Libre vs Libre Le Parfum

Libre from YSL has been a major success for the brand since its release. Because of that, they have put out a ton of flanker fragrances to capitalize on the name, and offer fans a different experience with each. In this post, I want to compare the original Libre eau de parfum to the newer Le Parfum edition, to see how that match up and which is the better option of the two.


Tale of the Tape: Libre vs Le Parfum

Libre

Notes include: lavender, white musks, orange flower, vanilla, orchid

Click here to try: Libre EDP on Amazon

Read my review: Libre EDP


Libre Le Parfum

Notes include: ginger, saffron, mandarin orange, bergamot, orange blossom, lavender, vanilla, honey, tonka bean, vetiver

Click here to try: Libre Le Parfum


Opening

Libre EDP starts things off with a strong burst of the orange blossom (maybe some additional citrus fruit spritzed in) and the lavender, which will only grown more powerful. It’s soapy, somewhat musky, and has a definite creaminess throughout.

Le Parfum goes more in a citrusy direction, but not completely so. The orange blossom, honey, spice, and vanilla are all very present early. Parfum is warm and cozy.

I don’t get nearly the same amount of lavender here with Le Parfum (at least early, later, it shows up quite a good deal more on my skin) than either the original or Intense, for that matter. It also feels much thicker and syrupy like than the others in the series.

Which is better? To me, I like how each utilizes the orange blossom note. Obviously, there’s going to be a lot of overlap between these two perfumes.

Beyond those similarities, I do like the citrus and ginger notes that get used in Le Parfum. Lavender isn’t my favorite note, so, I do like how toned down it is in comparison to the EDP.

Edge: Le Parfum


Projection

Libre EDP isn’t a  fragrance that could be mistaken as weak.. I’d rate it as being at least in the upper range of moderate, if not firmly in the strong camp.

As a mainstream designer wear, it’s got plenty of projection ability and will be very noticeable in the air around you, even after the opening act.

With Libre Le Parfum, you do get a thicker/heavier fragrance and one that will leave a scent trail in your wake to a greater degree. The ability to project itself very well also stays around longer than it does with the original.

However, in terms of projection it actually is a notch below Libre Intense. But, Le Parfum is good enough to take this matchup easily.

Edge: Le Parfum


Longevity

With the original eau de parfum, I get 8-9 hours of wear on skin. Very solid and worthwhile in comparison to most designer fragrances.

Yet, it comes up short in comparison to Libre Le Parfum. With this newer flanker, I get 10-11 hours of wear, with 12 hours being very possible depending on the day.

In either case, you get great performance from this YSL line, but Le Parfum easily takes this category.

Edge: Le Parfum


Versatility

Libre EDP is the better daytime option. Le Parfum can do both day and nighttime, but it’s probably better in the evenings. Libre has the edge as a versatile daily wear.

Also, the heavier Le Parfum might well get bogged down when the temperatures heat up. It’s pretty much an autumn and winter wear. Libre isn’t exactly built for summer, but it holds up better when it’s a warm out.

Edge: Libre EDP


Overall Scent

Overall, it’s almost a clean sweep in my opinion. There’s not much edge that Libre EDP has over Le Parfum, outside of a slightly more versatile use case.

In terms of smell and performance? Libre Le Parfum is just the better perfume to my nose.

Libre EDP is an attractive fragrance. It’s much more floral. If you want a lavender and orange blossom mix, this might be the one for you. It’s got that nice daily wear vibe, soapiness, but nothing too exciting or complicated. It works well enough and is popular for a reason.

Le Parfum has better balance, performance, and greater depth than the original. The honey and vanilla combination in the dry down is great. I like the citrus and ginger combo up top. And, the orange blossom and lavender feel as if they’re blended better in this mix.

Winner: Libre Le Parfum

Jazz Club by Maison Martin Margiela

Jazz Club is one of the more popular fragrances released under the Replica banner from Maison Margiela. This one came out back in 2013. I recently bought a new sample of this perfume to test out and do a full review of. How does it smell? Does it last long? Is it actually worth a try?


What does Replica Jazz Club Smell Like?

Notes include: pink pepper, lemon, neroli, rum, tobacco, vetiver, clary sage, vanilla, styrax

Click here to try: Jazz Club Replica


My Full Review

Jazz Club opens up with its spiciness taking center stage. You do get aromatic undertones and sweetness coming through, but that pink pepper and rum are pretty prominent early on.

Mostly, I get those two notes and the tobacco at this beginning stage of the wear. Touches of citrus from lemon and neroli (more neroli), some of the clary sage, but those first three really have a hold here.

The pink pepper is the first note that will begin to falter, with vanilla and vetiver stepping up. It feels sweeter, dryer, and more tobacco heavy than the opening act.

The rum will enter this stage as a co-equal leader with the tobacco, but be much weaker by the end. For me, it really doesn’t fall off completely until the very last gasps of this fragrance’s wear time.

So, a vanilla and tobacco blend with sweetness, some incense-like smokiness, the remaining rum, and a soft ambery kind of base.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

While this can have a bold start and it is somewhat heavy and built for the colder months, I don’t find Jazz Club to be one that projects massively past the first hour.

It’s a bit above average in that regard, just not by much. The back half of the wear is going to be sitting pretty close to the skin. More intimate than a complete skin scent, though.

The longevity here, is pretty good for me. Nothing outstanding, but I can get up to about 7 hours of wear, on a good day. Going to be closer to six hours, other times.

Not a complete workhorse, but decent enough. Especially, if I’m only wearing it for a night out.

Seasonally, this one is all about the autumn and winter months. Jazz Club with its booziness and smokiness, is a cold weather staple. But, those factors also make it more of a nighttime wear, since you probably don’t want to show up to work smelling like rum.

This is a casual, going out fragrance, maybe some romantic wear. It is a scent that people generally like and will complement, it’s just not the most formal fragrance out there. However, that cozy feeling Jazz Club can generate, will be well worth the price of admission for many people.


Overall Impressions of Jazz Club

Overall, do I like Jazz Club? Yes, it’s definitely one of my favorites from Maison Margiela. Personally, By the Fireplace is my favorite and the one that I have a full bottle of.

This is a better bet for those who don’t want something as sweet as By the Fireplace. It’s still got that for sure, but it’s also not as spicy as Fireplace either. Smoky yet smooth with its tobacco note. Not overly complex, but enjoyable.

I do really like that initial burst of the rum note. I’m not too hot on the pink pepper, but it works well enough. Really, the highlight is when you get a more distributed mix of the rum and the tobacco notes working together and the emergence of vanilla.

The performance could be better, but it isn’t so terrible to make this not worth checking out. Again, I do think this is one of the better offerings from this designer, particularly for men. If it sounds interesting to you, don’t hesitate to give it a go.

Candy Gloss by Prada

Candy Gloss is a 2018 flanker of the original and quite popular Prada Candy. This perfume probably never got the same level of attention as some of the others in the series, but was that actually justified? Or is Gloss actually a hidden gem of a fragrance? I bought a sample and tested it out, to see how this Prada perfume smells and performs.


What does Prada Candy Gloss Smell Like?

Notes include: cherry, cassis, peach, rose, orange blossom, vanilla, almond, benzoin, heliotrope, musk

Click here to try: Candy Gloss from Amazon


My Full Review

Here’s how Prada describes it: Juicy, sparkling and intensely joyful: Candy Gloss is a sensual sorbet, sweet as acid cherry and solar as the orange blossom. A fruity bouquet with hints of rose and musk.

The opening is indeed sparkling, with a mix of cherry and tart fruity notes. The cherry is the star and it provides a sour type of cherry aroma in the early stage. Then, it will become more of your standard cherry smell.

In support, is the cassis and a touch of peach. Greenish, sort of tart and sour between them. I have to say, however, the combination works very well. I really enjoy the opening act.

It’ll become sweeter, powdery, creamy, and some almond bitterness. Yes, it has elements of Lost Cherry by Tom Ford. A less boozy and more playful perfume than that one.

The cherry will stick around for the duration, but it will share power. Gloss gets its floral influence, with some rose and orange blossom. Neither of which is massive, but they are present.

The heliotrope and the vanilla come through and further dampen that initial fruitiness. The middle act, is like a sweet cherry floral, with less of the cassis. This is when it has the most powdery aroma. Though, it’s never a total powder bomb.

A musky, amber, floral with cherry is how Candy Gloss ends up. Actually quite pleasant somewhat fuzzy and creamy on the edges. Sweet, and at times, I still catch a slight rose note in the mix.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The opening act is fairly bold and does have a good reach, at least for me. That projection level isn’t sustained for too long and it will become pretty middle of the road, and finally, intimate for the rest of the way.

It’s sweet, has some heaviness, and can feel a bit cloying at times too.

The longevity here, isn’t great. Not the worst, that I’ve come across, but Candy Gloss is definitely pretty mediocre. Somewhere in the 4-6 hour range, on the skin. It’s lucky to reach six hours and that back half is basically a skin scent.

Seasonally, this does have a good range of wear opportunities. It’s got enough substance to do well in the autumn and winter months. Yet, Gloss isn’t so heavy as to excluded from warmer weather wear.

Maybe not for the height of the summer, but I could for sure see this fragrance getting used in the springtime.

It’s not a formal fragrance, but not completely juvenile either. It’s attractive and has some style to it. Though, I’d say it’s mainly going to be a perfume for casual use, potentially a daily wear for those who really like cherry.


Overall Impressions of Candy Gloss

Overall, do I like this perfume? Yes, I do. It’s not incredible, but I think it’s an enjoyable cherry fragrances, and a tad better than the original Prada Candy.

The opening act is my favorite part. It’s when the perfume really seems to live up to the Candy name and gives you the boldest presentation of the cherry note. The back half, actually is a bit more of a make up sort of aroma, I guess lip gloss or even sort of a lipstick vibe.

It’s still nice and I like the scent on the whole.

The performance here, isn’t too great. I do wish that this perfume was beefed up beyond what is presented.

From the current prices that I’ve seen online (under $50 as of update), it does feel like one that’s a good enough deal to pick up. Mainly, if it actually sounds like something you’d love. I don’t think this is ever going to have a universal appeal.

From what I can tell, Candy Gloss did get discontinued by Prada. So, if you’re in the market for a bottle, this is probably your best chance to get one at a reasonable price.

New Haarlem by Bond No. 9

New Haarlem is one of the longest running of the Bond No. 9 offerings, having been released back in 2003. I recently grabbed another sample of this scent, since I hadn’t worn it in a few years. So, I’m here to post a fresh review of the perfume to see if it still holds up.


What does New Haarlem by Bond No. 9 smell like?

Notes include: lavender, bergamot, green leaves, coffee, cedar, vanilla, tonka bean, patchouli, amber

Click here to try: New Haarlem


My Full Review

I’m not usually big on lavender fragrances, but New Haarlem is one that I’ve always liked a lot. The opening act is fresh and bright with a touch of the bergamot citrus note, but it is going to be dominated by the lavender.

This scent will become richer and creamier, as we dry down. But, early it’s got itself a great aromatic vibe with its generic ‘green notes’ and light citrus touch.

The other note that will pop off, about 10 minutes in is cedar. It’s a lavender and cedar affair at this point, with the sweetness of coffee/vanilla/tonka bean already starting to come through.

Fresh woodsy, but still quite clean in how it comes across. This does have some outdoorsy touches throughout, but it isn’t a ‘dirty’ or very ‘earthy’ kind of fragrance.

At some point, the coffee will begin to take over the number one spot. Lavender doesn’t go away, it just begins to be outshined. With that, we will have more of a gourmand phase into the dry down.

Patchouli, vanilla, and tonka bean. Mainly, the vanilla will join the coffee and lavender notes, as this one takes on its creamier aspects. At times, it will indeed have a syrupy kind of smell, but it’s not too noticeable on me.

Warmer with a touch of amber to go with the vanilla and tonka bean in the finish. I do still get lavender at the end, but the coffee is really coming through on my skin.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

New Haarlem was never a complete bomb for me. It was always strong and quite substantial, but it never reached the upper echelons in terms of its power.

That being said, it projects quite well and can feel somewhat heavy in the warmer weather. Though, this fragrance will moderate itself a few hours into the wear. Still, well above average with its performance.

The longevity hasn’t taken a dip at all. I still get well into the double digits, in terms of hours that New Haarlem will last on my skin. 11-12 seems to be pretty standard for me with this one.

It’s great that even after 20+ years of being on the market, the formula hasn’t been degraded in the slightest.

Seasonally, this is mainly an autumn and winter wear, mainly. I think that it’s fine on a mild spring day, as well. Though, as I mentioned above, New Haarlem isn’t built for the warmer weather. So, I’d go with something else then.

This is indeed a unisex perfume. Heavier use of lavender does usually get associated with men’s colognes, but I have to say that this doesn’t stray too far in the masculine direction. It does seem to lean that way, but nothing that most women couldn’t pull off as well.

Maybe, just test it out, before committing to a full bottle. I will say this is more unisex than New York Nights (which also uses coffee) or R.E.M. by Ariana Grande (which uses lavender and caramel). New Haarlem is probably closer to Coffee Break by Maison Margiela, in this regard.

While not completely a formal perfume, New Haarlem does have enough style to not stick out like a sore thumb, in most scenarios. It’s got enough versatility to be a daytime wear for many people, while also being able to venture easily into the nightlife.

I personally find it to be a great wear, on a colder night, when going out to dinner or hanging out in a lounge type of environment.


Overall Impressions of New Haarlem

Overall, do I still like New Haarlem? I do. While it isn’t my absolute favorite from this brand, I do think that it is still among the best smelling perfumes from Bond No. 9.

The scent is still very good, it’s unique enough, and the performance still delivers (even at the expensive price point).

I like that aromatic freshness, the greenish aroma, and the bergamot early on. It manages to make the lavender quite lovely throughout.

Of course, I’m a fan of coffee notes in perfumes, and New Haarlem will shift in that direction in the back half. Which, is awesome. The vanilla, hints of cedar, and the like make this a pretty enjoyable experience.

I do think that this is worth trying out at the very least, if not a full buy. It’d still be one of the ones from Bond No. 9, that I’d recommend testing first, before deep diving into their full catalog of fragrances.

Guilty Elixir de Parfum Pour Femme by Gucci

Guilty Elixir de Parfum is a 2023 release from Gucci. Today, I will be reviewing the Pour Femme version of this title, after I’ve already done the men’s cologne. I grabbed samples of each to test them out and put each through its paces.

But, how does Elixir Pour Femme smell? Does this Gucci perfume actually last long? Is it even worth a try?


What does Guilty Elixir Pour Femme Smell Like?

Notes include: violet, mandora, bergamot, wisteria, rose, osmanthus, patchouli, vanilla absolute, tonka bean

Click here to try: Elixir at Nordstrom’s


My Full Wear Review

Guilty Elixir opens up with an interesting mix of citrus, violet, and osmanthus. The osmanthus acts sort of how it does in Flowerbomb, helping to create a fruitiness that has a ‘jammy’ like quality.

It definitely doesn’t come across as being too much in the direction of the orange and bergamot notes.

It is interesting that Guilty Elixir will become more floral dominant. The early stages are a cooling freshness of the wisteria, a bit spicy, and a rather powdery violet note. Yet, it never feels completely heavy on the powder on my skin.

This will shift from the initial sweetness of the opening, to something that is a tad soapier. The floral notes here do have a slight plasticky kind of aroma at times. Kind of strange, but wasn’t that noticeable throughout the wear.

That’s basically what I get for the dry down. A soapy and slightly powdery floral fragrance with a vanilla and tonka bean mix in the base. Not nearly as interesting and a lot of what I was enjoying simply fades away.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

I’d say this is above average with its sillage and projection. Not a super heavy fragrance, as it does have a bit of freshness to it. Yet, it still does have plenty of substance (vanilla, tonka bean, violet) and never feels airy.

The projection will extend pretty far in that first hour. Very noticeable to those around you. It will end up more moderate, let’s say, three to five feet from the skin for a good portion of the total wear.

The longevity here is over 8 hours on my skin. Maybe, it hits 9 hours, but doesn’t go beyond that for me. It’s fine. For the price and the ‘Elixir’ title that they use, I did expect it to venture into the double digit hour territory.

Seasonally, it’s better when it’s a bit chilly out. I think that Elixir would work in the springtime, as well, but the heat and humidity of summer would be too much. Let’s call it autumn through spring, for its range.

If you do enjoy the scent, Guilty Elixir Pour Femme does have the ability to be worn in many scenarios. Maybe not the most formal or sexiest scent out there. Though, it can work as a daily wear for many, and can venture into the nightlife as well.


Overall Impressions of Guilty Elixir Pour Femme

I’m not sure that everyone is going to like this edition. Personally, I think it’s among the better Guilty releases on the women’s side. Which may not be saying all that much, there’s maybe two or three that are quite good (Absolute followed by Intense), and the rest…maybe not.

Not my favorite, but I was pleasantly surprised by what this one had to offer.

The citrus, the wisteria, the jam-like aroma in the opening act. All very nice. That’s the highlight of the wear for me.

It does get a bit boring and uninspired in the dry down. Not nearly as sweet, more of a straightforward and smooth floral/vanilla scent.

And at the price that it’s going for, is another reason for me not to give it a full buy recommendation. Definitely one to try out, if you’re interested, but I’d check it out first.

The performance is at least good enough, even if the rest of the back half, isn’t anything too amazing. I’m not sure this will ever go on discount, but it might be worth waiting for, if you absolutely must have Elixir in your collection.