Cologne Reviews

Bleu Noir Parfum by Narciso Rodriguez

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Bleu Noir is a series from Narciso Rodriguez that I’ve been meaning to do full reviews on, for a while now. I bought samples of EDP and today’s entry released in 2022, Bleu Noir parfum. I’d already come across this before, but wanted to do a deeper dive into how it smells and if it’s actually worth buying.

What does Bleu Noir Parfum for Him Smell Like?

Notes include: iris, musk, cardamom, cypress, bergamot, mandarin orange, suede, tonka bean, leather, vetiver, cedar

Click here to try: Bleu Noir Parfum

My Full Review

Here’s how Narciso Rodriguez describes it: mysterious and audacious. Iris notes. Sensual musk. Addictive wood.

From the start, you do get the similarities to Dior Homme Intense. Not exactly the same, by any means, but elements are there. However, the opening act here doesn’t touch that of Intense, which is fantastic. This has similarities, but isn’t nearly as enticing as the Dior.

The iris is present early, as is the signature Narciso Rodriguez musk note. I do get light touches of citrus which gives this one a brightness. The cypress and cardamom notes really do alter it from the same path as the Dior, though.

I’m not a massive fan of cypress and paired with cardamom, Bleu Parfum has an aroma similar to AdG Profondo Lights sans the sea notes (those aren’t the only two overlapping notes). A fragrance that I really don’t care for. So, it is like a tug of war between Dior Homme Intense and Profondo Lights and the musk/woods of Bleu EDP.

The fragrance will transition into its next stage, that is much smoother with a falling away of the cardamom especially (also much of the cypress). Here, we get the suede/leather combination, tonka bean to sweeten and add powder to the iris, and a general musky woods base.

Clean with some slightly soapy qualities.

With Bleu Noir EDP, I get a much more defined use of the vetiver and cedar notes than with Parfum. It’s like the original formula sitting underneath the iris and leathery notes. That’s essentially how it dries down.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here isn’t heavy feeling, more moderate, but it does have the ability to project itself quite a ways. Solidly above average and I got a longer time with this level of power before it began to diminish, unlike some other popular iris colognes.

On my skin Bleu Parfum lasts over 8 hours, each time. It can hit the 9-9.5 hour mark too, but that didn’t seem consistent. With a full bottle, I’d say it will get to that upper band more. Either way, the performance is not an issue here.

Parfum is almost a year round scent, outside of the extreme heat of summer or if you’re going to be outside in a more tropical environment. It’s nice enough, when it’s warm out, but I do prefer it in the cooler temperatures that you’d get in autumn or winter.

The good news continues, as this Narciso Rodriguez cologne is also very versatile. You could wear this day or night, casual or more dressed up. It’s clean enough to fit in most places and not too overbearing, as to cause offense.

Overall Impressions of Bleu Noir Parfum

Overall, do I like Bleu Noir Parfum? Yes, but I don’t think that it is better than the fragrances that it gets compared to. The Parfum version is better than the EDP, however.

The opening act is fine, just my least favorite aspect of this fragrance. The reminder of Profondo Lights versus what I get with Dior Homme Intense, just doesn’t hold up head to head.

Though, the middle act and dry down of Bleu Noir Parfum is more enjoyable, more unique, and very good. Plus, you do get plenty of time to spend with it, since the performance is long lasting and not at all weak.

I wouldn’t be opposed to getting this one versus the Dior, since it is usually a bit cheaper, but not always. If that’s not an option, I’m getting the Dior. Nonetheless, Bleu Noir Parfum is a very good entry and well worth checking out.

His Aspiration (Edition Bianca) by Dua Brand

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His Aspiration Edition Bianca is an inspired creation from the Dua Brand based on the formula of Allure Homme Edition Blanche. Seeing as that is one of my favorite Chanel fragrances to wear, in the summertime, I wanted to test if this one was up to par. So, I bought a small sprayer size from Dua months ago in order to post a review. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

What does His Aspiration Edition Bianca Smell Like?

Notes include: sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, vetiver, musk, bergamot, lemon, vanilla, musk, and pink pepper

Click here to try: His Aspiration Edition Bianca

My Full Review

As with Chanel’s Edition Blanche this Dua fragrance opens up with the lemon out in full effect. Surprisingly, I do get a good deal of bergamot coming through ass well, a nice sour bite to match the lemon intensity.

Crisp, fresh, dry, with a little bit of spice. My batch doesn’t seem to have too much pink pepper involved, even in the early stages. That’s probably a good thing.

Underneath that citrus, tonka bean. The vanilla will come on somewhat, but I get a lot of tonka bean, much like in the Allure Homme Sport series.

At this point, it’s very close to what you’re getting with the Chanel. Chanel Edition Blanche have seemed to have more or less vanilla, depending on which batch I’ve received. Sometimes, it’s much creamier and others dry.

For this Dua, it tracks towards the latter. Some of that bergamot burns off, the lemon remains strong, and a blend of vetiver and sandalwood is very noticeable.

Lemon, sandalwood, and vetiver are the stars for the rest of the wear. Everything else, is jockeying for position underneath those three. Mostly, this consists of the vanilla/tonka bean pairing, cedar, and some amber.

It does have a more balanced approach with less lemon dominance, more creaminess, and a crisp baked goods aroma with the way the woods interacts with the lemon and vanilla.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage and projection ability is slightly better versus Edition Blanche. His Aspiration, will maybe give you an extra foot or two at its peak, in terms of radius. 4-7 feet or thereabouts. It also won’t diminish nearly as fast as the Chanel.

So, you get some extra time with it being noticeable, even while still being completely moderate.

The longevity was always a negative feature of the Chanel. Not horribly bad, but 5 to maybe 6 hours of wear time with it. Edition Biana, lasts for 7 hours on my skin.

Not a huge improvement, but still quite significant in comparison. Especially since you get a longer lasting period at its maximum strength versus  the original. A nice boost.

Seasonally, this is a spring and summer wear all the way. The lightness, the citrus, and that vanilla finish are great when it’s warm out.

Edition Blanche is pretty versatile within that time of the year. It’s low key enough for work, can be worn semi-formally, or even casually. It’s more of an attractive or delicious smelling fragrance versus being something sexy for the nightlife.

Overall Impressions of Edition Bianca

Overall, do I like His Aspiration Edition Bianca? Yes, it does a great job a recreating what you get with Edition Blanche, at a fraction of the price.

I’ve spent the past three summers wearing the Chanel and this quite often, so, I am personally kind of tired of it. I’m sure I’ll swing back around to enjoying this formula again, but I’m taking a break.

For others, this is a great one for the spring and summer months, if you want a fresh citrus and woods cologne. The performance is a step above the Chanel, not far and away better, but noticeably longer lasting.

This is an inspired creation that is worth checking out. Very close in smell to the original, better price and performance.

Mirto di Panarea by Acqua di Parma

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I’m still working my way through the 100+ new post extravaganza that is being released over the next month(s) and getting back into the habit today, with a new review. This is another unisex scent offering from Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo line, entitled, Mirto di Panarea. It was released in 2008. What does it smell like? How does it perform? Is it worth a purchase?

What does Mirto di Panarea Smell Like?

Notes include: myrtle, basil, lemon, sea breeze, juniper, cedar

Click here to try: Acqua Di Parma Blue Mediterraneo Mirto Di Panarea Eau de Toilette Spray for Men, 5 Ounce

My Full Review

The opening of Mirto di Panarea is a citrus affair. However, it isn’t the juicy citrus of the other entries in the Blue Maditerraneo line, but more of a peel type aroma. This is of course joined by the headliner note, myrtle, and some other florals.

Again, it doesn’t have a straight floral aroma either, it is more herbal and later on, woody. The basil creates an interesting dynamic of an herbal-floral fragrance.

As Mirto dries down, the perfume takes on more of an aquatic sensibility. It sort of straddles the line between aquatic and the herbal-floral kind of scent that it had been to that point. In fact, it becomes more of a citrus peel/aquatic fragrance, the deeper into the wear that you get.

This is a pretty unique dynamic, as from my experience, most of the citrus/aquatic notes in colognes usually fade into the background.

Mirto di Panarea is fresh and has an effervescent sort of energy to it. The aroma is clean and has that spring/summer warm day imagery associated with wearing the fragrance. You can definitely imagine yourself on the Italian coast and surrounded by the natural scents of the landscape.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, Mirto di Panarea is on the softer end of the spectrum. For me, it is mostly a skin scent, and I really didn’t notice that I was wearing it most of the day.

Maybe an opening 30 minutes or so, when it has a good pop. After that, this perfume is soft and doesn’t have very much projection at all.

That could also because, it wasn’t a long lasting scent for me, either. I got about 2-3 hours out of it, reapplied, and got another 2-3 hours out of that round. Not great. It is the same problem that I had with Bergamotto from this brand, just will not stick around.

This would be classified as a casual unisex fragrance. It really isn’t sexy, more soft, airy, and pleasant. Once again, this is a spring/summer wear. It has good versatility, within that context. I guess it could be worn to the office, but it’s more suitable as something to wear outdoors or around during the day, during the warmer months.

Overall Impressions of Mirto di Panarea

Overall would I recommend Mirto di Panarea? Meh, I’m not particularly impressed with it. I think it smells good enough, but the performance wasn’t up to par. Even if it had been, I’d still be indifferent towards it because while unique, the scent doesn’t really grab my attention.

The opening with the lemon, myrtle, and herbal quality to it, is fairly nice and enjoyable. This seems to be a common style with a lot of the Italian summer fragrances. But, at least Mirto isn’t another Neroli Portofino copycat. It does have originality within the warm weather framework.

The performance is just bad, especially at the price point. For retail, you could potentially have two bottles of other scents for the same price, both of which have better performance. Is this Acqua di Parma that special, on those terms? Not for me.

I’ll pass on this fragrance. I do like the aquatic-like aroma, the floral notes aren’t bad, and I’m a fan of citrus scents. However, overall this Acqua di Parma perfume, doesn’t do much for me, beyond being somewhat pleasant. It’s decent smelling, with subpar performance.

Greatness by The Dua Brand

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Versace Eros has been a top seller in the fragrance space, since its release back in 2012. Being that it is such a popular scent, it is only natural that The Dua Brand came out with their own ‘inspired creation’ of the 2012 original Eros EDT formula. I purchased a bottle, a few months ago to test out. Does it actually perform?

What does Greatness by Dua Smell Like?

Notes include: mint, vanilla, tonka bean, green apple, lemon, ambroxan, geranium, cedar, vetiver, oakmoss

Click here to try: Greatness

My Full Review

Well, one of the things about Dua’s fragrances is that they can take time to macerate. Basically, the aroma will change over a period of time. As such, what you get initially, isn’t going to be the same after a few months as it improves into the aroma that you’re looking for.

Now, most of the time this is minimal, in my experience with other fragrances from this brand. Sure, there’s some change, just nothing too major.

With my bottle of Greatness, it was a pretty pronounced change over the two months since I’ve purchased it. Which, makes my glad that I held off my review to this point.

The initial trial run, had way too much off the ambroxan coming out for this to be enjoyable. Now, it has settled.

Anyway, this Dua fragrance is inspired by the 2012 formulation of Eros EDT, a cologne that I am quite familiar with, as I had bottles of it during this era. My main complaint with the modern Eros, is how much the lemon overwhelms and throws off its former balance.

Greatness does correct this. In fact, the lemon is pretty subdued in the mix.

Early on this one is fresh and cold. Mint dominates the composition (with a touch of geranium), which is closer to how the 2012 era was like. Underneath that, is the crispness of the green apple note, the citrus, and a vanilla.

Is it the same as I remember? No, but it’s close. Maybe it’s a function of me misremembering the scent, but I did have a ton of time wearing the original Eros.

What’s different? The apple and lemon are too quiet. The lemon, I’m fine with, but the green apple doesn’t have the same sweetness. Secondly, the vanilla and mint felt richer and creamier as a pairing in the original.

Don’t get me wrong, much better than what I’ve gotten from the modern Versace release, just a bit off.

After that, the mint will still be heavy in the blend, but the vanilla and tonka bean really ramp up.

That’s another aspect of Greatness, it doesn’t have all that much development. More vanilla, tonka bean, ambroxan. Less mint and the fruits.  It’s more of a minty tonka bean and ambroxan for a lot of the wear. Then, some light woods.

So, a fairly close rendition of 2012 Eros, just without the same depth. I like it, though.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This one does match that initial intensity and projection of Eros. However, I think that it shifts into more of a moderate scent quicker than does the Versace. On my skin, anyway. The performance is good though.

The longevity is somewhere in the 8-8.5 hour territory. Again, didn’t hit the same level as old Eros, which basically hit 10+ hours every time. It does match the modern batches, which are still quite good.

No change when to wear. Skews younger, colder weather is better, more in the nightlife mold…but can be worn daytime.

Overall Impressions of Greatness

Overall, do I like Greatness? Yes, it’s a very good rendition of older bottles of Eros, just not exact. Once it had time to sit on my shelf for a while, the experience was much better. Still a notch below the old Versace batches, but a better scent than the newer one’s.

Plus, it’s a better price. Everything else about it, is basically in line with the Eros that is available nowadays. The sillage initially, is about the same, but slightly less staying power with the projection.

I do like the minty freshness of this blend. Wish it were a tad creamier with the vanilla and a stronger apple note, but it’s still nice. I don’t mind the lack of development, as I loved the opening act of the old Eros the most anyway.

This is worth trying, if you’re interested in Eros EDT or just want to replace your bottle at a lower price. I’ll wear this more, as it gets colder in the autumn.

Angel Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler

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Another sample cologne that I picked up recently was Angel Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler. Now, I was already somewhat familiar with this fragrance, but seeing as I hadn’t smelled it in a long time, I didn’t want to write up a review post for it. So, I grabbed a sample with my last order and wanted to put together my full thoughts on this Mugler scent from the A*Men line.

What does A*Men Pure Malt Smell Like?

angel men pure malt review

Notes include: bergamot, patchouli, vanilla, cedar, amber, fruits, coffee bean, musk

Click here to try: Angel Men Pure Malt by Thierry Mugler Eau De Toilette Spray (Limited Edition) for Men, 3.40 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Pure Malt really sets the stage. Man, is this a rich and enticing fragrance. It kind of reminds me of B*Men also by Thierry Mugler but way better with less spice and an enjoyable fruitiness.

I’ve been really digging scents that feature a boozy type of aroma, and Pure Malt is beautiful, like a fine whiskey. There is a warm sweetness in the same vein as Pure Havane but with alcohol in lieu of tobacco.

The start features the blend of fruits, vanilla, whiskey, and a bit of the patchouli. The patchouli comes through to give it a warm bakery feeling, like it does in so many women’s perfumes. However here, it just helps to shape the alcoholic sweetness.

As the scent wears on, I feel that it becomes even better than the opening act. The berry-like fruits begin to fully emerge and give the cologne a distinctive feel. Nonetheless, they are only playing a supporting role at this stage.

However, Pure Malt never relinquishes its very masculine energy or fall into a trap of being too ambiguous. I found myself constantly trying to get a whiff of this lovely gourmand scent throughout the night that I was wearing it. It was just enjoyable and pleasant to wear.

Finally, the latter stages are smooth, creamy, warm, woody, with its underlying sweetness still kicking around. Vanilla, tonka bean, and vague hints of coffee are swirling around a base of cedar and malt.

The coffee bean adds a nice touch, as you can only pick up its familiar scent, at certain times during the wear. Pure Malt is just unique and plain delicious to the senses.

Sillage, Longevity, Versatility

Projection wise, Pure Malt is fairly strong, but not crazy so. You’ll notice that it’s there and so will other people around you but it shouldn’t choke anyone out unless you went overboard.

I actually got good longevity with this, it’s hard to remember the details of when I applied and when it faded last night but I’d say 6-8 hours or thereabouts. Update: After wearing this for a while, it seems like 7 hours is pretty standard, for Pure Malt’s longevity. Not a monster performer, but still quite enough.

Pure Malt is yet another cold weather gem. Seriously, the one thing that might hold me back from buying a larger bottle is that I already have so many ‘go-to’s’ during the cooler months of the year…it’s starting to get ridiculous. But yeah, during the summer months, this wouldn’t be a wise choice.

This is quite a masculine cologne and while I like it, it seems that women had mixed feelings about it while I had it on. Most liked it, but weren’t in love with it. It’s funny because I really liked wearing this stuff, so this is one, I probably won’t account for others’ opinions.

Another update: the more that I’ve worn this, the more the positive reactions, outweigh the negative or indifferent. There are times, where this gets an insane number of complements, while out on the town.

I don’t know that I’d wear this to an office. It’s more of a casual, date night, or evening out kind of scent. It does contain those strong alcoholic notes, which you might not want to smell like whiskey, while at work. Your call, though.

Overall Impression of Pure Malt

Overall, would I rate Pure Malt a buy? Yes, I think it’s great but I don’t think it’d be for everyone. It can be quite pricey, it is limited by the climate you live in, not for those who don’t like the smell of malt (obviously), etc.

On the other hand, this is a very well done entry from Thierry Mugler and is at least worth a try for a lot of guys.

The whole thing is warm, sweet, and gourmand. Angel Men Pure Malt is an experience all its own and probably one of the best colognes on the market. It’s application is niche, but it does things so utterly well, that I want to spray it on more and more.

There’s just so much going on here, and when it came out, there really wasn’t too much out there that was quite like it.

I doubt it’ll be what you’re looking for in a daily wear, but as a secondary option you break out on occasion, this is a definite yes.

2023 Update: Pure Malt has been discontinued for a while now. So, if you’re looking for this original formulation, you’re going to have to find an old bottle online or try finding a close approximation. The Dua Brand has one available, that I haven’t tried.