage Elixir.

Mainly, Bleu just has a wider appeal. Elixir is the more unique of the two, but that spice and licorice won’t appeal to everyone, especially at that high concentration.

Bleu while not able to match the power and longevity of the Dior, is no slouch itself. Which combined with its more expansive use case makes it a pretty easy pick.

Finally, I do kind of prefer the actual scent of Bleu de Chanel to Sauvage Elixir. I enjoy the massive spice of Elixir and can even get into the sweeter licorice accord. You don’t get to much of a similar perfume to Dior Sauvage, in smell, but the notes are mostly rearraigned.

But, the clean citrus and amber of Bleu EDP is a tad more appealing. Even if it too, has seen a host of Bleu de Chanel ‘clones’ come to market.

Winner: Bleu de Chanel EDP

8 Best Smelling Acqua di Parma Fragrances for Men

Acqua di Parma has been around for a long long time now. They have a wide range of scents that bring forth the smells of the Mediterranean, particularly citrus notes native to the region. In this post, I want to break down their catalog into 8 colognes for guys, that I consider to be the best of the bunch.

Now, I have included some unisex entries on the list, as Acqua di Parma has plenty of those and they do indeed rank among their best.


What Are the Best Acqua di Parma Perfumes?

Best Overall Acqua di Parma Scent and Summer

Acqua Di Parma Blue Mediterraneo Fico Di Amalfi Eau de Toilette Spray for Men, 5 Ounce– This one gives you that familiar Blu Mediterraneo burst of citrus notes, including grapefruit and bergamot. Then, the outstanding fig note comes along as the dominant force, to create a sweet and unique experience.

The grapefruit and lemon are strongest at the top, but it leans more grapefruit, than the other perfumes on this list. Once the citrus settles down, it plays very well off of the fig, and light cedar base.

I don’t always like fig in fragrances, but this has to be one of the best examples, of how to do it right. Fico di Amalfi is a fragrance which can be worn by absolutely everyone, very unisex, and a magnificent summer perfume.


Best Winter Fragrance

Acqua Di Parma Blue Mediterraneo Mandorlo Di Sicilia Eau de Toilette Spray, 5 Ounce– One of the unisex entries on the list and while it does sit slightly more toward the feminine side, it is still a very nice scent for the cold weather.

Almond and vanilla are paired to create a warm and lightly enveloping aroma, that has a sweet candy-like quality.

This one reminds me of these little root beer candies, that I ate sometimes, as a child. Orange, almond, and the vanilla come together to give it a sweet, somewhat nutty, fizziness.

Akin to carbonation. Mandorlo is fresh and dries down, mostly as vanilla, with a powdered sugar quality. The sillage is fairly light, but it can last for 6-7 hours, on my skin.  My Full Review is Here


Most Popular Men’s Cologne

Acqua Di Parma Essenza Eau De Cologne Spray for Men, 3.4 Ounce–  A shockingly clean and refined composition of citrus and herbal/floral notes. Essenza screams class.

With it’s fantastic performance, this is one to reach for during the warmer months of the year, and shares a lot of similarities with Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino Forte.

In this one, you get plenty of orange, grapefruit, and bergamot. Naturally, this is put together with neroli, as is so common in summertime scents. The citrus at opening is juicy and somewhat sharp, then, it dries down more into a soapy sort of scent.

Especially later in the wear, you can pick up rosemary and oakmoss, but Essenza is very well-blended and can be difficult to decipher. Nonetheless, you get yourself a classically styled unisex perfume, that is highly attractive though not heavy-handed.


Classic Fragrance for Him

Acqua Di Parma Cologne Spray for Men, 3.4 Ounce– The original which traces its roots back to 1916. Features citrus with notes of rosemary and lavender. A classic clean with woodsy undertones, Colonia is sharp and well put together.

Colonia can be pretty strong with the lemon at first, but it needs a few minutes to settle, and have the lavender note come out fully. This has that old school barbershop type of character, with light musk in the dry down, and the rosemary peaking through at times.

This isn’t going to be everyone’s cup of tea; however, Colonia can still bring a pleasant experience after all of these decades. This is going to be for guys, who want a change of pace from the more modern or unisex fragrances on the market.


Most Underrated Acqua di Parma Perfume

Acqua Di Parma Blue Mediterraneo Arancia Di Capri Eau De Toilette Spray for Men, 5 Ounce– A super citrus blend of oranges, grapefruit, and bergamot. Arancia di Capri, is a breath of fresh air and energy when applied, and enjoys such a naturalistic feel.

Clean, upbeat, and vibrant. It opens up, with those juicy citrus notes at the top of the composition.

These are the dominant notes for the first 20 minutes and are paired with, a light musk. Then, a sweet caramel note begins to emerge and join the mandarin orange note, as the main attractions. The other citrus notes fade quite a bit.

The fragrance smells absolutely wonderful. However, while the sillage starts off pretty powerful, it becomes a skin scent shortly thereafter. Not the best performing (on my skin, anyway), but definitely one of the best smelling Acqua fragrances.   My full review of Arancia di Capri


Best Masculine/ Intense Cologne

Acqua Di Parma Colonia Intensa 3.4 oz Eau de Cologne Spray– A woody and slightly spicy flanker of the original Colonia. This also shares the citrus notes but has a blend of leather, cardamom, and ginger which gives it that bit of kick.

It opens up with that same familiar blend of citrus notes, plenty of lemon, with lime coming through.

This is joined by that warm spice of cardamom and the fresh/cool spice of ginger. As it moves along, the leather and woody notes, take on a more prominent role while the citrus falls back.

It’s fresh, rich, dark, and full of a spicy edge. Leather, woody, spice, with an amber tone, and the citrus still hanging around somewhat.


Fizzy Clean

Chinotto di Liguria– Just reading the notes, before trying this out, I was afraid that this would be similar to Versace Eros Flame. Since that also features an opening of mandarin orange and chinotto notes.

But, this is actually quite different and has none of that overwhelming amber note, which drives me nuts with Flame.

The opening has a nice burst of orange, but that’s overshadowed by the rosemary and chinotto. It’s kind of fizzy, fresh, and has an herbal aroma. Which, usually plays very nicely off of a citrus note.

Less of a sweet fragrance, having more bitter highlights throughout. The base is a soapy clean musk, with the fresh greenish ingredients giving this one life. Not the best performance, but a really nice fragrance for the right guy.


Leather Goods

Leather by Acqua di Parma– Leather is a release that came out much more recently than others on the list. If you want a rich and quite realistic smelling leather note, from your fragrance, you can give this one a go.

Like Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford, you get a raspberry note up top. But, in this one, it is flanked by two citrus notes. It’s also much woodier and floral than the Tom Ford offering.

While rose and citrus play roles here, this isn’t always a clean leather scent. It can be dark, rough, and even has an earthy/dirtiness/smoky aroma as you get to the middle of the wear.

Not an option that will appeal to everyone, but this could be the top pick of the bunch, for some of you.