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Kouros Fraicheur by YSL

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After receiving my bottle of YSL Haute Concentration, I decided to buy another vintage Saint Laurent fragrance. This time I grabbed a bottle of 1993’s Kouros Fraicheur, a flanker to the original released in 1981. I was intrigued to get the original Kouros experience, blended into a lighter and more wearable version. Is it actually any good, though?

What does Kouros Fraicheur Smell Like?

Notes include: clove, pineapple, bergamot, ginger, orange blossom, patchouli, vetiver, amber, honey, oakmoss, incense, coriander, vanilla, tonka bean

My Full Review

The opening is full of that familiar spiciness and animalic quality found in the classic Kouros. Civet is toned down, but it is definitely there, adding an intense musk to the top of this scent.

Yet, I think they used aldehydes to a greater extent here, like I get with the last batch of Kouros I reviewed. A warm spice blended with that cold fresh airy blast.

But, the main difference with Fraicheur is the inclusion of lighter notes up top like pineapple and bergamot. This brightens up the composition with less of a massive pungent heaviness, that the 80s bottles of Kouros had.

When compared to the modern Kouros, I think this one is actually the more potent of the two, even though this was the ‘lighter’ version of the original 30 years ago.

Like Kouros, I get a good deal of coriander in the spice profile. Maybe some ginger. Most of it is going to be a mix of those spices, musk, patchouli, and what smells like neroli (not just the orange blossom alone).

Once we’re past that initial heavy mix of many different notes, things start to shift to an earthier blend. Some smokiness from incense, lots of vetiver, patchouli, and a bit of amber. This earthy smokiness is pretty well-blended with the floral notes (perhaps honey, too?) and the remaining pineapple/citrus.

I think this phase of the wear is great. The civet/aldehydes have take a back seat to these earthier notes and you start to get an unobstructed smell of the floral notes, also. It’s a mix of the cleaner and dirtier notes, but gradually becoming calmer.

At times, I really pick up on a powdery or creamier scent in this. It’s not distinct enough to be just one note, but the way everything starts combining.

While Kouros ends as a musky/floral/herbal fragrance, Fraicheur dries down woody/floral/sweet. There are hints of vanilla coming through and enough of the top pineapple influence to be noticeable if you press your nose.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this one will leave a trail and fill a room, especially in that first hour of wear. It reaches much further than the Kouros sample I reviewed a few months ago. Fraicheur doesn’t require a ton of sprays to be effective.

That being said, past the first hour, and this cologne calms down a lot. Still very noticeable, but it doesn’t radiate quite like it does when it’s in full civet, aldehydes, pineapple, and spices mode.

The longevity is also great. It seems to stick around for about 9 hours on my skin. Remember, this is a ‘freshie’ EDT, and it’s putting out this kind of power. Most vintage colognes were just built different.

Seasonally, this is actually really nice in (near) springtime and could work in summer too. Fraicheur wouldn’t feel too out of place anytime of year. But, I think it’s best in mild temperatures and above.

Fraicheur still comes across as a vintage scent. Very different from just about anything that’s come out in the past decade-plus. It will probably appeal much more to older guys or those who appreciate the classic stuff.

I think that this is an approachable way to wear the vintage Kouros. It’s not overwhelming and the animalic facets aren’t the main event here. Still, it’s a classic chypre style, that you may have to grow to love.

Overall Impressions of Kouros Fraicheur

Overall, do I like Fraicheur? Yes, I actually prefer it to Kouros itself, especially in its modern incarnation. This 1993 version has a better strength and heavier reach than the newer bottles of Kouros, while having a lighter and more appealing scent.

You can absolutely still tell that this is very much a Kouros derivative. As such, if you don’t like Kouros, I doubt that you’ll enjoy Fraicheur. I like it somewhat more, but it’s still never going to rate as a personal favorite.

That initial spray is jam packed with things going on. I think it’s nice enough at that stage. I like the pineapple and citrus editions, but I think that Kouros Fraicheur really comes into its own once you get to the earthier and floral parts of the cologne.

All in all, I think this is a great release by Yves Saint Laurent. Obviously, it’s discontinued nowadays, and can be pricey to track down. I paid about $95 for a 1.11 ounce (30 mL) bottle, which isn’t too bad. But, this is mostly going to appeal to collectors.

YSL Pour Homme Haute Concentration

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YSL Pour Homme was the famed 1971 release from the French designer. 1981 saw the introduction of Kouros, followed in 1983 by the subject of today’s review, Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme Haute Concentration. This higher concentration version of the original, is an under the radar 80s powerhouse. But, how does it smell? Is it still worth tracking down a bottle of nowadays?

What does YSL Pour Homme Haute Concentration Smell Like?

Notes include: Amalfi lemon, carnation, oakmoss, nutmeg, rosemary, petitgrain, wood, tonka bean, patchouli

My Full Review

I’ve been thinking about this one for a while, after purchasing another bottle of Opium Pour Homme and considering getting Kouros Body, for some further nostalgia. I’d never tried it, barely remember what the original YSL Pour Homme smelled like, and bottles of Haute Concentration were pretty insane on eBay (and unknown quality).

As fate would have it, I was scrolling through Jomashop’s website, and a tester bottle of Haute Concentration was for sale. $120. Very quickly purchased it, as even the limited batches YSL had been doing during the past decade are now discontinued.

But, that ordered got cancelled, since they didn’t actually have it in stock. Went back to eBay and found a old gift set (with soap) of the original Haute Concentration in the black bottle for $100. Quality be damned this time, I wanted it.

Now, I have no idea how old this particular bottle is. I do know that it’s in the original black bottle, which became clear glass later. This was also, I believe, re-released as a part of a special collection, featured in yet another bottle.

Update: I looked up the batch code, it’s a bottle from 1986 apparently. 

Anyway, this opens up with the Amalfi lemon note being very prominent. With my bottle, it feels sort of sour for a minute (may just be due to age), but that quickly fades and becomes a dusty lemon surrounded by plenty of old school oakmoss, rosemary, and petitgrain.

I actually think that this might be true oakmoss, pre-regulations, it smells great in comparison to many of the newer synthetic varieties.

The real stand out with the lemon early on though, is the rosemary note. The start of this scent reminds me of D&G Pour Homme, not exactly (and better), with the use of the lemon and herbal notes.

It’s dry, a bit green in the early stages, with some spicy hints from that carnation ,nutmeg, and rosemary note. The carnation and nutmeg come in more to my nose, once that initial lemon and rosemary fade off somewhat.

The next phase will be more about lemon and moss, with tonka bean adding a touch of sweetness and powder to this aroma. YSL Haute Concentration drifts more into the aromatic soap category of perfume.

It’s not a lather and thankfully doesn’t go into the usual lavender/jasmine realm of things. It’s a classic and stylized clean, like you stepped out of the shower after washing with a high end soap bar (which my gift set that I purchased actually came with).

Finally, the dry down comes along. This one has a musk/oil ingredient in there somewhere. It’s not massive, but you can smell it. The lemon has been subdued into a mix of wood, patchouli, and moss. A fresher woody soap, at this point, but still balanced.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Based on reviews that I had read prior to buying this, I was expecting Haute Concentration to be an absolute bomb. For my bottle, that’s not the case. I did buy this one pre-opened, with 95%+ left in the bottle, so it’s possible that it’s lost some steam over the years.

Yet, it’s not weak. Solidly above average, allowing me to catch whiffs of the fragrance on my wrists, when I went outside for a walk.

During my initial tests, it seems to want to hit the 8-9 hour range, on my skin. Maybe it once got more than that. After at least 25 years or so, I have no problems with how this one sticks around. Still better than some modern designers, even as an EDT formulation.

Seasonally, this is a year round fragrance. It’s been both cold and warm during the tail end of this winter, and YSL Pour Homme is magnificent in either case. Maybe not a hottest days of summer play, if you’re going to be outside. However, it’s not super thick or cloying either.

This is one that can be worn casually, but I prefer it dressed up more. It functions well as a daily wear, office scent, and can even venture into the nightlife. Again, it’s clean and fresh, and might not be the ‘sexiest’ cologne out there.

Personally, I think it’s still attractive, and presents something different versus just about any mainstream fragrance out there now. Not a scream for attention night club or party scent, but you will smell great.

Overall Impressions of Haute Concentration

Overall do I like this fragrance? Yes, it’s a fantastic wear. It completely captures that 70-80s vibe, in a trimmed down but concentrated version of the original YSL Pour Homme. Again, I only have vague memories of that one, but it all seems familiar.

I like this better than both Kouros and Jazz, which are two other 1980s releases from YSL. I know Kouros gets all the headlines, but this is simply more appealing to me.

Very refined and doesn’t have any of the usual trappings of the modern men’s fragrance. It’s a fresh aromatic, with a balanced use of woodsy notes, spicy herbal notes, and a great lemon note. Even with that, somewhat sour start.

It’s a classic style, though, not particularly challenging to wear. There’s no insane or particularly heavy notes in here that might scare someone off. Maybe some bottles will still have more potency and you might not need to use much, lest you choke out a room.

It’s plenty versatile, balanced, and could probably be worn by any age group if they really wanted to. It exudes a classiness, however. Not necessarily straight formal, but I’d like to wear this outside of just the usual t-shirt and jeans.

It can be worthwhile to track down a bottle. I know most people searching for this and reading this review will be collector types, since the general public doesn’t know this even exists. The $108 price tag is about what you’d expect with some high end designers. Sure, it’s only a 2 oz bottle, but not a bad deal.

I’m going to be wearing YSL Pour Homme Haute Concentration, for years to come it seems.

Y EDP Intense by YSL

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Y EDP Intense is the latest offering in the series from YSL, after being released here in 2023. I purchased some samples in order to test it out and see whether it holds up to the rest of the line. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is Intense actually worth a try?

What does Y EDP Intense Smell Like?

Notes include: sage, patchouli, ginger, geranium, lavender, cedar, juniper berries

Click here to try: Y EDP Intense

y edp intense review

My Full Wear Review

Here’s how YSL describes it: This clean scent amplifies the iconic blend to the extreme by spicing it up with juniper berries and rich, woody patchouli. A deep blue sexy and fresh scent, with all-day-long intensity in a spray

The opening of Y EDP Intense is pretty familiar, in terms of what you get with the rest of the series. The same blue-ish aroma is there early, along with the powerful sage note from Y Eau de parfum (review).

Intense, doesn’t have the apple note, so, people who weren’t a fan of its sweetness may be pleased. It is replaced by a much shorter-lived juniper berry. I like its pairing here with the sage and other ingredients.

Early on you get a light bergamot, to go along with the cooler fresh spiciness. Geranium, ginger, and that sage note are all present creating a nice aromatic aroma.

I personally get around 20-30 minutes of this phase of the fragrance, before it begins to shift quite a bit. Things get earthier, warmer, less spicy.

The patchouli note is actually a large influence in the composition. This next phase is basically that, lavender, and geranium. Sage and juniper essentially fall off of the map.

This lasts for another hour or so, before it hits what you’re essentially going to get the rest of the way. However, during the shift the vetiver note, increases in strength until it eventually overtakes the patchouli.

The dry down is dry, woody, somewhat earthy, with some lavender hanging around still. Vetiver and patchouli are the main attractions, flanked by cedar, geranium, and lavender.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

So, that opening hour or so has pretty strong sillage. I might call it above average, just nothing insane. Especially, that first 30 minutes or so. It projects well and will leave a trail in your wake.

After that, it is a pretty intimate cologne after the first hour. By the third or so, it’s a skin scent. Really, I haven’t been getting great performance with this one.

The longevity is around 6.5 hours, on my skin. It’s strange, as I can get well into the double digit hours with Y EDP, much of the time. I have a full bottle of that and comparing these head to head, it’s really no contest.

Intense doesn’t have the Y EDP sillage or longevity.

Seasonally, EDP Intense actually has great versatility. Outside of the height of summer, this one could probably be worn without issue. I’ve worn it out on an extremely warm winter’s day and it did well. Also, have sprayed in the cold, and it fit in fine.

Stripped of its apple note, this has a slightly more mature profile than the original EDP. It’s not too intrusive, has a pleasantness about it, but I really wouldn’t call this one ‘sexy’ in any meaningful sense.

Casual to semi-formal, can go nightlife if need be. The fragrance’s versatility is where it can actually score higher marks.

Overall Impressions of Y EDP Intense

Overall, do I like Y EDP Intense? Eh, it’s okay. The opening is intriguing, but it doesn’t really do anything for me thereafter. I have to say, it’s my least favorite Y scent, as of now. Even Eau Fraiche, was more enjoyable, even with its limited use case.

Once past that opening, it’s pretty bland. Lots of patchouli, then more of a vetiver-led dry down. Which isn’t bad, but if you want a woody aromatic or fougere, there are better options out there than this.

Y EDP Intense isn’t even great with the performance. The sillage and longevity of the original EDP are way better than this. Sure, that apple note with the sage bothers some people. But, it lasts long and projects like a beast. This, not so much.

Personally, I don’t have much use case for this. It isn’t terrible. However, at that price point, I’d rather buy a lot of other scents. In this series, I’d rather wear pretty much any of them before coming to this one. A pretty mid-range release all around from YSL.

If you’re a fan of the Y line, but didn’t really like the apple, maybe this would work. I’d test it out for sure, before committing though.

Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent

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Rive Gauche is an absolutely classic fragrance from Yves Saint Laurent which dates back to 1971. As a consequence, this became a daily wear staple for a few generations of women. I got a hold of a decant to revisit this one, after probably close to 10 years of not coming across this perfume. How does it smell? How long does it last? Is it still worth a try?

What does Rive Gauche Smell Like?

Notes include: peach, lemon, honeysuckle, aldehydes, rose, oakmoss, vetiver, iris, musk, and more

My Full Review

Note: I am reviewing a decant from one of the later bottles of this perfume (not sure what year), after not experiencing it for a handful of years. Probably one that is considered to be ‘reformulated’ from the original 70s offering. 

Rive Gauche opens up with a fresh icy burst of aldehydes, light crisp fruit notes, and a further dewy/greenish sort of aroma. Personally, I tend to pick up a peach note, as the main aspect of the fruit accord. Though, that’s not overwhelming.

It is an interesting mix of dry freshness, the dew aroma, and the floral notes. The opening has an underlying dryness to it thanks to the oak moss and vetiver notes. The aldehydes here, always bring to mind Chanel for me, but Rive Gauche has a very dynamic and distinct personality all its own.

The floral notes do emerge, once we get past the start. I mean, rose comes across somewhat early, but this really becomes about the white floral notes. Gardenia and lily of the valley are going to be main attractions for this portion.

Iris, will help add a powdery smell for a duration, but that seems to disappear on my skin. I get much more powder, if I spray this one on clothing.

As it dries down, Rive Gauche still has that cold feeling, but the muskiness starts to ramp up when I wear it. The floral notes are less distinct from one another. I will say, once the iris has had its little run, its: rose, lily of the valley, and jasmine.

The final dry down is going to be woodier and muskier. Sandalwood, vetiver, and musk are the main trio. The floral note and aldehydes are all that remain from earlier, but sit underneath those notes, and are more of a generic impression than being easy to separate out.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage is actually fairly strong, on the whole. This will leave a trail behind you and can reach pretty far across the room, at least early on.

It does moderate fairly quickly, with a limited amount of sprays. But, Rive Gauche does give you the option of going heavy and getting a much better performance.

The decant that I had, had really a really solid wear time. I could get it to last on skin for between 8-8.5 hours, during testing. Nothing insanely good, but still nothing to be disappointed in.

Seasonally, this could be worn almost anytime. I’d pick something else for the extremes of winter and summer, but outside of that, no worries. It’s ideal in springtime, though.

It’s very versatile as a daily wear. Not really a sexy nightlife perfume, but one with an ability to go more formal, if need be. While still finding a way to be fairly casual, also.

Overall Impressions of Rive Gauche

Do I like Rive Gauche? Yes, this is an example of an aldehyde soaked white floral fragrance that I enjoy. It’s not one of my favorite types of perfume, but this YSL is one, that I’ve always appreciated.

I was reminded of Rive Gauche again by two perfumes, one a Cartier (that I liked, can’t remember which), and one was Guilty Love Edition by Gucci (not a like). Both had a similar style, while not duplicating the Saint Laurent’s exact aroma.

I like the initial cold freshness with the hints of peach and even the greenish qualities. The floral notes are there doing their thing, with an increasing influence as we move along. There’s plenty of depth here and a classic style.

This may not be one for everybody, but it has been appreciated for over 50 years, for a reason. Rive Gauche is likeable and one that you can return to again and again.

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

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Kouros is one of the most famous men’s fragrances of all-time. Released in 1981, it has been a topic of discussion, both positively and negatively ever since. It’s one that I’ve had familiarity with in the past, but never did a full review for the site. Recently, I grabbed a decant of one of the more modern batches in order to finally put something to record. How does it smell? Is it still super strong? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Kouros Smell Like?

Notes include: clove, coriander, ambergris, sage, artemisia, leather, cinnamon, jasmine, musk, moss, and more 

Click here to try: Kouros by YSL

My Full Review

Note: I am only reviewing the latest batch here. I don’t have a time machine or 40 year old bottle that’s still good handy, so, that’s what is being rated/described here.

So, Kouros was one of my earlier fragrance encounters, while trying out parts of the old YSL lineup 15+ years ago. This, Opium, and Kouros Body were among those that I tested out. The latter two, were the one’s that I ended up purchasing. I wore both for a long time.

I think to the less experienced me, Kouros came across as being too bold for me to really want to wear. However, I didn’t dislike the scent either, and it’s one that I’ve come across every few years since.

Nowadays, I doesn’t garner the same shocking reaction to it’s strength and uniqueness when compared to modern scents. I’ve gotten used to a lot of the colognes of decades pasts and the ingredients that don’t get much use any longer with the popular scents.

Plus, if it has indeed been modernized and reformulated, maybe it doesn’t pack the same punch as the 1981 version.

The opening spray of Kouros is fresh, dry, with a spicy kick. Aldehydes and musk, really come through to my nose. The aldehydes remind me quite a bit of Chanel No. 5. Same sort of cold brightness (maybe a touch of bergamot?). The musk gives this a rough fuzziness, which is enhanced by the spice notes.

I’m going to go with mostly coriander, sage, and patchouli for what I’m smelling. It’s pretty balanced and I’m not getting too much in the way of cinnamon. At this stage, it’s an earthy/musky aromatic sort of fragrance.

Maybe because they weren’t actually using civet for this newer era of batches, Kouros doesn’t really come across as being all that ‘dirty’.

Some earthiness, yes, but it’s more of the plants/leaves (geranium for a time, comes out) than the earth itself or any sort of animaliac influence. It’s a modern musk with some roughness to it.

A lot of the spice burns off pretty quickly. Whatever molecule they’re using to represent oakmoss nowadays, is what begins to come to the forefront. Kouros starts to smell cleaner, smoother, and with soapy touches.

After that spice has gone, you do get a good dose of artemisia. I smelled Luna Rossa Ocean again, a few days ago, and do pick up on their shared ingredients, including the artemisia.

The dryness remains throughout the wear, Kouros does however become sweeter and a tad more floral. Honey, carnation, and tonka bean. Still fresh with the aldehydes now combining with the moss and an emergent leather.

‘Urinal cakes’ is something that often gets used to describe what this smells like. It doesn’t. I think people have some associations with that due to the interplay of the musk, artemisia, and jasmine.  That clean fuzzy floral, probably triggers the association for some people, but it doesn’t actually ‘smell’ like a clean bathroom.

The final stages of Kouros is a slightly leather musky floral/herbal fragrance. There’s sweetness to it still, but it comes across as being very much a barbershop type of finish. Nothing too outlandish, but attractive and classic.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this still absolutely brings it, but it isn’t insane. I remember it having much more projection and ability to leave a scent trail. Nonetheless, it is still a powerful fragrance, just nothing extreme.

This modern formulation also has really good, just not totally elite staying power. 9-ish hours, on my skin, with an ability to just cross the ten hour mark at times.

Spectacular? Not really, but still better than a lot of stuff currently on the market.

Versatility wise, this one does have limitations. First of all, it can indeed be something folks either love or hate. I think the talk of it being hated, got extreme, and it’s really not going to cause poor reaction from others in most situations…if they even notice Kouros at all.

Seasonally, this YSL is awesome in the cooler weather. It’s above freezing right now in November, but walking outside brings Kouros to life and it hangs very well in the cold air. I would avoid wearing this in high heat and humidity, though.

It’s a solid business scent, casual, semi-formal, and even possibly date nights for some guys. It wouldn’t be out of place, as a romantic fragrance, as there is a certain sexiness with such a masculine fragrance.

Kouros definitely skews older, but isn’t ‘old mannish’. If you’re younger and want to try it, I’d probably not wear it to school or something like that. Just know that it’s going to be quite different from what almost any other guy is going to be wearing. Classic, but not anachronistic.

Overall Impressions of Kouros

Overall, do I like Kouros? Yes, I do still enjoy this one. It’s never been a total love for me and I don’t really understand the repulsion that others can have for it. Personally, I always liked Kouros Body more, as that was such a unique and awesome flanker.

Kouros is without a doubt a classic and an important men’s fragrance historically. Pierre Bourdon deserves plenty of credit for creating this one (his Live Jazz was also another banger, now lost to time).

The opening act is nice enough. The spices and aldehydes do their thing well, but I prefer the dry down, once you get some sweetness and leather involved. Neither ever truly overwhelms the muskiness, but I like what those notes bring to the table.

This is a cologne that still has plenty of life, solid performance, and isn’t just some museum piece that cannot be worn out. It’s not going to be for everyone, but Kouros will still get plenty of new fans, out of those willing to give it a try.