Cologne Reviews

Le Male Elixir Absolu by JPG

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Elixir Absolu is the latest release in 2025 of the long-running Le Male series by Gaultier. It is also a flanker to the massively successful flanker, Le Male Elixir.

I bought a bottle of Le Male Elixir Absolu to test it out and do a full review of the results. How does it smell? How long does it last? Is it even worth a try?

Elixir Absolu Overview

Notes include: lavender, tonka bean, plum

Click here to try: Le Male Elixir Absolu

My Full Review

Here’s how Gaultier describes this fragrance: Radiating a golden aura, everything in his wake is turned into gold. This new Male — and the most precious of all — keeps the signature fragrance notes of the iconic Le Male Elixir but is intensely richer. Fruity notes of spicy, sensual plum develop into lavender and tonka bean, taking sensuality to the extreme. But be warned! This Le Male will soon become an obsession.

Elixir Absolu opens up different yet familiar to the original JPG Le Male Elixir. It doesn’t have the cooling the mint note. Instead you get a good deal of that lavender, with some warmer spice, and a new addition of a sweet plum.

To me, the plum actually isn’t too heavy in the start. It’s much less of a tart note and sweeter than I thought it would be.

I’m not sure what the spice here is. It kind of smells like cumin mixed up with a bit of cinnamon. The plum can have a bit of a spicy sort of aroma too, but I personally get cumin.

Lavender is the focus with Le Male Elixir Absolu. It’s interesting that I get the sensation of iris lurking around in this mix. I haven’t seen anything from Gaultier about this.

So, it could just be an effect of the lavender, tonka bean, and the velvety touches of the plum note blending together to cause that.

Anyway, the opening still feels messy to me, even after about 2 weeks of wearing this one around. It doesn’t have that honeyed heaviness, while you can still pick up the scent of the first Elixir underneath our main attractions.

Still, it’s an okay start, just not really something that I’ve liked.

Once that warmer and slight spiciness moves away, Le Male Elixir Absolu really comes into its own. The plum becomes more apparent on my skin. It sits gently on top of the lavender note, never being too heavy, while still being captivating.

This doesn’t feel too complicated. It’s middle act is the lavender and plum with that iris sort of smell coming through.

Then, the dry down will have more tonka bean and the background of the original still coming through. Mostly, the vanilla seems to be here. So, it’s a fruity sweet lavender floral fragrance with a mix of powdery and creamy highlights.

Still similar to the original, but I think the differences are very noticeable and are placed front and center here.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This one isn’t as heavy feeling or cloying as the first Elixir can be. However, its ability to project is unchanged. Still a beast that doesn’t require a massive amount of spraying in order to be potent.

I always catch whiffs of its scent throughout the day until it has finally faded or I’ve washed it all off.

The longevity here is also still the same as with the first Elixir. I still get 9-10.5 hours of wear with this version of the juice.

The performance doesn’t have any issues, as with the rest of the Le Male lineup. Powerful and long-lasting for a designer cologne.

Seasonally, this is still mostly an autumn and wintertime wear. However, I think it’s still nice in the milder temperatures. So, it can venture into springtime more so than its predecessor.

Still, this isn’t one that you’re going to be reaching for during the summer months, unless it’s a cooler evening.

Elixir Abolu is a fragrance that is still going to skew younger. It’s more of a casual or nightlife sort of cologne versus something that you’d wear to the office.

Not completely juvenile, especially once it gets past the opening, but is still going to worn mostly by men in their 20s and younger.

Overall Impressions of Le Male Elixir Absolu

Overall, do I like Elixir Absolu? Yes, I think it is a better fragrance than the original Elixir and one that I have been enjoying wearing thus far.

The opening is my least favorite part of the whole thing. However, once it settles down and I get this sweet mix of light plum, lavender, and the tonka bean I really do like wearing this fragrance.

I wasn’t expecting that dry down, after a slow start, but this JPG fragrance surprised me. The performance is still the same as the first Elixir release. As such, choosing between the two really just comes down to which smell you prefer.

I think this is a better fragrance. The original has a heavy use of honey which feels much more cloying than anything that is presented here. The plum also isn’t insanely strong or even tart, it parks itself nicely in the mix and gives it a real boost.

If you already have the first Le Male Elixir, you probably don’t need both. I would still test this one out, to see if you like the changes. That being said, you shouldn’t rush out and buy this.

It’s distinct enough, but obviously still covers a lot of the same bases.

If you don’t have either and want a Le Male Elixir scent, I would pick up Elixir Absolu. I might end up finishing this bottle before my bottle of Elixir that I purchased back when it came out.

By the Fireplace by Maison Margiela

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By the Fireplace has become a crowd favorite and best seller from the Replica line of perfumes from Maison Margiela. It was released back in 2015 and has grown in reputation since then.

I bought a full bottle last winter and am only now remembering that I needed to write a review. Here it is. How does this Replica fragrance smell? How long does it last? Is it worth a try?

What does By the Fireplace Smell Like?

Notes include: pink pepper, orange blossom, cloves, guaiac wood, chestnut, juniper, Peru balsam, vanilla, cashmeran

Click here to try: By the Fireplace

My Full Review

By the Fireplace begins with a mix of spiciness and sweetness right from the start. The spice is more prominent early on, with the pink pepper and clove really coming through strong.

Though, that will definitely moderate as it moves forward. The other obvious accord here is from the smokiness of this perfume.

The sweet roasted chestnut, guaiac wood and juniper round things out in the opening act. The Margiela fragrance lives up to its name and theme.

It’s a warm, sweet, and dry fragrance on the whole. With it’s smokiness and spiciness playing a bigger role early on. I also get some orange blossom, on my skin. However, it tends to get overshadowed by the more dominant and attention grabbing notes.

The spice will begin to fade and the warmth and sweetness will move more into focus. The chestnut is still the main attraction, but we get further woodiness, balsamic aspects, and the vanilla also steps forward.

That’s what it’s going to be basically the rest of the way a sweetish and still slightly smoky mix of chestnut and vanilla with dry woods and an amber sort of undertone to it all.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this isn’t a massive projector but it is a heavier feeling fragrance. The smokiness really envelops you and it has a pretty far reach for the first hour or so.

But, it will quickly settle into something moderate. The Margiela perfume is above average in this aspect, but only slightly so. Nothing disappointing, it’s just not a monster with it’s power.

The longevity here is pretty good, nothing spectacular. I get 7-8 or up to 9 hours of wear from By the Fireplace. Honestly, its enough for most purposes, it’s just not one that is going to approach that 10+ hour range of wear.

Seasonally, this Maison Margiela scent is built for autumn and winter. Cold days and nights, as the name would suggest. Outside of that, you can safely skip this one.

It’s also very unisex, so, while it may not appeal to everyone, anyone could wear By the Fireplace without issue in that regard.

This is more of a casual scent or one that you can wear out on a cold evening. Fireplace isn’t a formal type of fragrance, maybe skip wearing it too work. Though, I could see it working for some people.

For the most part, By the Fireplace isn’t going to be the majority of people’s main scent, more like something for the rotation that you break out for stretches of time.

Overall Impressions of By the Fireplace

Overall, do I like this scent? Yep, it’s another fragrance that I love for the wintertime. In fact, I was wearing my sprays from my bottle for many evenings this past winter. By the Fireplace is such an enjoyable fragrance for me.

It may be somewhat limited in its use case, so, it isn’t going to be a fragrance that everybody needs a bottle of. Not only due to seasonality, but the smokiness isn’t a feature which will have total appeal.

Though, the chestnut and vanilla really do a fine job at giving this one a great sweetness to wear around on colder days and nights.

That smoke and spice can be somewhat intense, but the fragrance that remains is very pleasant and easy to wear.

It’s not something that I always reach for, but By the Fireplace is a nice perfume with an interesting theme, that’s worth checking out.

Bad Boy Extreme by Carolina Herrera

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Bad Boy Extreme was released as a flanker back in 2022. I wasn’t too interested in the fragrance at the time, but I recently received a sample of this Carolina Herrera scent, as a part of another order. So, I’ve tested out.

How does this Bad Boy cologne smell? How long does it last? Is it worth a buy?

Bad Boy Extreme Overview

Notes include: cacao, bergamot, ginger, patchouli, tonka bean, clary sage, plum, vetiver, incense, davana, labdanum

Click here to try: Bad Boy Extreme

My Full Review

Bad Boy Extreme starts off with sweet and warm spicy mix, but with more aromatic touches at the start. The ginger is particularly present on my skin, as is the cacao early.

Along with these two, the sage is the next most noticeable and some tart aroma coming from a light plum note. The sage and ginger are pretty central to how this cologne begins.

Yet, it still has that spice and ambery warmth which keeps it masculine and more interesting to my nose. Once that first wave begins to fade, the patchouli and vetiver create an earthier undertone.

Also, here’s where I start to notice more of the incense smokiness. Still, that’s a fairly subtle touch for me.

It’s at its most aromatic, in the early stages. Later, it will still be spicy and sweet, but the profile will have changed from that. Cacao with patchouli and some vetiver, a general spice, and some warm amber sort of aroma.

The ginger and plum evaporates for me.  The sweetness is more about the cacao and tonka bean, much like in the original Bad Boy. The labdanum holds it all together and those three notes are basically what it smells like for the rest of the way.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This is a fairly heavy scent but, it’s got enough freshness not to get bogged down. If I compare it to something like Le Male Elixir, this one doesn’t have the same level of sillage and projection.

Though, it is a strong fragrance that you will for sure notice. It moderates after an hour or two, but I wouldn’t worry about the power here.

Extreme is the best Bad Boy fragrance in terms of performance, that I’ve come across thus far. On my skin, it will last for more than 10 hours. Maybe it’ll hit 11 or so before evaporating completely.

Seasonally, this is an autumn and winter wear. I wouldn’t venture too far into springtime with this scent. Though, since it is more of a nighttime wear, it shouldn’t be too much of a problem so long as the heat and humidity isn’t that high.

It’s still a fragrance that trends toward a younger crowd. It is more casual and not really a work scent or something to wear for formal occasions. Going out, just hanging around, maybe a daily wear if you’re college age.

Overall Impression of Bad Boy Extreme

Overall, do I like this Carolina Herrera cologne? I like it for a Bad Boy release. I’m not a massive fan of this line, most of the scents are okay to me, and nothing more. Extreme, is one of the better releases, and maybe the best of the lot.

Extreme is better than Cobalt and one that more people would go for versus Le Parfum.

I like the greater depth that it has versus the original and I think this mix of notes actually works well enough and gives it some extra power.

The opening is a showcase for how much this scent has going on. The ginger and sage, which give way to the patchouli and vetiver, which finishes with the cacao, tonka bean, and labdanum.

That’s when you get the sweetness with the remaining woodsy aroma and touches of spice.

If you enjoy the Bad Boy line from Carolina Herrera, you’ll almost certainly like this one. It’s closer to the original in the dry down, is unique earlier on, and has much better performance.

If you want a spicier chocolate sort of cologne, this can fit the bill. Though, while it smells good, it’s probably not going to be a fit for everyone. If it sounds like something you’d like, give it a try.

Acqua di Gio Profondo Parfum by Armani

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Profondo Parfum was the Acqua di Gio flanker release for 2024. It is the third entry into the Profondo series, but how does it actually stack up?

I bought a sample of it and the original AdG Profondo EDP to see if there were major differences to take note of. How does this one smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

AdG Profondo Parfum Overview

Notes include: lemon essence, bergamot, marine notes, mimosa (everlasting essence), patchouli, cistus, mineral accord, ambergris

Click here to try: Profondo Parfum

My Full Review

The opening of Acqua di Gio Profondo Parfum is in many ways like the original EDP. The distinctions between these two fragrances become a lot more noticeable during the dry down.

But, early on it’s a familiar scent.

Profondo Parfum is a bit sweeter in the opening and less tart. It uses more of the mandarin orange note, without the bergamot playing as large of a role.

So, it’s closer to Acqua di Gio EDP, in that regard. That one had that really powerful mandarin orange in it.

Armani lists the bergamot and a lemon essence, but it still comes across basically like mandarin. The two fragrances are quite a lot alike.

The resinous aroma that I get with EDP isn’t here early on and I do get more of the marine influence. Sort of salty, less woody, but overall a lot of the same things going on here.

The dry down is where some more differences become apparent. This is the stage where you might have a preference for one versus the other.

Profondo Parfum has more of an amber finish with a mineral accord coming through, as well. I don’t find it to be overwhelming, but it is a change of pace from the wood in the EDP.

It has a denser aroma, it’s a darker and somewhat oceanic feeling, as some of the citrus influence has burned off. The amber becomes quite noticeable and is all tied together with patchouli and metallic hints.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Profondo Parfum starts off strong within that first 30-60 minute window. Not massive mind you, but it will certainly project well and make itself known.

After that, it will moderate and still have a nice ability to leave a scent trail. However, I didn’t notice a real difference in how powerful this one is versus what I get with EDP. To me, it performs the same in this regard.

Now, the longevity is slightly better with Parfum. I get around 9 hours more or less from this cologne. So, an extra 60-90 minutes of wear versus the original AdG Profondo.

Seasonally, it’s spring and summer just like the majority of the Acqua di Gio lineup. There’s no real change in that regard.

If you’ve had one of these colognes, you know that they’re versatile daily wears. Not super formal, but are going to fit in easily, be well liked, and non-offensive. It can be worn by any age group, etc.

It’s another mass appealing blue-ish and amber fragrance. A well done example of it, but there’s nothing all that new going on here.

Overall Impressions of Profondo Parfum

Overall, do I like Profondo Parfum? Yes, but I don’t really see a point to having it.

The changes between this and the eau de parfum are there, but I don’t think the higher price tag is justified. It’s sweeter, less woody, and has more of an oceanic influence to my nose. Later it’s amber, with metallic and greenish hints.

However, the performance isn’t much better than what you get with the original. As such, I’m just sort of like, why bother? There is enough distinction to tell the difference, but not enough to really give this one a go, unless I can snag it for cheaper.

It’s certainly better than Profondo Lights, which is probably my least favorite Acqua di Gio or close to it.

Is it better than Profondo EDP? Probably not. I still prefer that formulation to this, but this also isn’t too bad. A bit lower rating for sure, but I don’t particularly have a need for this fragrance.

There’s plenty to enjoy here if you already like Profondo. If it ends up getting deeply discounted, you can probably grab a bottle and perhaps get a bit more longevity than the original.

Smoking Hot by Kilian

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Smoking Hot is a 2023 release from Kilian, under the banner of their ‘Smokes’ collection of fragrances. I had tried and enjoyed this one before, but saw a travel sprayer during the Black Friday sales, and decided to give it a more thorough testing.

It is a perfume that has started to gain some more attention as of late, but how does it actually smell? Is it a long-lasting fragrance? Is it even worth a try at all?

Kilian Smoking Hot Overview

Notes include: apple hookah flavor, cinnamon bark, moss, Bourbon vanilla, tobacco absolute, Orcanox

Click here to try: Smoking Hot from Bloomingdale’s

My Full Review

Here’s how Kilian describes it: At night, there are no rules but one: just be Smoking Hot! KILIAN PARIS newest smoky fragrance is a truly caramelized delight. Evoking everything from European clubs to Eastern hookah lounges, Smoking Hot redefines what a smokey scent is today, going almost where it’s too hot to handle

Smoking Hot begins with an apple and cinnamon blend being quite prominent.  It smells  to me, like Apple Brandy on the rocks, just swapping out that brandy note for a smoky shisha.

Which is good, because the brandy is a note that becomes too bothersome to my nose, after a while. So, I really like what I get here with Smoking Hot instead.

It’s fruity, sweet, smoky, a tad spicy, and fresh. The cinnamon note isn’t as powerful in Smoking Hot, as it is in Angels’ Share, for example.

I was wearing this one again, recently, and kept getting this sweetish/spicy smell in the mix that I couldn’t immediately identify. I had to look up the notes again, to see that it was licorice. Not too much, but it’s fairly prominent underneath during the start of this one.

Plus, you do get some moss and a faint clary sage note, adding a lighter and somewhat greenish dimension to this scent. This is a good change up that adds a lighter fresher clean to it, along with that crisp apple note.

The smokiness does tone down, as will the apple note. The transition is still utilizing that mossy accord, the cinnamon, and the purer tobacco note comes through as more of a standalone.

Vanilla, will come on and stick around for the rest of the way. It is joined by Orcanox, which is another synthetic amber or ambergris note. Those two are with the tobacco and some touches of light spice.

Not a super complex perfume, but it’s still delightful in the fairly linear development.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This one isn’t too heavy of a fragrance that bogs down on you. However, it is powerful with its projection, initially. This Kilian perfume is one that will absolutely be noticeable for most of the wear and gives you a long reach up front.

Though, I think it moderates nicely, as the fragrance transitions into the second act.

As far as how long it lasts, Smoking Hot will go 10-13 hours, on my skin. Very good performance, even if it isn’t the farthest reaching perfume out there.

No real complaints about this aspect of the scent. Sure, it’s an expensive fragrance, but it actually delivers what you’d want when dropping that much money.

Seasonally, this one is autumn through early spring. Maybe a bit deeper into springtime, depending on your local climate. That moss and apple freshness give this one enough lightness to work well even a past room temperature. Just skip the summer.

The versatility here, is obviously a weakness. It’s a fruity and spicy hookah aroma, not exactly what you might want to smell like on every occasion.

Nights out seems like the best bet. I’ve been using my travel sprayer a lot for that. Also, just around the house, for my personal enjoyment. I’ve still worn it out during the daytime.

I’ve gotten positive comments about this one and it’s pretty easy to like. Probably not best to wear it to the office, however.

On the plus, side it is a unisex fragrance, so the potential audience for this is wide, even if the use cases are pretty limited.

Overall Impressions of Smoking Hot

Overall, do I like this fragrance? Yes, it’s one of my favorite perfumes from Kilian. Not perfect, but a very enjoyable one to wear.

I like the smoky hookah accord here versus what you usually get with more of a straightforward tobacco note. The fruity sweetness of the apple, the spice, and the warmer dry down are all great.

Early on, it has more freshness and the moss note is apparent in the transition. But, it will become a warm tobacco with less smoke, vanilla, and some spice.

The cinnamon and apple combination isn’t like what you get with Oajan, Angels’ Share, or even the old 1 Million Prive. Again, it’s closest comp to me is Apple Brandy on the Rocks and that’s still a way’s away.

They share apple, vanilla, ambroxan, and moss. I guess you could say the rum note, has a cinnamon spice to it as well, in that fragrance. Swap out the booze for hookah and it’s closer.

Now, is this one worth a buy? Possibly. It is expensive and might not have much opportunity to be worn, depending on your lifestyle.

It’s a great perfume. It’s also a perfume that you’d probably want to test out with a sample of it, before buying. Not that it’s a challenging scent to wear, but hookah smoke, isn’t a formal type of smell.