Fragrances

Azzaro Wanted by Night vs The Most Wanted

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Azzaro has been rolling out these new Wanted releases, over the past few years. Coming into this year, Wanted by Night has been my favorite. Then, they came out with The Most Wanted, as their 2021 entry. Does it surpass its forerunner? Which lasts longer? Smells better? Is the one that you should buy?

Tale of the Tape: Wanted by Night vs The Most Wanted

Wanted by Night

Notes include: cumin, cinnamon, lavender, tobacco, lemon, orange, cedar, cypress, patchouli, fruits

Click here to try: Azzaro Wanted by Night Eau de Parfum for Men – Mens Cologne

Read my full review: Wanted by Night

The Most Wanted

notes include: caramel, cardamom, amberwood

Click here to try: Azzaro The Most Wanted Eau de Parfum Intense | Cologne for Men 1.7 fl oz

My Full Review: The Most Wanted

Opening

Wanted by Night starts off with citrus and fruity notes up top. It uses bold spices of cumin and cinnamon to create a powerful statement, right out of the gate.

Sitting underneath that, is a tobacco note, that is decent but not really a great example. That bold spiciness is a selling point for me, really giving Night a lively start.

The Most Wanted, begins with a cardamom note for the spice. However, it is much less intense, warm, but has a sweetness to it that Wanted by Night cannot match.

A slight lemony aroma, with caramel and the bourbon vanilla coming up from the base.

Which is better? I really like the way that Wanted by Night opens up. Though, The Most Wanted is just more appealing, smoother, and doesn’t have that punch of spice. To me, it is the better of the two.

Edge: Most Wanted

Projection

Both of these fragrances have above average and even strong sillage. I don’t notice any real difference between them in this category. Neither requires all that many sprays and are pretty steady in terms of power throughout the wear.

Edge: Push

Longevity

Wanted by Night will go for 7-9 hours, on my skin. It is much more of a range bound fragrance than is Most Wanted. Sometimes, you’ll get that lower end of the spectrum.

I did expect it to go further the first few times that I tried Night, as it seems to have the right composition to make that happen. Nope, it stays very much range bound.

Meanwhile, The Most Wanted will go for right about 9 each time, give or take. I haven’t noticed it quitting at the 7 hour mark ever.

At their peaks, they’re about equal. Overall, Most Wanted has the edge.

Edge: Most Wanted

Versatility

Both fragrances are served best for younger men. More mature than a pure teenagers cologne, but not super refined and formal. I would wear either for nights out, dates, etc.

Seasonally, they are both suited for autumn and winter. However, The Most Wanted can venture a bit further into warmer weather. Not hot, mind you, but it wouldn’t be a bad option for a night in the springtime.

They’re mostly equivalents, but Most Wanted takes it slightly.

Edge: Most Wanted

Overall Scent

Which of these fragrances is better? I do like Wanted by Night, as I feel it was a big improvement to the original Wanted, and gave me something closer to a Spicebomb Extreme. The original Wanted was pretty meh, but they’ve only gotten better since.

So, while Wanted by Night was the best of the series, The Most Wanted has officially taken the title in my book. Update: Also, Most Wanted Parfum has surpassed it.

It’s a great blend of caramel and vanilla sweetness, cardamom warmth, but also a nice freshness that prevents it from being too heavy.

Really, it just smells better than Night does. The performance is a bit better, but not by too much. If you want something spicier, Night might be a better option. Heck, I wore it plenty during the winter months.

For most guys, The Most Wanted is going to be the way to go. It’s a fantastic release from Azzaro and already one of their best.

Winner: The Most Wanted

1 Million Intense by Paco Rabanne

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1 Million Intense is a fragrance that has been discontinued for a long time now, having a production run after its 2013 release. It’s one that I knew I hadn’t reviewed on the site, didn’t think I’d ever tried out (I really cannot remember), and I had the opportunity to by an old sample as part of a lot.

Better late than never, I’ve been testing out Intense to see what this one is all about. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is this Paco Rabanne, worth tracking down an older bottle?

What does 1 Million Intense Smell Like?

Notes include: saffron, orange, cardamom, rose, black pepper, cinnamon, patchouli, orris, leather, neroli, sandalwood

My Full Review

Here’s how Paco Rabanne describes it: 1 Million takes on a sensual and warm intensity through its new interpretation: a flamboyant burst of ruby mandarin orange laced with spices on a vibrantly masculine base of iris and sandalwood.

Immediately, you can tell that this is a follow up to the original 1 Million. That mandarin orange comes through plenty juicy and sweet, like in that one. The main difference is going to be the initial spicy punch.

Black pepper, cardamom, and saffron all come through. Cinnamon is there too, and it will become the dominant spice out of the bunch.

It’s rougher than the original, much less sweet, and with a bigger rose note. That, however, will reveal itself more later on.

The black pepper and saffron are pretty huge in that opening. The pepper is short lived, but that fresh saffron note sticks around, just in a declining role.

I actually compared aspects of The One Mysterious Night, to another Paco Rabanne flanker, 1 Million Cologne. However, it also applies to Intense with its spice and rose combo. Not to mention, saffron and citrus.

Once we get past that initial intensity, this one settles down into a smoother floral sort of aroma. Neroli and rose begin to take center stage, alongside them are cinnamon and saffron.

As we dry down, it gets closer to the original 1 Million. Leather which becomes apparent in the first hour, will be one of the last notes standing.

With that, will be the rose, a bit of patchouli, and cinnamon sitting on a woody base. It still has that 1 Million ‘bubble gum’ sweetness to it. Just with more depth.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Yes, 1 Million Intense lives up to it’s name. This one has a very strong sillage, can cloud up a room, leave a trail, and projects very well…in the early stages.

After that, it is still going to be strong, just not oppressively so. 4-6 feet from the skin, is about what I get out of this one.

On my skin, it seems to be in that 9.5-11+ hour range. About what I got with the old original bottles of 1 Million. It’s probably not going past 12 hours, but it’s capable of getting up there.

Seasonally, this one is also and autumn and winter wear. This might get ridiculous in the heat and I’d avoid that. But, on a moderate evening, it’s actually still nice. But, I’d stick to a chilly night.

I’ve never considered the original 1 Million to be a versatile scent. It’s always been a casual or nightlife wear for me. Something fun to wear, every so often.

Intense is along those same line, but I think it’s more mature. It’s depth, spiciness, and toned down sweetness will have a greater appeal across age ranges. Still not a formal fragrance, however.

Overall Impressions of 1 Million Intense

Overall, do I like this version of 1 Million? I do. It takes that 1 Million DNA that I like, amps up aspects, and adds others.

The opening is a spicy and intense punch, but I think that they pulled it off well. Maybe not my favorite part, but I like the transition to the next phase once things have calmed down.

The performance is fantastic. Just like how older bottles of the original were, but a touch above that. Loud (at first) and long-lasting. No complaints in that department.

I think that it’s very good, if you’re a 1 Million fan already. Those who aren’t, probably wouldn’t have their minds changed by Intense.

Then, we come to the fact that bottles are very pricey, since it’s been discontinued. I’m not so sure that it’s worth tracking down for probably 99% of people. If you’re a collector or just someone who loves these Paco Rabanne releases, then, you might be an exception.

For everyone else, I wouldn’t bother, unless you see one out in the wild for a reasonable price. It’s a good fragrance, but not an absolute must have.

Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford

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In this edition of the never-ending fragrance reviews on this site, we have yet another entry from Tom Ford. This one is entitled, Tobacco Oud, which should be a giveaway as to what type of scent you can expect. It was released in 2013. In this post, I will cover my experiences with Tobacco Oud, and determine whether or not it is worth a try.

What does Tobacco Oud Smell Like?

Notes include: tobacco, oud, amber, whiskey, vanilla, cinnamon, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, coriander, cedar, incense

Click here to try: Tom Ford Private Blend Tobacco Oud Eau De Parfum Spray 100ml/3.4oz

My Full Review

Tobacco Oud opens up with very prominent oud that is soaked in whiskey and quite resinous. The tobacco strikes my nose as being pipe tobacco, already cured with some spicy coriander and cinnamon peaking through.

The opening isn’t the best part of this Tom Ford, as it is more about the whiskey and oud over the tobacco notes. It’s smoky and a bit dirty with patchouli. I do like a good whiskey note, and this gets better, but I’m really not all that enthralled with this opening act.

As it dries down, the incense and warm resinous qualities (including benzoin) begin to be more prominent, and the oud less so. Also, the tobacco rises to the top of the heap, this is when I start to enjoy Tobacco Oud much more.

It’s a spicy oriental flavor surrounding the tobacco and the still present boozy quality of the whiskey note. Benzoin is one of my favorite resinous or balsamic notes, with the added incense smoke, you do get a whiskey cigar sort of aroma here.

Finally, the fragrance finally dries down into something that is ultimately woody and with more sweetness. The smoky quality subsides a lot and the tobacco fades, but it smells sweet and warm on the skin.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, I would say that Tobacco Oud projects itself very well for the first hour or so of wear. After that, I find that the sillage is toward the moderate end of things, not too intense but certainly not weak.

With the longevity, Tobacco Oud is a great performer, and will go over 10 hours without issue. It’s essentially like other Tom Ford fragrances of this ilk. It’s going to stick around and give you a completely developed run on your skin.

Seasonally, Tobacco Oud is an autumn/winter wear. The warmth, spices, etc. aren’t going to be too great in the heat, but do perform quite well in the cold. It’s not a casual sort of fragrance at all.

While, this is technically a unisex scent, it is actually heavily masculine to my nose. I wouldn’t want to smell this on a girlfriend ever. It’s more refined and niche, but I wouldn’t call it a sexy fragrance, somewhat attractive but that’s it.

Yet, it’s one that you can wear dressed up on a night out and with the crisp and colder air of the winter, it can absolutely stand out.

 

 

Overall Impressions of Tobacco Oud

Overall, do I like Tobacco Oud? I like aspects of it. The opening is my least favorite part, but I like the dry down more. Still, it’s never been a fragrance that is a personal favorite of mine. Whiskey, tobacco, and benzoin are highlights but not enough to truly sell me on Tobacco Oud.

Personally, I like Tobacco Oud Intense more. Even if, neither are really my style. 

This scent has strong Middle Eastern/Oriental aroma to it, I think that every high-end designer has their version of this vibe. Other people seem to like this more than I do, at least that seems to be the take online.

The performance is also very good, so, you at least get bang for your buck. It just is a niche sort of scent, it will appeal to a certain type of fragrance lover, but probably not something that the masses will adopt.

You’re going to have to be a fan of resinous, incense smoke, tobacco, oud, and herbal spices. If that’s your thing, than this is your fragrance. For me, it’s above average, but I’ve never clamored to want to wear this particular Tom Ford.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum vs. EDT Comparison

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Chanel keeps chugging along with its Bleu de Chanel line of perfumes for men. The original EDT, has been immensely popular for many years now, and show no signs of slowing down. The most recent release has been, BdC Parfum, which gives the formula a newer take.

The question is, which smells better? EDT vs. Parfum? Which lasts longer? Which is the best one to buy?

Tale of the Tape: BdC EDT vs. Parfum

Bleu de Chanel Parfum

Notes include: sandalwood, cedar, lemon, lavender, mint, bergamot, tonka bean, amber, geranium

Click here to try: BLEU DE C H A N E L PARFUM, 3.4 oz./ 100 mL

Read my Review: Bleu de Chanel Parfum

Bleu de Chanel EDT

Notes include: lemon, grapefruit, ginger, mint, pink pepper, incense, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, jasmine, and more

Click here to try: Bleu De_Chanel for Men Eau De Toilette Spray 3.4oz NEW in BOX 

Opening

BdC Parfum kicks things off with a duo of citrus notes: lemon zest and bergamot. It does take a somewhat different direction from the other Bleu fragrances, by those citrus notes being tempered by mint and the woods.

All in all, it still is pretty similar in the beginning. Later, Bleu de Chanel Parfum will become a woodier and warmer scent, with plenty of sandalwood and cedar coming into the fold.

Bleu EDT is also a citrus affair up top. The grapefruit and lemon, get blended with softer spice notes, and a smoky incense. This BdC entry, also has the mint note, but ginger is the more prominent of the two.

Which fragrance has the better start? They’re both pretty close at the start, and I do really like either of them. But, I’d say Parfum gets the slightest edge, with its added woodiness. I do, really enjoy the ginger in EDT, though.

Edge: Parfum

Projection

Sillage wise, again, they’re actually very close to one another. Neither is an absolute beast in terms of strength or projection ability.

Parfum starts off pretty strong, but goes into its moderate phase pretty shortly thereafter. EDT does the same. The opening of Parfum, I’d say, hits a higher high. But it’s so short-lived, to not be a major factor.

You’d think that Parfum, would have better sillage, as the higher concentrated fragrance. However, that’s not actually the case, in my experience with each.

Edge: Push

Longevity

Bleu de Chanel EDT will go anywhere from 5-7 hours, on my skin. It doesn’t really have that insane performance. Decent? Yes. Not elite, though.

Parfum, while not having a super powerful sillage, actually does have really good longevity. For me, it lasts over 10 hours. It just seems to continually hang around. It’s easily the winner, in this category.

Bleu de Chanel Parfum is really low key with its performance. You don’t always notice it, but you will catch whiffs of it during the day, and those around you will be able to pick it up.

Edge: Parfum

Versatility

Alright, both of them are highly versatile scents. Bleu de Chanel can work in a wide variety of situations, meaning, all of these releases under this name.

Parfum, might be more refined and formal, in some ways. But, it’s not really something that’s going to move the needle here.

The only real distinction here is that, the EDT version, is better in the heat. Parfum cannot stand up to the high heat, while the EDT can. As such, its getting the edge.

Edge: EDT

Overall Scent

For me, I don’t think you can actually go wrong with any of the choices from the Bleu de Chanel line. They are all high quality and smell wonderful. Naturally, each shares a common DNA with one another, but each stands alone as a distinct wear.

What I enjoy about the EDT version, is the fresh and clean aroma. The citrus is very nice, but I absolutely love the ginger note. It does get a smoky aroma in there as well, but the ginger led spice accord is the highlight.

This is the best of them, at handling the heat. I’d go with the EDT, if I lived in a tropical climate…possibly the EDP. Even then, the amber in that one can be wonky, in the hotter temperatures and humidity, especially.

However, when it comes down to which of these two is better, I’m going to say Bleu de Chanel Parfum. The performance is better, it has enough of an overlap with the EDT, but brings in more of a woody freshness.

The lemon zest, isn’t as intensely citrusy as the EDT version’s plain lemon, but it brings enough of that character. I like the lavender, amberwood, and sandalwood.

Actually, especially the sandalwood. To me, it is the highlight of Parfum, and what takes it to another level.

I have gone back and forth between liking the EDP or Parfum better. As of today, I usually lean EDP. In this contest? Parfum beats EDT. There are also a ton of alternatives to Bleu de Chanel that have been released, but that’s not the case yet for Parfum.

Winner: BdC Parfum

Le Male Elixir vs Le Parfum Comparison

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Le Male is the never-ending series from Jean Paul Gaultier. Some of the scents fall off by the wayside, rather quickly, while others manage to capture the public’s imagination. Two of the latter entries are Le Male Le Parfum and the newer Le Male Elixir. Both of which are very successful, but which smells better? Lasts longer? Is the better buy?

Tale of the Tape: Elixir vs. Le Parfum

Le Male Elixir

Notes include: mint, honey, lavender, tonka bean, benzoin, tobacco, vanilla

Click here to try: Le Male Elixir at Macy’s

Read my review: Elixir

Le Male Le Parfum

Notes include: cardamom, iris, vanilla, lavender, woods, spices

Click here to try: Le Male Le Parfum

My Review: Le Parfum

Opening

Elixir actually starts things off with its mint note out in a bold way, giving it a cooling fresh spiciness. This is joined by the usual Le Male lavender note.

The other major factor early is going to be from the tonka bean. Elixir also has a vanilla note, it just gets stronger as the wear moves forward. Tonka is sweet and syrupy when paired with the honey note and the fuzziness of the benzoin.

With Le Parfum, you start off with a strong cardamom note and a mix of spices. The spices are pretty generic, probably some cinnamon in there, though.

Also, the iris comes into play as the main floral note, overtaking the usual Le Male lavender note. Vanilla also begins its support role. So, it’s warm, spicy, somewhat powdery, and smooth.

Which do I prefer? Le Parfum is nice, but I like the boldness and fresh/sweet mix of Elixir more so. There’s more going on, it’s dynamic, and comes out of the gate strong.

Edge: Elixir

Projection

Elixir starts off way stronger of the two. Both will eventually moderate, but Le Parfum is lighter and doesn’t have the same reach as Elixir.

Elixir is a bold start, steady strength, that declines into a moderate.

Le Parfum is above average start, that declines into a lighter moderate.

Edge: Elixir

Longevity

While Elixir is definitely the stronger of the two, it doesn’t have as big of a lead in terms of how long it lasts. Elixir gives me 8-10.5 hours of wear

Le Parfum hits the 8-9 hour mark, but doesn’t make it past that for me.

So, another Elixir win just not as much as you might have though based on the sillage of each scent.

Edge: Elixir

Versatility

This is wear Le Parfum has an edge.

Elixir is bold, sweet, built for the colder weather, and has a youthful nightlife vibe to it. Not going to be one that most people will wear to work or formal occasions.

Le Parfum is an autumn through spring wear. Not too heavy, loud, or limited in its uses. It’s not exactly formal either, but it can fit in most day to day scenarios better than Elixir can.

Edge: Le Parfum

Overall Scent

Overall, which do I like better? While these are two of the better releases in the series, I personally prefer Elixir over Le Parfum.

I really enjoy the opening and the addition of honey and tobacco to the Le Male series. It’s sweet, warm, spicy, rich, bold, and a fun cologne to wear.

Le Parfum is nice. Vanilla, amber, and lavender in the dry down. Heavier on the lavender, with a cardamom note like Le Male Airlines. It’s very much an updated take on the original Le Male (which I’ve really like wearing lately).

If I needed one cologne to wear for a lot of different situations, I’d probably go with Le Parfum as the one I’d buy, though. It’s solid all around and can be a great pick up.

But, just based on smell alone, I like Elixir. I don’t need an all-around fragrance, myself, since I already own too many bottles of cologne as is. This is a great and more unique take on the Le Male name from Jean Paul Gaultier.

Winner: Elixir