Cologne Reviews

Vanille de Tahiti by Perris Monte Carlo

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Vanille de Tahiti was released by Perris Monte Carlo in 2020. I received a sample as a bonus to one of my orders some time ago. I hadn’t heard of this one and actually put off trying it out for a long while. But, eventually I got around to Vanille and wanted to see what it was all about. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

Vanille de Tahiti Overview

Notes include: champaca, ylang-ylang, vanilla, amber, sandalwood, musk

Click here to try: Vanille de Tahiti

My Full Review

Opening minute is pretty dirty with how it comes across. Between the the ylang-ylang influence and champaca  opening, I get why people might get put off by it. That does clear out pretty fast, for me at least.

The ylang-ylang initially has its earthier aroma going for it, but then starts to take on its more banana-like scent. The champaca here, really comes across as an orange flower note, at least a few minutes in. With those two and the vanilla, there plastic/rubbery tinge to this scent.

Much more floral on the skin. Like a tropical flower smell, once that initial dirtiness wears off. The vanilla seems like one part of a triad on the skin, whereas it feels more dominant early on, when sprayed on clothes.

Actually on clothes, this has a classier Le Male vibe to it, that same fuzzy spice (sans mint/cinnamon). Strange.

Eventually, both on skin and clothes it becomes very much the same. Still, an early divergence.

More of a light champaca, ylang-ylang with a definite sweetness, vanilla, and amber especially. The vanilla isn’t pure creamy vanilla either. Leans that way with the sandalwood influence but Vanille de Tahiti does have a musky/powdery undertone throughout.

The dry down for me is a rather simple aroma of a naturalistic vanilla, amber, and sandalwood. It’s creamier at this point, still a lovely sweetness without being sickly, and this Perris perfume has a nice balance.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This is a moderate fragrance with how it projects with a lighter scent trail. It’s not going to necessarily reach across the room. However, in my testing of it, it does create a nice scent bubble and is noticeable for almost the entire wear.

The longevity with this one is around 7-8 hours. It’s not the most powerful scent out there, but it does stick around for a good while. It’s nothing elite, but I really wasn’t disappointed with this Perris fragrance.

Seasonally, this one is a bit too much for the height of summer, but it can fit in nicely during the rest of the year. I think it actually works better on a mild day versus the coldest days of winter.

Yes, this is a unisex scent too. Maybe the floral notes make it lean more traditionally feminine, but if you’re a vanilla fan, this can absolutely work for anyone.

Vanille de Tahiti is more of a daytime fragrance. It can be worn casually, to work, dressed up, etc. I don’t think it’d be out of place in certain nightlife situations, but it’s also not a complete club beast or anything.

If it works for your skin, this will probably get complements. Though, I’m not sure how it’s going to come across to those who have noses the really focus in on the more animalic/dirty aspects of the perfume.

Overall Impressions of Vanille de Tahiti

Overall, do I like this perfume? Yes, I actually kind of love it. I knew nothing of this fragrance when I received it, but it’s won me over.

The opening minutes almost made me doubt, but it is a beautiful scent, once I’m past that. Even still, it’s nothing all that bad.

I guess there are some people who get a dirty or toilet type of smell for a long duration. Not the case for me, it’s more just a dirty floral scent for a brief time.

That’s probably going to stop me from giving this a total buy recommendation. I’d say for sure try, if you can before you commit. It’d be disappointing to find out you’re one of those people, who it smells terrible on, after splurging on a fully bottle.

The sandalwood, vanilla, and amber dry down is awesome. With the remaining floral notes floating around, it’s very enjoyable.

Santal 33 by Le Labo

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Santal 33 has been a massive (I mean, massive) hit for Le Labo since its release back in 2011. There was a time when it was talked about and referenced all of the time. Now, it has calmed down since that earlier era, but still exists as a wildly popular best-seller.

I bought another sample of this unisex perfume in order to revisit and finally put up a full review of Santal 33 for the site. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it still worth a try?

Santal 33 Overview

Notes include: sandalwood, papyrus, leather, violet, cedar, cardamom, iris, amber

Click here to try: Santal 33

My Full Review

To start with, I guess I’ll address the so-called ‘pickle juice’ smell that Santal 33 gets painted with. I can understand why, if certain aspects of this really pop on your skin, but for me I only get a faint bit of it.

Really, this one starts off with a mix of cardamom, violet, some leather, and the ever-present dry woods. Papyrus is the lead wood on me for a while, which will obviously shift to the star of the show, the namesake sandalwood.

The cardamom is the lead. Which, interestingly isn’t the type that gives off the lemony aroma, here it feels fresher with its spice and somewhat camphorous. The cooling sensation is interesting against the papyrus and the violet especially.

Already, I get the powdery qualities of that floral note and the iris. Thankfully, for my own enjoyment, the violet note is kept in check here.

After a while, Santal 33 becomes a clean mix of the floral notes, with the woods which are shifting. Cedar comes on stronger, papyrus fades, and the sandalwood keeps gaining steam.

There is a period here, mostly in the middle act, where I think this Le Labo fragrance really shines. It becomes perfectly balance between the violet, iris, leather, amber, and sandalwood (and other woods). It’s slightly sweet, comforting, smooth, and just great to catch a whiff of.

The dry down is still soft, really dominated by sandalwood and the remnants of everything else. It actually takes on a muskier kind of profile. Dry and still clean, with a light touch of sweetness, and any spice has fallen away.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This one has a lighter feeling with a pretty substantial projection, in the first few hours. Not a complete beast, unless you start spraying heavy, but I can smell it on me without issue. I can also put some on a shirt and smell it from 6-7 feet away.

Still, this one isn’t heavy and doesn’t feel like it’ll bog you down in a heavy cloud of scent.

On my skin, Santal 33 will last for 7-8 hours. Not amazing, but still very solid for what this one is. It could just fall into being a barely noticeable skin scent. Yet, it doesn’t hit that level for me until deep into the wear.

Seasonally, this is almost a year round fragrance. On the hottest and most humid days of summer, I might go with something else other than this. Outside of that, it should work just fine.

Yes, it is a unisex fragrance. Perhaps slightly more feminine, but I don’t think it strays to far that way, and should work for most people.

Santal 33 is very versatile. Daytime, casual, office wear, school, etc. It’s not entirely formal but doesn’t feel too out of place anywhere. It’s not a straight nightlife perfume either, there are obviously sexier scents, but it’s clean enough that it could work a night.

Overall Impressions of Santal 33

Overall, do I like Santal 33? I do. If I’m just making a decision off of the scent alone, I do still find this one to be thoroughly enjoyable.

Sure, it has been hyped to the stratosphere over the past decade-plus and copied countless times. Still, Santal 33 is a good fragrance. I’m not ever blown away by it, but it has its charm.

That entry into the heart of the note pyramid is actually great, though. The opening is probably its weakest part. It’s fine, 33 just gets better after that.

I think in certain areas especially, everyone wore this perfume for years, which can understandably be grating. This is what is currently happening with Baccarat Rouge 540.

The performance is above average and to me there’s no real downside with this one, other than no longer having a unique aroma.

Most people like this one. Some people love it. While still others, loathe it. At the very least, Santal 33 is a perfume that is indeed worth a try. Even if, it’s just to satisfy your curiosity about the hype, if you’re someone who has yet to try it.

Cedre Blanc EDP by Creed

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Cedre Blanc is a Creed fragrance that I had never gotten around to testing out. It was released back in 2014. But, when I saw a sample of it available online, I threw it in one of my batch orders. So, I really had no expectations of this fragrance going in. How does it smell? Does Cedre Blanc last long? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Cedre Blanc Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, bay leaf, galbanum, cardamom, geranium, lily, jasmine, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood

My Full Review

Cedre Blanc opens up with a lot going on. It’s fresh and woody, as the name suggests. But, there is also a bright, juicy, and sour bergamot coming through. Also, some greenish and somewhat bitter galbanum. Plus, a host of spiciness from mostly bay leaf (with some cardamom).

It’s a bunch to take in. However, it works well enough, especially if this is your type of perfume. Which, I will say up front, isn’t going to be most people’s cup of tea.

The next phase is more floral with jasmine and lily. There is still the spiciness of the bay leaf, but much of the bitterness and the citrus has moved on.

Less of an intense spice, more of a fresh and clean woods (hints of a watery accord, probably lily and remaining bergamot). Geranium, vetiver, and our cedar note are already making themselves known.

Finally, Cedre Blanc is a fresh and greenish fragrance with undertones of the floral notes. Cedar, geranium, galbanum, vetiver, florals, and the sandalwood. Very clean with sort of a mossy-like aroma. The complexity of the opening tones way down and this Creed becomes pretty simple.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

That initial spray does have some intensity to it. As I said, there’s a lot going on here at first, and it’s also pretty loud.

Still, it does have a freshness about it, and it’s not a completely heavy fragrance. That initial projection is quite good though. After that, it will quickly become a softer scent.

Honestly, it was kind of surprising how quickly this one calmed down into something which sat so close to the skin. Much of the wear will be about a 1-3 radius from where you sprayed Cedre Blanc.

The longevity is also kind of lacking. For me, I got somewhere around six hours during my testing of it. If this were a $40 perfume, I wouldn’t be too mad. At Creed prices, it’s pretty bad.

This is a spring and summer wear. It’s nicer to smell while outside than indoors. I was walking around on a warmer day with it on and that’s when I was most impressed by what Cedre Blanc brings to the table.

Pretty much a daytime wear, however. Not one that’s going to be a nightlife or date night sort of wear. It’s a unisex perfume, but it leans masculine, even with the floral influence.

Unique, in a lot of ways, but this is a fragrance for those who want something niche. It’s pleasant enough, but wasn’t ever going to enjoy mass appeal.

Overall Impressions of Cedre Blanc

Overall, do I like Cedre Blanc? It’s not for me. I don’t think it’s bad, it’s certainly unique, but it’s really nothing special.

Especially, at the Creed price point. There’s probably a very limited market for this, which is why it appears to be discontinued now. So, if this one was of interest to you, you’d better get a move on finding a sample or biting the bullet and buying a full bottle.

I do enjoy the bay leaf note that’s in here. It’s an ingredient that is more of a ‘once in a while’ type of thing for me, but I did appreciate it. The dry down is also a highlight. Things have settled down and there isn’t the same initial bitterness.

Performance does leave much to be desired. Really not powerful stuff, outside of a sharp opening act. A pretty intimate scent bubble and less than a full work day of wear for sure. Again, Cedre Blanc is absolutely not a value play, you’ve really got to like this scent for it to be worthwhile.

Not something I want. Nor will most people, but there is a small percentage of you, that would really appreciate this blend. How much that’s worth to you, is your call.

Jazz Club by Maison Martin Margiela

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Jazz Club is one of the more popular fragrances released under the Replica banner from Maison Margiela. This one came out back in 2013. I recently bought a new sample of this perfume to test out and do a full review of. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Replica Jazz Club Smell Like?

Notes include: pink pepper, lemon, neroli, rum, tobacco, vetiver, clary sage, vanilla, styrax

Click here to try: Jazz Club Replica

My Full Review

Jazz Club opens up with its spiciness taking center stage. You do get aromatic undertones and sweetness coming through, but that pink pepper and rum are pretty prominent early on.

Mostly, I get those two notes and the tobacco at this beginning stage of the wear. Touches of citrus from lemon and neroli (more neroli), some of the clary sage, but those first three really have a hold here.

The pink pepper is the first note that will begin to falter, with vanilla and vetiver stepping up. It feels sweeter, dryer, and more tobacco heavy than the opening act.

The rum will enter this stage as a co-equal leader with the tobacco, but be much weaker by the end. For me, it really doesn’t fall off completely until the very last gasps of this fragrance’s wear time.

So, a vanilla and tobacco blend with sweetness, some incense-like smokiness, the remaining rum, and a soft ambery kind of base.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

While this can have a bold start and it is somewhat heavy and built for the colder months, I don’t find Jazz Club to be one that projects massively past the first hour.

It’s a bit above average in that regard, just not by much. The back half of the wear is going to be sitting pretty close to the skin. More intimate than a complete skin scent, though.

The longevity here, is pretty good for me. Nothing outstanding, but I can get up to about 7 hours of wear, on a good day. Going to be closer to six hours, other times.

Not a complete workhorse, but decent enough. Especially, if I’m only wearing it for a night out.

Seasonally, this one is all about the autumn and winter months. Jazz Club with its booziness and smokiness, is a cold weather staple. But, those factors also make it more of a nighttime wear, since you probably don’t want to show up to work smelling like rum.

This is a casual, going out fragrance, maybe some romantic wear. It is a scent that people generally like and will complement, it’s just not the most formal fragrance out there. However, that cozy feeling Jazz Club can generate, will be well worth the price of admission for many people.

Overall Impressions of Jazz Club

Overall, do I like Jazz Club? Yes, it’s definitely one of my favorites from Maison Margiela. Personally, By the Fireplace is my favorite and the one that I have a full bottle of.

This is a better bet for those who don’t want something as sweet as By the Fireplace. It’s still got that for sure, but it’s also not as spicy as Fireplace either. Smoky yet smooth with its tobacco note. Not overly complex, but enjoyable.

I do really like that initial burst of the rum note. I’m not too hot on the pink pepper, but it works well enough. Really, the highlight is when you get a more distributed mix of the rum and the tobacco notes working together and the emergence of vanilla.

The performance could be better, but it isn’t so terrible to make this not worth checking out. Again, I do think this is one of the better offerings from this designer, particularly for men. If it sounds interesting to you, don’t hesitate to give it a go.

New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

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New Haarlem is one of the longest running of the Bond No. 9 offerings, having been released back in 2003. I recently grabbed another sample of this scent, since I hadn’t worn it in a few years. So, I’m here to post a fresh review of the perfume to see if it still holds up.

What does New Haarlem by Bond No. 9 smell like?

Notes include: lavender, bergamot, green leaves, coffee, cedar, vanilla, tonka bean, patchouli, amber

Click here to try: New Haarlem

My Full Review

I’m not usually big on lavender fragrances, but New Haarlem is one that I’ve always liked a lot. The opening act is fresh and bright with a touch of the bergamot citrus note, but it is going to be dominated by the lavender.

This scent will become richer and creamier, as we dry down. But, early it’s got itself a great aromatic vibe with its generic ‘green notes’ and light citrus touch.

The other note that will pop off, about 10 minutes in is cedar. It’s a lavender and cedar affair at this point, with the sweetness of coffee/vanilla/tonka bean already starting to come through.

Fresh woodsy, but still quite clean in how it comes across. This does have some outdoorsy touches throughout, but it isn’t a ‘dirty’ or very ‘earthy’ kind of fragrance.

At some point, the coffee will begin to take over the number one spot. Lavender doesn’t go away, it just begins to be outshined. With that, we will have more of a gourmand phase into the dry down.

Patchouli, vanilla, and tonka bean. Mainly, the vanilla will join the coffee and lavender notes, as this one takes on its creamier aspects. At times, it will indeed have a syrupy kind of smell, but it’s not too noticeable on me.

Warmer with a touch of amber to go with the vanilla and tonka bean in the finish. I do still get lavender at the end, but the coffee is really coming through on my skin.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

New Haarlem was never a complete bomb for me. It was always strong and quite substantial, but it never reached the upper echelons in terms of its power.

That being said, it projects quite well and can feel somewhat heavy in the warmer weather. Though, this fragrance will moderate itself a few hours into the wear. Still, well above average with its performance.

The longevity hasn’t taken a dip at all. I still get well into the double digits, in terms of hours that New Haarlem will last on my skin. 11-12 seems to be pretty standard for me with this one.

It’s great that even after 20+ years of being on the market, the formula hasn’t been degraded in the slightest.

Seasonally, this is mainly an autumn and winter wear, mainly. I think that it’s fine on a mild spring day, as well. Though, as I mentioned above, New Haarlem isn’t built for the warmer weather. So, I’d go with something else then.

This is indeed a unisex perfume. Heavier use of lavender does usually get associated with men’s colognes, but I have to say that this doesn’t stray too far in the masculine direction. It does seem to lean that way, but nothing that most women couldn’t pull off as well.

Maybe, just test it out, before committing to a full bottle. I will say this is more unisex than New York Nights (which also uses coffee) or R.E.M. by Ariana Grande (which uses lavender and caramel). New Haarlem is probably closer to Coffee Break by Maison Margiela, in this regard.

While not completely a formal perfume, New Haarlem does have enough style to not stick out like a sore thumb, in most scenarios. It’s got enough versatility to be a daytime wear for many people, while also being able to venture easily into the nightlife.

I personally find it to be a great wear, on a colder night, when going out to dinner or hanging out in a lounge type of environment.

Overall Impressions of New Haarlem

Overall, do I still like New Haarlem? I do. While it isn’t my absolute favorite from this brand, I do think that it is still among the best smelling perfumes from Bond No. 9.

The scent is still very good, it’s unique enough, and the performance still delivers (even at the expensive price point).

I like that aromatic freshness, the greenish aroma, and the bergamot early on. It manages to make the lavender quite lovely throughout.

Of course, I’m a fan of coffee notes in perfumes, and New Haarlem will shift in that direction in the back half. Which, is awesome. The vanilla, hints of cedar, and the like make this a pretty enjoyable experience.

I do think that this is worth trying out at the very least, if not a full buy. It’d still be one of the ones from Bond No. 9, that I’d recommend testing first, before deep diving into their full catalog of fragrances.