By Designer

L’eau D’Issey Pour Homme by Issey Miyake

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I first wrote this review, early on in this website’s history back in 2014, and it was one of the first that I ever did. I had purchased a full bottle of L’eau d’Issey on a whim, because I had heard good things about this popular Issey Miyake fragrance. I had no clue who this Japanese designer even was.

Now, I’m coming back around in 2023 to give a more in depth review, because the first time around wasn’t sufficient. What’s funny, is that even til this day, it is a consistent;y popular for guys around the word.

What does L’Eau D’Issey Smell Like?

For a cologne which has been on the market since 1994, still being in the top sellers is quite an accomplishment. Why all the fuss? Quite simply because it smells good. L’eau D’Issey is a cologne which I have had on my night stand throughout the years and one that I like to break out in the spring and summer months especially, but it works year round.

Notes include: lemon, yuzu, tarragon, bergamot, tobacco, vetiver, lotus, nutmeg, musk, cedar, sandalwood, lily

Click here to try: L’eau d’Issey

My Full Wear Review

The first thing one notices after spraying L’eau D’Issey on your skin is the way the citrus notes blend with the spice. That is my least favorite part of this fragrance, is its initial offering. Some people really enjoy it but it’s just meh to me. When seeing the notes listed with yuzu and lemon, you would expect it to open up with a juicy citrus aroma.

That’s not really the case here, L’eau d’Issey is pretty sharp at the start, but dry as it is paired with woods, vetiver, spices, and tobacco. As such, the whole thing takes on a different aroma from many other fragrances on the market.

However, once the cologne begins to settle and fully reveal itself, that’s when the true magic of Issey Miyake starts.

Issey Miyake Pour Homme is a very bright scent. Like, it radiates a feeling of sunshine on a spring or summer day. It feels utterly familiar, yet still so unique, as I haven’t come across another men’s cologne that smells the same as this one.

It isn’t utterly complex, it is dominated by citrus, then comes the spice, and then the musky and woody base. It is in the same category of scent as something like, Light Blue.

The yuzu and lemon, get paired with nutmeg and tarragon. It’s spicy but not insanely so. As it dries down, the spice begins to fade for me, and the citrus isn’t as sharp.

When the wood notes emerge (cedar and sandalwood), so do hints of floral notes, which is mainly the lotus. Not my favorite flower, but not bad here. The musk is noticeable, though, the composition remains clean and fresh and doesn’t get bogged down into a musky mess.

The citrus and the wood notes, are my favorite ingredients here. That dry down period, is the highlight of L’eau D’Issey, while the opening act is just okay.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, it would always start out really strong for me, and then move into a more moderate phase.

I always seem to keep L’eau d’Issey to 2-3 sprays max, because of the strength, and not wanting to be outlandish with it on warmer days. Unless I’m outside or it’s going to be a while before I am in close quarters with other people.

The longevity was solid and clocked in around 6-8 hours, depending on the day. It never went to extreme lengths of time, on my skin, but it never quit on me early, either. I really have no complaints about the performance of L’eau D’Issey.

Update: Coming back to this one, it doesn’t seem to have any weakened performance over the years, at least on my skin. It still sticks around for 6 hours or more. 

What I really enjoy about this cologne is its versatility. To me, it works during any season, but I’ve said that I really dig it when it gets warm. Since I live in a humid region, I need a fragrance which will hold up in the spring and summer months, and Issey Miyake has proven itself capable.

This can be great to have on hand, because I have so many colognes that only work when it’s cold out, that I need something of a go-to for the heat.

Also, this is a fragrance that can be worn at work or at school or for a night on the town. It’s designed as a more casual every day kind of fragrance, but it definitely draws women closer.

I’ve gotten too many complements on this one, to keep track of, and it’s honestly not even my favorite cologne. But since it seems to work, I can’t complain. Not what I’d call a sexy cologne, but very masculine and appealing.

You get a clean freshness, that has a fairly familiar kind of profile, but enough differences to make it stand out from the pack.

Overall Impressions of L’eau D’Issey by Issey Miyake

Overall, L’eau D’Issey is a good buy because it’s not too expensive, it’s versatile, and seems to always draw complements. There are others which I think smell better, but there are few which have as many strengths.

As a casual, everyday wear, this Issey Miyake one is a great option to have around. I haven’t been too much into the flankers of this scent (like Blue Astral), but I can keep coming back to the original, and enjoy wearing it.

I like the citrus notes here. Not as big of a fan, of their initial pairing with the tarragon and nutmeg. It can be too sharp, too potent, but this cologne settles down nicely.

Update: L’eau D’Issey is no longer one that I keep a bottle of at all times. Though, it’s still one that I have fond memories of and enjoyed wearing again. At a decent price, it’s a fragrance that is worth picking up. Sub-$50 seems like a fine price still.

Nautica Voyage N-83 by Nautica

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So far on this site, I have reviewed a few colognes from Nautica, including Voyage and Nautica Blue. Today, though, I want to tackle a flanker fragrance of Voyage; N-83 from 2013. Like other Nautica scents, this is another inexpensive option in the aquatic realm of men’s colognes.

How does N-83 stack up against other options in this price range and is it worth it over something like the original Voyage or Blue? In this post, I want to give an overview of its contents, how it performs, and if it’s ultimately worth a buy.

What does Voyage N-83 Smell Like?

Notes include: cardamom, petitgrain, mint, lavender, sandalwood, nutmeg, sea notes

Click here to try: Nautica N-83

My Full Wear Review

N-83 opens with a noticeable blast from the ‘sea notes’, giving it a defined oceanic scent. To me it is less akin to the original Voyage and more along the lines of Tommy Bahama Set Sail St. Martinique, not exactly the same, but the salty sea notes are comparable.

Both of these scents have a stronger aquatic aroma that is blended with at least some musk, though, the Tommy Bahama scent is muskier. N-83 has a much sharper edge, while Martinique is rather smooth.

The original Voyage has citrus fruit notes including orange, however, N-83 is a departure from that and instead opts to go with something that is fresh and clean with undertones of musk and smooth lavender.

From the top, you get a cool and spicy mint with a hint of petitgrain. Neither of which, is all that pronounced in the composition, but you will get their scent for a while. It comes across as fairly herbal with lighter musk at first, with that marine note permeating everything.

The opening of this actually seems like a mix of St. Martinique and the newer release, Voyage Heritage. That Voyage is a stronger mint/lavender pairing.

What you really get with Voyage N-83 is a semi-soapy aquatic, with some freshly clean spice, and calming lavender. It doesn’t hit you with any citrus notes or other fruity inclusions, like most other aquatics.

You do get a nice bit of salty ‘sea air’ smell, which is a cool touch to the composition. Which, I guess can be a good or bad thing, depending on your personal tastes.

N-83 is a pretty simple and straightforward fragrance, that’s not a bad thing, it’s not meant to be some rich complex formula…just an inexpensive scent that smells good. I think it delivers on that end. I think that this scent is a bit more masculine than Voyage with less fruit and seemingly more understated.

Sillage, Longevity, and Projection

Projection wise, N-83 is completely moderate. This isn’t one that will fill up a room unless you went completely overboard with it. You do get a solid 30-60 minute, opening act with some power.

However, that will change and it will be a lighter moderate scent. Not terrible with the projection and scent trail. Just not a massive cologne.

Longevity isn’t that great either. I think that is one area where it fails to live up to the original. 4-6 hours and it fades into a skin scent. The first 3 hours, is where it’ll actually be really noticeable, with that aforementioned first hour delivering the goods.

It is good for casual wear or at the office (not a formal workplace, however), especially in the summer months, which is the case with pretty much any Nautica fragrance. I’d definitely lean towards casual wear or some outdoors activities like the beach.

This is much more of a starter cologne for guys, so, it can be a good option for younger men. If you’re older, its going to be of a fairly limited use, and you should consider going up-market for something better.

Still, N-83 is very serviceable in a pinch or when you just want a ‘dumb’ grab.

Overall Impressions of Voyage N-83

Overall, is N-83 worth a buy? You could definitely do a lot worse and for the price, it really is a solid pick. However, I think that Nautica has a few better options in this price range, that will deliver the same if not much better results depending on your personal taste.

It’s a nice, clean, soapy, type of scent but nothing special and there are better bets from the same brand. Though, this one is still one of their better releases. Especially, with some of the boring stuff Nautica has put out as of late.

That opening freshness and musk is pleasant with the highlights of petitgrain, cardamom, and mint. Nothing too dramatic, just something that has a great vibe.

When compared to designer scents at a higher price point, it doesn’t really compare at all. You can easily do better higher up the price chain and even lower points than this. Still, N-83 has always been likeable and an easy grab.

Gentlemen Only Casual Chic by Givenchy

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With my recent sample haul, I received my third fragrance from Givenchy’s Gentlemen Only line, Casual Chic. This was released in 2015. My favorite of the previous two was Gentlemen Only Intense, but Casual Chic seemed to be more of an imitation of the original than that particular flanker cologne.

In this review, I’m going to cover what it’s made of, how it smells, performs, when it should be worn, and if I think that it is worth a purchase or not.

What does Gentlemen Only Casual Chic Smell Like?

Notes include: cedar, ambroxan, birch leaf, sandalwood, cardamom, ginger, juniper

Click here to try: Givenchy Gentlemen Only Casual Chic Eau De Toilette Spray, 3.3 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

Here’s how Givenchy describes it: A seductive fragrance for the easygoing gentleman. Fresh and relaxed for a casual chic allure.

The initial spray of Casual Chic seems to have an element of orange for the first 30 seconds or so before the spicy and woody aroma emerges. It has an outdoorsy vibe that is topped by the ginger and juniper notes which creates quite an interesting combination.

Casual Chic is energetic and fresh with an old school feel that never strays into the unisex category like some other scents.

The ginger note provides that characteristic spice throughout the life of the scent and Casual Chic is one of the better uses of this note, that I’ve experienced recently.

I find it to be quite ‘green’ and woodsy, like a walk in the forest on a late spring or summer day, but it doesn’t go full woods as compared to another scent like Azzaro.

The ambroxan note, keeps it warm and smooth without getting overpowered by the cedar.

When compared to the original Gentlemen Only, I do find some similarities in the composition, but the original is much smokier and actually does have that orange not that Casual Chic briefly mimics.

Sillage, Longevity, and When to Wear

It’s projection is pretty moderate but it is better than its predecessor in this regard. It’s not an overwhelming fragrance, but it is noticeable.

It’ not a heavy fragrance, lighter to moderate in terms of sillage. However, it does project rather well. So, you do get some value out of this spring and summer wear.

It does have good longevity on my skin, probably 7 hours of wear. This is when the original fell flat by hour 3…so that’s a good improvement.

Not an elite scent, I’m just glad it outshines the original at least. Surprising, considering what its based on, but Casual Chic worked pretty well for me.

I’d rate this as a casual scent, as the name implies. Good for work, school, or a day spent around town.

It’s a outdoorsy kind of cologne but it seems to be best for warmer weather, when so many other similar scents get stuck in the winter category. This is a nice change of pace from the norm.

It could probably be worn to work or semi-formally. Not really a club scent or something super formal. But, the freshness and easy going nature gives it the ability to be worn fairly extensively in the spring and summer.

Overall Impressions of Casual Chic

Overall, is Casual Chic worth a buy? I enjoy it but it doesn’t really fit me and my style. That said, it is better than the original Gentlemen Only.

So, if you like that or if this composition seems to fit your personal style, it could be a good purchase at the right price. It’s solid all around but it doesn’t particularly blow me away ever, for what it does, it does it well enough.

The juniper and ginger are the highlights for me. Not too big on the ambroxan and birch, but the other woods give it a nice freshness. Nothing about Casual Chic is bad, more of an above average cologne that some guys will really like, while others will mildly enjoy.

Update: While there are still bottles around online, Givenchy discontinued this one some time ago. The one’s I have seen are mostly on eBay and are selling for around $100. Not going to be worth the reach for most people. Unless you’ve already tried it and loved it, you can pass on Casual Chic.

Only the Brave Wild by Diesel

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Another sample that I received recently is from the Only the Brave line by Diesel, named, Wild. Flanker fragrances to original scents that have enjoyed popularity can be hit and miss. Sometimes, you get an improvement over the original, and many other times you get a complete dud. How does Only the Brave Wild stack up? Please continue reading below for my full take.

What does Only the Brave Wild Smell Like?

Notes include: citronella, lavender, nutmeg, black pepper, coconut wood, cedar

Click here to try: Diesel Eau De Toilette Spray for Men, Only The Brave Wild, 4.2 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Only the Brave Wild, is a mix of woodsy green notes and spice provided by the black pepper and nutmeg notes. It took me a few minutes to figure out what the nutmeg note was reminding me of and I finally placed it to Polo’s Double Black.

No, these two scents aren’t clones of one another, it was just that singular note which was drawing my attention. But with the citronella note in this one instead of the mango in Double Black, there is a vague resemblance lurking between the two scents.

Anyways, there is a fresh spiciness and warmth to this cologne from the outset. The grapefruit-like aroma (citronella) gives Only the Brave Wild an understated citrus aroma that blends rather nicely but ultimately weakens after about a half an hour.

There is also coconut wood as a note and not the coconut itself, which is interesting because it isn’t an intense coconut smell like found in Virgin Island Water.

However, you do pick up on that sort of tropical vibe underneath the wood and spice. As it moves along, I get more of the black pepper and nutmeg combo paired with the wood, and much less of the citrus/coconut combo.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, this Diesel cologne, is kind of weak, but not a complete disaster. You might add an extra spray while wearing it to get a full effect. Still, not going to overwhelm.

It hangs in the air rather lightly but it does have a pretty good radius of projection for a time. The overall effect is pretty limited.

The longevity is also not so great, I’d say around 4 hours per wear, maybe 5 on occasion. The sillage is a bit better than how long it actually lasts, which isn’t saying much.

For a mainstream designer fragrance, that’s just flat out embarrassing. I tested it a few times and that’s what I got out of Wild. With a super cheap cologne, I might expect performance like this, but not for Diesel.

This strikes me as a fall through springtime scent. I wouldn’t like this in the summer and it would probably perform even worse in the heat. Even though it isn’t a heavy fragrance, has some citrus and tropical notes, I’d still pass when it’s hot out.

In cold weather, it could be fairly decent, as a casual or maybe office kind of cologne to wear. There are certainly more formal and better options, however. I wouldn’t wear this for a night on the town, a date, or anything else of the sort.

It’s not a very versatile fragrance outside of the range of climate that it can be worn in.

Overall Impressions of Only the Brave Wild

Overall would I recommend Only the Brave Wild? Not really. I don’t see it as useful in any meaningful way. It doesn’t smell terrible, but it’s just okay, and very forgettable.

The performance isn’t good enough for it to be a sneaky good fragrance, and I’m pretty unenthusiastic about wearing it any further. It is fairly unique, it just doesn’t do much of anything with that uniqueness.

Like, the performance is bad, even if you happen to personally like the smell. Coming back to this scent, I’m wavering on even that aspect of it. I still think that Only the Brave Wild is mid in smell and pretty lousy in almost every other aspect.

There are a ton of better options at this price point and below, so Only the Brave Wild is the odd man out.

The One Luminous Night by D&G

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The One is a series of fragrances that has spun of a bunch of flankers, including the ‘Night’ special editions. Luminous Night released in 2021, is one that has gotten a lot of attention out of those three, to the point where finding a bottle is an expensive proposition. Is it actually worth it? How does it smell? Does it last long?

What does The One Luminous Night Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, basil, black pepper, dates, amber, incense, sage, geranium, sandalwood

luminous night review

My Full Review

Here’s how D&G describes it: Inspired by the captivating contrast between the deep blue night sky and the blazing gold stars set within it, The One Luminous Night conjures the magic and splendour of a star-studded Arabian night.

When I first saw the notes, bottle, and concept of The One Luminous Night I was excited to try it. The blue bottle looks great.

However, since it was a limited edition and not sold in the US, I kind of forgot about it for a while.

Forgot to the point that bottles became scarce, and I had to secure a decant of it for testing. Knowing that, I would probably plop down the near $200 for a bottle off of eBay if I loved the fragrance.

Upon spraying, I do get the contrast between cool and the warm notes. The early part of this scent is fresh with the sweetness of the dates lurking underneath.

Sage and basil are the stronger of the spicy notes to be. I don’t get all that much black pepper and only a faint peak of the geranium note. The pepper is mostly around for the first 15 minutes, then is pretty much gone.

It is interesting, the style here reminds me of one of the L’Homme Ideal flankers, even while they don’t smell the same. Smokiness, warmth, spice, with a nice fruit providing a sweet heart.

The initial freshness will subside. Sage sticks around, but it will fall down the chain of importance.

Dates, amber, incense, and wood. Expect that to be the main event for basically the rest of the wear. The dates are nice, more of a dried fruit aroma, than anything hyper-sweet or juicy.

Slightly smoky dates sitting in a pool of amber is how I would describe this one. In the middle act, the geranium while still not heavy, does pick up somewhat. Once that pepper is out of the way, I can get more of it.

Update: Now that I have a full sized bottle of Luminous Night, I’ve noticed that it does present somewhat differently, on any given wear. Sometimes, the sage is massive. Other times, this is much more of the warm and sweet aroma led by the date note. When the sage is super heavy, I enjoy this less.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this isn’t a powerhouse. Actually pretty moderate, at its height and then more intimate, without being a complete skin scent. The opening can indeed pack a punch, however. For me, that is a pretty short-lived experience.

The projection runs about 2-4 feet off of the skin for much of the wear. I do notice it on me throughout, just not a complete monster.

It lasts somewhere in the 7-8 hour range. Again, it’s not a strong fragrance, but it does stick around. It’s one of the better The One fragrances, in terms of performance. Which, isn’t one of the series’ strong suits.

Seasonally, this is best in autumn and winter. But, as a nighttime fragrance, if it isn’t too hot and sticky out…you can wear it whenever. Definitely avoid wearing Luminous Night, during the day in spring and summer, especially. Can be a pretty cloying cologne, in that situation.

It’s very attractive and well put together. Semi formal or even formal social situations would be fine. It can absolutely be worn dressed up, while still having its sexy side as a date night go to.

But, that being said, I do prefer this as more of a casual or ‘going out’ nighttime fragrance. The sweetness and warmth feels more in line with that versus being a pure formal play.

Overall Impressions of Luminous Night

Overall, do I like Luminous Night? I do enjoy it. I think that is smells very good, but it isn’t a total love for me. I don’t know if I’m going to get a full bottle for myself (I might still), since that would run me $200 or so.

Update: I did get a bottle, once I found one for around $100. Still sort of feel like I overpaid, but wasn’t too terrible of a deal.

That being the case, it is one of the best The One releases. Better performing than the EDT, even if I enjoy the smell of that a bit more. Plus, I do have a full EDP bottle too.

I actually really like that opening act, with its burst of freshness to contrast against the warmth of the rest of the wear. Basil, pepper, sage, and geranium with a bright bergamot is great. The date note is also very attractive.

I really like everything about this release. I’m just not floored by it. When I compare it to another expensive release I purchased a full bottle of, Noir Extreme, it just doesn’t hit me on the same level.

Update: That sage note, can be somewhat annoying depending on how it shows up on any given day. Sometimes, it just smells overwhelming versus the date and even other spicier ingredients.

I recommend it. If this were a more available scent, I’d probably tell everyone that it’s one to pick up. At $200? Maybe not for everyone. But, it also is a safe blind buy based on the smell and performance alone.

Scarcity made this one go from a sure thing, to something you may want to track down decants of before committing to the entire thing.