By Designer

Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy

by

Xeryus Rouge is a fragrance that I’ve encountered, owned, and enjoyed over the decades. My experience this one definitely precedes this website or even my real interest in perfume. Givenchy released this back in 1995 and it’s one that is still being sold, despite completely flying under the radar of most people.

I bought a bottle of this within the last year to try Xeryus Rouge out again and see if I still liked it. How does it smell? Does the performance still hold up? Is this 1990s classic, still a worthwhile scent today?

What does Xeryus Rouge Smell Like?

Notes include: red pepper, cactus, kumquat, cedar, geranium, musk, tarragon, sandalwood

Click here to try: Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy

My Full Review

Here’s how Givenchy describes it: Warm and intense, Xeryus Rouge is a classic, Woody-Oriental designed for a man who embraces his freedom and is a risk-taker at heart. His fiery, intuitive sensuality is irresistibly captivating with an underlying mystery that cannot be resisted. Succulent kumquat and green cactus are dusted with red pepper and crushed cedar wood for a seductive scent that lingers.

The word is that this one has been reformulated. Personally, I can’t really tell since I’m going off of memories from a bottle that I owned long ago. Memories I don’t entirely trust, so, I can’t really compared an older version versus what is offered today.

Still, my new bottle smells pretty much as I recall the old one.

I did notice that kumquat has been added to where it used to be mandarin orange. The kumquat reminds me of that one found in Gucci Guilty Love, just way tempered by the other notes in the mix.

The opening is bright, juicy, greenish, and herbal. Cactus is definitely in play, not letting the kumquat get too sharp or dominant in the blend.

While you do have this juicy/watery quality from the fruits up top, Rouge will always have this warm spiciness and freshness to it, even at these early stages. Red pepper and geranium start to show up big on my skin, 10-15 minutes after application.

Those notes are there from the initial spray, but some of the kumquat and cactus needs to back off before each really comes into their own.

The red pepper has the edge early, but that shifts quite a bit, and geranium starts to pop. It’s an interesting effect with the cactus note still hanging around. Much greener, fresher, and has more of a herbal undertone.

Rouge becomes drier, more of a classic aromatic and woody fragrance. The citrus really falls off, as does the red pepper. You will still have a slight spice, but this leans towards the fresh woods end of the spectrum.

Cedar, geranium, musk, cactus, and some light sandalwood. That’s basically the order of the notes by strength in the dry down. A sweet woodsy aroma, masculine, almost barbershop (minus the usual lavender).

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Rouge is pretty moderate with how it hangs in the air and the scent trail that’ll leave behind. This isn’t a heavy sort of fragrance. Lighter and fresher. Projects from the skin 5-7 feet at its max. Then, will slowly reel itself in, until it’s in skin scent territory.

I will say, it can be deceptive. You might not smell it on yourself and then someone will complement you.

On my skin, this one lasts in the 6.5-7.5 hour range. Those last few hours definitely aren’t powerful, but the fragrance is still there. I think I used to get a couple of hours more with my older bottle, so it wasn’t completely gutted. Just a step back.

Seasonally, I really like this one anytime other than the height of summer. That warmer opening, lends itself to the autumn and winter months. However, it becomes greener and fresher, which works in the springtime too.

I’ve worn it outside on warm days in the spring and Xeryus Rouge held up well.

xeryus rouge review

Rouge has a classic masculine style while still having its modern edge. This one can be a daily wear and venture out into the evening if necessary. It’s not a nightlife cologne per se, but it wouldn’t be totally out of place either.

It’s a likeable scent that I do get complements with. Not completely ‘sexy’, but it has its charm and appeal. The fresh aromatic smell that comes through past the opening act, is one that people do enjoy. It didn’t last for nearly 30 years, without reason.

Overall Impressions of Xeryus Rouge

Overall, do I like this one? Yes, it’s no one that I wear all of the time, but it has been a fragrance that I’ve come back to multiple times over many years. Though, it might not be everyone’s cup of tea.

That being said, it has been around since 1995, so it has plenty of fans. There’s nothing that smells exactly like Xeryus Rouge. That red pepper, light kumquat, aromatic freshness, the cedar, and the unique cactus note…what else has that?

Sure, Hot Water by Davidoff has overlap with its style, but even that just strikes me as being quite distinct from Rouge.

The dry down is more typical of other colognes out there. Though, this Givenchy just always seems to have its own unique aspects which come through.

The performance is pretty good. It was never a monster in terms of power or a crazy long-lasting scent either. It’s fine, I didn’t have to pay a lot, and the performance is good enough.

Xeryus Rouge is one that is worth checking out. I did notice that it is now no longer for sale on Givenchy’s website (maybe it’ll return). I pulled that description of it from the site many months ago before publishing, but there are plenty of bottles available online for a good price.

Try it out and experience this mid-1990s gem.

Wanted EDT by Azzaro

by

I recently sampled a fairly new fragrance release from 2016, Wanted by Azzaro. The bottle struck me as unique but also kind of lame, with it’s gun barrel shape and motif. Anyways, I don’t particularly care about the bottle, as long as the juice inside is attractive. With that in mind, I want to do my latest review of a cologne on this one from the house of Azzaro.

As usual, I am going to cover what’s in it, how it smells, how it performs, when it should be worn, and whether or not I think that Wanted is worth a purchase. Note: I am revisiting this post a few years later, to update my thoughts, after trying this again recently.

What does Azzaro Wanted Smell Like?

Notes include: tonka bean, lemon, cardamom, vetiver, juniper, ginger, geranium, mint, amber wood

Click here to try: Azzaro Wanted Eau De Toilette Spray, 3.4 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

Before getting into my own thoughts, let’s see what Azzaro has to say about Wanted: Lauding a new free and vibrant masculinity. A woody, fresh and spicy EDT with an addictive trail.

The opening of Wanted, provides a burst of the lemon note, which is actually quite pleasant and not too overwhelming. Almost immediately, one is struck by how it resembles Paco Rabanne’s, Invictus. 

It mimics that bubble gum sort of smell, that you get with Invictus. However, Wanted gives you some ginger, mint, and more woodiness. In some ways, it is very similar, and then I can completely detect differences.

It is fresh and the citrus note is kept in place, by the cooling spices, and smooth tonka bean. A few minutes in, I start to get a lot of cardamom. The warmth of that note is an interesting play, off of the rest of the aromatically fresh ingredients, in this cologne.

I mean, you have: mint, ginger, juniper, and vetiver (which does become more prominent). The further you get away from the opening, the less it smells like Invictus, and Wanted really becomes its own thing.

One thing that does sort of bother me with this scent, is how some notes smell particularly chemically synthetic, like in the way a candy flavoring doesn’t resemble the actual underlying scent that it is trying to replicate. It’s not bad or anything, just something I noticed.

My love of tonka bean, is satisfied more as the scent progresses, in it’s life cycle. It is joined by, a dash or apple and juniper berry, that gives Wanted a lovely and smooth fruitiness. It all strikes me as fresh and only slightly spicy, as the ginger note only complements and never takes center stage for itself.

While it does have the fruit notes as the main draw, Wanted remains completely masculine, and doesn’t stray into the unisex or women’s category. Sure, it has its sweetness, but nothing crazy. I think that it is bolstered by the woody and plant notes that play the background and keep the overall composition in check.

The last part of the wear, does get quite dry, and woodsy. Vetiver, amber wood, ginger, and mainly tonka bean; is what I get, when it’s on its last legs.

How Long Does it Last? What’s the Sillage Like?

Projection wise, I didn’t find Wanted to be all that loud or heavy. It’s towards the strong side of things, at the start. But, not much more than moderate, thereafter. People close by will be able to smell you but not across the room, unless you’re just pouring it on.

Wanted surprisingly has good to great longevity. For something that isn’t overpowering, it sticks around. Not to the upper echelon levels of 12+ hours but 7-9 hours seems to be within range. It’s been very consistently in this range, each time, that I wear it.

When Should it Be Worn

Wanted feels like a non-descript cologne, in that, I could see wearing it in almost any season (except maybe extreme heat) and it would still be appropriate for nearly any occasion. It’s quite fresh, clean, and attractive enough for a night out but not too crazy for the office.

It has a nice balance in terms of its use. It should be pretty popular and be an easy grab for guys.

Is it Good Overall?

Overall, do I like Wanted? I actually do, but only somewhat. It’s not my favorite thing ever, but I think that it does what it sets out to do well. It’s affordable, has a nice smell, and good performance.

It’s not earth shattering but it gets the job done. For me, I really have to be in the mood to wear something like this, and that mood doesn’t come around too often.

I’d say if you’ve tried Invictus and hated it, stay away from Wanted. On the flip side, if you’re an Invictus fan, you might actually like this one more. For many guys, this will be a very solid option, as a daily wear/nighttime cologne.

Update: Honestly, I now think that this is the weakest fragrance of the Wanted lineup. Wanted by Night surpassed this. Which was then in turn surpassed by The Most Wanted colognes. I would buy any of those before this original release.

None of those existed back when I originally wrote this review, so I felt that I should add this part as an addendum.

It’s kind of crazy how the flankers got better over time, from this original formula which was pretty much only decent. Wanted EDT has its strengths, but there are just better options, based on this concept.

Fan di Fendi Acqua Pour Homme by Fendi

by

The summer is quickly winding down. However, since I received a whole lot of new samples, some of these scents are going to be made for the warmer months of the year. One of these colognes is Fan di Fendi Acqua by Fendi. It is a fragrance that sets out to capture the spirit of the Mediterranean Sea, much like Acqua di Gio Profumo, while being quite different.

The Fendi scent is a different type of fragrance from that Armani entry, even if they share the citrus aroma provided by bergamot.  In this post, I want to give my impression on how this cologne smells, how it performs, when it should be worn, and whether or not it is worth a purchase.

What does Fan di Fendi Acqua Smell Like?

fan di fendi acqua homme

Notes include: bergamot, peppercorn, cedar, lavender, sea notes, pink pepper, musk, leather

Click here to try: FENDI Fan Di Fendi Acqua Eau de Toilette Spray, 3.4 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

Update: I originally wrote this review in 2016, after trying the sample. Later, I found a full bottle for around $20 and purchased it. I am updating this page, to reflect the fact that I have spent more time wearing it and have a deeper understanding of its performance, etc. 

The opening of Acqua is a blend of cedar and the marine notes that give the cologne its aquatic vibe. It’s a departure from other citrus laced colognes that open with an initial blast of lemon. While you can definitely smell that bergamot and Italian lemon here, they aren’t overwhelming.

The opening act gives me more of the bergamot than lemon, peppercorn, pink pepper, lavender, and the blend of marine notes. Up top, the spiciness is most prominent and really sets this one apart when compared to other aquatic colognes on the market.

I’d say that Fan di Fendi Acqua is very clean and fresh, especially once it settles in. There is a leather note that reminds me a lot of the one found in 1 Million. Now, they aren’t even remotely the same kind of scent but that smoothness is present.

There is also the faint spiciness  and warmth provided later on by the peppercorn, pink pepper, and musk notes. I think that this gives the scent a bit more depth and really anchors the cologne.

So, what you’re going to get with this fragrance is a very fresh, smooth, and warm woodsy/aquatic with supporting citrus notes.

Sillage, Longevity, and When to Wear

Projection wise, Fan di Fendi Acqua is moderate. It is a softer type of cologne that won’t choke you out or envelope the room, it’s quite a safe bet. Up front, that spice can be powerful and makes it seem like this scent is going to be loud. Once settled, it is typically moderate.

I do, however, get very good longevity out of this fragrance. A few sprays and it comes through for the rest of the day, this is one of the bigger selling points. I can get anywhere from 7 to 10 hours of wear with this scent, on my skin.

This is a fragrance built for warmer weather, so, spring and summertime. It is mostly for casual to semi-formal wear. More of an outdoorsy daytime scent, that can venture into the night. It’s clean enough, but not really a dressed up sort of cologne.

Overall Impressions of Fan di Fendi Acqua

Overall, is this a buy? Yes, if you get it at a good price. It isn’t an unbelievable scent by any means but it is a very good one that performs well. It at times smells familiar, but overall, I cannot think of another one that has this same sort of profile. It is a unique blend within this aquatic space…but doesn’t always feel like an aquatic.

The aquatic blend, that opening citrus, and the leather notes are some of the highlights. That aquatic and pink pepper aspect feels similar to Light Blue Living Stromboli, which came out around the same time as this Fendi.

The pink pepper is fine. Not usually my favorite spice note, but it works within the overall composition. Though, I’d consider it a less enjoyable feature of Acqua.

You get a very clean and good smelling fragrance that lasts for a long time and works in the heat. I like it a lot as a casual summer scent. Plus, the price can be great. If you’re not paying full retail, the Fan di Fendi lineup can be a steal.

Update: This has been discontinued for a long while now, as it came out back in 2013. I enjoyed my full bottle for a few summers, but no longer have Fan di Fend Acqua. You can still track down bottles, but it probably won’t be nearly as cheap as I got it for.

Polo Blue EDT by Ralph Lauren

by

I have sort of a soft spot for the line of Polo fragrances, Polo Sport was one of the first colognes that I tried when I was younger, and honestly still enjoy to this day. I also really enjoy the fashion line Ralph Lauren has created, as even if I don’t want to have my whole wardrobe look like the preppy or sailing type, I still like to mix and match some of the brand’s iconic menswear into my own personal style.

So, after trying a fragrance like Polo Red, I decided that I should try out Polo Blue as well and give my opinion on it. Also check out: The Top Fragrances by Polo Ralph Lauren

What does Polo Blue EDT Smell Like?

Notes include: amber, melon, patchouli, geranium, cucumber, tangerine, moss, musk

Click here to try: Polo Blue for Men By Ralph Lauren Eau-de-toilette Spray, 6.7-Ounce

My Full Review

My initial impression of this scent was immediately how fresh it was. I could really detect, the cool aquatic notes, and it did conjure up ideas of the color blue in my mind. It was really great to wear on a warm summer day.

However, I also think that it would work very well during the colder months because of the second wave of warm and slightly spicy notes.

Blue opens up with a cucumber, melon, and some tangerine/orange blend. It immediately strikes my nose, as being very similar to Eternity Aqua by Calvin Klein, which I have been wearing some as of late.

It is a water crisp aroma, with a bit of herbal basil in the background, adding some spice. At first, the cucumber is more dominant and later, the melon becomes more noticeable. Though, they can be difficult to distinguish between, in the same blend.

As it dries down some, the herbal quality sticks around, but there is an additional musk note which becomes more powerful. It never takes over the scent, but it is much more noticeable in the following hours. I like the dry down period, as you get a bit more character, in a fairly linear fragrance.

The notes do sort of transform from very clean and crisp into something that is warmer and more sensual. While it does have plenty of fruit notes, this never becomes anything girly, and I would say it’s wholly masculine. The woodsy notes anchor Polo Blue and don’t allow it to become a light and airy fragrance.

It is smoother and less spicy than Blue EDP or even some of the other options on the market, which have a close approximation to its aroma. It does indeed give you an uplifting freshness, that can be pleasing to wear.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

I would say that its projection is moderate. It’s not the type of cologne which will overwhelm with just a few sprays but it is by no means a weak one either.

Polo Blue EDT sticks around quite well for an eau de toilette and the sillage is noticeable for most of the wear. Towards the latter stages, it does become more of a skin scent.

It has good to very good longevity, as I get through an entire work day and can still detect it before I shower at night (unless I went to the gym beforehand).

That’s my experience with older bottles of Polo Blue, I’m not sure if the longevity has suffered from reformulations, but I always found it to last quite well.

Update: Coming back to Polo Blue, a few years after this initial review, I would put its longevity in the 6-9 hour range. Actually, much of the time it does last closer to the higher end of that range. It’s actually quite good, not elite, but you definitely get good value from this cologne.

Seasonally, its a spring/summer wear that can venture year round, as I said. It is a fresh and casual scent, that is inoffensive enough to venture into work. Is it sexy? Ehh, it’s attractive and pleasant. People appreciate it, but it’s never made women go crazy or anything like that.

This is a fragrance that you can technically wear almost anywhere. It’s not really a formal scent, but for many office type of environments, it would be perfectly fine.

I still would prefer to wear this on a summer’s day, while just going about my life, but it can serve as a the main cologne for someone.

Overall Impressions of Polo Blue

Overall, I do recommend Polo Blue. It’s by no means my favorite but I recognize that it is a really good daily wear choice for guys. It’s fresh, performs well, is versatile, and draws complements.

Is it some super amazing scent, that is completely unique and could become a signature wear?

Probably not, but it does what it does well, and I think that is more than enough for the general population of fragrance shoppers. I prefer Polo Blue EDP to this original release. Also, if you can find Eternity Aqua for cheaper, it’s a great alternative.

I like the top notes a lot, along with the overall aquatic aroma of the fragrance, without venturing into the oceanic zone.

Polo Blue does however, remain a very popular option. It’s really not difficult to understand why, as it does provide an attractive and versatile wear, that can be pulled off by anyone.

Gentleman Society by Givenchy

by

Gentleman Society is a new release from Givenchy for 2023. I wasn’t in too much of a rush to try yet another addition to the Gentleman line, since it can be pretty hit or miss for me. Anyway, I’ve been testing this one out for a full review on the site. How does Society smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

What does Gentleman Society Smell Like?

Notes include: sage, cardamom, daffodil, vetiver, sandalwood, cedar, vanilla

Click here to try: Gentleman Society

My Full Review

Here’s how Givenchy describes it: A scent as a signature. A wild narcissus flower enhanced by a deep woody accord.

The first time that I tried Gentleman Society was in the Miami airport while waiting for my flight. I don’t think I liked it at all and simply found it annoying. But, I chalk that up to being annoyed by a delayed flight and having to then sit on a plane.

So, I bought a full sample when I got back home, to really give it a fair chance.

On my skin, this one opens up with more of the sage being loud than the cardamom spice. Now, that’ll flip and more of the cardamom show up, but early on I get a bunch of sage.

Not that this is super spicy or anything, as Society is actually pretty sweet up top, kind of nutty. Even the cardamom here, feels more like the kind found in Azzaro Wanted. Sweeter, maybe with a lighter tinge of a lemon-like aroma.

The sage is paired with the emergent vanilla note, that’ll play more of a role. Also, the daffodil, which has been gaining more traction in men’s fragrance as of late. H24 also used a narcissus flower to great effect.

What’s interesting is that Hermes cologne, also has a lot of sage and woody notes in the base. Society is a lot like this scent, but with cardamom and vanilla piled on and without the metallic aroma.

Back to Society, the sage note will pretty much burn off in that first 15-30 minutes on my skin. The cardamom and narcissus will come to the forefront, with the floral note really developing and adding that yellow sort of musky finish to this scent.

The further along we get, the drier this one feels. Vetiver and palo santo wood aren’t massive influences in the mix, but towards then end this definitely has a more striking woodiness than the floral aspects of the early stages.

It’s an woody and earthy cologne at the end, with a big hit of vanilla still sitting on top. I don’t get anymore of the cardamom, narcissus, or sage at this point. Just woodsy notes and vanilla.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Society starts off with a pretty high level of ability to project off of the skin and leave a scent trail. I wouldn’t call it elite, but it is well above average throughout the wear.

Obviously, it is going to moderate as you move along in the wear, but I never felt like it was a weak cologne while having it on.

The longevity is also good. I’d say it’s in the 8.5-9 hour range, on my skin. With heavier spraying and a full bottle, I might be able to hit the double digit hour mark. Either way, I wasn’t disappointed in the performance and this Givenchy gives you good value.

Seasonally, it strikes me as one for the cooler to more moderate temperatures. Autumn through early spring, in most places. I wore it in the daytime once, here in late spring when it was really warm out, and Society wasn’t too good.

So, keep it indoors or only when the heat isn’t blasting you outside.

Society comes across as a fragrance better suited for men in their 20s. Not completely juvenile, but its sweetish aroma, might not be mature enough for some guys.

This one can go daytime or night. It’d work great as a nightlife sort of scent. It doesn’t scream for attention, but it has enough power and appeal to grab some. Seems like one that women will like to smell on a man.

Overall Impressions of Gentleman Society

Overall, do I like this fragrance? It’s fine. I do like it much more than I did when trying it in the airport. It has some familiarity with other colognes out there, but it does separate itself ultimately and do its own thing.

The opening 30-45 minutes is my favorite part of the wear. Narcissus, sage, the nuttiness, sweetness, and cardamom. It has depth and nuance that is at least interesting, while not being the most amazing cologne ever.

After that, I’m less enthusiastic about it. Kind of boring, can feel too sweet, and just not anything that I truly enjoy.

One advantage that Gentleman Society does have, is its performance. This projects very well and will provide a full workday’s worth of wear at least before quitting. Some guys might even get a longer amount of time with Society than I do.

I think that this is a mainstream fragrance that is worth a try, especially for younger guys. It’s one that is going to be popular and probably get you some complements. Easy to wear, more of a crowd pleaser, that does everything well enough.

To me, it’s nothing spectacular, just a fragrance that smells pretty good and can deliver in the performance department.