Artisan by John Varvatos

There are many scents out there that can be overbearing and heavy, however, us guys (and our girls) would prefer something a bit lighter and more inviting. Artisan by John Varvatos is just such a fragrance. It was introduced in 2009 and has a unique vibe to it, that I feel is almost perfect for the summer months.

On the other hand, I am not completely sold on this fragrance and its use within my rotation of scents because it does have some issues with its performance. Read on, as I break down what makes this scent one of interest.


What does Varvatos Artisan Smell Like?

artisan

Notes include: Tangelo, Marjoram, Thyme, Murraya, Lavandin, Kephalis, Ginger Absolute, Serenolide, Belambre, Orange Blossom, Clementine, Purple Ginger, Ginger root, Mandarin Orange, Georgywood

Click here to try: John Varvatos Artisan Eau De Toilette Gift Set, 4.2 Oz.


My Full Wear Review

The first thing that I note about this cologne is how light and airy of a fragrance it is. It is warm and inviting and definitely one that has a bit of sexiness to it. This is the type of fragrance that will have women wanting to draw closer to get a whiff.

It’s pleasant citrus notes highlight a layer of complexity to the scent and give it a very fresh opening.

The citrus notes here, are tangelo and mandarin orange, much like in Artisan Acqua. However, this one is much more of a citrus fragrance than a citrus aquatic. These top notes are joined by herbal ingredients and floral notes.

I get orange blossom, neroli, and ginger, mostly. The initial citrus blast is gradually taken down a notch by the underlying floral notes, and the light spiciness.

I want to write more about the dry down and the other notes that came out of the fragrance as it wore on but I honestly didn’t get the chance. After an hour or two, it’s pretty much an orange and neroli blend, which I have to press my nose against the skin to really pick up on.

While this scent smells great, it has two distinct problems. First, while it is light and airy, it’s also pretty weak and people have to be pretty close to you in order to detect it (or you have to spray a ton of it).

Secondly, it loses whatever strength it may have had really quickly. This cologne doesn’t last long at all…which is insanely disappointing because I like it.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage at the start, is light to moderate, but at least you know it’s there. A short time later and the ability to project is non-existent. Then, it’s essentially gone from the skin. What a bummer, because I like the aroma.

Maybe 2 hours of wear on my skin. Terrible

Why is this such a common theme with Varvatos fragrances, that I’ve tried? My skin is pretty good at keeping fragrances on it, for a max time, but this brand’s colognes just evaporate it seems.

This scent has so much potential, if it only lasted longer and could project better, I would probably wear it quite often. Much like, The One by Dolce & Gabbana, it’s beauty is tarnished by performance issues.


Overall Impressions of Artisan

I want to be able to wear and recommend it, but I just simply can’t. Maybe if you can find a really cheap bottle, you might have better luck with the performance, but paying full price here? Nah.

The aroma itself is really great. I love the citrus notes and summertime vibe. Super fresh with a great ginger touch. It just falls apart completely.

Apparently, other people have had a bit more success with how long it lasts for them. For me, this one has just always completely disappeared in short order. Artisan is a cologne that smells really good, that just doesn’t save it in the end, though.

Bapteme Du Feu by Serge Lutens

I ordered a bunch of Serge Lutens fragrances, almost two years ago, and thought that I had done write ups for all of them. Apparently, I missed posting about two of them, and need to rectify that oversight. One, is the subject of today’s entry, Bapteme du Feu. What does this one smell like? How does it perform? Is it worth a try?


What does Bapteme du Feu Smell Like (Review)?

Notes include: tangerine, wood, gingerbread, cinnamon, clove

Click here to try: Bapteme Du Feu by Serge Lutens Eau De Parfum 50 ml Spray 


My Full Wear Review

Before we get into my review, let’s see how Serge Lutens describes this fragrance: Imagine a village fair where the smell of gunfire from the shooting range mingles with the sweeter aroma of gingerbread, cinnamon, clove, and candied orange and you have Bapteme du Feu!

Right from the start, you know this is going to be an odd fragrance. I mean, just read the description. Once, you spray it on, its uniqueness doesn’t suddenly disappear.

Bapteme du feu opens up with a juicy and quite sugary blast of orange or tangerine. Yes, it really does have a candied aroma, and smells quite intense. Not too out of the ordinary, as many scents have a strong citrus.

However, then the gunpowder note comes in. It’s a warm spent cartridge smell. A bit smoky, somewhat powdery from mixing with the other ingredients, and hangs in the air with a metallic smell.

At first, this note gets mixed with some spiciness. Cinnamon and gingerbread, come through more, later in the wear. Near the start though, I get a lot of clove. It’s super sweet orange, clove, and gunpowder. Man, I really don’t care for these smells combined together.

Does Bapteme du Feu get better, as it moves along? Yes, once the clove dies down, I can stand it more. It continues into being more gingerbread dominant, with orange highlights, and a general hazy smoke aroma. That’s essentially what it is for the rest of its cycle.

So, expect a warm, sweet, baked goods, spicy, gunpowder smell.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

On my skin, this projects very well, but isn’t suffocating. The sillage is as strong as it needs to be and shouldn’t be an issue, unless you over spray, and have it become an annoyance.

The longevity is actually quite good. It hung around for about 9 hours or so, for me. Not a complete powerhouse, throughout, but did a fine job at not dying out early.

Is this a versatile scent? Not really, at all. It’s a cold weather wear, that’s for sure. It’s so odd, that I don’t know when you’d be able to wear it. It’s not really formal, professional, or sexy. I guess you could throw on Bapteme du Feu, as a casual wear, simply for yourself.


Overall Impression of Bapteme du Feu

Do I like this Serge Lutens perfume? Personally, no. I’ll give it points for being unique, but I really don’t like the smell.

At times, it’s like being surrounded by orange candy. Then, it reminds me of being in an arts and crafts store as a kid. There was always one aisle with candles and various other products, filled with spices like clove, and woods. I hated that smell.

Then, there is the gun smoke. I actually don’t mind that smell, in real life, but in a fragrance? Why? It has no appeal.

This is a definite niche perfume. I imagine some folks will love Bapteme du Feu, I’m not one of them. But hey, if it sounds like something for you, the performance is a strength at least.

Ispazon by Parfums De Marly

I found a box of samples, in my closet, from which I had yet to review a dozen or more fragrances. To my surprise, I had left a couple of Parfums de Marly scents in there, and never gave a full review on either. One of these colognes is, Ispazon. How does this one smell? What’s in it? How does it perform? Please continue below for my full take.


What does Ispazon Smell Like?

Notes include: lime, amber, vanilla, cedar, lily of the valley, bay leaf, orange, lemon


My Full Review

Before I get into my personal review of Ispazon, let’s see what Parfums de Marly has to say about it: “A woody-oriental scent named after the native breed from the Netherlands renowned for its grace and beauty, opens with the freshness of lime and laurel notes to settle into an oriental base of amber and vanilla.

When I initially received a bunch of Parfums de Marly samples and read the descriptions of each, I immediately thought that Ispazon would have been my favorite. Lime, amber, and vanilla? Sounds like something that I would enjoy.

However, after testing it out for the first time, over a year ago. I detested the scent and wanted nothing more to do with it. Obviously, I’ve circled back to retry Ispazon, and see if it would be better with more distance from my first reaction.

I think that my main issue, was with how it starts. I was expecting something smoother, creamier, and with a great citrus highlight. What I’m met with is a spicy citrus, which utilizes bay leaf and thyme. It’s sharp and herbal. Ispazon feels intense and sort of bothersome up top.

It’s less annoying than I remember, at the start, but still not something that I particularly like. After a few minutes, though, it starts to feel much more like a green scent and I get floral undertones. The citrus sharpness fades somewhat and what emerges is better.

The scent begins to turn to becoming a woodsy masculine scent. It has a fairly big dose of cedar, which gives this PdM scent, a super dry freshness. At this stage, you get mostly everything that Ispazon has to offer. A big bay leaf note, with cedar riding shotgun, thyme, with some remaining citrus, and lily of the valley.

What of the vanilla and amber? Truthfully, they aren’t very noticeable, until late into the game. Even then, there is a slight warmth and familiar sweetness. Does it change the smell of Ispazon? Yes, somewhat. It’s not a massive difference, however.


Sillage, Longevity, Versatility

The sillage on this one isn’t super strong, but it is quite good. It’ll project itself, in a decent radius around you, for a few hours before dialing it back in.

The longevity is also good, but not elite. I seem to hit that 7-9 hour range, on my skin. Not much more than that and perfectly satisfactory, for most everyone’s purposes. Ispazon does have very good performance overall.

Seasonally, you do get to enjoy plenty of time with this fragrance. It’s not a heavy winter scent, nor is it an aquatic summertime wear. It just really never feels out of place, maybe excluding, the absolute hottest days with high humidity. Outside of that? It’ll be good.

Ispazon has a masculine and mature vibe. Not old mannish, but not really something most younger guys would want to wear either. This scent could be worn casually, to an office, or out for an evening. It doesn’t strike me as one to have limited possibilities.


Overall Impression of Ispazon

Do I like Ispazon? More than I did, but it’s still not my style. I do have a much better appreciation for this fragrance. It’s definitely not a ‘bad’ scent, by any means.

You’re going to have to like the smell of bay leaf. That, cedar, and thyme are major players in this cologne. So, expect a herbal green, woody, fresh, and spicy scent. If that doesn’t sound appealing, move on to something else.

I’m not sure that PdM even makes this anymore. I couldn’t find a bottle on their website or on Amazon, for that matter. Perhaps, look to the discount retailers, if you’re interested.

Update: Yeah, looks like it’s discontinued.

It’s unique, versatile, and performs well. Whether or not, you personally take to its structure, will determine its worth.

Mont Blanc Legend Spirit vs. Legend Night

For this edition in the head to head men’s fragrance match ups, I want to do another comparison between, two Mont Blanc fragrances: Legend Night vs. Legend Spirit. Which of these descendants from the original popular cologne, smells better? Which has a better performance? Which is overall the better buy?

I have worn, tested, and reviewed each of these scents. Now, I will break them down by category, before ultimately declaring a winner.


Tale of the Tape: Spirit vs Night

Legend Spirit

Notes include: grapefruit, pink pepper, bergamot, musk, aquatic accord, lavender, cardamom, oak moss, wood

Click here to try: MONTBLANC Legend Spirit Eau de Toilette, 3.3 Fl Oz

Read my review: Legend Spirit


Legend Night

Notes include: candied apple, cedar, vanilla, cardamom, vetiver, sage, mint, bergamot, fir, lavender, violet, patchouli, and musk

Click here to try: MONTBLANC Legend Night Eau De Parfum, 1 fl. oz.

Read my review: Legend Night


Opening

Legend Spirit opens up with a citrus and aquatic blend of notes. Beyond that, is a warm and slightly spicy blend of cardamom and pink pepper. It is a nice scent, clean, and that cardamom note really helps to prevent it from settling into a standard issue aquatic.

Legend Night starts off with bergamot and candied apple. The citrus is the same as Spirit, but Night goes in an entirely, different direction. The second layer is of vanilla, sage, cardamom, and cool mint.

You get plenty of creamy vanilla and apple mix, with the warm spicy undertones.

Which is better? To me, Legend Night, has the better start. The initial juiciness of the fruits, the cool and warm contrast in spice, and then the vanilla note. It’s great.

Edge: Night


Projection

So, Spirit is a moderate with its sillage, but on the lighter end of that spectrum. Legend Night is also moderate overall, but has a strong start, and can be quite noticeable for a while, at a distance.

It’s also just a heavier fragrance versus Spirit, which can be used into the spring and summertime, whereas Night isn’t a hot weather wear.

Edge: Night


Longevity

Legend Spirit gives me 5-6 hours of wear and that’s about it. Pretty consistent with that range. Legend Night will get me 7 hours, but when I double spray each side of my neck, it goes for 9 hours.

Spirit doesn’t get any more time, with double sprays. I don’t think either of these are amazing with their longevity. Pretty standard for most Montblanc colognes. Night, has just worked better for me, over many times testing them.

Edge: Night


Versatility

Legend Spirit gets the edge in versatility. It is a warm weather fragrance but can do well year-round. It can go casual to work to a date with ease. Legend Night, is great in cold weather, and fine in the moderate temperatures.

It is also more geared toward casual and nightlife, as the name suggests. So, probably not the best business fragrance, but neither really is.

Edge: Spirit


Overall Scent

There is a lot to like about Legend Spirit. It’s got a clean and aquatic citrus aroma, with nice touches of spice. It’s pretty average in its longevity and sillage, but I do really enjoy the cardamom note in this one. Nice overall cologne.

Legend Night is better and it’s one that I wear on a pretty regular basis. It too has the cardamom, but an overall, warm and enveloping scent. It’s sweet, fruity, spicy, and has sex appeal.

I’ve gotten complements with Legend Night from ride share drivers to women to random folks at the bar. I really dig this type of scent and when it’s in the right environment, it can be amazing.

To me, it’s a fairly easy win.

Winner: Legend Night 

Polo Red EDT vs. EDP

Polo Red has been used for many releases by Ralph Lauren since the EDT was initially brought to market last decade. Now, they have come out with an Eau de Parfum version after cycling through Intense, Rush, Extreme, etc. The EDP does raise the question, which is better? EDT or the newer bottle? Which lasts longer? Which should you buy?


Tale of the Tape: Polo Red EDP vs Red EDT

Polo Red

Notes include: grapefruit, italian lemon, cranberry, saffron, sage, coffee beans, and amber

Click here to try: POLO RED by Ralph Lauren, 4.2 Fl Oz

Read my full review: Polo Red


Polo Red Eau de Parfum

Notes include: red grapefruit, ginger, cranberry, lavender, sage, cedar, benzoin, oud, resin, musk

Read my full review: Polo Red EDP


Opening

The original Polo Red starts off with a sharp, sweet, and tart blend of notes: lemon, cranberry, and grapefruit. While the cranberry is the strongest note, the lemon is also quite prevalent and there is a growing amber coming from the base.

Meanwhile, Red EDP starts off with the same cranberry and grapefruit sans lemon. Instead, you get ginger and later the sage note begins to take shape.

Between the two, EDP feels more tolerable and not as in your face as the original. The cranberry note is given more space to shine and I always love a good ginger.

I do also like the EDT, it’s just that, the lemon and amber can be a bit much and overly tart and sweet when it’s all blended.

Edge: EDP


Sillage

Both EDT and EDP start off projecting themselves well and as fairly strong overall. Then, each settles into more of a moderate scent. While EDP has the greater concentration of fragrance, it’s actually only slightly better in this regard, when compared with EDT.

Edge: EDP


Longevity

Red EDT lasts 4-6 hours on my skin. If I double up, I can get a few more out of the wear. EDP is better, but is by no means elite. 6-7.5 hours is what I’ve been getting out of it. Still, it takes this round.

Edge: EDP

 

 


Versatility

Red EDP is good fragrance in any season other than the summer. Meanwhile, the EDT is good in spring and can hold up better in summer.

Eau de Parfum feels more grown up, however. Neither is a formal fragrance, but EDP would fit in better in an office environment than EDT. Both have their strengths, but I don’t think either really has an edge.

Edge: Push


Overall Scent

Polo Red was a really nice release, when it came out years ago. I enjoyed wearing it around and thought that the cranberry note, was an interesting ingredient to use. It has that really tart lemon aroma that gets tempered by amber, as it moves along.

I always wished that the performance was better. It also can become kind of too sweet for its own good, also.

The EDP corrects this. The lemon is gone. You get ginger, sage, and a blend of lavender and benzoin in the base. It feels much smoother and more appealing than the EDT version.

I don’t think it’s a great release, but it does have the edge in this matchup. It’s a nice wear and has enough of the DNA of the original to be enjoyed by fans of EDT. The performance is slightly better, but not elite. Still, all things considered, I’d rather wear EDP.

Winner: Polo Red EDP