Fragrances

Artisan Acqua by John Varvatos

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Having completed a review of Artisan by John Varvatos last month, I thought it would be a good idea to review the sample of Artisan Acqua which I tried out this week. I think that John Varvatos makes some really nice fragrances that are usually masculine and at least somewhat unique from most other popular cologne choices out there.

Does Artisan Acqua, fit the mold of the Varvatos legacy or does it fail to meet expectations? Read on to find out. Note: I am updating this review, some 4 years on, to flesh things out some more about Acqua.

What does Artisan Acqua Smell Like?

Notes include: mandarin orange, tangelo, lavender. sage, musk, coriander, and others

Click here to try: John Varvatos Artisan Acqua Cologne For Men 2.5 oz Eau De Toilette Spray

My Full Review

Artisan Acqua is a bit of a different take on the original Artisan fragrance. This one is obviously an aquatic style men’s fragrance, but more of a citric and spicy take on the genre.  My first impressions of Acqua were of how clean and fresh it is and how much it reminds me of an aftershave.

It also invokes ideas of the sea or the summertime, which is probably when it is best suited for use. Even if it doesn’t have any real marine or oceanic notes to its composition, the effect of the tangelo and citrus accord give this a watery/juicy touch.

Acqua opens up with the citrus notes (mandarin and tangelo), along with some clean herbal/floral ingredients. It’s got that aquatic scent for sure, but it also has that underlying aftershave type of cleanly smell.

It’s a bit spicy, with some great smelling earthiness, underneath that traditional summertime citrus juicy top. Mastic and the fir do give this one a resinous quality at times.

After a bit, it settles down into a greener fragrance rather than the aquatic/citrusy blend that was first introduced to my nostrils. Again, Varvatos delivers a fragrance that has the classically masculine quality to it and not to mention how cool the bottle looks.

I actually pick up a lot of sage and lavender, plus some other herbal-like notes, that I cannot really distinguish from one another. The final drydown is a lot less of the citrus juicy/watery and more of that clean woodsy and slightly green aftershave vibe.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

My qualms with this scent, like so many others before it, comes down to its longevity and projection. Artisan Acqua to me rates rather poor to mediocre in this regard. It is a softer type of fragrance and it doesn’t lend itself well to projecting outwards.

Meaning, after a little while someone would need to be extremely close in order to smell it. Not very good sillage, even during the opening act. But, at least that is fairly detectable and this one quickly becomes a skin scent for me.

Out of all the times that I have tried this fragrance, I can simply not get it to perform.

Also, it seems to last about 3-4 hours on my skin and only performs up to par during those first two. This seems to be a common theme with many Varvatos fragrances. Nice smell, meh performance.

Some of the others might get me a few more hours than this. Acqua is particularly egregious with how disappointing the performance is.

It would again, be best worn in the summer months or late springtime. It’s more of a casual sort of wear, than anything formal or built for the nightlife.

As a daily wear, it could have a place also. Assuming that you have better luck with its longevity than I do.

Overall Impressions of Artisan Acqua

Is it a bad smelling cologne? No, I really like its scent. Though, admittedly, it isn’t one which blows me away either. It is enjoyable but it’s weakness doesn’t merit its inclusion as a day to day or even special occasion fragrance for me.

What I do like about it, is that Artisan Acqua, goes in a different direction from the traditional aquatic cologne. It has the juicy citrus opening, but from the start introduces floral notes, spice, and an earthiness.

But, it can be a let down, if you were expecting something oceanic or beachy in its presentation.

The change of pace is great. Again, the performance is what was disappointing for me. If this had more intensity or staying power, it’d probably be a popular warm weather wear.

It’s ultimately more of a woodsy green and herbal blend. That initial tangelo watery aspect fades and it’s just more of an aftershave sort of smell. Nothing crazy groundbreaking, bad performance, but pleasant overall.

Vert des Bois by Tom Ford

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Getting back into the Tom Ford fragrance reviews, today, we have another one from the Private Blend collection: Vert des Bois. This is one of the offerings from the ‘Vert’ series, on fragrances which really focus on the green notes. How does this one stack up? What does Vert des Bois smell like? How long does it last? Is it worth a try?

What does Vert des Bois Smell Like?

Notes include: plum, olive leaf, poplar, anise, jasmine, mastic, and patchouli

Click here to try: TOM FORD VERT DES BOIS EAU DE PARFUM SPRAY 1.7 oz / 50 ML

My Full Review

The opening of Vert des Bois is very green, as you’d expect from the name. Poplar buds and olive leaf are joined by a distinct anise note and a healthy dose of patchouli. At the heart is a solid wood structure, but at the start, there is a sweet plum note, and a bit of the oily olive smell.

I know, it sounds weird and shouldn’t work, but it actually does. It’s listed as a part of an ouzo accord, which while I am familiar with the name, I’ve never actually had. So, I can’t really speak to its aroma.

The plum note isn’t around for too long and isn’t all that strong while it is. I thought it might play a stronger role, when I saw the ingredients list, but nope.

Vert des Bois is quite a natural smelling fragrance, and about 20 minutes into the wear, I get the emergence of a jasmine note, which takes away some of the initial spiciness of the anise. At this point, it is a smooth wood and floral combination, with that olive leaf and the patchouli.

There’s also a really great smoky note that is sitting gently in the background of this perfume, which adds another level to the rich Greek nature theme.

From there on, this Private Blend scent, stays roughly on the same path. The jasmine weakens and it becomes more wood dominant, with the poplar really taking hold. It is flanked by olive and patchouli, among some other woodsy aromas.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, the sillage on Vert des Bois, isn’t terribly strong. It strikes me as more of a moderate, but it is noticeable, and consistent throughout the wear.

That initial 30-45 minutes does create a nice enough scent trail. It’ll probably reach in the 5-8 foot range, at its peak, before retreating closer.

The longevity is really good. I got somewhere in the 8-10 hour range of wear, I kind of lost track, but it was going strong well into the evening. I wouldn’t doubt the ability to routinely get double digit hours. You do get your money’s worth in terms of the performance.

So, Vert des Bois, is very green but it doesn’t seem like it falls strictly into the spring or winter months for wear. I had it on during a warm spring day and it worked fine, without issue.

It is also definitely a unisex fragrance for most of the time, pretty much square in the middle of the spectrum, not overly manly or feminine. Then, it does dry down quite woody, and masculine. Another well blended Tom Ford scent.

Overall Impressions of Vert des Bois

Overall, do I like Vert des Bois? I do. Though, it is much more of a niche scent, than many others that I review here. It is a really unique fragrance, that captures a natural Mediterranean woods concept very well, but I’m not sure who it is for specifically.

Someone will have to be in the market specifically for what this offers, because while it does what its designed to very well, it’s not a mass appeal sort of scent. If you like green, woody, with notes you’d associate with Greece, Vert des Bois is a great choice.

The performance is great. I enjoy the mix of unique notes, which often don’t get used or at least not paired together. It’s for sure one of the more unique mainstream designer offerings.

The olive tree wood, the great anise, mastic, and even a little plum. It does become more of a traditional jasmine and woods aroma, as it dries down. But, it’s still uniquely attractive, fresh, and with a smoky background.

Not one for the masses, but a cool option to wear from Tom Ford.

Defy EDT by Calvin Klein

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Defy is a cologne release from Calvin Klein that the brand put out back in 2021. It was good to see them taking a bit of a break from just putting out Eternity flankers all of the time and starting a new line. I got a sample of this recently to finally do a proper review and see if it’s worthwhile to actually purchase.

What does Defy by Calvin Klein Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, amber, vetiver, lavender

Click here to try: Defy EDT by Calvin Klein

My Full Review

Upon first spraying Defy, I’m immediately reminded of Y EDT from YSL. Very similar style with the blue-ish aroma, bergamot, and heavy use of ambroxan. Not one to one exactly the same, but the style is very much related.

The initial citrus here is juicy and has a nice freshness. It kind of fades quickly from prominence in favor of the lavender note.

For a while, there is more of a balance between the bergamot, ambroxan, and lavender. But, the lavender will consolidate more control, as we progress. Funny enough, the ambroxan does back off and there is another round in which the bergamot comes through more on my skin.

Defy doesn’t really develop all that much though. It’s like a generic ‘blue-ish’ cologne smell mixed with that lavender. There is some vetiver in the dry down, but even that isn’t too heavy or involved.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this is light to moderate. Defy isn’t a fragrance that is going to leave a massive cloud in one’s wake or dare to take over a room. It’s just kind of middle of the road, extending out maybe to 5 feet, at its peak.

The longevity is also meh. I get about 5, maybe 5.5 hours on skin. So, if you do end up going for this one, you’ll probably have to bring the bottle with you for re-application later in the day.

Seasonally, it is good for the spring and summer. I don’t know that I’d wear it on the hottest days, though. It’s seems like a better play on moderate to warm days. I wore it out on a day where it was 65 degrees Fahrenheit and that seemed like a good spot for Defy to work in.

This cologne does lean more towards younger guys. It’s not a formal or refined kind of fragrance. Casual or a daily wear for something like school. It has enough mass appeal to grab some complements, but it’s a very basic and entry level cologne.

Not particularly going to stand out as unique, but younger guys could do a lot worse than this, as far as scent goes.

Overall Impressions of Defy EDT

Overall, do I like Defy? It’s okay. I think that it can be pleasant at times, but isn’t ever something that’s remarkable. Sure, it’s close to the original Y EDT in terms of smell and style, but that’s till better than this CK release. And, I’m not even a big fan of that one.

I don’t hate this either. If you can get it for cheap and are in your teens or twenties, this could be a very serviceable cologne for you. It smells nice enough and doesn’t have any repulsive qualities about it.

The opening is probably the highlight for me. I do like that bergamot note, when it is at its strongest. The dry down is fine, just not dynamic.

The performance isn’t great, which makes it even less appealing, even if you enjoy the smell. Five-ish or so hours, isn’t going to cut it for most guys. Especially, if this is selling a retail. I would only shop at discounters and see if they ever have this one sale. Outside of that, I probably wouldn’t even bother.

Light Blue Eau Intense Pour Homme by D&G

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I just posted my write up of the original Light Blue Pour Homme, and of course, I had to grab a decant of Light Blue Eau Intense to try out as well. This one was released back in 2017, after years of the original being a best seller and a staple of warm weather wear. How does this one stack up? Does is actually deliver intensity? Does it still smell good? Is it worth a purchase?

What Does Light Blue Eau Intense Smell Like?

Notes include: mandarin, frozen grapefruit, juniper, aquatic accord, amber woods, musk

Click here to try: Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Intense Eau de Parfum Spray for Men, 1.6 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Eau Intense starts off quite similar to the original, in many ways, but also as a standalone fragrance. The grapefruit and mandarin are still there, this time without the bergamot note, but the grapefruit is in a ‘frozen’ state.

It is chilled, bright, and sharp. Also, while the original had a peppery note, it is absent here and in the opening I pick up more of the juniper note instead.

One big difference, is the aquatic accord that is present in Eau Intense. It is slightly salty, but much less like an oceanic note, and more of like sitting by a pool with a slight chlorination.

Not to say that it smells strongly like pool water, but there is a familiar hint of that on a summer’s day. This version is chilled and refreshing and I really enjoy that aspect of the cologne.

Update: Coming back to this one, I now recognize the aquatic note to be the same one found in Living Stromboli. That one goes spicy and dry to pair with the aquatic accord, which ultimately isn’t as good as Eau Intense.

I think that it’s the way the juniper berries super fresh aroma, is interacting with the aquatic accord. It becomes heightened, and when paired with the citrus notes, creates a clean and refreshing scent.

Update: New batches seem to be the same. No degraded quality. This part of the wear smells really balanced between that grapefruit, juniper, and the aquatic notes. 

There is a feeling of slight spiciness, but not the same sharp pepper, as found in Light Blue Pour Homme. More of a blend of juniper and the emerging musk, stemming from the base of the composition.

As it dries down, more amberwood and musk, come out more and solidify the base of Eau Intense. However, the grapefruit, juniper, and aquatic notes dominate the composition throughout.

It’s a fairly linear and simplistic scent, which is to be expected for a summery aquatic such as this. Nonetheless, the citrus does tamper down a bit towards the end, and the marine notes are able to smell much more oceanic.

To me, the strength of the juniper and the woody notes really help to separate this version from the original. Everything is geared toward being super fresh, intense, while still being usable for when it gets hot.

Yes, the aquatic accord creates distinction, but the juniper really stands out to my nose. I like the grapefruit and mandarin, in the start, and they feel well blended.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, Eau Intense lives up to the name. The sillage is strong for this type of fragrance, it’s not insane or anything, but it’ll be noticeable in the 4-6 feet range around you.

The longevity is also very good, I get about 9 hours of solid wear with it on my skin, but on an old t-shirt it kept right on going along.

For me, the sillage quiets down after an hour or two. It’s not a skin scent, at that point, but feels much lighter and airy. Still, I really dig how this fragrance performs on my skin.

It’s better than all of the other Light Blue Pour Homme fragrances, in terms of performance. It not only outlasts them all, it has more consistent sillage, in the process.

Seasonally, once again it is mainly for spring/summer, but like the original it can be worn year round without any issue. It’s got that same versatility. It can be worn casually or at the office or out on a date. It’s not really limited and is a good all around cologne.

Now, I probably wouldn’t make it a go to for more formal occasions or be a daily office wear. Plus, there are better options for romantic wear, but it can cover plenty of bases otherwise.

Though, in it’s most basic form, it is best used on a warmer day. It’s refreshing, and one that I have been loving to wear casually, during this summer.

So, while it has versatility, I’m going to stick to daily wearing it during spring/summer. It’s been occupying the same role that Eternity Aqua has, for me.

Overall Scent

Overall, do I like Light Blue Eau Intense? I actually like it a lot for a summer scent. It is really great while being utterly simple and easy to love.

I am digging it more than the original Light Blue, as D&G took what was working with that, and then made it better. I like how cold and smooth this one feels versus the spicier original.

The aquatic accord and juniper really add a fresher summer vibe. Not the same spiciness and woods as the original Light Blue has.

Update: To me, this is still the best of the Light Blue Pour Homme line. The more recent releases have given it a run for the top spot, but Eau Intense just does everything better in aggregate. 

It also has better strength and staying power. I can recommend and it is a good inoffensive scent for guys who want a fragrance to cover many bases with one bottle.

The dry down, can be fairly musky and has a dose of amberwood, which some might not like. That’s probably the main drawback with this one. It can be pretty synthetic smelling, at times.

However, most people seem to have positive feelings toward Eau Intense. It’s a very good aquatic, that delivers a pleasant smell, and does a fine job at not quitting early.

Hero EDT by Burberry

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Hero is the latest Burberry line of fragrances, following the long-running Mr. Burberry series. Hero EDT was the first release, brought out back in 2021, and has enjoyed plenty of success ever since. I’ve wanted to give this one a deeper review for a while now and finally bought myself a travel size decant of it. How does Hero EDT smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a try?

What does Burberry Hero EDT Smell Like?

Notes include: cedar, bergamot, juniper, black pepper

Click here to try: Hero EDT

My Full Review

Hero EDT kicks off with its citrusy and lightly spiced aroma taking hold. The bergamot here isn’t actually massive in the composition, to where it crowds out everything else, but it does have a large role here.

The black pepper gives you that spice, but the freshness really comes from the cedar accord that is going to be the mainstay of the tail end of this cologne.

But, early, the cedar and juniper will pretty much split duties. Aromatic, but a touch sweet and quite fresh. Black pepper isn’t too highly concentrated in the blend. However, I do think that it is a great addition to the citrus and woods.

As we move along, the citrus will start to drop off, as with the pepper note. So, you get that juniper and cedar blend really working the aromatic freshness angle.

This isn’t a super complicated scent. It’s has its moments of sweetness that come through, but the deeper that you get into the wear, the drier and more of a pure woods cologne it becomes.

The very end stages is all about the cedar blend. It almost smells like there is a vetiver here, but it’s probably just how everything blends in the mix. Woody and still quite appealing, albeit much lighter.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Like the EDP, this version of Hero starts off at the higher end of moderate, in terms of how it projects off of the skin and the scent trail that it leaves behind.

It also, rather quickly becomes a lighter fragrance. Still very detectable, but it is going to be sticking closer to your person versus hitting people across the room. An hour or so of that stronger projection. It’s actually about the same as EDP in this regard. At least, I don’t notice a difference.

While EDT has about the same ability to project as does the EDP version, the longevity is a slight step back. With this Hero, I get 7-8 hours of wear, depending on the conditions of the environment that I’m in.

Honestly, it’s got pretty good staying power for a mainstream designer EDT concentration. Amazing? No, but as a daily wear, I really wouldn’t complain too much about it.

Seasonally, Hero can work in almost any climate. I would tend to keep away from the extremes (particularly heat). Though, it does have the ability to go further into deep spring and early summer than does Hero EDP.

It’s probably at its best as an autumn and early spring sort of cologne.

It’s very versatile, in terms of its use case. Probably not the most formal cologne in the world, but it can absolutely fit in as a daily wear. Younger or older guys could wear this. Plus, Hero EDT is one that has a ton of mass appeal, and probably isn’t going to offend anyone.

Overall Impressions of Hero EDT

Overall, do I like Hero? I do. I think it’s one of the better entry level designer fragrances to come out in the past few years. It’s not completely amazing, but it’s extremely wearable and versatile, for those who want something simple and/or keep only a few fragrance options in their collection.

The EDT is better than the EDP. It does have some similarities in terms of style to the newer version of Dior Homme, that was released in 2020. The Dior is slightly better, but really not by much. Burberry did well with this one.

The opening act has become very appealing to me. I wore this one out, the other night, and really loved that first 60-90 minutes of intensity. Good balance, different from the army of ‘blue’ colognes out there, and a woody scent that doesn’t smell like a pine air freshener.

Hero EDT is for sure worth checking out. Some people will love this juice, but I can’t imagine too many people hating it. It does everything well enough, without hitting an elite level