Cologne Reviews

Godolphin by Parfums De Marly

by

Yes, I am indeed still working my way through the samples of all of the Parfums de Marly colognes that I received a month plus ago. If you want to check out the rest, they are along with every other review I’ve ever done, on the fragrance reviews page.

We have now made it to Godolphin from this line and as always I want to explore and break down what makes this scent tick. How it performs, smells, what’s inside, etc. Godolphin was released in 2010.

What does Godolphin Smell Like?

Notes include: saffron, leather, iris, rose, jasmine, amber, musk, cedar, thyme, mate, and vetiver

Click here to try: Parfums de Marly Godolphin Men’s Edp Spray, 4.2 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

Right off the bat, I’m going to tell you that I enjoy this fragrance. In fact, I’ve already placed it on my top five fragrance from Parfums de Marly. Just so there’s no confusion about where my thoughts are going to fall on this particular cologne.

The opening is a leather and musk mix. Like the primal animal spice of the musk is sitting on top of the leather note and it also seems to feature some sort of metallic like aroma, of which I’m not quite sure what it is.

Perhaps, that is just the way the saffron is mixing with the other herbal notes and how it is all pieced together.

In a lot of ways, it is like Tuscan Leather and Ombre Leather by Tom Ford. It’s not an exact replica of either, but if you’re familiar with those, this is along those lines.

After the initial 10-15 minutes or so, the musk dies down quite a bit, and I get some sweeter fruit undertones and the emergence of the floral notes. Rose, in particular.

It has that bit of sweetness but it is combined with a dark and intriguing warmth one would expect from a masculine type of fragrance.

The saffron is the other main player here with the dominant leather. I don’t want to make Godolphin seem like an overly masculine scent because it does have those floral notes which give the cologne a great depth and moderation.

This is what I get for pretty much the rest of the way, a sweet leather blend, with a rich rose note, and a somewhat metallic aroma. I really love the saffron note in here. It’s such an underutilized ingredient outside of these more niche designers, but it’s fantastic. 

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, it is fairly strong for the first couple of hours, but then becomes much more of a moderate scent. The sillage isn’t as powerful versus some of the other options by PdM, but it still has a nice strength to it. 

Godolphin also has very good longevity, easily eclipsing the 8+ hour range, and comfortably hitting double digit hours in most situations. It’s not the elite of the elite, but it does give you at least a full standard workday.

Update: Coming back to this fragrance, it seems to hit the 11 hour mark consistently. Occasionally, I’ll still pick it up after that, but 11 is about what I expect to get each time. 

 

I would say that it is a very versatile scent, at least within its seasonal range. Yes, this is a colder weather fragrance, but I’ve worn it in indoor environments here in the summertime.

It can be worn casually, but I think that it fits best when dressed up. Not necessarily formal wear, but for work or for a night on the town. It has a sense of intrigue and sexiness that will draw complements.

Overall Impressions of Godolphin

Overall, do I like Godolphin? Obviously. I think it is a great leather based scent with a complex and amazingly put together profile. Like other Parfums de Marly colognes, it is pricy, but if you’re in the market for this scent…that shouldn’t be too much of a hurdle.

It smells great, performs well, and has a versatile ability to be worn in many situations. It has its similarities to the Tom Ford leather fragrances, while still maintaining its own unique character and providing you another option. 

The leather and saffron combination is very good. It’s probably never going to be a super mass appealing cologne, but Godolphin is easily one that can become a signature scent for the right man. 

Legend EDP by Mont Blanc

by

Montblanc’s Legend line of fragrances have been monstrously successful over the past decade-plus and it still keeps cranking out flanker colognes to the original EDT. The latest, is Legend Eau de Parfum, which is going to stick much closer to the original release than something like Night. I received a sample of this with an order a few months back, so, I’ve of course tested it out. How does it smell? When should it be worn? Is it really worth a try?

What does Legend Eau de Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: violet leaf, leather, jasmine, moss, bergamot, woods

Click here to try: MONTBLANC Legend eau de parfum 3.3 fl oz, 3.3 fl. oz.

My Full Review

Violet leaf is the focus of Legend EDP from the get go. It is joined by a nice amount of citrus from the bergamot, which will dissipate pretty quickly, and leather. The leather and violet leaf are going to be the main distinctions from Legend EDT.

It’s got a fresh opening act, with a greenish aroma coming from the base, which is mostly from the ‘oakmoss’ aroma they use nowadays. Clean, but I notice that the leather never really comes through all that heavy in the mix. I mean, it’s there but doesn’t take over on my skin.

After a little while, the bergamot will fade out. I know there is jasmine in this blend, but I don’t pick it out as a separate aroma. What continues is violet leaf, woods, moss, and leather. That’s basically what I get for the rest of the way.

It feels flat and like there’s nothing there to give it much of a personality of its own. A mossy violet leaf with leather, sitting on top of wood. It doesn’t smell bad, by any means, just there isn’t all that much going on here.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, I don’t find the EDP version of Legend to be much better, if at all than the original. It’s not a powerful projecting scent and is actually quite moderate. I don’t think that it really hits a higher peak with its strength versus the EDT, but may be steadier throughout the wear.

The longevity is better. It’s still not a beast, but I’ve gotten 6.5-8 hours of wear from Legend EDP during testing. Amazing? No, but better than the original, in terms of how long it will stick around on my skin.

The strength of the EDP is its versatility. Like the original, it’s a jack of all trades fragrance, which can be worn by all ages without issue.

Beyond that, it can venture into a variety of climates, pretty easily. I’d still stay away from the heat in the summer, but it’s fine in other conditions.

This can be worn casually, to work, to school, out on the town for an evening. Not going to be a nightclub kind of cologne, but it is a very versatile scent.

Overall Impressions of Legend EDP

Overall, do I like Legend eau de parfum? Not particularly. I don’t hate the way it smells or anything, it’s just kind of boring. I still like the original more so than this one, and I’m not even a person who enjoyed that a lot. Montblanc can be pretty hit or miss, in my opinion.

It feels flat and uninspired. I like aspects of it, but Legend EDP doesn’t stand out in anyway. The violet leaf note, doesn’t add anything and it’s probably the worst aspect of the scent…despite it being a focus.

The leather is a nice touch, but it isn’t strong enough to give EDP a new direction. It’s like a violet leaf heavy version of the original, with some more greenish aromas, and it doesn’t manage to surpass it.

Should you buy it? Maybe if you’re a big fan of the original and want a longer lasting option. You might be able to get it for cheap, at some point, but I wouldn’t spend money on a full bottle.

Pure XS Night by Paco Rabanne

by

Pure XS Night is the flanker fragrance to the original Pure XS, which I don’t think ever achieved all that much popularity, but was a very nice fragrance. I was interested in trying this one out, since I completely missed Night when it was released back in 2019. I bought a sample of this, as part of a large lot of other men’s colognes. How does Pure XS Night Smell? When should it be worn? Is it worth a try?

What does Pure XS Night Smell Like?

Notes include: ginseng, caramel, ginger, cacao, vanilla, cinnamon, myrrh 

My Full Review

Before we get into my review, let’s see how Paco Rabanne describes it: To have it all. In excess. Devastatingly fascinating. Girls fall under his spell. Now’s the time to lighten up, play with fire. Lose control. An untamed Oriental, hot and fresh. Excess in its purest state.

Bam! That ginseng and ginger blend up top really hits hard. It actually reminds me of the ginger ale drink Canada Dry Bold, with that blast of ginger. Along with those two notes, there is also a bit of cinnamon floating around, so expect a warm/spicy opening act.

After 10 minutes of so Pure XS Night will start its turn toward becoming a sweeter cologne. Caramel and vanilla really start to come through, with a bit of raw cacao. I reminded of the caramel note in The Most Wanted, but I think that Azzaro fragrance is better than this.

For a while it will morph from a spicy/sweet blend, into something that is more of a sweet fragrance, as a whole. Freshness sits underneath that sweetness and it has a balsamic finish from the myrrh in the base.

I get mostly caramel and myrrh in the final phase, but the vanilla does blend with its counterpart a lot. 

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here is loud, but not overwhelming. Well, maybe the first few minutes can be a bit much, but once the spice settles Night is a strong fragrance and not monstrous. You definitely gets your money’s worth, though.

The longevity is also very good. Somewhere in the 8-9 hour range, on the skin. Plus, a super long time on fabric, well into the double digit hour range.

The performance is much better than I got with the original Pure XS, which had a great smell, but pretty middling longevity and sillage.

Seasonally, autumn and winter only. This isn’t a warm weather fragrance. Beyond that, you won’t get much use out of this, aside from the nightlife. Maybe on a cold day, you could wear this casually, but it’s not one for business attire.

The sweetness and synthetic kind of vibe, make Pure XS Night one for the younger crowd. Teenagers through twenties should love this stuff. It’s attractive, bold, and a party/night club beast. Not the most versatile cologne, but it has its place.

Overall Impressions of Pure XS Night

Overall, do I like Pure XS Night? I do. As far as deciding between it or the original Pure XS, I think that I still prefer how that one smells versus this newer version. However, this has much better performance and still is very attractive and worthwhile.

The opening ginger, ginseng, and cinnamon is indeed quite bold and may be off-putting for some people, but once it settles; the aroma develops very well.

I like the caramel/vanilla/cacao sweetness and the myrrh is always a nice touch and a bit part of the DNA of Pure XS. The biggest weakness (if you want to call it that), is the rather narrow use case for Night. 

You’re going to have to be in the market for a nightlife fragrance, something along the lines of Ultra Male or 212 VIP. But, within that space this is a cologne that is one to try out. 

Allure Homme Edition Blanche EDT by Chanel

by

Allure Homme Edition Blanche EDT was released by Chanel back in 2008. I got a sample of this version a few months ago, along with the newer EDP that the brand still sells. My sample is marked concentree, so, I’m not sure if it was a further release beyond the regular EDT. Either way, this one is no longer produced, but I figured I’d do a review for posterity’s sake. 

What does Edition Blanche EDT Eau Concentree Smell Like?

Notes include: lemon, pink pepper, vanilla, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean, amber

My Full Review

Blanche EDT opens with a sharp and dry use of lemon, vetiver, sandalwood, and pink pepper. You’re absolutely going to have to be a citrus lover with this one, to really appreciate it, as it is very sharp upon opening.

The lemon is going to dominate through much of the wear. Early on, it feels especially intense, but once the vanilla and tonka bean kicks in…it will settle.

The pink pepper is the first note to fall off and that gives the sandalwood and vetiver a bit more room in the base. The vanilla creaminess will start to envelope the lemon note, along with the tonka bean. 

This Chanel fragrance is actually pretty darn linear and there isn’t much development beyond that. Just more of the lemon/vanilla aroma and less of the other notes within the composition.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here is moderate in the early stages and then pretty light thereafter. However, it does project itself very nicely early on and it’ll hang around well after spraying. Just don’t expect a complete beast for the duration.

Longevity wise, I get 6-ish hours on my skin with this Eau Concentree. Allure Edition Blanche spends much of that time, as a skin scent, but it does indeed hang around. Still noticeable, just not amazing with its performance.

 

Seasonally, Allure Edition Blanche is a spring and summer fragrance, all the way. Mainly, for the summertime. I like to wear it casually or even for a night out. Though, I’d say that it’s probably at its best in the daytime. 

Overall Impressions of Edition Blanche Eau Concentree

Do I like this fragrance? Absolutely. I know they don’t produce this version anymore, and the EDP is close enough, but I really do love this scent. Uden by Xerjoff is an available replacement (and in many ways even better).

That dry lemon and pink pepper opening act could scare some away from this. However, that creamy vanilla/sweet/dessert like finish is so damn good on a warm summer’s day. I have been slowly depleting my sample vial, since I know it’s such a rare commodity. 

The performance of Allure Edition Blanche was never its strong suit. The sillage is moderate, at its peak, but detectable. For much of the wear, it will be a softer experience. Though, it does stick around on the skin for a nice amount of time. 

I wish Chanel could’ve beefed up the performance a bit more.

If you want a bottle of this one in particular, you’ll have to shell out over $300 in all likelihood off a site like eBay. Or you can just go with the EDP, which is also near this same level. Uden is usually $200, but well worth it. 

Spicebomb Night Vision EDT by Viktor & Rolf

by

Spicebomb Night Vision is one of the latest set of flanker fragrances from Viktor & Rolf for the very popular Spicebomb lineup. I’ve been testing out both of the Night Vision colognes for the past few weeks to see how each performs. What does the EDT smell like? When should it be worn? Is it even worth a try?

What does Spicebomb Night Vision Smell Like?

Notes include:  grapefruit, sage, black spice complex, geranium, roasted almond accord, tonka bean

Click here to try: Spicebomb Night Vision Eau De Toilette Spray By Viktor & Rolf Cologne for Men 1.7 oz

My Full Review

The opening act of Night Vision has been fairly strange in terms of what I pick up from it. Sometimes, it feels much sweeter and closer to the dry down stage of the EDP version. Then, it seems quite fresh and green during other wears.

The opening act is usually highlighted by the grapefruit, sage, geranium, and black spice complex. The spice complex is black pepper and it seems like a bit of chili pepper, as well. Though, sometimes it also smells like there is cumin in here…as I’ve said, it’s weird.

If I happen to get a sweeter opening, it’s usually the tonka bean popping up early to match with the grapefruit note. The sage freshness is always present.

Other reviews that I’ve seen on this scent, don’t seem to pick up as much geranium and sage as I do on my skin. But, that’s a lot of what I’ve come to expect from Night Vision.

The dry down is a tonka bean and roasted almond creaminess, with the aromatic freshness of the aforementioned notes. It’s a bit green and not as cold or woody as the EDP version. Really, this one isn’t too complex.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage with Spicebomb Night Vision is light to moderate. The first hour is pretty decent with how it projects itself. Then, it does go into skin scent mode pretty quickly on my skin and stay there for the rest of the time. Not really great.

The longevity is also lackluster, with this Viktor & Rolf cologne lasting just over 5 hours, in my experience. Maybe, it’s gotten close to six for one wear. The performance is probably the biggest negative for me, with this fragrance…it’s pretty bad for a designer cologne.

When it can be worn, is one of the strengths, however. Seasonally, Night Vision is fine, outside the height of the summer, but could work well in autumn through the springtime.

Spicebomb Night Vision is more of a casual or nightlife wear versus being anything formal. It also skews younger, think 20s through early 30s, and not a teenager’s cologne. The scent itself is pretty mass appealing and should be able to draw some complements. It’s not groundbreaking stuff, but I think plenty of people would enjoy Night Vision.

Overall Impressions of Night Vision EDT

Overall, do I like Night Vision? When I first tried out this Spicebomb scent, it wasn’t that appealing to me. However, it did grow on me somewhat. Even with a bit more appreciation in its favor, Spicebomb Night Vision isn’t all that great.

It smells fine enough and there are periods, that I quite enjoy. As a whole, there’s nothing that really stands out about it. The fragrance’s performance isn’t good, the smells is nice but not super attractive, and it doesn’t supplant any of the other Spicebomb colognes.

For the retail price, I cannot recommend it. If you can find it on sale, then maybe it’s worth a go. Still, I like the Eau de Parfum better. It actually has decent performance and a better aroma, as a whole.

It certainly has some positive aspects to its presentation, but overall this is pretty forgettable. At the price point, you could do better.