By Designer

Noir Extreme by Tom Ford

by

Still working my way through a box of samples, that I received 5-6 months ago, and only 40-something more fragrances to do write-ups on! For this entry, we have a very popular men’s fragrance by Tom Ford, Noir Extreme. This scent was released in 2015.

This is of course, the flanker fragrance to the original Noir, and one which has plenty of fans. I will cover what the notes are, how it smells, how it performs, and whether or not Noir Extreme is worth a purchase.

Note: I have updated this post several times since the initial review of the sample that I bought years ago.

What does Noir Extreme Smell Like?

Notes include: Cardamom, vanilla, saffron, amber, sandalwood, nutmeg, neroli, orange blossom, kulfi, rose

Click here to try: Tom Ford Noir Extreme Men Eau De Parfum Spray, 3.4 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Noir Extreme is to my nose, a floral spice. The nutmeg and cardamom notes add the warm spice, and I also pick up that familiar saffron smell, along with neroli and orange blossom. It’s warm, with a potent initial spice, and an underlying citrus sweetness.

Yes, the spice is fairly strong at first, but it quickly moves into something that is much sweeter. Vanilla is the main culprit for that, along with what I guess is kulfi (some sort of Indian dessert), but I have no frame of reference for what that should smell like.

However, there is a pistachio note as a part of this accord, and it really comes through with the vanilla about 10-15 minutes into the wear.

At this point in the wear, I really enjoy the vibe that I am getting from Noir Extreme. It is a great gourmand aroma, with ambery warmth, and a nice balance of floral notes. At this stage, a bit of rose and jasmine come out, but neither is all that distinct within the composition.

Though, it does smell more floral than it had been previously, more of a light bouquet effect versus any one standout.

Further along, a woody base emerges, with creamy sandalwood and maybe cedar? I’m not sure what the other wood note is, maybe a blend of some kind. Either way, it solidifies the fragrance, and adds some depth.

What I ultimately get from Noir Extreme is: a creamy/milky vanilla dessert aroma, with amber, saffron, cardamom, and a mix of floral notes. It is deliciously sweet, warm, and very appealing.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

noir extreme review

Projection wise, the sillage starts off strong for me. That power will last for a few hours, before it settles down, closer to the skin.

From there, it is light to moderate. I do enjoy the boldness of the start of Noir Extreme, the later whiffs that you get are nice too, but doesn’t have that same impact.

However, the longevity is still good, even after it loses some sillage strength and 8 hours of wear is not out of the question with this Tom Ford perfume.

Usually it will fall in the 6-8 hour range. It’s not a super beast with how long it lasts, but it is good enough for most purposes. Update: With my full bottle, I can sometimes get an extra hour from Extreme.

Seasonally, I would reserve this for autumn and winter, mostly. It is beautiful in the cooler temperatures and would be fine in more temperate ones. However, it isn’t really built for heat and humidity, so I’d skip on wearing it in summer.

For me, I’d say I really only have a 4-5 month window to wear Noir Extreme where I live. You may get a few more months out of it.

It is a men’s fragrance, but strikes me more as a unisex wear. It’s gourmand sweetness would work just fine for a lady. It also feels more natural to wear it dressed up. To the office, a formal or at least, semi-formal occasion.

It is an attractive fragrance, that people really seem to enjoy, catching a whiff of. The vanilla note sits perfectly on my skin and it’s really nice to wear.

Update: After a few years with Extreme, I can say that it is great for the nightlife. I’ve worn it on dates or at bars and lounges. With it, I have gotten overwhelmingly positive responses, commenting on how ‘sexy’ a fragrance it is.

Overall Impressions of Noir Extreme

Overall, do I like Noir Extreme? Absolutely. This is becoming one of my personal favorite Tom Ford scents, that I’ve worn thus far (and that’s most of them). The vanilla blend, the cardamom, amber, and spice notes at the top are all great.

I wish the sillage held its power for longer, but the overall performance is still very solid. It is an expensive fragrance, but is probably one that would be worth owning. Noir Extreme isn’t super ‘extreme’ but it is a very beautiful fragrance. Somewhat limited to cooler temperatures.

Coming back to this one a few more times, has really made me appreciate the intricate layers of this fragrance. I’m not one of the Tom Ford super fans, but when this label gets it right, the results are spectacular. This is one of those instances.

Noir Extreme and Noir de Noir are Ford scents that I can come back to time and time again. If it could get a few more hours of wear, it would be near perfect for certain times of the year. As it is, it’s still one of the best fragrances around.

Update: I’m probably half way through my full bottle of Noir Extreme. It’s absolutely one of my favorites for wintertime. Tom Ford also released a Parfum version of Noir Extreme, which some people prefer.

Personally, I like the original a bit more still. Though, I own and wear both (sometimes together). Try both and see how each works for you.

noir extreme parfum

Hugo Red by Hugo Boss

by

I’ll be making my way through plenty of reviews over the next few weeks and today I thought that I’d go with one from Hugo Boss, Hugo Red. I’ve already included this cologne on my list of best by Hugo Boss, however, I want to give it a closer look that I feel it deserves.

In this post, I will explore what makes up Red, what it smells like, how it performs, and whether or not I think it is worth a buy. Note: This page has been updated a few times since its original posting.

What does Hugo Red Smell Like?

IMG_0766

Notes include: grapefruit, pink pepper, rhubarb, amber, pineapple, tonka bean, cedar

Click here to try: HUGO BOSS Red EDT Spray for Men, 6.8 Fluid Ounce

Hugo Red Full Review

Hugo Red is quite an interesting scent to me. At times, it reminds me of some other fragrance that I’ve once smelled and at other times it seems wholly unique.

The opening is the usual citrus affair of pineapple and grapefruit notes which give it a spring/summer fruity vibe to it. The pink pepper and amber feel, has a Guess Seductive quality to it.

But, this is a fresher and less heavy kind of cologne.

However, Hugo Red becomes interesting in that there is this almost metallic aroma to it, sort of like Creed Himalaya (which I don’t enjoy) but in Red it is enjoyable.

The spice to this really isn’t really heavy and it’s kind of tough to explain. Red has a warm and woodsy heart that is only slight spicy and provided by the amber, pink pepper, and cedar.

It’s sort of unique because the rhubarb note isn’t all that common in many fragrances and I think that this note is what is setting Hugo Red apart.

This fragrance is quite clean, crisp, and refreshing. People also seem to dig it while I have it on, even if it can seem synthetic/generic at times.

There’s a very slight tonka bean after a while, but it isn’t all that noticeable during most wears.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

It is a moderate projection and I could detect it without having to get close to my skin. It stays moderate for 2-4 hours, before having a lighter sillage, but sticking around for a long while.

This fragrance has a reputation of not lasting long but I got really good wear out of it. I put it on the night before and it was quite noticeable still when I woke up the next morning.

Update: Upon wearing this for a while, I actually can get 8+ hours easily, but it fits in the 8-10 hour range mostly.

This would be a great choice for the warmer months, but I think it’d perform pretty well in wintertime, also. I like to wear it casually or for a night out during the summertime.

Hugo Red isn’t really an office scent, can have more of a youthful vibe. Not just for teenagers, but can work great for guys in their mid-20s. It just works in its simplicity, and has a unique enough vibe, to make it worthwhile.

Overall Impressions of Hugo Red

Overall, is Hugo Red a buy? It does smell good and it’s completely safe to wear for any occasion. I’d say that this could be an everyday summer wear for guys in the 18-30 range. It’s not too expensive and was a solid performer for me.

If you like citrus based scents with a woodsy/spicy heart, then Hugo Red is worth a look. I actually really enjoy this as a summertime citrus fragrance.

It’s unique and has a great blend of tartness and sweetness. That metallic finish is a great addition to making this Hugo Boss scent, stand out on its own.

Is it amazing? No, but it is all around a very good cologne, that has flown under the radar.

Update: Red has been discontinued by Boss. It’s harder to get a hold of bottles, but they do still exist, and usually for a great price. But, that’ll change as soon as the fragrance gets scarce.

I wouldn’t pay too much for a bottle, as it’s basically a fun summertime fragrance. Though, I’d enjoy having it again, if it were still a value.

Y EDT vs Eau Fraiche Comparison

by

Y EDT has spawned four other flanker cologne since its release a few years back. One of them, was last year’s Y Eau Fraiche. A lighter and fresh take on the Y DNA. Which one of these fragrances is better? Lasts longer? Is the better buy? I’ve worn and reviewed both and share my thoughts on the head to head in this post.

Tale of the Tape: Y EDP vs EDT

Y EDT

Notes include: bergamot, ginger, aldehydes, violet leaf, geranium, sage, cedar, musk, incense, ambergris, fir

Click here to try: Yves Saint Laurent Y Eau De Toilette Spray 100ml/3.3oz

Read my original Review: Y EDT

Y Eau Fraiche

Notes include: lemon, pepper, ginger, mint, juniper, lavender, geranium, and cedar

My Review: Y Eau Fraiche

Opening

Update: YSL released an updated version of Y EDT in 2022. It’s slightly different from the original released in 2017. This post is about the original 2017 version. Everything still basically applies, however.

Y EDT opens up with a cool and crisp aroma. There is a light bergamot note, along with aldehydes, which gives the EDT a bright and sunny disposition. Underneath that, is violet leaf, ginger, and a light ambergris. It is a very good smell, light, and clean.

Eau Fraiche shares lots of overlap with EDT. It has the lemon, ginger, and mint. However, it also does away with plenty of the other notes. It’s actually cleaner, fresher, and has a bit of a spicier kick with the black pepper note.

While they are somewhat similar at the start, there is enough distinction between them in the early stages? Which do I prefer? I like Eau Fraiche. It’s got a cold vibe and really comes across great in the warmer weather.

Edge: Eau Fraiche

Projection

Y EDT has a moderate sillage for much of the wear. Noticeable, but not heavy or a super projecting monster. It does settle much lighter, however.

Eau Fraiche is the weaker concentration and so never hits the same level of power as EDT. It’s a lighter summer wear, but actually is pretty good for this sort of scent. Just not to the same level as its competitor.

Edge: Y EDT

Longevity

With EDT, I pretty consistently get 7 hours of wear. Not spectacular, but passable. Eau Fraiche on the other hand, gets me 6 consistently and 7 on occasion. Again, the scent won’t be as powerful, but it almost keeps pace with the original.

Edge: EDT

Versatility

Y Eau Fraiche is a rather limited fragrance. It’s built for late spring/summer and is best worn during the daytime. That’s what it’s built for.

Y EDT is more of an all around daily wear, that can venture into pretty much any season, and many situations.

Edge: Y EDT

Overall Scent

So, with Y EDT having better performance and versatility it is going to be the winner, right? For me? Not exactly.

Point blank, I like the way Eau Fraiche smells more so than EDT. Yes, the end up quite similar, especially in the latter stages. However, I really like that cold lemon and summertime vibe. I wore Eau Fraiche at the beach and it worked very well.

Sure, it’s got a limited use case, but it’s just a better scent. In fact, EDT is my least favorite of the Y lineup.

That’s not to say that it is a bad fragrance, it isn’t. Though, it isn’t spectacular either. If you need an all around cologne, you could do worse. And if you’re in that situation and choosing between these two, go with EDT.

The better scent is Eau Fraiche.

Winner: Eau Fraiche

Explorer Ultra Blue by Montblanc

by

Explorer Ultra Blue is the follow up to the very popular Explorer from Montblanc. It was released in 2021, but I grabbed a sample more recently to test it out and see if it was actually worthwhile. How does Ultra Blue Smell? Does it last long? Is it better than the original Explorer?

What does Explorer Ultra Blue Smell Like?

Notes include: pink pepper, bergamot, sea notes, fruits, ambergris, wood, patchouli, leather

Click here to try: Explorer Ultra Blue

My Full Review

Here’s how Mont Blanc describes it: Explorer Ultra Blue celebrates the Blue found throughout nature. Intense, infinite, and fresh, the eau de parfum reveals a citrus woody marine fragrance. Embark on an epic journey.

The opening of Ultra Blue doesn’t come across like the original Explorer. Actually, the opening of this fragrance is a lot like Light Blue Living Stromboli with how it smells.

Citrus, pink pepper, aquatic notes, and vetiver are the overlaps between them. This one starts out blended more, with a less intense use of the pink pepper (heavily featured in the D&G cologne).

After about ten minutes, this will separate away from that comparison, and more towards being its own thing.

Ultra Blue does have its own overlap with the original Explorer, but the smell is different. Notes shared, include: bergamot, pink pepper, leather, vetiver, amber. Different weightings and you replace the cacao with sea notes (which is simply going to be different).

It’s fresh, with a hint of citrus, a salty marine accord, and woods. Actually, some smoothness in there from a touch of leather.

That’s my dry down. A light amber, mixing with a mix of the marine, woods, and some leather. Not super deep or complicated.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The first hour or so does have a nice punch to it. It’ll extend out to about a seven-ish foot radius from where you sprayed, at its peak. By the end of that hour, it’s come closer to the three foot range.

So, Explorer Ultra Blue does pretty quickly dissipate with its power and ability to leave a scent trail. Not a heavy scent, that’ll bog down on you. At it’s height, it does have a substantial heft for a fresh aquatic.

The longevity here isn’t all that great. It’s okay, on my skin, in the 5-6 hour range in total. The last couple of hours are pretty light and skin scent level.

Seasonally, this is a cologne that is more for the spring and summer months. But, honestly, I’d be fine with it anytime other than when it is really cold out. That fresh bite, might be too much.

It’s a clean and fresh daily wear. Not very formal, romantic, or a club beast. It’s one that you can wear to work (at most jobs), casually, or at school if you’re a student.

Ultra Blue is pleasant and probably not ever going to offend anyone.

Overall Impressions of Explorer Ultra Blue

Overall, do I like this cologne? It’s okay. I don’t hate it, but I’m sure that I’ll forget about this one in a short amount of time.

Ultra Blue isn’t unpleasant, but there’s not much going on here that really grabs my attention. The aquatic accord is pretty nice, the citrus isn’t that strong, and all of the other notes kind of end up blending together.

If you want an easy blue aquatic with a relatively pleasant woody base…this could fit the bill. Though, I’d want a massive discount for it. Ultra Blue is very serviceable, though never spectacular.

I do have a full bottle of Living Stromboli, which I purchased for review, and has a comparable opening. I prefer that Light Blue flanker to this and that was never cologne that I particularly loved.

Everything here is just fine. Smell is just fine, performance, quality, etc. The original had its somewhat different take on the Aventus style. Yet, it is a much better fragrance than this more unique Ultra Blue flanker.

Polo Red Parfum by Ralph Lauren

by

Polo Red Parfum is another flanker in the long line of Red colognes, put out by Ralph Lauren. This one was released in 2023. I’ve already tried this one out once before, but now I’ve gotten a sample size sprayer in order to do a full review. How does it smell? Does Red Parfum last long? Is it worth a try?

What does Polo Red Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: blood orange, bergamot, pink pepper, absinthe, lavender, orris, musk, cedar, opoponax 

Click here to buy: Polo Red Parfum

My Full Review

Red Parfum starts out with a prominent blood orange note, like in Red Extreme. This time, however, it isn’t flanked by coffee and wood. Instead, early on, you get some assistance from a citrus bergamot note and some like warmth/spice of pink pepper.

The pink pepper is pretty subdued to my nose, especially when I compare it to other fragrances with a heavy use of that note.

I was interested in this scent, after reading about the absinthe as a note. Maybe a bit of bitterness in the first hour, underneath everything else. Other than that, it really doesn’t show up on my skin.

One thing that I will note, is the cranberry found in Polo Red EDT, does seem to be here to some limited extent. Not listed, but I keep getting hints of it coming through. So, it probably actually is a part of this blend.

A difference with the others in the line, is that the citrus loses much of its strength after 15 minutes or so. By this time, the lavender and orris notes have moved in. Now, the orris root adds a touch of powder to the scent, but is vastly overshadowed by lavender.

At this point in the wear, it’s: lavender, blood orange, pink pepper, musk, and orris.

Quite fresh, clean, warm, with some increasing resin in the base from the opoponax. In the end, it’s still sweet with the blood orange residue. But, mainly Red Parfum is about the lavender, musk, cedar, opoponax. Orris and pink pepper have faded to basically nothing.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Red Parfum isn’t a super heavy fragrance that bogs down. It does open up with a strong projection and a further reach than Red EDT.

From there, it’s in the upper range of moderate for a few hours, before it slides into something lighter to middling. Pretty good with the power, just not amazing.

On my skin, I get somewhere in the 6-7.5 hour range. It might go 8 hours, at times. Beyond that, I wouldn’t expect much. It’s above average and good for most uses.

Seasonally, Polo Red Parfum can work pretty much whenever, outside of the hottest days of the year. I’d go with something else during the summer months.

It is more of a casual and daytime wear. I think it can fit in more places than Red EDT since it doesn’t have that lemon and strong cranberry coming through the entire time.

Especially, once the citrus notes tone down, this will be able to be worn at the office or school without trouble. It’s not a formal sort of fragrance, but can fit in for the nightlife, without being a ‘club beast’.

Overall Impressions of Polo Red Parfum

Overall, do I like Red Parfum? I do. It’s about on par with the original Polo Red. I might like this one slightly more, but that could change day to day. Nonetheless, it is one of the better releases from this series, while still trailing Red Extreme.

I do love the return of the blood orange note, with the bergamot, and phantom cranberry note giving a nod to the original. It’s got a great citrus blend, fresh spice, clean lavender, and a woodsy base.

The back half of the wear is more basic. Polo Red Parfum loses some of its luster. Though, I find it to still be pleasant enough, and not bad at all.

The performance is better than the EDT and is above average, while not being elite. I never expect Ralph Lauren colognes to have crazy performance, but this is one that I have no real problems with.

All in all, it’s worth checking out, if you like this series. One of the better releases from this brand as of late.

It’s different in some ways, with familiar elements poking up throughout. Less tart and candy sweet than the EDT, over the long haul. It’s probably safe enough for a blind buy, but I might wait for it to go on sale, before grabbing a full bottle.