Cologne Reviews

Le Male Elixir by Jean Paul Gaultier

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Another year brings us another Le Male flanker from JPG. However, this year’s edition called ‘Elixir’, has been getting a ton of attention and hype since its announcement and subsequent release in Europe. It’s finally here in the US and I purchased a bottle for myself to test out. How does Elixir smell? Is it long lasting? Is it actually worth a buy?

What does Le Male Elixir Smell Like?

Notes include: mint, honey, lavender, tonka bean, benzoin, tobacco, vanilla

Click here to try: Le Male Elixir at Macy’s

My Full Review

Here’s how JPG describes it: Le Male Elixir sports a gold-striped sailor top with transparent amber reflections that reveal his powerful physique and coppery skin. This bottle of desire contains an intense and aromatic woody, amber perfume. This fragrance sets the atmosphere ablaze and revitalises the skin.

The opening spray is minty with a cooling spice. The original Le Male pairing of that mint and lavender is quite apparent. This time, the vanilla note is initially pretty subdued, in favor of the tonka bean.

It doesn’t smell the same, but I get a similar vibe from Chanel Allure Sport Eau Extreme with the mint and heavy tonka opening act. This is for sure sweeter and has a syrupy quality to it, but it was strange to have Elixir trigger that scent memory.

This phase is pretty quickly moved through. The honey and fuzzy amber warmth of the benzoin will quickly seep into the aroma. Less coolness after 5-10 minutes and the scent has the permanent honey glaze for the rest of the wear.

I don’t find the honey or even the tobacco note to be particularly heavy in this mix, but they are certainly noticeable.

The closest comparable fragrance to this is Le Male Le Parfum. However, I do think they are different for most of the way.

In Le Parfum, the dry down of lavender, vanilla, and amber is close to what you get at times with Elixir. But, Elixir’s honey, tobacco, and that tonka bean gives it an added layer. I absolutely think that it’s enough to distinguish them in the back half of the wear.

Earlier, the similarities are fewer as the cardamom and iris notes found in Le Parfum’s first hour aren’t here at all.

So, as we get into the back half, the freshness of the mint is miniscule. Elixir is about its tonka bean and vanilla combination, lavender, honey soaked tobacco, and the less fuzzy now benzoin.

The vanilla slowly eats away at the dominance of the tonka bean throughout the wear. It probably starts off close to 80/20 and then reverses in favor of vanilla, by the end.

The sweetness here is somewhat cloying, it’s worse in the heat. But, I don’t find it to be oppressively thick (earlier, it is a heavier feeling) or too sugary. Again, I’d call the honey a glaze-like effect, even with the amber base.

So, that’s the end of it. Basically, the vanilla and lavender of Le Parfum with that honeyed tobacco influence. This is JPG’s masculine version of La Belle EDP, it would seem.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This is absolutely one of the loudest, most likely to leave a long scent trail, and furthest projecting colognes of the series. It’s still a notch below Ultra Male (at least the original bottles, not sure if it’s been weakened over time).

Le Male Elixir is a powerhouse, that certainly outdoes Le Parfum, which never struck me as being all that massive with its reach. You don’t need a lot with Elixir and you certainly get your money’s worth, in terms of performance.

It will last around 9 hours, but is capable of going beyond that. I’d say around 10.5 hours, during this initial testing run. If I get it to go beyond that, I’ll come back and update.

That’s me testing it out indoors, since this was released at the height of summer in the US. Which, seasonally, that’s not what this is built for.

Autumn and winter, mainly. Potential to move into spring, based on where you live or what you’re going to use this for.

I will say, I think this has more versatility than Ultra Male. That one, I loved a lot initially, even if it was limited to nightlife wear. Still like it, but something I break out once in a while, nowadays.

Elixir is also geared more towards the nightlife and wear for younger guys. It’s one of the louder and sort of obnoxious flankers of the Le Male line, which is one of the things that makes it great.

But, I also think that this could be used better in casual daily situations and has a sweet/warm cozy vibe, that can lend itself to a couple of sprays, and not stick out like a sore thumb. So, not a bad option for school, if you go light.

For professional environments, I’d go with something else entirely. Save this one for your down time, as this is not a formal scent. Fun to wear, but there’s a time and place for it and the office probably isn’t it for most guys.

Overall Impressions of Le Male Elixir

Overall, do I like Elixir? Absolutely. While I still think the original Le Male Le Parfum is still the best daily wear of the series, this one, might be my new favorite flanker. Like, the scent itself has the highest peak, but it’s not something I’d want to wear each day.

It’s better than Le Parfum with its complexity, has taken the place of Ultra Male, and pretty easily beats out Airlines. I’ve been wearing the original quite a lot lately and this will be the next choice out of the five Le Male’s I own.

From the minty fresh and tonka bean opening, into the emergence of the honey and tobacco, I am enthralled with Elixir. Smelling it up close on the skin, I’m less taken with it, but it really hangs around beautifully.

It’s without a doubt one of the better mainstream designer scents this year. I bought and enjoy 1 Million Royal, but this one gets my vote in comparison.

Just as a Le Male flanker, it’s already a special one, with so many forgettable releases like In the Navy in the back catalog.

If you don’t like other Le Male colognes, I don’t think this is going to change your mind. It’s probably not going to be your style. Also, if the sweeter and bold fragrances don’t do it for you, you can probably safely skip it.

Otherwise, this is one I would absolutely recommend trying out, if it sounds interesting to you. At least find it in store to let yourself experience a few sprays out of a tester, before committing to a full bottle.

Still, I think it’s among the best JPG fragrances. Not for everyone, though.

Does Elixir live up to the hype? It’s not the best fragrance ever, but it is indeed very good. For the bold and playful style of this Gaultier series, it is an absolute hit.

Blackberry Brandy by Dua Brand

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Blackberry Brandy was one of the Dua originals that I wanted to try out, when I came across it on the website. So, I bought one of the travel size vials for testing and full review. I wanted to see how the boozy perfume actually smelled and if it was actually worthwhile. Below is my experience with this scent.

What does Blackberry Brandy smell like?

Notes include: blackberry, berries, black cherry liqueur, cedar, amber, brandy, labdanum, vanilla

Click here to try: Blackberry Brandy

My Full Review

Blackberry Brandy starts off with the fruity end of its personality taking the lead. Yes, the blackberry will be here throughout, but the cherry liqueur note will be very prominent at the start.

There are some further berry notes here, but mostly get overshadowed by the blackberry itself.

Brandy is obvious too, from the very beginning. The note doesn’t take time to develop and it too sticks around the entire time.

After 10 or so minutes, I’ll pick up some warmer amber and labdanum notes. There’s some spice, still mostly sweet, and the boozy effect of the brandy note.

The initial fruits will fade, sands the blackberry. At this point, the blackberry is in charge, with the brandy playing second fiddle. Vanilla really comes through here, playing sort of a balancing role with the amber base.

To me, the only real change during the final dry down is that this perfume becomes more brandy dominant with blackberry falling back some. Less fruity, more boozy.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Blackberry Brandy does have a thicker and warmer kind of feeling while wearing it. Not super heavy or a massive projector. more like a cozy cloud of perfume. A bit above average with its reach, just not going to blow the doors off.

The fragrance lasts right about 7 hours, on my skin. It’s fine, nothing extreme, but slightly above average versus many other scents on the market. On the whole, the performance is pretty good, just not amazing.

Seasonally, this is autumn and winter all the way. Within that time frame, you’ll most likely want to wear this casually during the day or as more of a nighttime fragrance. Probably not the best idea to show up to the office smelling like brandy, so, it’s probably a bit more limited than other perfumes in that sense.

In the cold, however, this one really shines. It just hangs beautifully in the air around you and is quite comforting.

Overall Impressions of Blackberry Brandy

Overall, do I like Blackberry Brandy? Yes, but not completely in love with it. I’ve been trying to like the smell of brandy more than I actually do, it seems. I prefer rum, cognac, and whiskey fragrances when I want some booziness.

However, if you’re a big fan of brandy, this is for sure one to check out. It does everything well, the warmth, the blackberry note, the cherry liqueur, and that brandy note itself.

It’s not super complicated, but I like the depth of the aroma that the vanilla, amber, and labdanum notes add to this one. That cherry liqueur really stands out to me early and I like it a lot.

Performance is good, not incredible, but probably enough for what most people would use this fragrance for. It’s worth a shot or maybe try out one of their other brandy perfumes, if you’re not super into the smell of blackberry.

Bleu Noir Parfum by Narciso Rodriguez

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Bleu Noir is a series from Narciso Rodriguez that I’ve been meaning to do full reviews on, for a while now. I bought samples of EDP and today’s entry released in 2022, Bleu Noir parfum. I’d already come across this before, but wanted to do a deeper dive into how it smells and if it’s actually worth buying.

What does Bleu Noir Parfum for Him Smell Like?

Notes include: iris, musk, cardamom, cypress, bergamot, mandarin orange, suede, tonka bean, leather, vetiver, cedar

Click here to try: Bleu Noir Parfum

My Full Review

Here’s how Narciso Rodriguez describes it: mysterious and audacious. Iris notes. Sensual musk. Addictive wood.

From the start, you do get the similarities to Dior Homme Intense. Not exactly the same, by any means, but elements are there. However, the opening act here doesn’t touch that of Intense, which is fantastic. This has similarities, but isn’t nearly as enticing as the Dior.

The iris is present early, as is the signature Narciso Rodriguez musk note. I do get light touches of citrus which gives this one a brightness. The cypress and cardamom notes really do alter it from the same path as the Dior, though.

I’m not a massive fan of cypress and paired with cardamom, Bleu Parfum has an aroma similar to AdG Profondo Lights sans the sea notes (those aren’t the only two overlapping notes). A fragrance that I really don’t care for. So, it is like a tug of war between Dior Homme Intense and Profondo Lights and the musk/woods of Bleu EDP.

The fragrance will transition into its next stage, that is much smoother with a falling away of the cardamom especially (also much of the cypress). Here, we get the suede/leather combination, tonka bean to sweeten and add powder to the iris, and a general musky woods base.

Clean with some slightly soapy qualities.

With Bleu Noir EDP, I get a much more defined use of the vetiver and cedar notes than with Parfum. It’s like the original formula sitting underneath the iris and leathery notes. That’s essentially how it dries down.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here isn’t heavy feeling, more moderate, but it does have the ability to project itself quite a ways. Solidly above average and I got a longer time with this level of power before it began to diminish, unlike some other popular iris colognes.

On my skin Bleu Parfum lasts over 8 hours, each time. It can hit the 9-9.5 hour mark too, but that didn’t seem consistent. With a full bottle, I’d say it will get to that upper band more. Either way, the performance is not an issue here.

Parfum is almost a year round scent, outside of the extreme heat of summer or if you’re going to be outside in a more tropical environment. It’s nice enough, when it’s warm out, but I do prefer it in the cooler temperatures that you’d get in autumn or winter.

The good news continues, as this Narciso Rodriguez cologne is also very versatile. You could wear this day or night, casual or more dressed up. It’s clean enough to fit in most places and not too overbearing, as to cause offense.

Overall Impressions of Bleu Noir Parfum

Overall, do I like Bleu Noir Parfum? Yes, but I don’t think that it is better than the fragrances that it gets compared to. The Parfum version is better than the EDP, however.

The opening act is fine, just my least favorite aspect of this fragrance. The reminder of Profondo Lights versus what I get with Dior Homme Intense, just doesn’t hold up head to head.

Though, the middle act and dry down of Bleu Noir Parfum is more enjoyable, more unique, and very good. Plus, you do get plenty of time to spend with it, since the performance is long lasting and not at all weak.

I wouldn’t be opposed to getting this one versus the Dior, since it is usually a bit cheaper, but not always. If that’s not an option, I’m getting the Dior. Nonetheless, Bleu Noir Parfum is a very good entry and well worth checking out.

His Aspiration (Edition Bianca) by Dua Brand

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His Aspiration Edition Bianca is an inspired creation from the Dua Brand based on the formula of Allure Homme Edition Blanche. Seeing as that is one of my favorite Chanel fragrances to wear, in the summertime, I wanted to test if this one was up to par. So, I bought a small sprayer size from Dua months ago in order to post a review. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

What does His Aspiration Edition Bianca Smell Like?

Notes include: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, vetiver, musk, bergamot, lemon, vanilla, musk, and pink pepper

Click here to try: His Aspiration Edition Bianca

My Full Review

As with Chanel’s Edition Blanche this Dua fragrance opens up with the lemon out in full effect. Surprisingly, I do get a good deal of bergamot coming through ass well, a nice sour bite to match the lemon intensity.

Crisp, fresh, dry, with a little bit of spice. My batch doesn’t seem to have too much pink pepper involved, even in the early stages. That’s probably a good thing.

Underneath that citrus, tonka bean. The vanilla will come on somewhat, but I get a lot of tonka bean, much like in the Allure Homme Sport series.

At this point, it’s very close to what you’re getting with the Chanel. Chanel Edition Blanche have seemed to have more or less vanilla, depending on which batch I’ve received. Sometimes, it’s much creamier and others dry.

For this Dua, it tracks towards the latter. Some of that bergamot burns off, the lemon remains strong, and a blend of vetiver and sandalwood is very noticeable.

Lemon, sandalwood, and vetiver are the stars for the rest of the wear. Everything else, is jockeying for position underneath those three. Mostly, this consists of the vanilla/tonka bean pairing, cedar, and some amber.

It does have a more balanced approach with less lemon dominance, more creaminess, and a crisp baked goods aroma with the way the woods interacts with the lemon and vanilla.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage and projection ability is slightly better versus Edition Blanche. His Aspiration, will maybe give you an extra foot or two at its peak, in terms of radius. 4-7 feet or thereabouts. It also won’t diminish nearly as fast as the Chanel.

So, you get some extra time with it being noticeable, even while still being completely moderate.

The longevity was always a negative feature of the Chanel. Not horribly bad, but 5 to maybe 6 hours of wear time with it. Edition Biana, lasts for 7 hours on my skin.

Not a huge improvement, but still quite significant in comparison. Especially since you get a longer lasting period at its maximum strength versus  the original. A nice boost.

Seasonally, this is a spring and summer wear all the way. The lightness, the citrus, and that vanilla finish are great when it’s warm out.

Edition Blanche is pretty versatile within that time of the year. It’s low key enough for work, can be worn semi-formally, or even casually. It’s more of an attractive or delicious smelling fragrance versus being something sexy for the nightlife.

Overall Impressions of Edition Bianca

Overall, do I like His Aspiration Edition Bianca? Yes, it does a great job a recreating what you get with Edition Blanche, at a fraction of the price.

I’ve spent the past three summers wearing the Chanel and this quite often, so, I am personally kind of tired of it. I’m sure I’ll swing back around to enjoying this formula again, but I’m taking a break.

For others, this is a great one for the spring and summer months, if you want a fresh citrus and woods cologne. The performance is a step above the Chanel, not far and away better, but noticeably longer lasting.

This is an inspired creation that is worth checking out. Very close in smell to the original, better price and performance.

Mirto di Panarea by Acqua di Parma

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I’m still working my way through the 100+ new post extravaganza that is being released over the next month(s) and getting back into the habit today, with a new review. This is another unisex scent offering from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo line, entitled, Mirto di Panarea. It was released in 2008. What does it smell like? How does it perform? Is it worth a purchase?

What does Mirto di Panarea Smell Like?

Notes include: myrtle, basil, lemon, sea breeze, juniper, cedar

Click here to try: Acqua Di Parma Blue Mediterraneo Mirto Di Panarea Eau de Toilette Spray for Men, 5 Ounce

My Full Review

The opening of Mirto di Panarea is a citrus affair. However, it isn’t the juicy citrus of the other entries in the Blue Maditerraneo line, but more of a peel type aroma. This is of course joined by the headliner note, myrtle, and some other florals.

Again, it doesn’t have a straight floral aroma either, it is more herbal and later on, woody. The basil creates an interesting dynamic of an herbal-floral fragrance.

As Mirto dries down, the perfume takes on more of an aquatic sensibility. It sort of straddles the line between aquatic and the herbal-floral kind of scent that it had been to that point. In fact, it becomes more of a citrus peel/aquatic fragrance, the deeper into the wear that you get.

This is a pretty unique dynamic, as from my experience, most of the citrus/aquatic notes in colognes usually fade into the background.

Mirto di Panarea is fresh and has an effervescent sort of energy to it. The aroma is clean and has that spring/summer warm day imagery associated with wearing the fragrance. You can definitely imagine yourself on the Italian coast and surrounded by the natural scents of the landscape.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, Mirto di Panarea is on the softer end of the spectrum. For me, it is mostly a skin scent, and I really didn’t notice that I was wearing it most of the day.

Maybe an opening 30 minutes or so, when it has a good pop. After that, this perfume is soft and doesn’t have very much projection at all.

That could also because, it wasn’t a long lasting scent for me, either. I got about 2-3 hours out of it, reapplied, and got another 2-3 hours out of that round. Not great. It is the same problem that I had with Bergamotto from this brand, just will not stick around.

This would be classified as a casual unisex fragrance. It really isn’t sexy, more soft, airy, and pleasant. Once again, this is a spring/summer wear. It has good versatility, within that context. I guess it could be worn to the office, but it’s more suitable as something to wear outdoors or around during the day, during the warmer months.

Overall Impressions of Mirto di Panarea

Overall would I recommend Mirto di Panarea? Meh, I’m not particularly impressed with it. I think it smells good enough, but the performance wasn’t up to par. Even if it had been, I’d still be indifferent towards it because while unique, the scent doesn’t really grab my attention.

The opening with the lemon, myrtle, and herbal quality to it, is fairly nice and enjoyable. This seems to be a common style with a lot of the Italian summer fragrances. But, at least Mirto isn’t another Neroli Portofino copycat. It does have originality within the warm weather framework.

The performance is just bad, especially at the price point. For retail, you could potentially have two bottles of other scents for the same price, both of which have better performance. Is this Acqua di Parma that special, on those terms? Not for me.

I’ll pass on this fragrance. I do like the aquatic-like aroma, the floral notes aren’t bad, and I’m a fan of citrus scents. However, overall this Acqua di Parma perfume, doesn’t do much for me, beyond being somewhat pleasant. It’s decent smelling, with subpar performance.