Paco Rabanne

Invictus Aqua EDT (2016) by Paco Rabanne

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Getting back into men’s fragrance reviews, today’s entry is one from popular designer, Paco Rabanne and is a flanker to the best selling Invictus: Invictus Aqua eau de toilette. Now, this flanker cologne was released in 2016, but is it actually any good? Update: There is another version of this, which came out in 2018. You’ll most likely find that around (if either) versus this one I’m reviewing here. In this review, I’ll cover what’s inside, how it smells, performs, and whether or not it’s even worth buying.

What does Invictus Aqua EDT Smell Like?

Notes include: yuzu, pink pepper, guaiac wood, marine notes, violet leaf, ambergris, grapefruit

Click here to try: Paco Rabanne Invictus Aqua Eau de Toilette Spray, 3.4 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

Before we get into my review, let’s see what Paco Rabanne has to say about Invictus Aqua: a luminous variation with a fresh woody signature: a refreshing marine top note mixed with sparkling yuzu accents. The sensual guaiac wood base note is reinforced by vibrant pink pepper.

The opening of Invictus Aqua is dominated by fresh yuzu and marine notes. The opening is actually my favorite part of this cologne and the citrus aroma is further enhanced by the inclusion of grapefruit.

Beyond that, the pink pepper note, really helps to set Aqua apart from the other offerings in the Invictus lineup. I’m a fan of pink pepper, as it’s such an underrated note, and has helped propel cheapies like Guess Seductive to its far and wide use.

Aqua is highly fresh, a sporty aquatic, with some slight soapy vibes to it. The marine notes add the aquatic element to this fragrance and they are further paired with ambergris for further saltiness.

However, Invictus Aqua never strikes me as being quite to the level of saltiness, in Bvlgari’s Aqva. It also seems a bit more mature than the original Invictus, while still retaining that similar DNA structure. Aqua isn’t nearly as sweet.

As it dries down, I get more violet leaf, less of the marine notes, and the intro of the guaiac wood. It definitely grows into a woodier fragrance, with a slight outdoorsy dirtiness to it. The oud isn’t super powerful, but you’ll notice it, when putting your nose close to the skin.

Toward the end, what I get is yuzu, guaiac wood, ambergris, violet leaf, and the aquatic notes slowly turning into quite an oceanic scent. It starts to just smell like sea water on my skin. That happens like at the very end of the day, though.

I’m not always a huge fan of aquatics, especially when it turns to pure sea water. Invictus Aqua is exactly that, deep into the wear. It’s really not my favorite part.

Sillage, How Long Does It Last, and Versatility

Projection wise, it’s not super heavy or anything. Being a spring/summer fragrance the sillage is going to be lighter, but I’d say it’s fairly strong for an aquatic. It won’t go unnoticed.

The performance from this one is actually pretty great. I can pull 8+ hours from it on my skin. Quite superb for a fragrance in this category. I’d say hours 6-8 really get oceanic, with the aroma. Before that, you’ll get more of the yuzu and violet leaf.

Seasonally, again, spring/summer. It is versatile within that time frame, however. Casual, work, and definitely one to be worn at parties or night clubs. I’d stick to the warmer months, as it just feels out of place and kind of too sharp, in the winter.

It’s attractive in its freshness, meaning, it should draw complements but I really wouldn’t say that it’s particularly sexy. For a guy in his 20s, this will be a solid go to in these scenarios.

Overall Impression of Invictus Aqua

Overall, do I like Invictus Aqua? I do. I think that it is a very good scent for what it is. I’m not looking to buy a bottle personally, since I’m not a huge fan of the Invictus line, but for those who are this is a worthy addition.

Other guys, who want a well performing and versatile warm weather cologne, Invictus Aqua is an option that should strongly be considered. The yuzu note is great, as is the pink pepper.

Not overall amazing, but a nice all around fragrance. I love the yuzu, the oud isn’t too bothersome, but the end is just to marine for my taste. When it is covered by other notes, it works better.

Update: Again, this 2016 version isn’t widely available it seems. Most of those bottle got bought up. Even the 2018 version is now scarce. Personally, I wouldn’t pay above original retail for either. So, unless you already absolutely love one or both, I wouldn’t bother tracking them down.

Black XS by Paco Rabanne

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I recently got another order of fragrances which included the very good, 212 VIP. Also in the box, was a bottle of Black XS by Paco Rabanne for men. I have already reviewed other scents by this brand, 1 Million and Invictus, and so I thought that it was time to tackle Black XS. In this post, I want to present my opinions on how it smells, performs, when it should be worn, and if it i worth a buy or not.

What Does Black XS Smell Like?

Notes include: Kalamanzi, Calabrese lemon, patchouli, praline, cinnamon, black amber

Click here to try: Black Xs By Paco Rabanne For Men, Eau De Toilette Spray, 3.4-Ounce Bottle

black xs paco rabanne review

My Full Review

The opening of Black XS is hardly reminiscent of anything ‘black’ or dark for that matter. I suppose it takes on the name because of the black amber note, which is strange, since it isn’t one of the main noticeable ingredients.

You initially get a pretty pungent blast of lemon. sweetness of praline, and a spicy/leathery sort of aroma from the cinnamon and patchouli.

The cinnamon note actually reminds me of 1 Million. Much like that other Paco Rabanne fragrance, Black XS’s notes take on a different kind of fruity smell than its ingredients would suggest.

In 1 Million, you get the sensation of warm, leathery grape bubblegum. While in Black XS, it smells a lot like a strawberry flavored candy of some sort blended with praline.

When I wore this cologne the other day, I really didn’t like the opening at all. It was too sweet and harsh for my tastes and I felt like I was getting a headache. However, I decided that I’d chalk that up to being really sleep deprived and not feeling good in general.

Today, I consider it to be much more pleasant, though it still doesn’t blow me away with how it starts. In fact, I can detect the separation of the notes much better, and it doesn’t smell like such an intense strawberried mess which bumps it up a few points in my mind.

As it wears on, Black XS does indeed get ‘darker’. It still isn’t a dark scent in my opinion but it definitely isn’t as bright as the opening. It does retain its sweetness and grows into something that is rather warm and more woodsy. I detect more of the cinnamon and patchouli during the dry down period of this fragrance.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, Black XS starts out pretty strong, but not nearly anything like 1 Million. It does lose some of its power as time wears on, so don’t expect a beast scent throughout.

That opening is pretty sharp and loud. So, because it stays at that level or a while, it drags up the overall average of Black XS’ sillage. Really, once it’s toned down this one is moderate.

Longevity is pretty good but again not spectacular. I’m getting 6 hours of solid use, so far, and maybe a little longer as a purely skin scent. Update: Yes, 6-7 hour seems to be the norm with this one. Which can be surprising when you’ve experienced that bold start.

Black XS is yet another cold weather scent. I think it could be alright in the spring but definitely not during the heat of summer. It is much more of a youthful type of fragrance, think, early 20s and below. It’s kind of playful and not stuffy and serious like some other scents.

It also strikes me more of a nightlife kind of cologne but it wouldn’t totally be out of place in a casual situation. For the close quarters of an office or something like that, it’s not the best option. It can be too sharp and cloying, which will bother other folks.

Overall Impression of Black XS

Overall, is Black XS worth a buy? Perhaps. This isn’t a fragrance for everyone and I don’t even know if it’ll be one for me (at least on a regular basis). I picked up a bottle on sale for $20, so, I’m not entirely disappointed with it.

It is definitely an interesting scent and is attractive in a lot of ways. You will have to enjoy sweet fragrances, obviously. Plus, lemon and patchouli are ingredients you’ll have to like, otherwise stay away.

Black XS is a very solid fragrance but not anything insanely impressive. It might find a home in your collection but I don’t think it’ll become a signature scent.

Update: I’ve had this cologne for a few years now and the bottle is still almost completely full. I just never could get into wearing it. The lemon, praline, and patchouli combination is just too much for my nose.

Sharp and sweet. I don’t hate it, but it’s not my style. I think Pure XS is a better option, but the performance on that one, isn’t great. The fragrance can be quite acidic to the nose and it’s pretty limited in when I ever wanted to wear it. There was always a better fragrance option.

Acqua Di Gio vs 1 Million Paco Rabanne Cologne Comparison

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For this edition of the head to head fragrance match ups, I want to do a comparison between two of the most popular men’s colognes, from the past few decades: Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani vs. 1 Million by Paco Rabanne. Which scent smells the best? Which has the better performance? Which is the better buy?

Tale of the Tape: AdG vs. 1 Million

Acqua di Gio

Notes include: bergamot, tangerine, neroli, jasmine, rosemary, patchouli, rock rose, hyacinth, persimmon, marine notes

Click here to try: Acqua Di Gio By Giorgio Armani For Men. Eau De Toilette Spray 3.4 Ounces

Read my review: Acqua di Gio 

1 Million

Notes include: Mint, Grapefruit, Rose, Patchouli, Amber, Cinnamon, White woods, Blond leather, Blood orange, Spice notes

Click here to try: Paco Rabanne 1 Million By Paco Rabanne For Men Edt Spray, 3.4 Ounce

Read my review: 1 Million

Opening

1 Million opens up with a blend of leather, rose, and citrus of blood orange and grapefruit. It’s quite sweet and bold, and creates a grape bubble gum like aroma from the jump.

Some folks aren’t too enthusiastic about the opening, but I like its charming beginning. This is all surrounded by a warm amber note. That amber warmth is enveloping and I really like the cooling sensation of the mint note that starts to peak through.

As it moves forward, it goes from sweet and cooler freshness to warmer spices, and a balanced period in between.

Acqua di Gio starts out with tangerine and bergamot citrus notes and a sea breeze note, which provides an upbeat and refreshing aquatic scent. There is also a floral aroma, provided by the jasmine. Some neroli and hyacinth, as well.

The citrus really comes across as a lemon and lime-led aroma. The newer bottles really have a nice amount of jasmine, when I wear it. Very nice.

Which is better? I really do enjoy both of these colognes and how each starts. Acqua di Gio has plenty of nice qualities, but I think I prefer the bold start of 1 Million. It is somewhat more interesting and has greater depth.

Though, coming back to both here recently, I have a great appreciation for wearing Acqua.

Edge: 1 Million

Projection

Acqua di Gio isn’t a powerhouse fragrance. It is solid but moderate throughout the wear. 1 Million is pretty legendary, at this point, with its sillage and how it performs. 1 Million can fill a room, with not too many sprays, it’s a beast. This category isn’t close.

Update: 1 Million doesn’t have that same level of pop anymore, but it still does extremely well in comparison, and didn’t lose too much of a step. AdG is still about the same, but it gets lighter quicker.

Edge: 1 Million

Longevity

Acqua di Gio gets me a consistent 6-7 hours of wear, each time I use it. Again, that’s a very respectable number, and good enough for most purposes.

Update: Newer batches that I’ve tried, are much more in the six hour range, maybe 5.5 hours much of the time. I can still get 7 occasionally.

1 Million, has always been 10+ hours, on my skin. Like, 13-15 hours into a wear, has not been uncommon. I haven’t tried newer bottles, so, I’m unaware of any reformulation. However, it’s always been top tier for me.

Update: Newer bottles only hit around 8, on my skin. Still, better than the current AdG offering.

Edge: 1 Million

Versatility

This is where AdG has an advantage. This stuff can be worn in a wide variety of situations and climates and still work. It is a great starter cologne, daily wear, and is still versatile enough for dates.

It skews towards younger guys, but so does 1 Million. 1 Million is a colder weather scent with serious nightlife vibes. In fact, it’s a club staple, and has been since its release. It can be worn elsewhere, just have to go easy with it.

Edge: Acqua di Gio

Overall Scent

Acqua di Gio is a really great scent and has been for a long time now. It’s just one of those colognes that you can throw on without thinking about it and feel comfortable that it won’t let you down.

It is a classic aquatic and will undoubtedly be a best-seller for a long time to come. If you’re in the market for an everyday wear, this will probably be a better option.

However, which is a better fragrance overall? I think 1 Million is superior and I prefer wearing it to the Armani cologne. It has a playful demeanor and women seem to really react positively to it, especially younger ladies.

I love the mint, leather, rose, citrus, and amber warmth. It’s so sweet and still smells really good to this day. Yes, it has more of a limited versatility than does AdG, but it makes up for it with the aroma and superior performance.

But again, if you want a greater use case all around, go with Acqua di Gio. The citrus, wood, and marine aquatic breeze is still amazing to come across after all of these years.

Winner: 1 Million

Phantom vs. 1 Million Comparison

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1 Million is a fragrance which has been a best seller for a long time for Paco Rabanne. One of the brand’s latest releases, has also become very popular, it’s called Phantom. 1 Million is a scent that I’ve very familiar with and I’ve tested out and reviewed Phantom, too. Which cologne is better? Lasts longer? Is the one to buy?

Tale of the Tape: Phantom vs. 1 Million

1 Million

Notes include: grapefruit, blood orange, rose, mint, cinnamon, amber, leather, patchouli, and more

Click here to try: Paco Rabanne 1 Million Eau de Toilette Spray for Men, 3.4 Fluid Ounce

Read my original review: 1 Million Cologne Review

Phantom

Notes include: lemon, lemon zest, lavender, patchouli, vetiver, apple, smoke, and more

Click here to try: Phantom by Paco Rabanne

phantom cologne review

Opening

Phantom kicks things off with apple and lemon notes, creating a juiciness that is quite nice. The aroma is semi-tropical and sweet, with the way it ties together. Under that, is lavender and vanilla, further pushing the aromatic creaminess.

That juicy citrus fruit opening will be pushed out by a drier and earthy aroma. The juiciness fades, and patchouli will have its time to shine, with an herbal sort of spice coming together. It dirties it up, and yes, there is a touch of smoke.

The original 1 Million has this grape bubblegum-like opening that has become pretty infamous. This candy scented start is one reason I think this fragrance has pushed some people away from wearing it. Personally, I think that it works just fine and actually enjoy it.

1 Million opens up with leather, citrus, and rose. Together, they create that bubblegum sort of smell. It’s actually a really smooth leather, juicy orange and grapefruit. This is surrounded by a warm and bold amber, with hints of cooling mint.

Overall, which is better? The initial somewhat tropical and juicy aroma of Phantom is enjoyable enough, but after that I’m not too into the earthy lavender scent.

I prefer 1 Million,  it’s still bold and has more depth and a better overall scent, here at the start.

Edge: 1 Million

Projection

Phantom kind of stays true to its name, in terms of how it projects early on. It initially seems like it’s going to be fairly massive, but then will moderate quite a bit in quick succession.

It will then, stick closer to the skin, to create a nice scent bubble.

1 Million is a fragrance which was always massive. But, the last batch I had from 2020, seems to have lost some of that power. It was still around 85% of what it once was, just not nearly the same extent.

However, it still outdoes anything that Phantom can conjure up.

Edge:1 Million

Longevity

With Phantom, I was really only able to get 6 or 7 hours of wear out of it on skin. That’s not bad, maybe a tad above average. It’d be useful for most purposes.

1 Million nowadays, reaches around 8. Sometimes, it might be 7, but my last batch was getting to 8 pretty consistently.

The older batches would hit double digits for me, easily. Those days are gone, but it is still a bit better than Phantom.

Edge: 1 Million

Versatility

Phantom works at its best in the chilly weather of autumn and winter. But, it does have the ability to go deeper into the springtime than does 1 Million.

1 Million is pretty limited to colder or moderate temperatures, more casual situations, and a younger audience in general.

I think Phantom has a bit of an edge here. It is better in the warmer climate and as a daily wear too. Both are for younger guys, but Phantom has a tad better use case overall.

Edge: Phantom

Overall Scent

Overall, which one of these do I prefer?

Phantom is kind of a weird cologne. It’s got so much that is recognizable, but it doesn’t smell exactly like any scent in particular. The opening that is citrusy and apple is decent. I like the semi-tropical aroma that it puts out, when combining with the vanilla and lavender note.

After that, it’s not nearly as enjoyable. It becomes earthier with the lavender and a faint smokiness. But, it will shift to being lavender and vanilla dominate with a dry/grassy vetiver and the fruit notes kind of stage a comeback. Just, at a not to the same strength.

1 Million just smells better to me. Also, performs better. It’s sweet, spicy, warm, and still has a boldness to it, even if it has lost a step over time.

1 Million is a more pleasant experience and gives me higher highs and more consistency. I’m picking it over Phantom every time.

Winner: 1 Million

1 Million vs 1 Million Prive Cologne Comparison

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Paco Rabanne’s 1 Million has been a hyper-popular cologne ever since its release however many years ago. It is known as a bold and absolute monster performer, which has been a go to for younger men, at bars and night clubs across the globe. With the release of 2016’s flanker scent, 1 Million Prive, the fragrance may have some competition from one which was birthed from it’s own success.

In this post, I am going to give my thoughts and performance review, in order to create a comparison between 1 Million vs 1 Million Prive by Paco Rabanne for men.

 

Tale of the Tape: Prive vs. 1 Million

 

1 Million

Notes include: grapefruit, blood orange, rose, mint, cinnamon, amber, leather, patchouli, and more

Click here to try: Paco Rabanne 1 Million Eau de Toilette Spray for Men, 3.4 Fluid Ounce

Read my original review: 1 Million Cologne Review

1 Million Prive

Notes include: tonka bean, apple, cinnamon, myrrh, mandarin orange, tobacco

Click here to try: Paco Rabanne 1 Million Prive Eau de Parfum Spray for Men, 3.4 Ounce

Read my original review: 1 Million Prive Cologne Review

Opening

The original 1 Million has this grape bubblegum-like opening that has become pretty infamous. This candy scented start is one reason I think this fragrance has pushed some people away from wearing it. Personally, I think that it works just fine and actually enjoy it.

1 Million opens up with leather, citrus, and rose. Together, they create that bubblegum sort of smell. It’s actually a really smooth leather, juicy orange and grapefruit. This is surrounded by a warm and bold amber, with hints of cooling mint. 

All in all, it’s a nice and powerful start, to this now classic best-seller.

Prive, on the other hand, takes on something a bit darker and less sweet. It still retains the cinnamon note of the original but adds a scent of apple (though, it’s not an actual ingredient, it’s just the effect that the blend gives off), which reminds me of cinnamon applesauce but not as sweet.

There is a light citrus note, provided by the same mandarin orange, as the original.  Tonka bean, myrrh, and tobacco come in later, to give it a rich and thick aroma. 

Honestly, I think I was digging the opening of Prive while wearing it the other day, more so than when I wear the original. The more time that I’ve spent with both, the more that I prefer Prive as a flanker cologne.

Edge: Prive

Projection

Update: The latest batch of 1 Million that I tried, isn’t nearly as strong as it used to be. As such, I’m downgrading it, and calling this category a tie. Below is my original take.

1 Million is a straight beast in terms of performance and in order to take this category, Prive would have had to match or somehow even exceed the bar that was set. It doesn’t.

Prive actually has really good projection and is by no means weak, but, 1 Million is legendary in this regard. Maybe newer formulations of 1 Million are toned down, somewhat, but I haven’t experienced that myself.

Prive is a very strong fragrance, so, you won’t actually be disappointed by the performance, it just doesn’t hold a candle to the original. 

Edge: Push

 

Longevity

Update: The newer batches of 1 Million don’t go as long. Usually, it still hits 8-9 hours, but now Prive has the upper hand.

Again, performance wise, 1 Million takes the cake. It goes on forever seemingly. Prive is no joke and will last 9-10 hours after spraying.

1 Million, always seemed to go for 12 hours, on my skin. Then, I’d lose track of it. I mean, you have to go to sleep at some point. Nonetheless, Prive is again, a great performer too. 

Edge: Prive

Versatility

Both of these colognes are useful for casual to romantic wear. Though, go lightly when wearing to work or school. Both are well suited to the colder weather. I would say, that Prive, is better suited for more formal events. Even though, it’s not really a formal scent, by any means. 

However, 1 Million can probably hold up better during warmer whether than can Prive, which gives it the edge here. For me, these both were always colder weather, nightlife wears. 

Edge: 1 Million

Overall Scent

Right now, I am enjoying Prive more than I do 1 Million. The original is a better performer but Prive is also great in that manner. Prive is smooth, warm, and I really like the cinnamon/tobacco note dry down period.

Update: After a few years of having tried Prive, after its release, I can say it is my favorite 1 Million fragrance. Better than the original and 1 Million Lucky.  Plus, it now has a better performance than the original, also.

Update 2: Prive has been discontinued, as of now. I tried to find a bottle a few months back and it wasn’t possible at a reasonable price. So, the original 1 Million EDT is the one I’d go with out of the series, if I couldn’t get my hands on a bottle of Prive…which looks like is going to be the case moving forward.

It’s just the most well rounded fragrance of them all. It has enough elements of the original to be familiar, then, adds to that foundation with something uniquely its own. 

Prive seems darker and a bit more mature than the original and I love the tonka bean note. That’s not to say that the orginal 1 Million is bad. It isn’t and I still like to wear it but as of writing I’m more into Prive. Maybe, it is recency bias but I’m going with the new flanker as the winner.

Winner: Prive