Cologne Reviews

L’Homme Ideal L’Intense by Guerlain

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L’Homme Ideal is a line of men’s fragrances from Guerlain that has steadily grown over the latter half of the last decade and into this one. Some releases have been particularly difficult to get a hold of from stores in the USA. That, along with their increasingly popularity, has really driven up prices. 2018’s release was L’Homme Ideal L’Intense. I recently bought a bottle on sale, as I was curious how it related to the others in the series.

What does L’Homme Ideal L’Intense Smell Like?

Notes include: tonka bean, chili pepper, almond, cardamom, vanilla, leather, and more

Click here to try: L’homme Ideal L’intense By Guerlain FOR MEN 3.4 oz Eau De Parfum Spray, black

My Full Review

Note: Bottles now seem to be in black instead of clear glass. It’s the same juice, just different packaging from the one I have.

L’Intense opens up with a warm and fresh spice that’s sitting on the smoothness of leather. The leather note is the backbone of this fragrance, and while it isn’t always the strongest of the lot, it is ever-present.

Chili pepper and cardamom bring the heat. That initial chili pepper is my favorite aspect of this opening act and reminds me a bit of Gucci Guilty EDP in that respect. However, that cologne has more of a rose aroma, which also happens to be a note in this Guerlain.

What’s interesting is the sweetness here. Cardamom lends a bit to it, but there does seem to be a unlisted cherry note here, as well. Some of the other fragrances in the Ideal series have that cherry note and I do get a hint of that.

Not juicy cherry, but very dry. It almost comes across as cherry with tobacco at times. Also, perhaps a touch of citrus in the opening minutes of this, along the line of the original Ideal or Cologne.

One major aspect of Ideal L’Intense is the smokiness. Very incense-like in how it comes across. I suppose you get a bit of that aroma from the sandalwood, almond and vanilla, but there is a stand alone infusion of smoke.

I mentioned the rose note earlier, but it’s almost non-existent in the mix. I can get whiffs of it, if I truly focus, though it isn’t going to jump out.

The top layer of chili pepper burns off and this starts to morph into a fragrance with a pretty strong blend of vanilla, tonka bean, and a resinous labdanum note. Early on, that resinous quality stands out to my nose.

L’Homme Ideal L’Intense has a dark profile with a smooth and a bit of a creamy finish with woody highlights and bursts of freshness. Vanilla, leather, tonka bean, and woods is how it finishes. The smoke begins to subside after that strong initial opener.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage here isn’t all that powerful. In the early stages, I’d say it’s above average with how it projects and its overall strength. However, an hour or two in and it starts becoming more of a skin scent.

That process takes another hour or so. By the 3.5-4 hour mark, it is a complete skin scent with almost no power.

The longevity actually is in the 7 hour range. Maybe, 8 hours. Again, with half that time being quite weak. With the notes and the intense label, I was expecting a lot more from the L’Homme Ideal fragrance.

Its performance isn’t complete garbage or anything, but pretty run of the mill, in the grand scheme of things.

Seasonally, Ideal L’Intense is an autumn and winter wear all the way. The spice, smokiness, and vanilla/tonka/labdanum trio lends itself extremely well to the chillier temperatures.

Probably going to be a better pick for men in their mid-20s and up. Not stuffy, but there is a mature quality here.

I like it more as a nighttime fragrance. However, it isn’t overwhelming enough that it couldn’t be used in the daytime. Semi-formal, casual, nightlife, and potentially romantic wear. It’s attractive and enjoyable, very masculine.

Overall Impressions of Ideal L’Intense

Overall, do I like this scent? It’s fine. I blind bought my bottle for $90, which was a discount, and I’m really not too impressed with it.

The original and Ideal Cologne are both about equal to or better than this one. Extreme and some of the others are tougher to get ahold of in the US, but they’re better as well. Update: They also remade Cologne with the newer ‘Platine’ version.

Update: After staying with it for a few weeks, it’s grown a bit on me and I’ve given it some more points. When I first bought my bottle, I was coming off of a sinus infection, and that may have thrown me off somewhat. Now, it’s cleaner and less smoky. Still not a love for me, but this is a pretty nice wear.

2024 Update: I’ve worn this off and on for a few years. Not too much has changed with my opinion. I still like plenty of what you get with this. Other parts, are still kind of boring and the performance is just pretty good.

The opening act is the most interesting aspect. The chili, the incense like smokiness, fruity touches, and almond combine to make up my favorite part. Even then, it’s not a total love for me.

I don’t give this a strong recommendation. If you can get it for cheaper, it’s not a bad cold weather scent, and has its moments. Yet, I don’t know that it is going to get any less expensive. Even if you enjoy the smell, the performance isn’t great.

If you already love the Ideal line, you probably already know this one. If not, I’d probably start elsewhere. I don’t hate it and I will get use out of this one over the winter, it’s just not going to be my number one pick.

Guilty Eau Pour Homme by Gucci

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Guilty Eau is one of the older scents from the Guilty line, being released in 2015. Since then, the fragrances under this banner, have taken things in a different direction from the original. Guilty Eau Pour Homme, is one that definitely takes its cues from the older compositions.

I picked up a travel sprayer full of this cologne, since I’d never actually tested it for the site. How does it smell? Is it long lasting? Is Eau worth a try?

What does Guilty Eau Pour Homme Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, lemon, orris, snowberry, musk, orange blossom, patchouli

Click here to try: Gucci Guilty Eau Pour Homme 1.6 oz Eau de Toilette Spray

My Full Review

Guilty Eau opens up like a less spicy mix of Intense and the original Guilty EDT. Early on in the wear, I get a greater impression of Intense, which then moves more towards the original.

It the top two citrus notes, toned down with a blend of the signature orange blossom note and the slight powdery quality of orris root. It’s fresh, bright, and cold.

The interesting note here is snowberry, which is apparently in the honeysuckle family. The aroma is somewhat of a cool and minty variety. It and the orris root are what really separate it from its predecessors.

It’s bright and cold early on, but it will settle into a more powdery version of the original. A sweet white floral with touches of musk and patchouli. The lemon note will still be there with the orange blossom, orris, and the base notes.

One noticeable difference that I should mention, is the lack of lavender here. Usually, I would welcome that, all things considered. But, I enjoy the lavender in the EDT version. Here is wasn’t replaced well enough, even if I like the snowberry.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

In terms of how it projects, I get 3-5 feet from skin, at its peak. It’s a fairly moderate sillage, right in line with Guilty EDT. So, a few hours of moderate wear, before it is an airy and pretty much skin scent type of cologne.

On my skin, Guilty Eau will hang around for 5-6 hours before disappearing entirely. That might not be too bad, if you can get it at a discount. At full price, I would want a bit more from a Gucci scent than what this gives.

Seasonally, it can go year round like EDT, but the greatest use will be a wear for spring or early summer. The colder quality of the fragrance, really sits well in the warmer air and adds a crisp freshness that is distinct from the other Guilty’s.

Guilty Pour Homme is kind of an all-purpose fragrance, as it can be worn casually, is safe enough for work, and attractive enough for a date.

Honestly, if a guy just wants something simple and one that can pull complements, Gucci Guilty can do the job. Performance is ehhh, but the versatility is darn good.

Overall Impressions of Guilty Eau

Do I like this fragrance? I like it, but it isn’t something that I really want to wear. While it has elements of the Guilty EDT and Intense, I prefer both of those to this one. The distinctions in the scent, don’t really give me anything that I find all that intriguing.

Plus, you get about the same level of performance as the EDT. I don’t personally want a bottle of that one, nor this one. I like Black, Intense, Love 2020, Absolute, and even EDP more so from this Gucci line.

The snowberry is an interesting note, I would like it to be featured in some other colognes. I would’ve utilized that and the orris more, to really give this a distinct cold and powdery aroma to separate it from the others.

As it stands, it’s too similar to the EDT and not any better. It is one that if you happen to really enjoy the smell of, that you can pretty much wear it anytime. The versatility is great. If you’re a big fan of Guilty Pour Homme, give this a shot.

If not, I’d go with one of the others in the Guilty series.

Update: Coming back to this post in 2024, it seems the Guilty Eau has been discontinued. I’m not currently seeing too many bottles left for sale online. So, if you want it you should probably grab a bottle now. Again, I don’t think it’s probably worth paying up for, but if it’s pretty cheap, go for it.

Apple Brandy on the Rocks by Kilian

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Apple Brandy on the Rocks was a new release by Kilian Paris, that I really wanted to try ever since I first heard about it. Update: This post is from 2021, with some new additions. So, I ordered a sample to have as soon as I got back into town and have been testing this fragrance out. Does the Kilian Liquors perfume live up to the hype? How long does it last? Is it actually worth a buy?

Apple Brandy on the Rocks Overview

Notes include: cardamom, bergamot, ambroxan, apple, pineapple, cedar, rum, vanilla, and moss

Click here to try: Apple Brandy on the Rocks from Sephora

My Full Review

Here’s how Kilian describes this scent: Inspired by the city of New York, KILIAN PARIS introduces its new addition to the Liquors olfactive family: Apple Brandy on the Rocks, an olfactive soundtrack to nightlife’s liberation to come.

The opening to Apple Brandy on the Rocks doesn’t fully work for me. I’ve tested it multiple times on multiple days and still…meh.

There’s an aspect in here that I know I like, the apple and cardamom. However, the pineapple, bergamot, and ambroxan together are heavy and not very appealing.

Those do settle down and this Kilian fragrance will get better. After some more time passes, the apple not fully emerges which gives it a crisp finish, and I start to pick up more on the boozy rum note.

Apple, cardamom, rum are the keys to the second wave. Thankfully, that pineapple note pulls back. The ambroxan? It’s still around too much. It’s warm, slightly sweet, with a fresh coolness peaking through from apple and moss.

The next stage is apple and vanilla with woodsy notes, mostly. Oak, moss, and cedar sitting underneath apple and vanilla. The rum and cardamom, aren’t distinct any longer and provide a general warmth to the fresh woods.

It does simulate the apple brandy smell, well enough overall.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, I thought this one was going to be pretty powerful. The opening does hit strong and projects very well. That is short lived, however. Ultimately, it’s pretty moderate for a few hours. Then, it will sit close to the skin for the rest of the time.

The longevity isn’t great. I get somewhere in the 5-6 hour range, on my skin. That’s pretty bad for a Kilian perfume, as many others I enjoy will hit double digits.

It just doesn’t seem to want to stay around at all. That’s probably my biggest gripe with this one. I know it’s ‘fresher’ aspects can be short-lived, still rather disappointing for the price.

Seasonally, stick to autumn and winter. This is going to be at it’s best in colder temperatures. In the heat, the performance is much worse.

In the chilly air, Apple Brandy on the Rocks has its moments where it catches my attention. That being said, it does have a freshness to it that you might be able to sneak into the springtime, in many places. It’s not as ‘thick’ as Angels’ Share.

It’s a pretty casual fragrance that can be used for nightlife. Unisex for sure, probably leans a bit more towards the traditionally masculine side of the spectrum.

Daily wear too. But, I guess that depends on whether you can get away with smelling like apple brandy in your day to day life. Probably not the most office-friendly perfume for most people out there.

Overall Impressions of Apple Brandy on the Rocks

Overall, do I like this scent? It’s decent. I really like the original Apple Brandy by Kilian and was excited about this one, coming heavier with the fruit notes and freshness. But, ultimately it didn’t live up to expectations.

I was wondering if I was going to have to buy a full bottle of this, right after I did with Angels’ Share from the Liquors collection. Nope.

It’s not terrible and there are aspects that I enjoy. Mainly, the apple and cardamom when they are joined by the rum. The opening pineapple and ambroxan, I don’t like.

The dry down, with vanilla, woods, and moss added to apple and the remaining general warmth from the rum and cardamom is pretty good. It do get the comparisons with Legend, but they aren’t anywhere close to being the same, just have a few similarities.

So, even if the performance was awesome, I wouldn’t be inclined to get a bottle. The mediocre sillage and longevity, just compounds the reasons.

I don’t hate Apple Brandy on the Rocks. At this price range though, I do want something spectacular. To me, this just never hits that level. You may actually like it, but I don’t think it’s one to buy blind.

I did try a fragrance from the Dua Brand called, Blackberry Brandy. I know they have other fruit note brandy perfumes. That one is cheaper and quite good for this style of scent.

Vanille de Tahiti by Perris Monte Carlo

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Vanille de Tahiti was released by Perris Monte Carlo in 2020. I received a sample as a bonus to one of my orders some time ago. I hadn’t heard of this one and actually put off trying it out for a long while. But, eventually I got around to Vanille and wanted to see what it was all about. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

Vanille de Tahiti Overview

Notes include: champaca, ylang-ylang, vanilla, amber, sandalwood, musk

Click here to try: Vanille de Tahiti

My Full Review

Opening minute is pretty dirty with how it comes across. Between the the ylang-ylang influence and champaca  opening, I get why people might get put off by it. That does clear out pretty fast, for me at least.

The ylang-ylang initially has its earthier aroma going for it, but then starts to take on its more banana-like scent. The champaca here, really comes across as an orange flower note, at least a few minutes in. With those two and the vanilla, there plastic/rubbery tinge to this scent.

Much more floral on the skin. Like a tropical flower smell, once that initial dirtiness wears off. The vanilla seems like one part of a triad on the skin, whereas it feels more dominant early on, when sprayed on clothes.

Actually on clothes, this has a classier Le Male vibe to it, that same fuzzy spice (sans mint/cinnamon). Strange.

Eventually, both on skin and clothes it becomes very much the same. Still, an early divergence.

More of a light champaca, ylang-ylang with a definite sweetness, vanilla, and amber especially. The vanilla isn’t pure creamy vanilla either. Leans that way with the sandalwood influence but Vanille de Tahiti does have a musky/powdery undertone throughout.

The dry down for me is a rather simple aroma of a naturalistic vanilla, amber, and sandalwood. It’s creamier at this point, still a lovely sweetness without being sickly, and this Perris perfume has a nice balance.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This is a moderate fragrance with how it projects with a lighter scent trail. It’s not going to necessarily reach across the room. However, in my testing of it, it does create a nice scent bubble and is noticeable for almost the entire wear.

The longevity with this one is around 7-8 hours. It’s not the most powerful scent out there, but it does stick around for a good while. It’s nothing elite, but I really wasn’t disappointed with this Perris fragrance.

Seasonally, this one is a bit too much for the height of summer, but it can fit in nicely during the rest of the year. I think it actually works better on a mild day versus the coldest days of winter.

Yes, this is a unisex scent too. Maybe the floral notes make it lean more traditionally feminine, but if you’re a vanilla fan, this can absolutely work for anyone.

Vanille de Tahiti is more of a daytime fragrance. It can be worn casually, to work, dressed up, etc. I don’t think it’d be out of place in certain nightlife situations, but it’s also not a complete club beast or anything.

If it works for your skin, this will probably get complements. Though, I’m not sure how it’s going to come across to those who have noses the really focus in on the more animalic/dirty aspects of the perfume.

Overall Impressions of Vanille de Tahiti

Overall, do I like this perfume? Yes, I actually kind of love it. I knew nothing of this fragrance when I received it, but it’s won me over.

The opening minutes almost made me doubt, but it is a beautiful scent, once I’m past that. Even still, it’s nothing all that bad.

I guess there are some people who get a dirty or toilet type of smell for a long duration. Not the case for me, it’s more just a dirty floral scent for a brief time.

That’s probably going to stop me from giving this a total buy recommendation. I’d say for sure try, if you can before you commit. It’d be disappointing to find out you’re one of those people, who it smells terrible on, after splurging on a fully bottle.

The sandalwood, vanilla, and amber dry down is awesome. With the remaining floral notes floating around, it’s very enjoyable.

Santal 33 by Le Labo

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Santal 33 has been a massive (I mean, massive) hit for Le Labo since its release back in 2011. There was a time when it was talked about and referenced all of the time. Now, it has calmed down since that earlier era, but still exists as a wildly popular best-seller.

I bought another sample of this unisex perfume in order to revisit and finally put up a full review of Santal 33 for the site. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it still worth a try?

Santal 33 Overview

Notes include: sandalwood, papyrus, leather, violet, cedar, cardamom, iris, amber

Click here to try: Santal 33

My Full Review

To start with, I guess I’ll address the so-called ‘pickle juice’ smell that Santal 33 gets painted with. I can understand why, if certain aspects of this really pop on your skin, but for me I only get a faint bit of it.

Really, this one starts off with a mix of cardamom, violet, some leather, and the ever-present dry woods. Papyrus is the lead wood on me for a while, which will obviously shift to the star of the show, the namesake sandalwood.

The cardamom is the lead. Which, interestingly isn’t the type that gives off the lemony aroma, here it feels fresher with its spice and somewhat camphorous. The cooling sensation is interesting against the papyrus and the violet especially.

Already, I get the powdery qualities of that floral note and the iris. Thankfully, for my own enjoyment, the violet note is kept in check here.

After a while, Santal 33 becomes a clean mix of the floral notes, with the woods which are shifting. Cedar comes on stronger, papyrus fades, and the sandalwood keeps gaining steam.

There is a period here, mostly in the middle act, where I think this Le Labo fragrance really shines. It becomes perfectly balance between the violet, iris, leather, amber, and sandalwood (and other woods). It’s slightly sweet, comforting, smooth, and just great to catch a whiff of.

The dry down is still soft, really dominated by sandalwood and the remnants of everything else. It actually takes on a muskier kind of profile. Dry and still clean, with a light touch of sweetness, and any spice has fallen away.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

This one has a lighter feeling with a pretty substantial projection, in the first few hours. Not a complete beast, unless you start spraying heavy, but I can smell it on me without issue. I can also put some on a shirt and smell it from 6-7 feet away.

Still, this one isn’t heavy and doesn’t feel like it’ll bog you down in a heavy cloud of scent.

On my skin, Santal 33 will last for 7-8 hours. Not amazing, but still very solid for what this one is. It could just fall into being a barely noticeable skin scent. Yet, it doesn’t hit that level for me until deep into the wear.

Seasonally, this is almost a year round fragrance. On the hottest and most humid days of summer, I might go with something else other than this. Outside of that, it should work just fine.

Yes, it is a unisex fragrance. Perhaps slightly more feminine, but I don’t think it strays to far that way, and should work for most people.

Santal 33 is very versatile. Daytime, casual, office wear, school, etc. It’s not entirely formal but doesn’t feel too out of place anywhere. It’s not a straight nightlife perfume either, there are obviously sexier scents, but it’s clean enough that it could work a night.

Overall Impressions of Santal 33

Overall, do I like Santal 33? I do. If I’m just making a decision off of the scent alone, I do still find this one to be thoroughly enjoyable.

Sure, it has been hyped to the stratosphere over the past decade-plus and copied countless times. Still, Santal 33 is a good fragrance. I’m not ever blown away by it, but it has its charm.

That entry into the heart of the note pyramid is actually great, though. The opening is probably its weakest part. It’s fine, 33 just gets better after that.

I think in certain areas especially, everyone wore this perfume for years, which can understandably be grating. This is what is currently happening with Baccarat Rouge 540.

The performance is above average and to me there’s no real downside with this one, other than no longer having a unique aroma.

Most people like this one. Some people love it. While still others, loathe it. At the very least, Santal 33 is a perfume that is indeed worth a try. Even if, it’s just to satisfy your curiosity about the hype, if you’re someone who has yet to try it.