By Designer

Le Male In The Navy by JPG

by

In the Navy is one of the multitude of Le Male flankers to have been put out by JPG, over the years. It came out back in 2018 and I had come in contact with it back then. But, once I saw it again, I scooped up some samples in order to give it a proper review. How does it smell? How long does it last? Is In the Navy worth a try?

What does Le Male in the Navy Smell Like?

Notes include: vanilla, peppermint, oceanic accord, ambergris

Click here to try: Le Male in the Navy

My Full Review

Here’s how JPG describe it: An aquatic fougere. A splash of icy peppermint, invigorated by the salty freshness of an oceanic accord and contrasted with a vanilla note.

The opening is cold and fresh with that peppermint note leading the way. Right from the jump, you will notice the light and water accord running through the middle of In the Navy.

Actually, pretty nice. With the vanilla, mint, and ambergris notes; it can become easy to compare this to Eros. Sure, there’s some overlap, but they’re not the same fragrance by any means. Especially, sans citrus.

Once some of that peppermint has worn off, this becomes more about that vanilla and ambergris. Saltier and warm, with less of the initial oceanic freshness that defines the opening act.

Le Male In the Navy, isn’t a complicated scent. It’s pretty much a watery blend of vanilla and amber for the rest of the way. Basically, take three of the notes from the original and add an aquatic accord.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, I can say that this is at best, middle of the road. Maybe you’ll get a scent trail going with heavy sprays. But, past that first hour and this one is a light and intimate fragrance.

The longevity doesn’t help matters. On my skin, I get about 4.5 hours of wear. Even in that lighter state, it just doesn’t want to stick around.

Some of these Le Male flankers are pretty weak. In the Navy is one of the worst, in my experience.

That being said, it is a versatile fragrance. It’s fresh, non-offensive, and can work well from springtime through autumn in most places. I’d skip in winter, but this is at its best when it gets warm out.

Not really going to be a sexy nightlife beast. But, a daytime casual or semi-formal wear, when you want something light to put on in the heat. Not that it’s going to keep up the fight for long, but it’s a serviceable smell for that climate.

Overall Impressions of In the Navy

Overall, do I like In the Navy? Not particularly. I did think that this was one that I’d be more into, but this Le Male falls flat, and performs poorly. It sounded a lot better than it actually is.

The opening is the best part. Even then, the peppermint and oceanic accord aren’t all that amazing together. It’s a nice aroma, just nothing that really grabs my attention.

After that, In the Navy is a simplistic and linear experience, that smells okay enough. That alone would disqualify it from being a full bottle purchase for me. Throw in the fact that it only sticks around for a bit more than four hours and it’s a pass.

Most bottles that I’m seeing still floating around, aren’t heavily discounted. Seems like the stock that’s left is priced close to retail. No real value with In the Navy.

Eternity Intense by Calvin Klein

by

So, I saw that Calvin Klein had released a new fragrance, Eternity Intense, and figured that I might as well give it a try. Now, CK scents are a mixed bag for me, some smell good and perform well, while others simply don’t make the cut.

I like the original Eternity, as such I thought that this might be a welcome addition to the lineup. In this post, I want to give my impressions of this cologne, what it smells like, how it performs, and whether I think that it is worth a purchase or not.

What does Eternity Intense for Men Smell Like?

Notes: iris, vanilla, grapefruit, bergamot, orris, cedar, pepper

Click here to try from Amazon: Calvin Klein Eternity Intense Eau De Toilette for Men, 3.4 oz.

My Full Wear Review

So, right off the bat, I want to compare this to the original Eternity for Men. I like the original scent, though, it definitely isn’t my favorite by any stretch. It’s good, decently priced, but does have a bit too much of a soapy aroma to be an everyday wear for me.

But, it is a legit scent. Eternity Intense, on the other hand, I don’t really know what to make of it. It isn’t intense…like at all.

Secondly, it immediately has a heavy reliance on the iris note, whereas the older Eternity was much more lavender based. I think the floral notes are too heavily weighted in the composition.

However, I don’t want to bash the scent or give you the idea that the floral notes make this a ‘girly’ fragrance. It isn’t. The pepper note gives it a spice and a light smokiness is added to it for a masculine air.

There is also some light citrus that is reminiscent of the original but it seems really soft. I do get the black tea, for a short time, and I actually like it with this blend. Wish it stuck around for a longer period.

The bergamot and grapefruit pairing don’t even reach the same level as the old Dior Homme, which the citrus in that is also light. Here, it’s almost miniscule.

It’s somewhat like a poor man’s Dior Homme, which I love, but  this is not nearly to the same level. No real depth and the quality isn’t up to par either.

As it dries down, this gets some woodsy influence from geranium and cedar. Mostly it’s about the iris and some vanilla influence.

I actually think that it smells pretty nice and doesn’t have the same soapy quality as the original Eternity. Though, it isn’t great or all that impressive either.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, it doesn’t live up to the title. It isn’t intense and is actually a fairly soft cologne. What the hell? This isn’t the first time that I’ve run across an ‘intense’ scent that completely lacks in this department. If it’s not going to be a powerhouse, just name it something else.

Also, the longevity is really weak. You might eek out a few hours with this scent or it will be gone within an hour. The original Eternity was pretty good in this measurement but the Intense version drops the ball.

I don’t know, if I’m the only one who has had issues with Intense, but the performance is really bad.

Eternity Intense would probably fall under the casual cologne family, in my opinion. That is, if it actually lasted and performed well. It feels like a springtime wear with the floral notes.

If you get a better performance than I, this would be a pretty easy on to spray on, in a variety of situations. Not the greatest or highest quality fragrance, but it’d work well enough for most guys.

Overall Impressions of Eternity Intense

Overall, is this a buy? No. I don’t get it. It smells decent but its performance sucks. Like, there are so many other options out there, there is literally no reason for this. It doesn’t do anything well enough for me to justify a purchase.

The dry down is pretty nice and I like the black tea, to the extent I get any of it. But, it just never hits a higher level. Maybe it’d be a fine pick up for really cheap, just to see if you get some performance from it. As is, I’ll pass completely.

If you like the original Eternity, just stick with that, and skip Intense. The other Eternity flankers are at least decent to quite good, this one just completely misses the mark. Not a good entry from Calvin Klein performance wise, which makes the rest of the fragrance pointless.

Starwalker by Mont Blanc

by

Having already done a few other Mont Blanc cologne reviews (see: Individuel) and a best of list from the brand, I thought that it was time to put up a review of Starwalker.  The name is what initially had me wanting to give this a try, as I found it to be a rather unique and interesting moniker. Turns out, it is named after one of the pens which the company also produces.

Nonetheless, this was still a review that I was looking forward to doing and seeing how Starwalker stacks up versus the rest of the Mont Blanc line. Please continue below for my full impressions on how it smells, its performance, and if it is a good bet to buy.

What does Starwalker Smell Like?

starwalker

Notes include: amber, mandarin, musk, bamboo, bergamot, sandalwood, ginger, and more.

Click here to try Starwalker: Mont Blanc Starwalker Edt Spray 1.7 Oz By Mont Blanc [Misc.]

My Full Review

Starwalker isn’t one of the most well known fragrances out there. In fact, it isn’t even the most popular cologne for men by Mont Blanc (see: Legend). However, this under the radar scent is rather unique and that is one of the reasons that I wanted to give this one a closer look.

The opening of Starwalker is mostly dominated by the citrus notes, but, it isn’t a bold and overwhelming citrus like some other colognes. This one is more subdued and surrounded by woodsy and floral aromas.

Enough juiciness, but more of a fresh and somewhat sweet aroma coming through.

The wood in this case, is bamboo, which is what I think gives Starwalker its unique sort of vibe; as bamboo isn’t a frequent ingredient found in most colognes. The orange and bergamot, aren’t really allowed to become overly sharp, as the wood keeps it in check.

There is a very slight spice with nutmeg and ginger, but that’s more of a temporary experience, even if it were bolder in how each note presents.

As it dries down, this cologne smells very smooth and refined. In many citrus fragrances, you’d expect it to really come to the forefront. Instead, what you’re left with is something that is very light, clean, and beautiful.

Sandalwood, bamboo, and a muskiness floating in the background alongside the fading citrus in these latter stages. Even the sandalwood, doesn’t last for that long it seems. Musky bamboo with cedar and citrus highlights, in the end.

Quite freshly clean and low key.

It does seem to have some similarities with other citrus/woodsy fragrances out there, mainly, Versace Man Eau Fraiche. I do enjoy the Versace cologne more than Starwalker but this fragrance is really nice as well.

However, I don’t think that it smells exactly like that cologne. After all, the lemon and star fruit in Eau Fraiche, are very strong and dominate the scent. It has a cedar note, but the wood in that fragrance, aren’t nearly to the same extent as it is in Starwalker.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, Starwalker is light and non-intrusive, you’ll smell it but you won’t be enveloped in its aroma. It starts off decently strong, but quickly settles into having a 3-4 foot radius, around the wearer.

It is pretty steady, for the entirety of the wear, at least until the 4th or 5th hour.

The longevity is pretty moderate in my opinion and it’s usually good for about 4-5 hours and sometimes longer. It’s definitely not a top notch performer, in that regard. Many Mont Blanc scents, seem to have this longevity issue. Many of them are decent, but few are truly outstanding.

Starwalker isn’t one of them. But, if you can get past needing to have an all-day wear, this could be a scent that you enjoy.

It’s really a spring/summer type of fragrance, the light citrus aspect of it, draws it into that category. I like it as a versatile daily wear, during these months.

Starwalker can be worn to work, casually, or for semi-formal events. It’s a well put together scent, but not completely stuffy or anything like that. It’s attractive, rather than being super sexy and begging for attention.

Overall Impression of Starwalker

Overall, is Starwalker worth a purchase? I’d say yes, if you’re looking for something light, casual, and relatively inexpensive, then this one could be right up your alley. It’s by no means the greatest cologne on the market but it’s very good for what it is.

I like the bamboo and citrus mix. Later, the woody notes of sandalwood and cedar, give it a nice finish. There is also a great addition of ginger, in there as well, even if it is ephemeral.

The performance isn’t all that great, so, I’d say definitely pick up a discounted bottle if you can. I wouldn’t go full price for this. It’s actually not a very complex fragrance, just nice and simple with how it develops.

The style itself is pretty common, but Starwalker is a unique take on this sort of simple citrus and woods cologne. The smell is among my favorites from Montblanc, if the performance was beefed up, this would’ve been borderline great.

Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme by Chanel

by

Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme is one that I came across on and off for many years, but really haven’t had any contact with for a long while. In fact, I’ve been rediscovering for myself, a lot of the Chanel men’s and women’s fragrances. I got a hold of a sample of Eau Extreme in order to finally do a proper review of this one for the site, using the latest batch. How does it smell? When should it be worn? Is it really worth a buy?

Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme Overview

Notes include: mandarin orange, tonka bean, cypress, musk, sage, mint, sandalwood, pepper, cedar

Click here to try: ChaneI Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme Eau de Parfum Spray 1.7 Fl. OZ. / 50ML.

My Full Review

Before we get into my review, let’s see how Chanel describes it: Allure to the extreme. A powerful, dynamic and invigorating fragrance for the man who thrives on extreme sensations and pushes himself beyond his limits. An intense Eau de Parfum, like a rush of adrenaline.

Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme starts off with a fresh coolness and green quality that the original Allure Sport lacks. Eau Extreme doesn’t have the same mandarin or sea notes, but instead, goes with mint and sage as prominent players.

The citrus is definitely still there, just toned down. It’s a cypress, sage, mint, and peppery start up top. Musk is hanging around as well, but for me that really starts to show up more in the latter stages.

I have been going back and forth for years, whether I prefer the opening act of Sport or Eau Extreme. Having had samples of each in the past few months, Eau Extreme has taken the lead for me.

Some of that initial sage will then wear off and it’s more just about the mint and the cypress note. However, the tonka bean and musk notes also really begin to emerge and give this fresh scent an aromatic sweetness.

Eau Extreme does give you a different take from the original Sport, but during the dry down is when these fragrances really start to smell similar. Though, Eau Extreme strikes me as muskier and less of a sweet aroma with that spicy fresh kick.

The tonka bean really begins to take control of the wear, it feels sweeter and warmer. Together with the musk, it is super smooth and very appealing. Along with those two notes, I get the remnants of pepper and the wood accord, which it’s pretty tough to pick out just the cypress anymore.

The way things come together it does create a sweetish-powdery kind of aroma. Not like baby powder, but some people might not like the tonka bean note in this.

After coming back to this one during this past year, this reminds me of Luna Rossa Sport, in the dry down. Not the same, but that tonka bean is just so prominent.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, Eau Extreme starts out fairly strong on my skin, but not a complete beast. It actually will be pretty moderate throughout the wear, but an improvement on Allure Sport, especially compared to the newer batches.

Solid. Though, I still wish it was cranked up a bit more with its projection abilities.

On my skin, I get right about 8 hours each time I’ve worn it. Amazing? No, but very good. Again, a little more ‘extremeness’ would’ve been nice, but I can’t complain too much. Those last few hours are pretty light, which is probably one of the downsides here.

Seasonally, Eau Extreme can work pretty much whenever. I would prefer it in warmer weather and not the winter, but it’s not bad there. It is a ‘cold’ sort of scent, so, I’d rather go with something thicker and warmer in icy conditions.

To me, it’s best in the moderate range of temperatures from slightly chilly to a bit warm. At the far ends of the scale, it’s not as good.

Aside from that, Allure Sport Eau Extreme is very versatile. It can be worn by any age range, in a variety of situations. Sort of a jack of all trades and one that most guys could own as their only bottle of fragrance. It’s not really a formal fragrance, but not terrible there either.

The sportiness is there. Others in the category, seem to go a lot more dynamic or even skew the line between being an aquatic. Allure Sport Eau Extreme brings you a refined and energetic aromatic freshness.

It’s also got an attractive and mass appealing smell. Women like this and it does get complements. Maybe not a night club monster, though, it fits into the nightlife fine…just less ‘in your face’ about it.

Overall Impressions of Eau Extreme

Overall, do I like Allure Homme Sport Eau Extreme? Yes! I’m so glad I came back to this one. The long time away from it, really made me appreciate what it is. I’ve found that I like the original Allure Homme less, Allure Sport about the same, and Eau Extreme more so.

The opening freshness gives you a nice change of pace from Sport. The mint, pepper, and cypress is great. The mandarin is less intense, but adds a brightness to the cold feeling of the composition. Then, the tonka bean, musky/woody finish is super smooth and attractive, if also being a bit fuzzy/powdery.

This is an easy to wear, all around versatile sort of scent. The sillage isn’t amazing and it’s not really what I’d term extreme, but the performance is still pretty darn good. I think complaints on this front are overblown. That 6-8 hour range of the wear, isn’t strong, but it is still pretty well detectable.

Eau Extreme is one of the better Chanel fragrances for men and very useful in any guy’s collection. Very mainstream entry from their collection and easy to wear.

Again, some people are just not going to like the tonka bean note in Eau Extreme. As such, one of the Bleu de Chanel’s might be the better starter cologne from the Chanel line.

Kouros Fraicheur by YSL

by

After receiving my bottle of YSL Haute Concentration, I decided to buy another vintage Saint Laurent fragrance. This time I grabbed a bottle of 1993’s Kouros Fraicheur, a flanker to the original released in 1981. I was intrigued to get the original Kouros experience, blended into a lighter and more wearable version. Is it actually any good, though?

What does Kouros Fraicheur Smell Like?

Notes include: clove, pineapple, bergamot, ginger, orange blossom, patchouli, vetiver, amber, honey, oakmoss, incense, coriander, vanilla, tonka bean

My Full Review

The opening is full of that familiar spiciness and animalic quality found in the classic Kouros. Civet is toned down, but it is definitely there, adding an intense musk to the top of this scent.

Yet, I think they used aldehydes to a greater extent here, like I get with the last batch of Kouros I reviewed. A warm spice blended with that cold fresh airy blast.

But, the main difference with Fraicheur is the inclusion of lighter notes up top like pineapple and bergamot. This brightens up the composition with less of a massive pungent heaviness, that the 80s bottles of Kouros had.

When compared to the modern Kouros, I think this one is actually the more potent of the two, even though this was the ‘lighter’ version of the original 30 years ago.

Like Kouros, I get a good deal of coriander in the spice profile. Maybe some ginger. Most of it is going to be a mix of those spices, musk, patchouli, and what smells like neroli (not just the orange blossom alone).

Once we’re past that initial heavy mix of many different notes, things start to shift to an earthier blend. Some smokiness from incense, lots of vetiver, patchouli, and a bit of amber. This earthy smokiness is pretty well-blended with the floral notes (perhaps honey, too?) and the remaining pineapple/citrus.

I think this phase of the wear is great. The civet/aldehydes have take a back seat to these earthier notes and you start to get an unobstructed smell of the floral notes, also. It’s a mix of the cleaner and dirtier notes, but gradually becoming calmer.

At times, I really pick up on a powdery or creamier scent in this. It’s not distinct enough to be just one note, but the way everything starts combining.

While Kouros ends as a musky/floral/herbal fragrance, Fraicheur dries down woody/floral/sweet. There are hints of vanilla coming through and enough of the top pineapple influence to be noticeable if you press your nose.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this one will leave a trail and fill a room, especially in that first hour of wear. It reaches much further than the Kouros sample I reviewed a few months ago. Fraicheur doesn’t require a ton of sprays to be effective.

That being said, past the first hour, and this cologne calms down a lot. Still very noticeable, but it doesn’t radiate quite like it does when it’s in full civet, aldehydes, pineapple, and spices mode.

The longevity is also great. It seems to stick around for about 9 hours on my skin. Remember, this is a ‘freshie’ EDT, and it’s putting out this kind of power. Most vintage colognes were just built different.

Seasonally, this is actually really nice in (near) springtime and could work in summer too. Fraicheur wouldn’t feel too out of place anytime of year. But, I think it’s best in mild temperatures and above.

Fraicheur still comes across as a vintage scent. Very different from just about anything that’s come out in the past decade-plus. It will probably appeal much more to older guys or those who appreciate the classic stuff.

I think that this is an approachable way to wear the vintage Kouros. It’s not overwhelming and the animalic facets aren’t the main event here. Still, it’s a classic chypre style, that you may have to grow to love.

Overall Impressions of Kouros Fraicheur

Overall, do I like Fraicheur? Yes, I actually prefer it to Kouros itself, especially in its modern incarnation. This 1993 version has a better strength and heavier reach than the newer bottles of Kouros, while having a lighter and more appealing scent.

You can absolutely still tell that this is very much a Kouros derivative. As such, if you don’t like Kouros, I doubt that you’ll enjoy Fraicheur. I like it somewhat more, but it’s still never going to rate as a personal favorite.

That initial spray is jam packed with things going on. I think it’s nice enough at that stage. I like the pineapple and citrus editions, but I think that Kouros Fraicheur really comes into its own once you get to the earthier and floral parts of the cologne.

All in all, I think this is a great release by Yves Saint Laurent. Obviously, it’s discontinued nowadays, and can be pricey to track down. I paid about $95 for a 1.11 ounce (30 mL) bottle, which isn’t too bad. But, this is mostly going to appeal to collectors.