Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Grand Soir is another of the most popular fragrances from the Maison Francis Kurkdjian line of scents. It is a well-known and loved amber perfume that tops many people’s wish lists. But, how does it actually stack up. I grabbed samples of this scent to test it out and put it through its paces. How does it smell? Is it long lasting? Is it worth a try?


What does Grand Soir Smell Like?

Notes include: amber, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, labdanum

Click here to try: Grand Soir from Saks


My Full Review

Grand Soir opens up with its amber note in charge and quite powerful. It’s a very smooth amber note, with a nice spice adding to its overall appeal. Personally, I can pick up a slight smokiness in there at times, also.

Beyond that, there is a bit of vanilla early on and the sort of medicinal smelling benzoin creeping in as well. It’s super warm and enveloping and I do like that spiciness.

As it moves along, you will get more of the same, just with less of the spice. Then, the tonka bean comes in to join the vanilla. It actually comes off powdery at times and also creamy for other parts. Interesting.

It becomes very rich and has a full-bodied presence. Though, it will become lighter as it moves along. Also, the perfume is pretty linear for most of the wear. It’s an amber and vanilla show. It’s creamy buttery smooth and sweet, but that’s pretty much what I get here.


Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

The sillage of Grand Soir starts off strong and it can project itself pretty far. But, it does really lighten up, and will hang 2-3 feet from the skin for much of the wear. But, when you first apply it, you will get a heavy dose of the fragrance.

The good news is, that even in its lighter state, Grand Soir will hang around for a long time. Well into the double digit hours, so, expect 12+ hours of wear depending on the climate and circumstance you’re wearing it in.

The longevity is fantastic with this one.

Seasonally, you’re probably going to have to stick to autumn and winter with this Francis Kurkdjian scent. Maybe, further into the year, if you have particularly cold springs. Though, don’t expect this to be a summertime favorite.

While it is a unisex fragrance, it kind of does lean more masculine. Not a crazy ‘manly’ sort of perfume, but it could be something to take into account, if you’re looking for something traditionally feminine. That being said, it’s not too much of an issue, as I don’t think it’s all that masculine…just leans that way.


Overall Impressions of Grand Soir

Overall, do I like Grand Soir? I do. It’s a very nice fragrance, but not one that I want to necessarily own a bottle of.

The smell itself is great, especially if you’re into amber perfumes. It’s soft, warm, and has a fantastic resinous quality to it. This is a fine example of how to use amber in a scent.

Early on, you get some spice. Then, comes the powdery and creamy parts of the wear. But, overall it’s a pretty linear experience. Frankly, I get bored with it after a while and it’s not my favorite.

The performance is really good, particularly in how long it lasts. It isn’t a sillage bomb, if you’re expecting that. But for the high price, it certainly backs it up.

There’s nothing really too much to complain about here. I get why people really enjoy it, but it’s not something that I want to wear all that much.

This is one scent that has become popular, but it isn’t one that you should blind buy. Not only because of the price, but also because the aroma, may really not be what you’re looking for. If you want to experience Grand Soir, I’d get a sample before committing, unless you are a bonafide amber-lover.

Baccarat Rouge 540 vs Extrait

Baccarat Rouge has become a ridiculously popular perfume since its release back in 2015. That hype level has gone into the stratosphere, since BR 540 Extrait was brought to market. Now, there is an even greater concentrate and at a much higher price point. But, the question is, which is actually better? Is Extrait worth the high cost? Which smells better? What’s the difference? Which lasts longer?


Tale of the Tape: BR 540 vs. Extrait 

Baccarat Rouge 540

Notes include: saffron, ambergris, cedar, fir resin, jasmine

Click here to try: Buy from Saks


Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait

Notes include: almond, saffron, cedar, jasmine, musk, ambergris

Click here to try: Buy from Saks Fifth Avenue

Read my review: BR 540 Extrait


Opening

Baccarat Rouge 540 kicks things off with the saffron and jasmine note splitting duties. It’s clean, sweet, and has that lemony tinge to it from the hedione (jasmine).

Underneath that, is the amber, fir and cedar notes giving this a fresh and resinous quality early on…which will become greater as it develops.

BR 540 EDP has a lighter airy fluffiness to it, that I don’t really get with Extrait.

BR 540 Extrait opens up with a bittersweet mix of the almond and saffron note. It’s smooth with a slight metallic aroma from the saffron, but the almond is the stronger of the two.

It’s going to dominate early on and is what really helps to set Extrait apart from the original EDP.

The jasmine is weaker early on, but you’ll get more of the watery sweetness later in the wear. To me, this one has less of the sort of ‘cotton candy’ aroma, it’s more of an impression that hangs in the air. Also, it smells spicier underneath.

Which is better?

It’s a pretty close contest, but I think that Extrait gets the edge for me. I don’t believe that it is leaps and bounds better. However, I enjoy the almond and heavier saffron up top versus the original. That one is great too, just Extrait is a bit better.

Edge: Extrait


Projection

I don’t find either of these to be absolute monsters in terms of their sillage. I think that they both open up strong, but quickly settle, closer to the skin.

In the case of BR 540 EDP, it goes from powerful, to sitting in the 2-3 foot range with its projection within an hour. But, it does stick around, just as a softer scent bubble.

Extrait, starts even stronger, but it will end up being a lighter moderate scent. Of course, you could just go crazy with the sprays and really make it pop for much longer.

Extrait wins this category, since it has the higher peak and keeps a higher level for the duration.

Edge: Extrait


Longevity

I will say, that both of these perfumes have fantastic longevity. With EDP, it’s usually a wider range of outcomes, on my skin. Usually, around 10 hours.

Though, that could be 8 and other times it hangs around for 12. It’s never been bad, Baccarat Rouge can sometimes just fall off a bit earlier for some reason.

With Extrait, the longevity is amazing. I’m not sure exactly when it finally fades away, but I’ve routinely detected on my skin 12-14 hours later.

At some point, you’ve got to shower, but this version of BR 540 will probably still be there when you do. The performance is extreme.

Edge: Extrait


Versatility

There’s not really a difference to me between them. They are both very versatile, but best used outside of the summer heat. They can work for folks young or old. Can venture into the nightlife and will get complements in the daytime, as well.

While each is unisex, they both do lean feminine. Though, plenty of men can and will be fine wearing a Baccarat Rouge perfume.

This one is a tie.

Edge: Push


Overall Scent

I’m not someone who is a massive fan of either of these fragrances. The hype really got insane for the past few years.

I like them both a lot, but you don’t absolutely need to have either of them. So, I can be fairly unbiased between these perfumes, because I don’t have a desire to own a full bottle of either.

I like Baccarat Rouge EDP. It’s sweet, has a lovely airy aroma that catches your nose, with a smooth and candy-like aroma without being a hyper-sugary mess. The amber and resin from the fir is great, I love saffron, and the cedar freshness helps tie it all together.

Performance wise, you can’t go wrong with the standard EDP.

That being said, Extrait catches my attention more. I enjoy the almond and the greater weighting of the saffron early on. It being my favorite note in the blend, it’s something that I really appreciated.

Extrait de Parfum is more substantial, has a better use of woods, and is somehow thicker without the same level of resinous qualities. The dry down between the two is pretty close in terms of how they smell.

It’s just that Extrait does a better job with its performance and the mix is slightly different at that stage.

If I had to buy one, I’d pony up the money for Extrait. If you’ve never smelled either, I would acquire samples of each before committing to a full bottle, as it is a substantial investment. Or even consider, finding a cheaper smell-a-like version.

Winner: Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum