Men’s Fashion

Noir Extreme Parfum by Tom Ford

by

Noir Extreme is one of my personal favorite fragrances to wear. So, when I saw that the Parfum version was being released in 2022, I had to order a bottle for myself upon release. I was excited for a bolder and spicier remix of the original. Does it deliver? How long does it last? Is it actually worth a buy?

What does Noir Extreme Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: Shimoga ginger, cardamom, amber, tonka bean, guaiac wood, leather

Click here to try: Noir Extreme Parfum at Sephora

noir extreme parfum review

My Full Review

Here’s how Tom Ford describes it: A bold intensification of the original scent, Noir Extreme Parfum merges amber, spices, and woods, evoking the private, daring aspects of the Noir man.

Note: As of now, these are my initial thoughts of Extreme Parfum. Since it’s brand new, I’m going to be updating the page over the next week(s), as I get more time spent wearing it.

The opening of Noir Extreme Parfum has a lot going on. You get the same light citrus and neroli notes, as the original. What I do notice, is that the floral accord in this one does not have the same strength.

Those white floral notes do not play a major role in Parfum. Not that they’re massive in the original, but they are always present in that one. However, the citrus notes do have more of a role, adding a sparkling quality to the spice, and are playing off that initial ginger.

One of the main changes here, comes with the spices. The ginger note replaces the nutmeg of the original Extreme and is paired with that same cardamom note. The opening sprays are spicier, warmer, less sweet, and smoky.

The guaiac wood is also a new addition, hello smokiness. This a very rough, dry, and somewhat animalic version of the note, not a sweeter one. It’s funny that this base note, is so noticeable in the opening, but really tones down as it dries down.

So, the kulfi note is still present with the vanilla note. The vanilla is weaker in Parfum, splitting its strength with a tonka bean. This actually gives that kulfi accord a bit of a boost within the composition. A very similar effect overall, just slightly different.

The kulfi is sweet, creamy, with a pistachio finish.

Once the spices and guaiac wood has settled down, the leather note really comes out fully. That’s the biggest change with Parfum. Smooth, yes, but the smokiness and warmth doesn’t allow it to pop in the same way it does in something like Ombre Leather.

The final dry down is a leathery and spicier/warmer version of the original. It’s really a split between the remaining kulfi/tonka/vanilla notes and the leather. The amber note is noticeably weaker in the Parfum version’s dry down.

As a single note, the leather has the greatest weighting at this point.

noir extreme parfum

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The performance on the whole, is roughly the same as Extreme EDP. However, I don’t think that Parfum has the same sillage and projection as that one.

Not a huge difference, but it is a slight step back. You get that initial power from the ginger and cardamom, then, it settles into that same kind of moderate projection. Not a huge deal, but I thought that this would be a beast mode with the higher concentration.

Coming back to it again and again. It really doesn’t seem to be stronger than the original for me. I’ve tested on shirts to see how far away I can detect it and there’s almost no difference, other than EDP feels a bit more powerful.

With the EDP, I get 6-8 hours of wear from it usually. Though, with the way that I spray (heavy), it hits that 8 hour mark more often.

Parfum seems to be able to go up to 9 hours, during this initial testing. It’s a slight step back in terms of its strength, but its staying power is also slightly better on me. Again, about the same overall, but this is what I’ve gathered about it thus far.

Seasonally, Parfum is still a colder weather fragrance. It’s summer now, so, I’ve had to test it out in the air conditioning. Not ideal, but it’s fine in the temperate climate. In the heat, it gets messy like the original.

I can’t wait to give it a go in autumn and winter. That leather addition should be great.

Noir Extreme often felt like more of a unisex wear than being strictly something men would want to wear, since it’s based off the original Noir. This one, falls more so in the masculine camp, still wearable by anyone just heading toward one side of the spectrum.

Overall Impressions of Noir Extreme Parfum

Overall, do I like Noir Extreme Parfum? Yes, I do. Is it better than Noir Extreme? First impressions…not really.

These Tom Ford fragrances are really similar to each other, just with the differences that I mentioned above. I am a massive fan of the original, it’s one of my favorites ever, and it’s going to be tough to top.

I like the changes here, but there’s nothing about it that truly surpasses Extreme EDP.

Now, that’s my first impression. In a week or two, it might have flipped completely. As of this moment, Extreme Parfum is a few points below its predecessor.

Update: Parfum has grown on me more. It’s almost a tie at this point between these two fragrances for me. I will often spray both of them on at the same time. Like, two sprays of EDP for every spray of Parfum. Still, I think I still enjoy EDP more, personally.

That being said, you may prefer the added spice, smoke, and dirtiness that Parfum brings to the table. Though, if you also already have a bottle of Extreme EDP, the differences may not be enough to justify a bottle of this.

I’ve seen some people say already that these smell exactly the same. They don’t. There are distinct differences, but this also isn’t a complete re-imagining of the formula. Just expect less of that amber and white floral notes, also.

Is it worth a buy? Yes, it’s a great fragrance. If you already own one, you don’t ‘need’ the other. If you’re undecided, I might wait to be able to test this one and see if you dig the new changes versus the EDP version.

The One for Men Grey by D&G

by

Dolce & Gabbana keeps right on using The One name to introduce new fragrances, some of which actually have a relation to the original formulation. 2018’s The One Grey, is one of those cologne offerings which has a lot of overlap with the popular EDT and EDP versions of this D&G scent. But, how does it smell? Does it last long? Is it worth a try?

What does The One Grey Smell Like?

Notes include: grapefruit, coriander, cardamom, vetiver, basil, lavender, geranium, sage, patchouli, tobacco, labdanum

Click here to try: The One for Men Grey

My Full Review

The One Grey is very much a flanker of The One and I can tell that from the opening spray. The difference with Grey is, that the strength of each of the notes has been changed in order to make a lighter fragrance more friendly to warmer temperatures than The One EDP.

Grapefruit leads the way, just like the original versions. Except that it is amped up in this formulation. Spicier, fresher, with less tobacco and amber.

It is joined by cardamom, sage, basil, and coriander as the main spices. Basil is actually strong to my nose and the equal to the cardamom early on. That will change and cardamom will be the one which sticks around the longest.

The basil will fade and sage, takes its place, but doesn’t muscle out that cardamom. Coriander is a distant fourth, with a minor influence. Patchouli very briefly gives Grey an earthiness, that will pass too.

It is interesting that after the initial blast, I can pick up on that tobacco note, from the others in the series. It sits underneath almost everything, but it is there reminding you of The One EDP.

After 20 minutes or so, this is less of an intense spice and more of a lightly spiced clean freshness. Vetiver, lavender, geranium and that tobacco really help to moderate this one.

Bright citrus with a cold aromatic aroma.

The final dry down will be a balanced mix of vetiver, lavender, tobacco, and cardamom. Still a bit of a spice, but not much, and there is a smokiness that emerges. Not heavy, but I guess it’s the labdanum mixing with vetiver and some other notes.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The One Grey actually has some decent power, at least for a while. It’s not a massive fragrance, but for the first few hours you will get nice projection off of the skin.

This Dolce & Gabbana is not going to leave a scent trail behind you for all that long. However, I get a nice intimate bubble of the fragrance for most of the wear. It’s pretty average, but towards the above average end of things.

This one lasts on my skin, somewhere in the 6-7 hour range. Not one that’s going to seriously outperform (like its predecessors), but it also doesn’t just quit like EDT, either.

Seasonally, this one takes the formula of The One and makes it acceptable for the spring and summer months. I love The One EDP, but the heat is not friendly towards it. With Grey, the clean style and lightness of the notes makes it one that can take the heat.

It’s fine in more moderate early autumn weather, also. I’d skip the winter application and go with EDP, instead.

This doesn’t have that same level of sexiness or date night vibe as the EDP. This is more suited for daytime wear, good for the office, casual, or even semi-formal occasions.

It smells good. Is attractive and easy to like. You can wear it in a lot of different scenarios without issue. Very nice versatility here.

 

 

Overall Impressions of The One Grey

Overall, do I like The One Grey? I do. It’s actually one of the better flankers from this line, despite the lack of fanfare about it.

The originals, Luminous Night, and EDP Intense are all better than this. But, I like it more than Gentleman and Royal Night (slightly). It gives you a different weighting of the notes of the original, but in a more palatable form for day to day wear, in the warmer months.

Grapefruit and vetiver give it a nice and freshly clean feeling. There’s still some tobacco and the spicy notes create a dynamic aroma, without being too much to handle.

The performance is much like other entries in the series, not terrible like the original, just passable and useful for daily wear. I’ve read others say that this one is weak, that hasn’t been my experience with the travel sprayer, this one came in.

If you like the originals, this one is worth a try. You just have to know going in, that it’s not the same fragrance. Yes, the note’s are quite the same, but the style is different. A remixed version of the original, where the background players get shown more love.

Ombre Leather Parfum by Tom Ford

by

Ombre Leather Eau de Parfum is one of my favorite entries from the Tom Ford line. When the brand released a 2021 Parfum version, I was really intrigued at giving it a try. Well, I’ve been testing it out and am now ready to post my review to the site. How does it smell? Is it as good?

What does Ombre Leather Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: leather, violet leaf, jasmine, orris, cedar, tobacco

Click here to try: Ombre Leather Parfum

My Full Review

Here’s how Tom Ford describes it: OMBRÉ LEATHER PARFUM INTENSIFIES THE ORIGINAL SCENT, FUSING HEATED LEATHER FLORALS WITH WOODS–CAPTURING THE UNBRIDLED SENSUALITY OF THE AMERICAN WEST.

Well, I don’t think there’s anything any more intense about Parfum versus the EDP. Actually, that one starts and finishes with a heavier boldness.

Parfum isn’t as warm and doesn’t have that cardamom spice up top. Instead, we get a lighter and cooler aroma at first versus EDP.

The violet leaf note really sets the tone. Watery to an extent, with its greenish floral aroma, giving the leather a cleaner feeling than the somewhat earthy example of the EDP.

Cedar, jasmine, and the orris note also come into the picture. The jasmine note won’t be as prominent as in the original, but it still does a lot next to the more dominant violet leaf.

Yes, the orris note is present. It gives Parfum whiffs of a light powdery smell, but really not too heavy.

This is fresher and never has that same dryness. Cedar bolsters the base and a general woodiness just sits underneath the leather and violet leaf.

Tobacco is a newer addition to this. Again, another light note that adds some sweetness and an overall smoother experience.

In the end, it does become dominated by the leather. If EDP was an older, beat up type of leather, this is a brand new jacket.

Leather, the violet leaf/jasmine combo, and woods. That’s the dry down, on me.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

With the longevity here, I still get the same 9-11 hours total on skin, like the EDP. But, whereas that gives me 6-8 hours of strong wear before become a skin scent. Parfum will go 5-6 and then be much softer.

The performance is by no means bad, but on my skin it is actually a slight step back from the original.

Seasonally, Ombre Leather Parfum is still mostly in the autumn and winter camp. Though, it has much more of an ability to be a late springtime wear versus the original. It’s lighter style is beneficial in that environment, holding up better in the heat.

Also, while both are unisex fragrances. Parfum is much more universal in its wear-ability. The original can be earthier and more animalic. With the violet leaf here, plus the lack of intensity from the cardamom and patchouli notes of the original.

This is an attractive scent. Good for nightlife. But, just know that not everyone appreciates the smell of leather, so it isn’t going to be universally beloved.

Overall Impressions of Ombre Leather Parfum

Overall, do I like Ombre Leather Parfum? I do. It shares plenty of overlap with the original, but takes things in a bit of a different direction.

I was worried about the leather and violet leaf before trying this. It could’ve veered more into the Fahrenheit by Dior direction, which isn’t a bad scent, but not one of my favorites.

This is a cleaner representation of the leather, actually can be a bit suede like. There is some tobacco and orris which gives it a smoother finish. Not all that powdery, but there is just a hint at times.

The jasmine that I loved in the EDP is also still here. Now, it splits weight with the violet leaf, which is just isn’t as good as the original.

Ombre Leather Parfum is a lighter version of this fragrance and probably will have a greater appeal in that regard.

Personally, I don’t like the smell of this one as much as the EDP. It’s still up there, just a notch below the eau de parfum.

Performance is also very good. So, which Ombre Leather you should go with is going to boil down to your personal taste, and not anything glaringly wrong with either. Softer, semi-aquatic suede? Or heavier earthier leather?

Un Jardin Apres la Mousson by Hermes

by

Hermes’ Jardin line is one that I’m currently doing my write-ups on, after having tested them out. Today’s perfume is the release, Un Jardin Apres la Mousson (A Garden After the Monsoon). How does this one smell? When should it be worn? Is it worth a try?

What does Un Jardin Apres la Mousson Smell Like?

Notes include: ginger, ginger flower, cardamom, coriander, vetiver, pepper, citrus, water

Click here to try: Un Jardin Apres la Mousson

jardin mousson review

My Full Review

Here’s how Hermes describes it: Un Jardin après la Mousson explores unexpected aspects of India, when the monsoon gives back what the sun has taken from the earth, and drives away the scorching breath of drought.

The opening of Mousson is an interesting blend of warmth and aquatic coolness. It does really capture that rainy aftermath, where the sun is out, but you have somewhat of a break from the heat…but not necessarily to humidity.

The citrus top is light, much like a flavored water than a distinct solo lemon or orange note. This is joined by the suite of spicy notes: pepper, cardamom, coriander, and the headlining ginger.

The pepper and coriander do give it an initial sharp spiciness, that will become more subtle and really a fresh aromatic.

Once this stage has cleared, the heart is where you get much of the garden aspect of this scent. Ginger, floral notes, and a greenish quality with that rainy aquatic base.

The only real change is that it becomes less watery and get a drier aroma, with some added vetiver strength. This Hermes scent is pretty simple in its development.

Spices, watery notes, earthiness/floral, with an underlying sweetness throughout.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, Mousson definitely leans more towards the lighter side of things. With a decent amount of sprays, you’ll get an airy scent trail for about 2 hours or so.

The projection is like 4-6 feet, at its peak. Don’t go into this thinking that you’re going to get a powerhouse, that’s not this scent.

The longevity is about 5-6.5 hours, also. The back half of that is going to be a skin scent, that you’ll catch whiffs of throughout that 3 hour or so span. Then, it’ll fade away.

Seasonally, this is a spring and summer fragrance. I would want moderate temperatures at least to wear Mousson, but more of a warm weather fragrance for me.

This is indeed unisex. I don’t think that it strays too feminine, but it’d lean more that way than something traditionally masculine, in my opinion. But, it’s a safe one for anybody to use.

Casual to semi-formal wear during the daytime. It’s a fresh and invigorating sort of aroma. Not sexy. Not something built for the nightlife or romantic occasions. Just something that can be pleasant to put on for the right person.

Overall Impressions of Un Jardin Apres la Mousson

Overall, do I like Apres la Mousson? It’s fairly enjoyable, but not something I really want to wear often, nor is it my favorite from this series. I’m partial to the Monsieur Li fragrance, myself.

While I like ginger a lot as a note, it’s usually in more of a support role versus the main attraction.

I like the concept and like the other Jardin perfumes, I think that it nails a fairly naturalistic smelling impression of an Indian garden after a monsoon has ripped through. Not that I’ve encountered that personally, but on the level of imagination…this gives that impression.

The mix of water, spices, and vegetal aromas is intriguing. I think that it is worth a try. Personally, I like the opening act where the spices and watery aspect are most pronounced.

The performance is okay, in terms of longevity. However, this is more of a lighter and airy fragrance, so don’t expect much of a long lasting sillage.

If you like these Hermes scent, check Apres La Mousson out. It’s a good perfume, that may speak to you more than it did for me.

The One for Men EDP by D&G

by

The One from Dolce & Gabbana is a scent that I’ve loved the smell of for the longest time, but hated the performance. The eau de parfum version is one that I’ve encountered too, but never grabbed a full bottle of.

Well, I’ve been revisiting the entire series this year, and finally got my full bottle of The One EDP. How does it smell? Does it last any longer? Is it actually worth a try?

What does The One for Men Eau de Parfum Smell Like?

Notes include: grapefruit, basil, coriander, amber, tobacco, ginger, cardamom, orange blossom, and cedar

Click here to try: The One EDP

the one edp review

My Full Review

Here’s how D&G describes it: The One for Men Eau de Parfum is part of the iconic world of The One, offering a deeper fragrance experience for the perfume connoisseur. Masculine and magnetic, this highly intense scent is a statement of charisma and sophistication.

Ah, so a lot of this is going to be a rehash of my EDT review, as these two smell extremely similar to one another as expected.

But. there are some slight differences in the early stages, as terms of how it smells.

The grapefruit note here has more of a role to play. It starts out with a stronger burst to my nose than it does in the EDT.

The spices are about the same, with the coriander being stronger than that basil. But, I think a larger part of that grapefruit-like smell comes from a bit more of the cardamom, which can have a citrusy smell.

But, beyond just that grapefruit, the amber and the tobacco come across as more powerful in this blend. It’s deeper and richer.

Again, this is mostly the same, but I do favor the slight EDP alterations a bit more.

As far as the spices, the ginger and basil are still short-lived. With the coriander and cardamom, being bigger players on my skin.

The initial fresh spiciness will begin to pass. The One becomes smoother, warmer, and smokier.

The spices also become more of a combination versus anything distinct in how they present. At this point, it’s a amber and tobacco show with a noticeable cedar, and hints of: spices, smokiness, orange blossom, and a very light citrus.

The final dry down is basically a faint amber and tobacco. Those are the last two standing and part of the reason that this can come across as not being a super powerful cologne.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, it’s still a lighter moderate cologne at its peak. Then, it will stick close to the skin and create a 1-2 foot scent bubble.

However, when you beef up the sprays this one can absolutely create a trail for a few hours and project very well off of the skin or clothing. Somewhere in the 5-8 foot range. With the way that I spray it, described below.

The longevity with The One EDP is much better than EDT. This is a fragrance that you’ll have to spray more of versus most others, to get performance. The EDT wasn’t capable of that, but the EDP is.

So, with normal sprays, it lasts on my skin for about 4-5 hours. Not as terrible. Not great.

If I go with heavy spraying, it can go to 6+ hours, with 2-3.5 hours of good sillage. Not much beyond six hours, but some. The rest will stay closer to the skin, but it doesn’t just drop off in the same way the EDT does. Skin scent for the last 2-3 hours.

What’s heavy spraying? Like, 3-4 sprays to each side of the neck. With some more sprays elsewhere, depending on what I’m wearing. Generally, hitting that 10-15 spray range in total.

It might not be something that you can do in every situation that you want to wear a fragrance, but it can be done. Plus, this scent has gotten affordable enough that you can use more without breaking the bank.

Seasonally, still the same with the autumn and winter being the main use case. But, I will still break it out in spring and summer, if it isn’t too hot and humid. Or, if I know that I’m going to be indoors for the night.

A nightlife machine, that is sexy and confident.  You can wear it in a variety of situations, appropriate for a wide array of ages, but may not want to go completely formal with it.

Romantic wear, nightlife, casual, and semi-formal.

Overall Impressions of The One EDP

Overall, do I like The One Eau de Parfum? Yes, I love it. It’s nearly identical to the original EDT, just with better performance. Some slight changes and depth to it.

But, I loved The One EDT and the way that it smelled, so this one is a must have in my collection. Coming back to it in 2022, really recaptured my admiration for this fragrance.

It is the best of The One collection, on the whole. I also like Luminous Night, but EDP is superior to that, as well.

This is one of the mass appealing designer scents that simply knocks it out of the park. Very easy to wear, versatile, and something that consistently grabs attention…even if it is extremely popular.

The performance is improved to where 6-8+ hours is possible to achieve with more sprays. Really, I got mine 100ml (3.3 ounce) bottle for around $70 and you could probably get a 5 oz for around the same price on sale. Maybe, $80-90.

So, that’s affordable enough to use this one with more sprays than it otherwise might take with other colognes. But, the smell is worth it. The EDT no longer is, but Eau de Parfum absolutely is.

The One EDP can be a bedrock fragrance for a lot of guys who don’t want or need a huge collection. Maybe grab another cologne for the summer or one for daytime use, and you’d be set.