By Designer

Ultra Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

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In today’s post, I am going to be taking a closer look at a cologne by Jean Paul Gaultier called, Ultra Male. This is a flanker fragrance to the now classic, Le Male. Ultra Male was released in 2015 and occupies a similar bottle to the original JPG scent. What does it smell like? How does it perform? When should it be worn? Is it better than Le Male? Please continue reading below for my impressions after a few wears.

Notes include: vanilla, pear, amber, woods, cinnamon, cumin, sage, lavender, mint

Click here to try: Jean Paul Gaultier Ultra Male for Men Intense Spray, Eau de Toilette, 4.2 Ounce

What does Ultra Male by JPG Smell Like?

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Ultra Male is a meeting of the pear, vanilla, cinnamon, mint, and citrus notes that produces a candy-like sweetness that is akin to bubble gum. Now, this may not sound appealing for some folks but it quickly settles on my skin into something that is warm and smooth, and a scent that I find very appealing.

The pear note is the main attraction early on. Mint and cinnamon surround it and provide the composition with a definite spiciness. Ultra Male is intense straight out of the bottle, with a very captivating aroma.

Next up, the lavender and vanilla begin to move in. Lavender and pear share the spotlight, with an increasingly strong vanilla coming in more later.

The most noticeable difference between this and the famous, Le Male, is the complete lack of that powdery aroma that was so prevalent in that JPG cologne.

While there is a lot of overlap between these two scents, the strength of each note is different, and the inclusion of the pear makes Ultra Male a standalone scent from its progenitor.

I’m just going to say it right now, I am enjoying Ultra Male more than Le Male, which I also liked a lot.

During the dry down, it turns into a vanilla, lavender, and amber laden fragrance on my skin. It at times, reminds me of a more youthful and sweeter Luna Rossa Sport.

Not saying its the same, but the lavender and vanilla combo, are obviously going to deliver at least somewhat similar results.

Ultra Male is a super fresh and sweet kind of scent that is going to be a nice addition to any night life fragrance collection.

There is a slight spiciness provided by the cinnamon note which prevents the cologne from become a complete mess and that is further bolstered by the mint note, which seems to be more in the background than it was in Le Male.

Ultra Male sort of falls into the same category as a fragrance like, 1 Million, does. Smooth, candy-like sweetness, with enough staying power to be a night club favorite.

Sillage, Longevity, Versatility

Projection wise, I would rate it as a very strong starter that fades into something much more moderate. While it is in the same ‘family’, so to speak as 1 Million, it doesn’t have the same loud and bold projection.

It certainly isn’t weak and with enough sprays it is capable of overpowering, but with my 1-3 spray tests, Ultra Male was perfectly tolerable.

Update: with further wear, once I got a full bottle, this does project itself a lot more than you can tell. People will notice, so, go light when inside enclosed areas. It’s actually kind of massive with how it projects. I do have a bottle of the initial release, so, I don’t know if Ultra got weakened over the years.

It does have great longevity on my skin, 9-ish hours, maybe a little longer on some wears (depending on the weather or other environmental circumstances). It’s pretty excellent in that regard.

Update: I do get double digit hours of wear, fairly regularly with Ultra Male. It does depend greatly on the climate, see below.

Cold weather scent. Like Le Male, Ultra Male would turn to crap in the heat, so if your climate is warm year round, this probably isn’t the best bet.

On the other hand, if you plan on wearing it at night, I have done so effectively when the temperature was in the mid-70s Fahrenheit but it thrives in the cold.

Really, I would not wear this at all when it is hot out. It becomes a pretty big mess, so if you’re going to have this, also have a spring/summer scent to wear. In the cold, it is at its peak and can be a great wear.

You could wear this as a daytime scent, as it isn’t too loud (with light sprays), but I love it for nights out and party-type atmospheres. It’s an attractive, almost unisex kind of fragrance, with a sweet sexiness that women seem to enjoy.

I’ve mostly been wearing this on winter evenings out, just casually from time to time, and around the house. I’m not sure that I’d try to make this a daily wear. Especially for guys, who work in a professional setting. That’s not what this cologne does.

Ultra Male can come across as very sweet and has a youthful party vibe. I am older than the target demo of this cologne and like it a lot. Yet, I find myself not always wanting to indulge in it, with its candy-like aroma.

Overall Impressions of Ultra Male

Overall, would I recommend Ultra Male as a buy? Yes, provided you like this kind of scent. Some guys don’t like the sweets and if that’s you, pass on this cologne.

Otherwise, I find this to be a fun wear, and prefer it to the original Le Male…it just strikes me as better on the whole.  This is another great entry from Jean Paul Gaultier.

The performance is great and the smell is really nice. It can come across as unisex, at times, but for the nightlife it’s a great pick up. The uses for this can be limited, outside of that. So, one will need to assess exactly what you’re wanting it for.

Update: The longer that I’ve had this, the less I wear it. The pear note doesn’t really do it for me anymore and it’s super sweet/spicy mix, isn’t something that I always want to wear. It’s still something for younger guys to wear and not a fragrance that’s going to be a daily wear for most people.

I definitely don’t dislike it, but it’s more something that I wear on occasion. Ultra Male is still one of the better releases in the series, which has produced a lot of just ‘okay’ colognes over the years.

The One Luminous Night by D&G

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The One is a series of fragrances that has spun of a bunch of flankers, including the ‘Night’ special editions. Luminous Night released in 2021, is one that has gotten a lot of attention out of those three, to the point where finding a bottle is an expensive proposition. Is it actually worth it? How does it smell? Does it last long?

What does The One Luminous Night Smell Like?

Notes include: bergamot, basil, black pepper, dates, amber, incense, sage, geranium, sandalwood

luminous night review

My Full Review

Here’s how D&G describes it: Inspired by the captivating contrast between the deep blue night sky and the blazing gold stars set within it, The One Luminous Night conjures the magic and splendour of a star-studded Arabian night.

When I first saw the notes, bottle, and concept of The One Luminous Night I was excited to try it. The blue bottle looks great.

However, since it was a limited edition and not sold in the US, I kind of forgot about it for a while.

Forgot to the point that bottles became scarce, and I had to secure a decant of it for testing. Knowing that, I would probably plop down the near $200 for a bottle off of eBay if I loved the fragrance.

Upon spraying, I do get the contrast between cool and the warm notes. The early part of this scent is fresh with the sweetness of the dates lurking underneath.

Sage and basil are the stronger of the spicy notes to be. I don’t get all that much black pepper and only a faint peak of the geranium note. The pepper is mostly around for the first 15 minutes, then is pretty much gone.

It is interesting, the style here reminds me of one of the L’Homme Ideal flankers, even while they don’t smell the same. Smokiness, warmth, spice, with a nice fruit providing a sweet heart.

The initial freshness will subside. Sage sticks around, but it will fall down the chain of importance.

Dates, amber, incense, and wood. Expect that to be the main event for basically the rest of the wear. The dates are nice, more of a dried fruit aroma, than anything hyper-sweet or juicy.

Slightly smoky dates sitting in a pool of amber is how I would describe this one. In the middle act, the geranium while still not heavy, does pick up somewhat. Once that pepper is out of the way, I can get more of it.

Update: Now that I have a full sized bottle of Luminous Night, I’ve noticed that it does present somewhat differently, on any given wear. Sometimes, the sage is massive. Other times, this is much more of the warm and sweet aroma led by the date note. When the sage is super heavy, I enjoy this less.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Sillage wise, this isn’t a powerhouse. Actually pretty moderate, at its height and then more intimate, without being a complete skin scent. The opening can indeed pack a punch, however. For me, that is a pretty short-lived experience.

The projection runs about 2-4 feet off of the skin for much of the wear. I do notice it on me throughout, just not a complete monster.

It lasts somewhere in the 7-8 hour range. Again, it’s not a strong fragrance, but it does stick around. It’s one of the better The One fragrances, in terms of performance. Which, isn’t one of the series’ strong suits.

Seasonally, this is best in autumn and winter. But, as a nighttime fragrance, if it isn’t too hot and sticky out…you can wear it whenever. Definitely avoid wearing Luminous Night, during the day in spring and summer, especially. Can be a pretty cloying cologne, in that situation.

It’s very attractive and well put together. Semi formal or even formal social situations would be fine. It can absolutely be worn dressed up, while still having its sexy side as a date night go to.

But, that being said, I do prefer this as more of a casual or ‘going out’ nighttime fragrance. The sweetness and warmth feels more in line with that versus being a pure formal play.

Overall Impressions of Luminous Night

Overall, do I like Luminous Night? I do enjoy it. I think that is smells very good, but it isn’t a total love for me. I don’t know if I’m going to get a full bottle for myself (I might still), since that would run me $200 or so.

Update: I did get a bottle, once I found one for around $100. Still sort of feel like I overpaid, but wasn’t too terrible of a deal.

That being the case, it is one of the best The One releases. Better performing than the EDT, even if I enjoy the smell of that a bit more. Plus, I do have a full EDP bottle too.

I actually really like that opening act, with its burst of freshness to contrast against the warmth of the rest of the wear. Basil, pepper, sage, and geranium with a bright bergamot is great. The date note is also very attractive.

I really like everything about this release. I’m just not floored by it. When I compare it to another expensive release I purchased a full bottle of, Noir Extreme, it just doesn’t hit me on the same level.

Update: That sage note, can be somewhat annoying depending on how it shows up on any given day. Sometimes, it just smells overwhelming versus the date and even other spicier ingredients.

I recommend it. If this were a more available scent, I’d probably tell everyone that it’s one to pick up. At $200? Maybe not for everyone. But, it also is a safe blind buy based on the smell and performance alone.

Scarcity made this one go from a sure thing, to something you may want to track down decants of before committing to the entire thing.

Wall Street by Bond No. 9

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I’ve got a ton of fragrance reviews that I need to finish writing up and a lot of samples that still need to be tested out. So, over the next month, there should be a whole slew of new reviews posted up on the site. Today, I’m going to delve into a unisex offering from Bond No. 9 New York, Wall Street. This scent has been a pretty popular one over the past decade plus, but is it actually worth a purchase?

What does Bond No. 9 Wall Street Smell Like?

Notes include: cucumber, seaweed, lavender, lemon, caraway, vetiver, leather, ambergris, orange, musk, and more

Click here to try: Wall Street By Bond No. 9 Eau De Parfum Spray, 3.3 Ounce

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Wall Street is a heavily aquatic citrus scent that is reminiscent of one of the Bvlgari Avqa line of fragrances (I can’t remember which). It is a strong blast of cucumber and lemon mixed with that pungent and salty seaweed note that conjures up memories of the shore.

I’m not sure what any of this has to do with Wall Street, the actual location, or the investment banking style. I guess it is technically close to the water. Would’ve been much more appropriate for one of their NY beach fragrances.

This fragrance can be quite divisive. Some people really love these types of aquatics and the seaweed note is part of the appeal.  For me, while I like going to the beach, I don’t want to smell like sea life.

Apparently, other people get less of this type of aquatic smell and Wall Street comes across as fruiter and salty. I do get the saltiness, but seaweed is a massive note in this to my nose.

As it dries down, however, more of the vetiver and lavender emerge which gives Wall Street a nice undertone to it, that is somewhat enjoyable to my nose. However, that gets offset by the bitter orange note (my least favorite citrus scent).

I was expecting more leather out of this one, when I saw it in the notes list, but honestly, there’s not too much here.

Ultimately, the cucumber dominates and the seaweed note becomes less noticeable as it wears on. This mixes with the citrus notes and that is aroma that will sit on the skin for the rest of the wear.

Cucumber with citrus, lavender, vetiver, and a musky finish? That part is a lot better than the super oceanic opening act.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, I found Wall Street to be strong. It wasn’t insane or anything but it’s one that you’ll definitely notice is there throughout the day. The opening few minutes can be fairly intense, but this Bond fragrance, does settle down a bit.

With the longevity, it does last all day. So, if this is one that you enjoy the smell of, you do get great performance at this rather high price point. It can hit double digit hours, quite easily.

Due to Wall Street’s aquatic nature, I would put this down as a warm weather scent. It’s not sexy or something that would appeal in the nightlife scene.

I’d call it a casual fragrance, maybe for business wear. It is a unisex scent and as such has a bit of a feminine air to it. The cucumber note is quite like a crisp body lotion. Wall Street has a very watery and fresh vibe

Overall Impressions of Wall Street

Overall, would I recommend Wall Street? I personally don’t enjoy it. That being said, there are a lot of people that do, and this is a best seller for Bond No. 9.

I like the latter stages, more so than the early and heavy punch it can pack. Lavender and vetiver, made it more tolerable to me, when I wore it. Cucumber is a note that I can take a liking too, not my favorite but not terrible. I do mostly hate seaweed, though.

The performance aspect is great, but it’s a fragrance that definitely needs to be tried out to see, how you react to wearing it. If you’re not a fan of cucumber or seaweed, I’d say stay far away from this. If you like oceanic scents, this might be one for you.

It’s really a niche perfume for the warmer months. If the idea of seaweed doesn’t sound appealing to you, I would for sure go with something else, from this designer. This is a very unique take on this style of fragrance, as I can’t think of another one that smells quite like Wall Street.

Le Beau Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

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I’ve got a ton of samples that I need to do write ups and reviews on. One of these samples, if the subject of today’s post, Le Beau Male. This is a flanker fragrance from Jean Paul Gaultier of the classic, ‘Le Male’. It was released in 2013. How does this one stack up? What does it smell like? Is it worth a buy?

What does Le Beau Male by JPG Smell Like?

Notes include: mint, lavender, wormwood, orange blossom, musk, sage

Click here to try: Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau Male Spray, 6.8 Ounce

My Full Review

Jean Paul Gaultier has come out with more than a few flankers and special editions of the original ‘Le Male’ fragrance. This entry called, Le Beau Male, starts off with a very crisp and cool mint note. Actually, it takes a minute to really settle in, much like I experienced with Guerlain’s L’Eau Boisee.

Le Beau Male is wholly different from the original. Sure, it shares a few of the same notes but this is nothing like Le Male or Ultra Male. The mint note is the dominant player throughout, but the wormwood top note gives it a slightly herbal feel, which lends itself to Le Beau Male’s vibrant ‘greeness’.

Wormwood is used in absinthe, so, if you’re familiar with that aroma; it’s essentially what you’re getting with this JPG cologne. However, it is paired mostly with the sage note, at its peak.

It’s much less spicy than the other scents in this line. The mint and the sage are the only real spice to it and it’s further calmed by the lavender.

Overall, the composition is actually quite floral/herbal but it doesn’t ever take on a feminine quality. The orange blossom is a subtle touch and reminds me of L’Homme Intense.

The end of the wear is an herbal, floral, and somewhat musky finish. The musk is present mostly at this stage, but it doesn’t ever take on too much of a major role here. At least, on my skin it doesn’t.

Mint, wormwood, lavender, orange blossom, and musk; at varying degrees of strength.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

Projection wise, I like the way it starts. It’s strong but it quickly becomes a skin scent, within a few hours, which is disappointing. It’s not entirely weak, but it has so much potential, if it only had that power behind it.

At first, I thought that I was getting something that sits in between Le Male and Ultra Male, in terms of sillage. It eventually drops below the original Le Male and doesn’t enjoy that long of a peak.

The longevity isn’t that great either, somewhere in the 5-7 hour range, and most of that is spent as a skin scent. Is that terrible? No, if it could maintain its sillage, I wouldn’t be disappointed by it at all really. Especially, if I could pick up a super cheap bottle.

The really cold mint seems like it’d be best on a warm day, just to break up the usual vibe of citrus and aquatic fragrances during that time. It’d be good as a casual scent in this scenario.

If it had better performance, I’d like to wear it as a summer evening cologne, because I really like the mint note here. Also, with the floral aspects it would sit well, in the humid night air.

I suppose, it still could be used then. However, I would probably still use it on those warm days, when I want something simple and non-offensive.

This one does skew younger and is a nice option for guys of high school and college age. Youthful vibe while not being completely immature.

Overall Impressions of Le Beau Male

Overall, would I recommend Le Beau Male? On clearance, maybe. I actually enjoy the aroma and even though it has little to do with the original Le Male, I think it could stand on it’s own. This is one of those where I’m let down by its performance, but like everything else about it.

The mint and orange blossom are the highlights for me. Wormwood adds some interesting elements to this one, but it never hits an absolute level of greatness. It’s all fine and quite wearable for what it is. Good freshie with enough substance to be useable.

I enjoy the Le Male lineup, so, Beau isn’t going to be a complete mess. It’s a cologne with plenty of potential, but doesn’t fully live up to it.

Update: Other options from this line, like Airlines are better. But for warmer weather options this is probably a better pick than In the Navy.

Though, Le Beau came out in 2013, and isn’t readily available in most places. So, it probably won’t be worth it for most guys nowadays. It’s a good scent, but was never going to be the best Jean Paul Gaultier cologne.

It’s not an amazing scent, but it is damn good and can be a nice change of pace for the summer. If you can get a cheap bottle, more sprays should help overcome the weakness, and make it a solid addition to a fragrance collection.

Code Profumo by Giorgio Armani

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I was quite pumped to get a new batch of sample fragrances to try out recently. I hadn’t heard anything about Armani Code Profumo and so had no expectations about it, nor even knew what notes made up this scent. I just figured that since it was from Giorgio Armani, that it might be a decent buy.

In this post, I want to give my impressions of this cologne, how it performs, when it should be worn, and whether or not it is worth picking up a bottle. Update: This originally came out in 2016, I have since added more to the review, as I gained more experience with this scent.

What does Armani Code Profumo Smell Like?

armani code profumo

Notes include: leather, amber, tonka bean, cardamom, lavender, and nutmeg

My Full Wear Review

The opening of Code Profumo had me hooked after the initial spray. I like fragrances that are sweet, warm, and smooth and this one delivers on that amazingly well. To me, it is some close relative to The One by Dolce and Gabbana, 1 Million by Paco Rabanne, or even Versace Eros (the tonka bean). Plus, an added dash of Kouros Body.

The One is one of my favorite smelling colognes, it just has a problem with longevity on my skin, and it happens to share the amber and cardamom notes with Profumo.

The opening is mostly a mix of the warm amber note and the creaminess of the tonka bean. It’s sweet and somewhat candy-like in it’s presentation, sort of like 1 Million, without that grape bubblegum kind of smell that the Paco Rabanne cologne opens with.

There are two fruit notes here: mandarin orange and apple. I don’t personally pick up any apple, but the orange is there, it’s just subdued and not the usual bright citrus that you’d be used to.

As I’ve spent more time with Profumo, I’ve noticed that the sweetness here takes on a soda-like fizziness, it’s like a cream soda type of smell.

It kind of makes sense when you think about tonka bean, nutmeg, and cardamom blending together and how that would play itself out. It’s much warmer, less fruity at the top, and it doesn’t have the same amount of leather as the original Code.

The nutmeg note gives it a bit of spice which is smoothed out by the masculine leather. This is a new release for 2016 from Armani and I really think they hit a home run for people like me who love this kind of scent.

The opening is so sweet that it might scare some folks off, but the dry down is really great. Amber, leather, and tonka bean; these notes sit perfectly in the night air on a cold winter’s evening. Warm, enveloping, and inviting.

Sillage, Longevity, and Versatility

It isn’t a very heavy fragrance but it does project itself pretty darn well. It isn’t a complete beast in that regard, but it does its job and doesn’t quit.

Code Profumo is more of a moderate fragrance that hangs around you, but won’t blow the doors off of people. It’s a cozy and sweet warmth, which is quite nice on the colder evenings.

Longevity is yet another plus sign for Code Profumo. This is an all day wear, that will hold long enough for any occasion that you may need to wear it. Seriously, the longevity is great, I could wear this on night’s out and hit double digit hours with it still going on my skin.

Update: Yep, this is a 10+ hour wear for me. Always got great performance out of Profumo.

I’d say this is a distinctly Fall/Winter fragrance and one that is great for nights out on the town. Code Profumo is a dark and sexy type of cologne that can also be worn on casual occasions and not feel out of place.

It doesn’t have the same bold almost in your face feeling that 1 Million can have and it isn’t weak like The One is. I like to wear it in a more dressed up situation but if I’m also out at a bar or something, in a relaxed atmosphere, Profumo gets the job done.

Overall Impressions of Code Profumo

Overall, would I rate this cologne a buy? Absolutely. I’m totally digging this scent right now, it’s great. Now, will every guy like it? Probably not, but most will. Like I said, if you don’t like warm/sweet fragrances, Code Profumo isn’t for you.

Update: Code Absolu has now been released and it is a slightly better version. You wouldn’t need both of them, so, I’d pick Absolu over Profumo, now.

Update 2: This one has been discontinued, so, you’ll have to find it a discounters nowadays. Still very much worth it, assuming it isn’t insanely priced.

Also, if you want something for the warmer months of the year, go with something else. However, if you need a new cologne for those crisp days and nights during autumn/winter, this should do the trick.

It’s got a great composition and performs super well. Code Profumo is safe enough to wear just about any time during the colder months, because it isn’t as loud or in your face as some of the other colognes on the market. It’s well balanced and a total joy to wear.